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Rolex Submariner Date

Rolex Submariner Date vs no Date
Rolex Submariner date or not date? This is a question that has split opinions ever since a date and a no-date version became standard side-by-side Submariner duo in Rolex’s collection of watches.

We regularly see people who are looking to buy a Submariner, and ask for advice online on which they should choose: with or without a date? But it seems pointless to ask for advice because the answer is awfully close to 50/50 every time.

Now, there is no right or wrong when it comes to choosing a Submariner – only personalizes preference. However, there are pros and cons of both versions, so before you choose one or the other, read the pros and cons of the Rolex Submariner date vs no date.

To non-watch people, the debate between date and no date may seem insignificant and silly, but small changes make for huge differences for (probably) the most iconic and recognized watch model in the world.
Rolex Submariner date and no date Rolex Submariner background
First off, let’s just start by saying that Rolex does not officially have a watch that is called ”no date”. This is just what people have started calling Submariner without a date in order to distinguish them from the date versions.

In Rolex’s collection, there is Submariner and Submariner Date.
Before we dive into the pros and cons of the respective watch, let’s just briefly go over some history about the Submariner.

Development of the Submariner started in 1953 when a man by the name of René-Paul Jeanneret who came up with an idea for a diver’s watch. This man served on the Board of Directors Rolex. His idea was to make a sporty yet elegant everyday watch that would be waterproof. And apparently, Rolex liked the idea since development began in 1953. The following year, in 1954, the first Rolex Submariner was announced to the world: the reference 6204, debuting at the Basel watch fair. It has a 38mm Oyster case and offers a water resistance of 100m/300ft. A notable feature at the time was the rotating bezel that allows divers to keep track of elapsed time. The first submariner did not have a date function.

The Submariner became a huge success as it was a practical tool watch that made for a perfect all-rounder for any occasion. Since then, a lot have happened in the Submariner collection. Technology has been improved, materials updated, reliability increased, and styling refined.

In 1966, the Submariner reference 1680 made its debut. The 1680 is the first Submariner to feature a date window, complete with cyclops. The introduction of the first Submariner with date symbolized something interesting, which is that the Submariner was no longer just a tool for professional divers. It was also the watch of the likes of James Bond and everyday people. How is that so? Because of the simple fact that a professional diver has no reason to keep track of what date it is when diving deep down in the ocean.
Different versions of Submariner Date and no Date
There are not just one Submariner date and no date respectively. In fact, over the years, Rolex has released several different dates and no-dates.

The watches that most people tend to think about are the Submariner date reference 116610LN and the Submariner no date reference 114060, both with ceramic bezel and maxi case.

However, the previous generation with aluminum inserts also stand side-by-side as a date and no date version, reference 16610 and 14060. Both generations of references are identical to each other, apart from the fact that they have/do not have a date function.
Therefore, if you want to have an older and more traditional Submariner, you will perhaps opt for either the 14060 or the 16610.

Or, if you want a modern, robust, and sporty Submariner, you will opt for either the submariner 114060LN or 116610LN.
Submariner Date vs no Date: Pros and Cons
As mentioned there is no right and wrong answer to this question.

It all depends on what you require in a watch. There is no denying that the date is a practical function on the Submariner. Being able to have a glance at your watch and instantly know the date, rather than having to awkwardly pull up your phone can be really helpful in many situations.

At the same time, there are plenty of watches that do not have a date function, so if you do not have it on your other watches, you can reason in two ways:
Either you can say ”I don’t have a date on my other watches, so I am doing just fine without it”

Or you can say Because I don’t have the date function on my other watches, I want to get a watch that has this function”.

There are two main things that no date advocates highlight about the Submariner no date.

The first is symmetry.

The symmetry of the Submariner date is damaged due to the date window and the cyclops on the dial. Whilst the feature is practical, it does harm the symmetrical beauty. The Submariner no date ha a perfectly symmetrical dial that just is visually appealing to look at. Furthermore, the no date is cleaner, which gives the perception of a more widened the dial.

The other thing is originality. The first Submariner and a number of references after that did not have a date function. With that said, the date function and cyclops is a relatively modern idea. As such, the no-date version stays much truer to the original Submariner. Purists will naturally find the Submariner no date the better alternative, but in terms of practicality, it’s safe to say that it is not. By omitting the date function, the watch retains its lines and minimalist aesthetics. The Submariner is made for a specific purpose, so who needs to know the date when diving, anyway? It’s only that the closest most Submariners will ever come water is when the owner washes their hands.
The thing is that most people today who buy a Submariner will wear them as desk divers. They buy the Submariner because it is iconic, it has an interesting history, and because they like it aesthetically. But if you are only desk diving, the date function can certainly come in handy.

The look of the Submariner Date
There are also people who prefer the look of the Submariner with cyclops and date window. The most noticeable about the Submariner date is perhaps not the date window alone, but rather the cyclops that is glued on top of the crystal. The cyclops was introduced in 1966 to magnify the date aperture function two and a half times – a very clever feature to improve legibility.

The cyclops has today become an important element in many of Rolex’s models, not to mention the Datejust model. So unlike back in the days when the date cyclops was something very odd-looking, today many people associate it with Rolex.
Submariner Date vs no Date price difference
Have in mind that the there is a price difference between the date and no date Submariners

Naturally, because the date version has a date window, date wheel, as well as an upgraded movement to support the date function, it has a higher price.

So the question is, do you think it is worth to pay more to have the date or can you manage just fine without?

The 114060 vs The 116610LN
The ceramic date and no date Submariners stand side by side as rivals and make the choice for many people a tough one. If it would only be one, the choice would be much easier. But clearly, Rolex sees demand for both.
As mentioned, 116610LN and 114060 are more or less identical. They share the same 40mm Oyster case made from Oystersteel. A screw-down caseback and crown ensure water-resistance to 300m (1,000ft). Both have black dials with 18ct gold hour markers to prevent tarnishing. And both feature a unidirectional rotatable bezel with scratch-resistant Cerachrom insert in ceramic.

The difference, however, is that the date version has a cyclops glued to the crystal at 3 o’clock. Furthermore, the 3 o’clock marker on the dial has been removed in order to give room for the date window. Because of this difference, the two watches also have slightly different movements. The reference 114060 is powered by calibre 3130 which is a self-winding mechanical movement manufactured in-house by Rolex. It’s fitted with a Parachrom hairspring and is certified as a superlative chronometer. The Submariner Date, on the other hand, is equipped with calibre 3135. It has the same specifications as the calibre 3130, but has an added instantaneous date with rapid setting.

Conclusion
Regardless of your choice of a date or a no date, you can never go wrong with a classic such as the Submariner. It is iconic, legendary, and truly timeless in design.

With that said, symmetry is something our eyes find visually pleasing. So are you prepared to compare the symmetry of the Submariner in favor of a practical date window? Or would you rather premier function over symmetry?

Share with us your thoughts below! Rolex Submariner date or no date?

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Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is a mechanical chronograph wristwatch designed to meet the needs of racing drivers by measuring elapsed time and calculating average speed. Its name refers to Daytona, Florida, where racing flourished in the early 20th century. It has been manufactured by Rolex since 1963 in three distinct generations; the second series was introduced in 1988, and the third in 2000. While cosmetically similar, the second series introduced a self-winding movement, and the third series brought manufacture of the movement in-house to Rolex.
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, introduced in 1963, was designed to meet the demands of professional racing drivers. With its highly reliable chronograph and bezel with tachymetric scale, it allows drivers to perfectly measure average speeds up to 400 kilometers or miles per hour, as they choose. An icon eternally joined in name and function to the high‑performance world of motor sport.
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona was introduced in 1963 to meet the demands and precision of professional racing drivers. Soon after, it popularized and, throughout the ages, became a classic, thanks to wearers such as actor Paul Newman. Today, the Rolex Daytona watch remains in a class of its own and continues to be renowned worldwide.
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is a mechanical chronograph wristwatch designed to meet the needs of racing drivers by measuring elapsed time and calculating average speed. Its name refers to Daytona, Florida, where racing flourished in the early 20th century. It has been manufactured by Rolex since 1963 in three distinct generations (or series); the second series was introduced in 1988, and the third in 2000.
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona – a legendary racing watch. A statement, an investment, a legend – the Rolex Daytona offers more than just a time display. This watch gets its legendary title from the most famous motor racing circuit in the United States: Daytona. Over the last few decades, Daytona has managed to enthral people both on and off the racetrack.
Introduced in 1963, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona was designed for professional racing drivers. To meet the demands due to them, the Cosmograph Daytona was highly reliable with its chronograph and bezel with tachymetric scale.
Introduced in 1963, The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona was engineered to meet the essential demands of professional racing drivers, a reputable watch dedicated to the high-performance world of motor sport. Its notably reliable chronograph and bezel with tachymetric scale allows drivers to precisely measure speeds up to 400 kilometers or miles per hour.
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is a mechanical chronograph wristwatch designed to meet the needs of racing drivers by measuring elapsed time and calculating average speed. Its name refers to Daytona, Florida, where racing flourished in the early 20th century.It has been manufactured by Rolex since 1963 in three distinct generations (or series); the second series was introduced in 1988
Characterized by two chronograph pushers on the case, a tachymeter scale on the bezel and three registers on the dial, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is the world’s most coveted chronograph watch. Whether vintage, retro or modern, nearly any used Rolex Daytona for sale in the secondary market is highly valued thanks to its booming demand.
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, introduced in 1963, was designed to meet the demands of professional racing drivers. With its highly reliable chronograph and bezel with tachymetric scale, it allows drivers to perfectly measure average speeds up to 400 kilometres or miles per hour, as they choose.

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rolex explorer ii

The year 2020 was special (to say the least) and, with the cancellation of Baselworld, Rolex had to introduce its new models – including the new Submariner 41mm – later in September. This year, which will see Rolex participating in Watches & Wonders for the first time, the normal rhythm of launches will be back, meaning that we’ll see a new collection in April 2021. And this also means for us, at MONOCHROME, that we’ve had to go back to the drawing board for what has become a classic instalment: the predictions. Following what we presented last year, we’ll start our Rolex Predictions 2021 with what we think will be the highlight of the year, a brand new Rolex Explorer II 216570collection, updated with new mechanics and a brushed black ceramic bezel.
Guessing what Rolex will launch has become a ritual for us and we enjoy doing these predictions as much as we imagine you like discovering them. However, we also like to take this rather seriously and we put quite a lot of effort into researching what could potentially be launched by the crown. Seeing the latest introductions from Rolex, it isn’t always easy and, indeed, the brand can sometimes be unpredictable… or highly traditional. For instance, last year’s Submariner collection was long expected and the result was certainly very conservative. So, what have we imagined for these Rolex Predictions 2021? Well, first of all, we won’t release them all at once but we’ll gradually show you during the coming week several models that could be presented this year. And we start today with a major one: a new Rolex Explorer II 216570.
So, the big question: why a new Rolex Explorer II? The reason is pretty simple and two things can explain why we, at MONOCHROME, think 2021 will be the year of the Explorer. First of all, the original Rolex Explorer II, presented under the reference 1655, was introduced in 1971. This year, the model will celebrate its 50th anniversary and we know that Rolex, from time to time, likes to celebrate these jubilees and anniversaries to refresh a model.

The second reason is more strategic. Looking at the whole range of Rolex sports watches, you can see that most of them have been recently updated – Daytona in 2016, Sea-Dweller, Sky-Dweller and Yacht-Master II in 2017, GMT-Master II and DeepSea in 2018, Yacht-Master and GMT-Master II (again) in 2019, Submariner in 2020. This basically leaves two collections that haven’t been upgraded yet with the 32xx movements: the Milgauss and the Explorer (I and II). And this is also reflected in sales and desirability of these models, which are known to be less sought-after than most other sports watches at Rolex.
As such, we think it’s about time for the brand to breathe some fresh air into the Explorer collection, starting with the Explorer II. What there can be doubt about concerning this potential update will be the integration of a new movement. The current Explorer II 216570 features a GMT function and is powered by the Calibre 3187, an update of the Calibre 3186 found in the older GMT-Master II (mostly with a larger diameter, due to the different date position). In the same vein, this new Explorer II could be equipped with an update of the Calibre 3285 found in the latest generation GMT-Master II models. Once again, it would be slightly larger and could be named Calibre 3287. It will be equipped with the new Chronergy escapement and an extended power reserve of about 70 hours. This update will be indicated on the dial with the new “Swiss Made” logo with a central coronet.
But what about the design of the watch? For our Rolex Predictions 2021, we’ve imagined a relatively soft visual update. As such, the case would retain the current 42mm diameter, which separates this watch from the rest of the 40/41mm watches and adds an extra instrument feeling. The dial, still available in black or white, would also retain the same layout with bold hands and markers and, of course, the iconic orange dual-time hand. Rolex has proven to be quite shy regarding dials recently, with only minimal updates on the new Submariner or GMT-Master II. Also, the entirely brushed finishing of the case and bracelet would be retained.
What could be updated on this 2021 Rolex Explorer II 216570 is the bezel. Being the 50th anniversary of the model, we’d like the brand to bring back the layout of the Ref. 1655, with thinner engravings. This means even time zones with numerals and odd time zones indicated by thin lines. But the main evolution would concern the material, as this watch could come with a non-rotating black ceramic bezel. Yet, because the radially brushed surface of the bezel has been part of this model since 1971, it makes sense to offer brushed and not polished ceramic – the latter would make this model too close to a GMT-Master II, and too luxurious too.
The Rolex Explorer II, reference 216570, along with the Submariner, GMT Master, and the Datejust, constitute Rolex’s most popular watches. While the Explorer model, like the others, is a child of the late 1950s; unlike the others, it has two current models, both popular, but also quite different. The first model, the Rolex Explorer, is 39mm and is closest to the original version, while the Explorer II is 42mm and more adapted to modern tastes. In this post, I review the latter model. And while any of the Rolex Explorer models make for a solid tool watch, in this review, I am not taking it to some mountain trekking odyssey, but instead I am doing modern day exploration. My account is based on taking it for a month long journey to Asia, exploring a distant land, an ancient people, and a fascinating culture: China.
First off, the Rolex Explorer was one of the first wristwatches to be designed for exploration, in particular, exploring new lands and varied terrains. While today, a Casio ProTrek or similar solar-powered multifunction watch will serve you well on a distant trek, in the 1950s and early 1960s when real exploration of the poles and the high peaks of the world was taking place, no quartz watch existed. And even today, if you were to attempt to explore the earth’s pole or climb Mt. Everest, the Rolex Explorer might still be a better choice than a quartz device, since these suffer when exposed to high and low temperatures and depend on an external source of power. However, the Rolex Explorer II is guaranteed to work as well as it does day to day even under extreme temperature gradients and with no source of power, except wearing it daily and moving a bit (or winding the crown).
So while in my own “expedition” with the Rolex Explorer II, I was not taking it to extreme conditions, I did take it to what is a somewhat typical modern day traveling journey, including airports, business meetings, business outings, the gym, and also visiting the outdoors in a distant land. In all cases, what was great was the Rolex Explorer II never felt out of place.At the airport, the first step was to set the local and home time to PDT. As the plane took off and we got an indication of the time in Beijing, using the quick set feature on the hour hand, I simply pulled the crown and moved it forward about 8 timezones for the time in China. Interestingly, unlike many large countries, China has one timezone! It does not matter if you are in the east or western part of China, there is just one. Makes it easy for doing business, I suppose, though I imagine Chinese get a very different experience of time over the year depending on what side of the country they live on.A great thing about Rolex sports watches, especially modern versions, is that they tend to be multipurpose. That is, they fit well into both business and casual situations as well as the more sporty settings for which they were specifically designed. So during my month long visit, and with various meetings at all levels of the organization, I never had to use any other watch, really. The Rolex Explorer II fit in great.Its imposing 42mm all-brushed stainless steel case (water resistant to 100 meters) could be a minor issue if you needed to button up for a formal event, as it sits 12mm high on the wrist. However, that was never the case for me, and it fit great under all of my shirts, even when wearing a sports jacket in the cold grey late winter evenings of Beijing.Besides casual usages while visiting the vast city of Beijing, the occasion I had which most suited the Rolex Explorer II’s origin was when I took a half day trip to the Great Wall of China. First off, the Great Wall is nothing short of extraordinary, spanning miles and miles. The people of this great land constructed a 20-foot wide wall that serpentines the high mountains of northern China, helping separate it from centuries of Mongol invasions. It is commonly considered as one of the seven wonders of the world and for long the only man-made structure visible from outer space.Getting to the section of the Great Wall our visit meant taking a roller coaster-like small car that took us hundreds of feet into the mountain and into the Wall proper. Of course, once there, comes the fun part. Depending on your fitness level and the time before dawn, you can easily walk and climb this amazing structure for miles and miles. I challenged myself to at least get to four towers, which round trip would be about a hilly 10k. Heck, I had just completed a full Ironman less than a year ago, how bad could this be?Of course, the Rolex Explorer II was never the issue during my Wall trek, but rather my knees and my feet walking and climbing this amazing structure. Of course, I was also carrying my DSLR camera and made sure to stop, take a breathe, and take some pictures of the vast landscape. The weather was clear, so the view went on for miles. The white face of the Rolex Explorer II was never out of place. And I was very happy to use the 5mm easy link extension to relieve my wrist after a hard day hiking under the sun.
Like many of the modern Rolex sports watches, the Rolex Explorer II 216570 comes with the modern Oyster bracelet fully brushed (just like the Submariner), and it is just plain comfortable and screams high quality. The Rolex bracelets are, just like any genuinely well engineered bracelet, adjustable with screws where one can remove full links or half links. Also, the bracelet tapers from 21mm at the lugs to 17mm at the oyster clasp, thereby resulting in a highly wearable 42mm watch. The clasp includes the protective Rolex Oyster lock, but unlike the Submariner, there are no quick adjustments except for the 5mm oyster link which I mentioned makes it easy to extend or reduce the bracelet by 5mm during the day as your wrist expands and contracts.The Rolex Explorer II comes fitted with the Rolex 3187 caliber which I found to be super accurate (as it is COSC chronometer certified, like all Rolex calibers) and easy to use. It also contains Rolex’s Paraflex system which helps improve the watch’s resistance to shocks, as well as the brand’s Parachrom anti-magnetic hairspring so as to render the movement more resistant to magnetic fields. The quick hour adjust works like a charm, and the date can be advanced forward using this feature. The large orange GMT hand is easily visible and points brilliantly to the black 24-hour markers on the bezel.The Rolex “Mercedes” hour hand (originally designed to appear totally different to the minute hand for easy legibility) and the minutes hand are larger, bolder than their counterparts on the Submariner or GMT Master II. Also, here they are outlined in black paint and filled with blue Chromalight, whereas on other Rolex models, they tend to be done in 18k white gold. The look is pretty unique to the Rolex Explorer II in Rolex’s line up and has acquired the moniker of “maxi-hands” from collectors. The rest of the dial is in the iconic white “polar” color with cardinal markers and hour markers (round), also with a black painted outline, completing the unique – and uniquely legible – maxi-dial.While clearly remaining a Rolex with the classic oyster case, the cyclops on the crystal, and the famous Rolex dial, this model is less common than the Submariner and GMT Master II, easily making it the more interesting Rolex if you want a solid sports watch from the famous brand – and hence it is one that you will more rarely see anyone else wearing during the day. As a matter of fact, during my entire time traveling to China, I only spotted one other person wearing a Rolex Explorer II (black dial), though I spotted countless other Rolex sports watches.

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Rolex GMT-Master II Watch

The 18 ct Everose gold and Everose Rolesor versions of the GMT-Master II introduced in 2018 both feature a bezel with a Cerachrom insert in a black and brown ceramic. On the dial of each watch, the name “GMT-Master II” is inscribed in powdered rose, a first for the range.
ROLEX GMT-MASTER II Designed to show the time in two different time zones simultaneously, the GMT-Master, launched in 1955, was originally developed as a navigation instrument for professionals crisscrossing the globe. Heir to the original model, the GMT-Master II was unveiled in 1982, with a new movement ensuring ease of use.
This combination first debuted in the 1960s on the original GMT Master, Later, Rolex retired it when the GMT Master II launched in 1983. After a 35-year hiatus, the brand finally re-introduced the beloved “Root Beer” option at Baselworld in 2018. In addition, Rolex also offers the GMT Master II with a more classic, sold black bezel.
When Concorde, the first supersonic passenger airliner, performed its final test flights in the 1960s, Rolex proudly announced that both the British and French test pilots wore GMT-Master watches, cementing the status of the GMT-Master in an era of supersonic flight.
GMT-Master II Synonymous with excellence and reliability, Rolex watches are designed for everyday wear, and depending on the model, perfectly suited for a wide range of sports and other activities.
Popular Used Rolex GMT Master II Watches The GMT Master II evolved from Rolex’s original GMT Master, which they developed in collaboration with Pan Am in 1954.
Originally designed in collaboration with Pan Am Airlines, Rolex introduced the first GMT-Master watch for pilots to simultaneously track two time zones. By the 1980s, the collection had evolved into the GMT-Master II and gained the ability to track a third time zone. 2020 update: suggested retail prices start at $9,700 and increase depending on the metal used. Click here to view our entire selection of pre-owned Rolex watches for sale.
The first Rolex GMT watch was designed in partnership with Pan American Airways and was given to all their crew on long distance flights. This watch had a 24-hour display fourth hand whose purpose was to allow the crew to set their watch to their current time zone and then rotate the bezel so an alternative time zone could also be displayed. They named it the GMT Master, the first of its kind.

To improve upon yet another innovative Rolex watch, the company launched the second generation Rolex GMT Master II in the early 1980s. This introduction was not intended to replace the original design, which Rolex continued to produce into the late 1990s.

Although the Rolex GMT Master II was visually similar to the original GMT Master, it had an additional movement that was capable of adjusting a quickset hour hand that could be set to local time while not disrupting any of the other times displayed. This meant that in conjunction with its rotatable bezel, it could now calculate a third time zone.

The Rolex GMT Master II replica was updated in 2005 with many new changes: technically, it featured the new Rolex Parachrom hairspring and a Triplock crown. Other changes included ornamental ones – the case increased in size, it displayed larger hands, and the bezel was now made of 904L steel, designed to protect it against corrosion and damage.
The Rolex GMT Master II ref. 16710, first introduced in 1989, is estimated to be worth upwards of $5,400. It comes in stainless steel, with the iconic 24-hour ceramic bezel and oyster bracelet. Depending on the condition of the watch, the price could reach even higher.Factors that influence the value of the Rolex GMT are the quick sets and bezel material. A watch with the 18k yellow gold bezel and quick set complication bumps up the price for these time pieces to a level around $6,800 and up.

This is also evident when considering that the Rolex GMT Master II ref. 16718 in 18K yellow gold and featuring an independently-adjustable hand, and Oyster bracelet, which can fetch up to $10,500.
The Rolex GMT Master II 116710BLNR, better known as Rolex GMT Batman was unveiled in 2013 in Baselworld, and is immediately recognized by its black and blue bi-color ceramic bezel.The older Rolex GMT models had aluminum inserts found in the bezel, which were easily printable. However, ceramic is a much harder material, and Rolex said that it was impossible to make a bi-color bezel in ceramic.

Bi-colored ceramic bezels are made of one ceramic piece and the process of making them two-toned is vastly complicated. However, following a chemical process that turns the originally green-colored ceramic to two colors, like black and blue, was a win for Rolex.

Needless to say, the GMT Batman was the highlight of the 2013 show.

The 116710BLNR has been extremely successful and in high demand since its introduction, so much so that the resale value of the GMT Batman is extremely close to its retail price. Looking to determine the value could lead to a wide variety of figures from different dealers, but you could expect this Rolex GMT’s price to be around $8,950.
Not long after the GMT Batman’s spectacular unveiling, in 2014 Rolex initiated the revival of the original 1955 bezel in its reference 116719BLRO: The Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi.”
Before the ceramic GMT Pepsi, Rolex launched updated GMT Master II watches that retained the blue and red tones for the bezel but decided in 2007 to stop producing them. Not too long after this, they had all the GMT Master II watches moved to Cerachrom ceramic bezels. This makes the GMT Batman the first ever to have a blue and black ceramic bezel; and GMT Pepsi, the first ever to have red ceramic available and featured commercially in a time piece.

The ceramic inserts themselves are far superior to the original aluminum inserts in both price and in quality: the colors on the newer ceramic bezels will never fade and the scratch resistance of the ceramic ensures that the bezel will always look brand-new.

This GMT Pepsi 2014 model is currently available for $41,000.

This model is also heavier than the older GMT Master II, despite the fact that its overall size has remained the same at 40mm. In comparison to the older GMT Master, the Rolex GMT Pepsi’s bezel now clicks, which makes it even simpler to mark time in the three different time zones. The updated version has a new Oysterlink clasp, which feels more durable and solid.

Overall, when compared, the new Rolex GMT Master II is a superior watch in many aspects: the ceramic bezel, the lining up of the rotation on every hour, the high-quality clasps and bracelets, and the new white gold option. Nonetheless, the original GMT Master II ref. 16760 is rich with history and has a story that carries just as much value.

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MB& F Legacy Machine LMX Replica

Though MB&F Legacy Machine LMX was founded on the premise of avant-grade expressions of the watch case with its Horological Machines, the brand has an equally successful, and far more traditional, collection of watches with conventional round cases, the Legacy Machines (LM).

It’s hard to believe, but the MB&F Legacy Machine LMX collection is a decade old now (and MB&F itself is almost 16 years old). For the LM’s 10th anniversary, MB&F has created ultimate version of the LM1, the watch that launched the series.

Short for Legacy Machine X – with the final letter being a Roman “10” – the LMX incorporates diverse elements from the past decade’s watches as well as several new ideas, resulting in a familiar but all-new “machine”. So it has the familiar twin sub-dials for two time zones, but now inclined. Likewise, the LMX features a vertical power reserve indicator, but now made more elaborate with a spherical display. And all of that is contained within a thinner case that’s similar to that first seen on the LM Thunderdome triple-axis tourbillon.
Compared to the original LM1, the MB&F Legacy Machine LMX is indeed heavily upgraded inside and out, with a sleeker styling that includes a more three-dimensional dial, as well as a newly-developed, triple-barrel movement with weeklong power reserve. By most measures, the LMX is an excellent evolution of the original LM idea – and an impressive watch in its own right – but it does feel less adventurous than it should be for a milestone project.
Several details of the LMX are striking. As the twin dials are inclined towards the wearer, more of the mechanics on the dial are revealed – illustrating how MB&F excels at creating a dynamic mechanical architecture that’s also cleanly styled. Add to that several steel bridges that are symmetrical and finely finished, and there’s a lot to admire on the dial.

One of the most intriguing elements of the dial is the hemispherical power reserve, which doubles up as a day-of-the-week display. But it is small enough that it’s hard to read, and also a bit of a hassle: indicating the day means having to wind the watch on a specific day in order to coordinate the indicator with the calendar.
The hemispherical power reserve indicator is two sided, showing both the day of the week or days of power reserve remaining, and can be rotated according to the wearer’s preference

The LMX, however, is similar in size to the LM1, which means more complicated mechanics within a similar space. That achievement is notable, and enhanced by the perceived slimness of the watch. Because its case band is narrow – the majority of its height is the huge crystal – the LMX feels surprisingly thin.

All the improvements comes at a slightly steeper price than the original, starting at US$112,000 for the titanium LMX, rising to US$128,000 for the pink gold version. That said, factoring in inflation and the additional features, it’s a fair increase.
Though functionally similar to the LM1, the LMX is quite literally a decade more advanced. It’s powered by a novel movement that’s been designed to reveal more mechanics on the dial, while having a much longer power reserve and preserving the dimensions of the case.
To start, the dial side is designed to showcase its finishing, one of the focal points of the LM series, which are inspired by classical, 19th century watchmaking.

Perhaps the most compelling bit of the construction are the steel bridges – all wonderfully finished. Take for instance the pair of steel bridges behind each of the twin dials, which despite being smallish, manage to be highly polished and rounded on its top surface with straight grained flanks, and set with a bowl-shaped gold chaton.
And on the back, the layout is unusual too. Instead of a having the bridges styled like a pocket watch as is tradition with the LM series, the movement architecture is decidedly modern.
It has three barrels surrounding a central ratchet wheel that incorporates an unusual, blued three-armed click spring, resulting in a long, seven-day power reserve, a huge increase from the 45 hours of the LM1.

The fact that the movement is far more advanced than that of the LM1, while retaining the 44 mm diameter as the LM1, testifies to the smartness of its construction.

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Ulysse Nardin Tourbillon Free Wheel

That’s right, this is an actual review of the Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel, this very latest $99,000 halo-piece from La Chaux-de-Fonds. First things first, I have to say, kudos to Ulysse Nardin for being good sports and sending their latest tourbillon out for a review after I was rather critical about its presentation in the news article where we debuted this piece a couple weeks back. It was Stéphane, the Head of Research and Innovation at Ulysse Nardin who commented below the article to explain a few important details that were missing from the original press release and I did really appreciate that. Without further ado, let’s cut to the chase.
As is the case for any halo watch, there are two main and very different aspects to the appreciation of such a top-shelf exercise in fine watchmaking. First, there is the strictly technical aspect, where we lift the watch close to the loupe in front of our eyes or we crop deep into the macro photographs, all in an effort to understand and to appreciate the creative effort and engineering work that has gone into its creation. Second, there is the actual, real-world experience, when such a watch gets taken out into the real world, full of… well, everything. Exciting is the word I’m looking for because at this point the watch is no longer up close to our face, but down on our wrist and all we can do is catch glimpses of it as it performs its essential function: keeping and telling time. This real-world take is a completely different and indeed very special experience. I am at odds with which element to start, but I figure it’s best to gain an appreciation of its fine details and bold engineering first and with that in mind, learn what it was like to wear such a watch for weeks on end out and about in a metropolitan world.
At 44mm wide, the Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel is a wide watch that compensates for its substantial diameter with an impressively thin profile. Irrespective of all that’s going on, the Free Wheel is a thin watch by the standards of any watch, not just comparably complicated ones. The case-back is slightly “bubbled” and the lugs are angled downwards steeply, so rather than a pointless exact measurement of thickness I’ll say that it feels, looks, and wears a little thinner than a Rolex Submariner on the wrist. It is wider and longer though. The case comes with the brand’s trademark triple lug design and while those could normally steal the show as far as exterior elements are concerned, the real showstopper here is the sapphire “cap” that pans across the top of the watch and reaches all the way down into an extremely thin, 18ct white gold case profile. It’s like a wrist-vivarium with a selection of highly exotic things kept safely and exhibited proudly within. It creates an airy look and feel, keeping the physical and aesthetic weight of the watch at an absolute minimum.
The massive sapphire front and side element also let a lot of light into the case and onto the many different components that appear to be sparkling with joy now that they are not hidden underneath a dial or a funky arrangement of plates and bridges. Thankfully, the sapphire piece appears to be amply AR-coated and so – despite its noticeably domed front – all components are easy to appreciate from afar or up close, without the annoying hindrance of excessive reflections.
A fun part of the watch is how you can see (on the image below) the white gold case glued to the sapphire cap from the inside. It sort of reminds me of how diamonds are held secure by their gold settings. The two lugs on the side are fully polished, including the heads of the screws that appear to hold the strap secure, while the center portions of the lug structures are vertically brushed. The crown exhibits comparable complexity with its brushed and polished parts. It often happens, and this piece is no different: on such a complicated watch, where there is so much going on to draw one’s eyes, certain components such as the case or crown often get overlooked. Even if, upon a closer look, one would rightly shiver at the thought of machining and engraving a piece as complex as that crown on its own. Not to mention the polish that is to be applied between the flanks and the brushed surface treatment on the higher parts. Even the aforementioned screws in the lugs have beveled and polished outer edges; these aren’t just some screws that came in by the hundreds from a supplier. No, these appear to have been finished to the same standards as much smaller screws are inside properly high-end movements. Apparently, placing such feats well on show really is the theme of this watch, down to such details. They really didn’t hold back on anything and while that sounds absolutely normal and expectable, it is not always the case.
All these, however, pale in significance when compared to the dial and its many shiny, contrasting, mind-tingling components. This is where the Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel really stands out. A lot of it appears self-explanatory upon first sight – but it’s one of those things where the more you know, the more you can appreciate how much you actually don’t understand. As far as indications go, you get hours and minutes in the middle, indicated by two very large and very bold hands that have never ever failed to stand out against the dial – other issues I did experience with legibility, but more on that later. You also get a one-minute tourbillon at the 6 o’clock position of the dial; this doesn’t hack so you can’t really use it as a seconds indicator all that much, but it’s still there to give you a rough idea if you really want to time something within a minute. Last, but definitely not least, there is a power reserve indicator at the 4 o’clock position of the dial that, just like the tourbillon, is standing there all on its own, without any apparent connection to any moving parts whatsoever.
This latter feature, the fact these parts stand free, adds tremendously to the overall look and impression of these components, as well the entire watch itself. We have seen countless flying tourbillons and yet more power reserve indicators, but for them to be just sticking out of a dial like that shows them in a completely new light. The tourbillon includes Ulysse Nardin’s lubrication-free silicon affair for the escapement assembly – namely the escapement wheel, pallet fork, and its spider web-like structure. Take a look at how this cool tourbillon works with the video below.
To better understand the Free Wheel concept, let me quote Stéphane von Gunten, Head of Research & Innovation at Ulysse Nardin who kindly chimed in on the comments under my news article with an explanation that could only ever come from a modern watchmaker:

“The gear train on the left of the watch, between 8 and 10 o’clock, is a so-called “differential” and “demultiplifier” gear system. It is used to read the rotational information from and between (in and out) the two [mainspring] barrels and to reduce the speed in order to generate the correct rotational angle towards the power reserve indicator. The power reserve indicator is thus situated at 4 o’clock and is actuated by a double rake element underneath the dial, close to the Tourbillon area. All this gear train [the one on the left side of the dial] is composed of three levels of double planetary pinions, allowing to convert the 40 turns of the barrel-stack to the 270 degrees power reserve indication. Like the energy transfer that comes from the barrels to the Tourbillon, underneath the dial, this marvelous movement is kind of a tribute to “Mysterious Clocks.” It is the basic concept behind all of that. Showing the “best” elements of the movement – barrels, demultiplifier gear train, power reserve indicator and the Tourbillon with our Ulysse Anchor constant force escapement – is a super mix between the technics and the aesthetics of this high-end watch.”
Here is a closer look at the left-hand side component group that Stéphane referred to in his comment. This is the differential and demultiplifier, the three-level component group that essentially is a mechanical device that divides 40 into 0.75. That is forty turns on the mainspring barrels into 3/4 of a turn of the power reserve indicator. Better still – and I did need a loupe and proper macro photography to determine this – all the components are exquisitely finished. I almost (almost!) got tricked into thinking that there really wasn’t that much to be seen here, and unless you have truly excellent near-sight, that is more or less true. But take a high-quality loupe or some macro shots and boy, will your experience change dramatically. I cannot really describe how thin the bevelled edges are on the arms of these wheels, or how even the mirror polish is on their top surfaces – but it really is top-tier work, simply performed on a scale that is all the more smaller than what we see on plates and bridges and larger wheels. The top of the boomerang-shaped bridge has a frosted finish but its edges are nevertheless polished – with the dark screws and shiny surfaces nearby, this creates an unquestionably high-end look.
Understandably not completely free from distortions, the side view the sapphire cap of the watch provides is really very cool too. The three-dimensionality of high-end watches is frequently under-appreciated or, worse still ignored entirely. Here you at least get a somewhat better understanding of what’s going on and how much of a (very enjoyable) challenge it must have been for the Ulysse Nardin team to engineer these beautifully finished wheels onto and into one another. Top-tier work both in complexity and refinement, the sort of stuff that, I think, we will never ever see trickle down into more affordable price segments – it will always be reserved for the mid-five figures and up. Because unlike many other previously high-end and novel solutions, like forged carbon cases or extra-long power reserves and whatnot that we did see make their way into genuinely affordable price tiers, this combination of complexity and refinement does not bode well with the concept of the scale of economics. Not a complaint, just an observation.
The dial has an interesting gazillion-hole pattern to it – if you have trypophobia, you will probably not want to look at it with a loupe too long. Frankly, this pattern I could take it or leave it. It doesn’t move me in any way, other than that I can appreciate the challenge of finding a texture that works well with the rest of the design, without paling in its looks or overpowering the overall aesthetic of the watch. The rose gold version of the Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel has a solid dial with a slate or earth-like texture to it that I prefer to this one, but that really is just down to personal preference.
The hands, as I had already mentioned, are insanely large. They even have a bit of black lume in the center. As lume, it is absolutely worthless unless you go from the brightest summer noon outdoors into the darkest room possible, but they do a great job at making the hands stand out against the super busy backdrop of black and white, shiny and matte surfaces that we see scattered all across the face of the Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. The sheer size of the hands also tells me that this is a strong movement, capable of moving these beasts around all day.

Speaking of the movement, the Ulysse Nardin UN-176 caliber was designed in-house, according to the manufacture. It features a 170-hour power reserve and runs at 18,000 vph, a slow beat so you can really see that tourbillon breathe. Let’s see what little there is to be seen on the case-back side of it.
The case-back, as I mentioned above, is slightly, but noticeably domed outwards, towards the wrist. Its massive sapphire crystal has a smooth surface and it merges with the white gold frame seamlessly. Funnily enough, while the original launch document referenced this as a place where there was “nothing to see,” this side of the Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel actually is pretty exciting too! You’ll find some absolutely massive jewels that will give you a rough idea on the layout of some of the parts hidden on the dial side. I especially liked the little, rounded cut-outs where, at the 6 o’clock position, I could see a small and large wheel merging – this is where the tourbillon gets its drive and you’ll see a closer look on the image just below. On the upper half of the case-back, visible through similar cut-outs, I could see part of the winding mechanism revealed.
The texture of the large plate covering all of the back of the watch and hence filling the entire case-back is like miniaturized concrete. In harsh light like directly above it really shows its dense and gritty texture, while in softer light (as on the image further above) it looks soft and easy on the eyes. An obscure detail is the tiny “Ulysse Nardin Certified,” something that becomes all the more confusing once you look at its logo with a lonely pine tree standing in a field with a bright star above it. I have no idea of its meaning today and I doubt it will be any easier to figure out a hundred years from now – when we’ll be all gone but this watch will still be around, dazzling and amazing people that mechanical watchmaking was this awesome in the early 2000s. That, I think, is pretty cool. And unintelligible details like this little countryside scenery will make these watches that much more charming in the eyes of future-dwellers.
Nearly 3,000 words into it and finally we have arrived at this point… I did mean to pay my dues and explain the technical details of this watch before I told you how it actually feels on the wrist… But wow, there was even more to say than I had anticipated. Anyhow, in short, it is both more exciting and, in a few ways, more restrained than I had anticipated. I had the privilege and good fortune to wear this incredible piece for a number of weeks out and about, running errands and so on… And it is at times like these when one gets to discover what a watch really looks and feels like.
The laser sharp, hard-lit macro photography that I had used for most of this article was to show the extremely fine and minute details in a crisper way, hopefully making them easier to appreciate. In the real world though, on the wrist, the watch appears a lot more “velvety,” a lot like how it looks on the image above. There is a good separation between the different dial components. The glass looks crystal clear, appearing with just a tiny bit of presence as it encapsulates the precious-looking components underneath. The case is beautifully made, with soft-polished lugs and barely noticeable brushed surfaces. The dial – with its holes – is prominent and one does get hung up on it from time to time, but it hardly ever does steal the show.At times I’d go so far as to say that the Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel looks a lot like a normal watch. Like on the image above. At this time none of the polished edges reflect light sharply. The sapphire cap cannot really be perceived, the silicon parts in the tourbillon do not show up in bright purple and blue, and the overall layout looks pretty straightforward, really – strictly by the standards of this watch and how it can appear at other times.
Flick your wrist a tiny little bit though and the whole thing comes alive. Suddenly there’s immense depth, different parts of the components shimmer with light at the tiniest movement and the whole thing starts to look as expensive as it actually is. Over the weeks I could really appreciate this transformation, especially since knowing when and how it happens (depending on a million things such as amount, type and temperature of light, the reflection of the world around me at the time (open skies, indoors, whatever), the distance at which I am looking at the watch, and the amount of time I am looking at it. And sure, similar things happen with a regular luxury watch if it’s made well enough… But the scale and quantity of these transformations and exquisite details so neatly exposed is what propels the Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel into haute horlogerie territory. Where your money goes in this instance is the absolute overkill in the number of neat details (think of the bevelled edges on the tiny wheels, the unique surface treatments, the massive sapphire cap, the neatly detailed white gold case and so on). Sure, there are more shouty luxury watches at this near-6-figure segment in terms of sheer visual complexity – you can get literally a dozen different indications on a dial if you really insist – but don’t forget that the point of this watch is the Free Wheel concept, where part of the fun is how part of the components have been hidden away.
When I look at this watch, I see an aquarium – for total nerds, I’ll say that it’s actually a terrarium, for it has no water in it – a glass display that safeguards and, at the same time, exhibits a selection of naturally beautiful things. I feel as though I could easily open up the case and fiddle with these very numerable parts, but I shiver right after entertaining that thought for I know I’d cause irreparable damage to those tiny little organisms. There is, I find, a rare, organic beauty to this watch. Some things are beautifully and proudly displayed, others work mysteriously in the background, hidden away from the human eye and mind alike.
The only thing to be aware of is that this is an expensive watch of which everyone can tell is expensive – even from afar. At times that’s what people buying these watches want, but some other times discretion is what matters. It would be idiotic to mention this aspect as a downside of the Tourbillon Free Wheel; anyone who buys an open-dial watch and moans that it isn’t discrete enough clearly loves to make unreasonable expectations. I guess what I am trying to say is that while I do very much enjoy all the brilliant details of the Free Wheel, I at times wished it was only me who could see them… And look at them for more than 10-20 seconds while out in the wild without looking like a total schmuck that’s eyeing his expensive-looking watch for a long time. Discretion, then, is not a strong point of the Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel and while normally I wouldn’t even think of mentioning this element on a watch of this style and caliber, I do so here because once you appreciate the elegance of the layout and design, you won’t see this as an attention-grabbing effort in ultra-luxury, but rather as a labor of love put on display.
To return to some more realistic expectations, I do wish that the Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel came in a smaller case. I wish that partly because I have narrow wrists and partly because I look at that black, feature-less band around the dial and think to myself: “that is exactly how much narrower I wish it was!” With a thickness of just over 13mm, having this come in at 42mm would not have been outrageous at all. Maybe the sapphire cap is the reason for this extension – if you scroll up, you’ll see how it isn’t a perfect box-shape but rather a dome that slopes downwards at its edges. That said, it will wear and look really good on those fortunate owners with a somewhat thicker wrist than my 17.5 cm (6.75in) thick wrist; but even so, I wish this outer ring had a minute track on it. Strangely, I had no trouble reading the time with the accuracy required by the sort of person who routinely buys watches priced at or above $99,000, but I felt I needed some point of reference when I was setting the time on the watch.
A wish, if I could have one, is this. I would absolutely love to see this dial and movement in a more ordinary case with a regular sapphire front, coming in at 42mm wide and with regular lugs. This dial with all these features looking back at me from a more wearable sized and classically styled watch that came in at a price point closer to Ulysse Nardin’s other tourbillons (closer to $50k rather than $100k) I think would do incredibly well. Now that I have gotten to look at and appreciate the many truly beautiful details that have been hidden all along in the components so prominently displayed on the face of this watch, I have really grown to appreciate the Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel on another level. The layout is the lasting sort of fun, and so is interacting with the watch and seeing the keyless works turn and the truly flying tourbillon rotate on its own.

I am absolutely sure that those who get one of these will end up wearing it a lot because it is a lastingly entertaining watch to wear with countless details to appreciate. It is a piece of modern watchmaking with so much of what UN knows thrown at it: super long power reserve, fancy, ultra-modern silicon escapement, flying tourbillon, sapphire, and white gold case, completely unique movement design and so on… And all that is packaged in a way that I’m sure will resonate with some – and will not with others. In short, I hope to see more iterations of this face, especially one in a more toned-down package at a competitive price.
Why would anyone buy the Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel? I think the reason is basically exactly the same as why one would support an unknown (but otherwise really quite great) painter: out of appreciation and a personal resonance with the art itself. There are six-figure watches that you can own and sell for the same amount as you paid for it – select Richard Mille and factory-set Rolexes spring to mind along with a few obscure models that have a total fan base of 10 collectors when only 8 were made. But you don’t need to shop around for long to realize how some of the watch snob-favored references take a hit in value all the same when the game of musical chairs ends. What I’m trying to say is that this watch will make a couple dozen collectors happy in the world who tried it on and interacted with it and have consequently fallen in love with it. Despite the tremendous amount of money that it costs and the fact that it has a lot of work put into it, this will be a purchase made with the heart first and the mind second – not the other way around. And that’s all good because the mind will ultimately find a lot to enjoy.
What I think it takes for the Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel to be successful is to get it into the hands of enough prospective buyers, let them view its fine details, comprehend its novel functioning and, perhaps most importantly, interact with it. Once enough of them sees the face of the watch come to life at the turn of the crown and appreciates the novel network of exotic parts, the Free Wheel will see no trouble finding its customers. The Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel

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Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur 42

Ulysse Nardin‘s history and identity is deeply intertwined with that of the marine chronometer, and in a year underpinned by a return to vintage pieces for design inspiration, the brand has tapped into this history and recently launched the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur, which it calls a chronometer for the modern era (though based on old pocket watch designs). While it may be inspired by vintage marine chronometers, the Marine Torpilleur is a more modern and less formal alternative to the brand’s existing Marine Chronometer watches.
Torpilleur is the French term for a destroyer, which is a small, agile warship. Its use is meant to be a sign that this is a lighter, thinner version, which strictly speaking, is accurate. The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur comes in a 42mm case as opposed to the 43mm of the Marine Chronometer – which is really a “splitting-hairs” level of difference. The real distinction is in the movement and complications. Unlike the Marine Chronometer watches which are powered by the Calibre UN-113 with annual calendar complication, the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur is powered by the automatic Calibre UN-118 which offers time, date, and power reserve functions, but no annual calendar.
The UN-118 was an important milestone for Ulysse Nardin as it was developed in-house with a unique material for the escapement – DIAMonSIL. A combination of silicon and man-made diamond, the use of DIAMonSIL eliminated the need for lubrication of the escapement. In theory, this should help keep rate keeping stable for a much longer duration. The logic is that over time, the viscosity of a traditional lubricant increases and the amount of friction with it – with DIAMonSIL this is no longer an issue. The primary motivation behind the development of the UN-118 was to reduce reliance on ETA ébauches, but the technical chops that Ulysse Nardin made available at this price point were definitely a welcome bonus as well.

In addition, the UN-118 features a silicon hairspring and offers 60 hours of power reserve. Given the ‘Chronometer’ in the name, the watch comes with COSC certification and the brand’s own Ulysse Nardin Performance Certificate. We are told that the movement is decorated and visible through a sapphire crystal case back, but unfortunately, no images were supplied, so it’s hard to comment on what finishing will look like.
As I mentioned earlier, the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur is housed in a 42mm case which is available in stainless steel or 18k rose gold and, unlike its bigger sibling, has more conventional lugs and no crown guard. The lugs are short and curve downwards quite significantly, which should help the watch sit comfortably on most wrists. An interesting design feature of the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur is the bezel’s coin-like edge that is reminiscent of rotating bezels with textures for better grip. However this is a thin, fixed bezel, so the finish is only to add visual interest and is not functional. Given the capabilities of modern watchmaking techniques, the marine association of the watch and the presence of a screw-down crown, the watch offers a disappointing 50m of water resistance. This may seem like a small detail, but I feel like they should’ve offered 100m.
The dial is offered in two variants, a blue and a white. The rose gold version is only offered with a white dial, while the stainless steel is offered with both. The overall aesthetic of the dial is very similar to vintage marine chronometers, with Roman numerals painted very legibly and elegantly, a second sub-dial at 6 o’clock, and power reserve at 12 o’clock. The date window at 6 o’clock is a modern addition, of course, but well incorporated into a fairly busy dial. The “1846” painted in red is a reference to the brand’s year of founding and nicely aids visual balance on the dial. The spade-shaped hands are in keeping with the vintage theme and are heat-blued for the white dial and polished for the blue.
For a vintage-inspired timepiece, the Replica Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur is refined, well-designed, and yet, contemporary enough to make for a daily wear piece. The highlight of the watch, in my opinion, is the movement which offers quite a bit of value in terms of horological pedigree. The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur is available at retailers and boutiques

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rolex milgauss 116400gv

As a research scientist with a passion for fine timepieces, I have always been on the lookout for the watch that would best match my work and life passions. If you also fit that category, then look no further than the Rolex Milgauss 116400gv, and especially the unique anniversary edition reference 116400GV (“glass verte”) with the green sapphire glass. It is a watch with a unique history that stands out from an all too common Rolex lineup and that was designed for scientists… Let’s explore why that is.

While I will not give you a full history of the Rolex Milgauss, I want to brush on the important highlights. The Rolex web site and various blog posts do a thorough job of documenting the history, in particular this post is one of the better ones I have found on its history.
In a nutshell, the Rolex Milgauss was introduced in the late 50’s when electricity, electronics, aeronautics, and nuclear engineering was bringing about what we now call the technology and information revolution. As a species, we had just discovered the power of the atom, we were finally in a position to leave mother earth (albeit for short periods of time), and the amount of innovations around transmitting, storing, and transforming information, created a series of revolutions that would forever change mankind.

As a consequence of this flood of innovation, scientists (and generally everyone) were increasingly being exposed to magnetic fields. Not only from the instruments used but also from everyday appliances such as TV sets, radios, and the many new electrified appliances that were making their way into households. You don’t need to know Maxwell’s equations to know that an electrical current and a magnetic field are two sides of the same “coin” and that one can easily be converted into the other. The German mathematician and physicist Carl Friedrich Gauss was one of the first to explore this space and thus, in his honor, the measure of magnetic flux density is a Gauss. Today, other measurements like the Tesla and ampere/meter (1000G = 0.1T = 80,000A/m) are more commonly used.
Of course, the result of being exposed to so much accidental or intentional magnetic fields is that anything you have on you that is sensitive to such fields will be affected. You also don’t need to know much about the inner workings of a mechanical watch to realize that a magnetic field is one of its sworn enemies. Briefly, mechanical watches (even the best ones) use a balance wheel containing a hairspring that is used to regulate the movement, it’s the watch’s heartbeat, if you may. Mess with the hairspring or balance wheel and you will end up with a watch that runs too fast or too slow… Therefore, in situations where the watch is exposed to a magnetic field, components of the watch can be magnetized and thus be disrupted.

It is in this context that various manufacturers started exploring how to achieve watches that could resist such fields. IWC was the first to release a widely available watch resistant to magnetic fields with its aptly named Ingénieur model. Not to be outdone, in that same time-frame, Rolex also released its own magnetic-resistant watch: the Rolex Milgauss (from the French “mille” and Gauss, thus resistant to 1000 Gauss). James Stacey recently covered a set of newly announced Ingénieur pieces by IWC, to be released in 2013: the year of the Ingénieur for IWC.
The basic innovation in both the Rolex Milgauss and the IWC Ingénieur and other such watches is the use of a Faraday cage that encloses the movement. Similar to how being inside an airplane protects you from the effects of lightning, a Faraday cage (ferromagnetic enclosure) around the movement will divert a current or magnetic field and shield and protect the entire movement, including the balance wheel and its hairspring. While being a great innovative step in watchmaking, there is much more to the new Rolex Milgauss than simply a Faraday cage.

The Rolex Milgauss, like all of Rolex’s sports lineup, is based on their famous and ubiquitous oyster perpetual case. This is the same case design used in the Submariner or in the Explorer models, however, the Rolex Milgauss is done in a polished 904L steel with a polished smooth bezel that gives it a unique character amongst the other members of the Rolex family of sport watches. On the back of the Rolex Milgauss, unlike the Submariner but like the Sea-Dweller, there are markings for the model, the brand, and Oyster case.
Inside the Rolex Milgauss is the in-house Rolex 3131 movement, that while hidden from view, is superbly accurate and sparsely decorated. I’ve spent weeks wearing it noticing only about +/- 1 or 2 seconds difference from my iPhone reference time which I used to set the Rolex Milgauss using the 3131 movement hacking feature. The power reserve is 48 hours and the 3131 movement can also be wound manually by unscrewing the non-protected large but flat crown. There is no date on the Rolex Milgauss since any cutout on the dial would likely interfere with the operation of the Faraday cage. Finally, the 3131 movement includes the Rolex Parachrom hairspring which is made with a highly non-magnetic material, providing additional protection from the omnipresent fields that the Rolex Milgauss tries so hard to fight against.

The lack of a date cutout also results in what is a simply awesomely symmetrical dial; which is easily one of my favorite aspects of the Rolex Milgauss. First, the dial is black with simple baton-like hour markers filled with white Super-Luminova that shine green, though the markers at 3, 6, and 9 are orange-filled and shine blue. At twelve o’clock is a large Rolex coronet underneath which the Rolex Milgauss model is marked with the common Oyster Perpetual. The hour and minutes hands are similar to the Datejust model and are made of white gold with a thin strip of the white Super-Luminova. On the periphery of the dial is the now common ROLEX ROLEX (…) and unique serial number (at 6 o’clock) laser etched markings which helps with counterfeiting and gives the dial a certain genuineness…
But perhaps the best aspects of the dial are these two subsequent features. First, the seconds hand on this watch is the completely unique lightning bolt hand that is painted orange. The color contrasts perfectly with the black dial and also matches the discreet seconds markings around the dial (also in orange). And second, to complete the case, the dial is covered by the uniquely colored crystal matching the corporate colors of Rolex. The crystal is perfectly transparent with hints of green that never overpowers and seem to change intensity depending on the angle you look at the dial or how light is reflected on it. Finally, while you would not think that orange and green would work well together, it does so in this case in spades… and this is coming from someone whose color preferences tends to be conservative (read, black and white).
The Rolex Milgauss case is 40mm with lug to lug measurements coming at mere 48mm. As a result, the watch wears rather small which also means that it will fit most guys. For me, unless I previously wore one of my larger watches, the 40mm case does not bother me. Also, because the Rolex Milgauss weighs in at just under 150 grams, any smallish feelings tend to disappear quickly since you can definitely feel that you are wearing a heavy and solidly built timepiece. The bracelet is of the same steel with polished center links. The adjustment of the screwed links is easily done and the bracelet size can be further slightly adjusted in a breeze with the Easy Link. This is a wonderful Rolex innovation that I often use. Essentially, it allows the bracelet to grow or shrink by 5mm in a few seconds by simply opening the clasp and pulling on one end to release the easy link, or folding it to hide it. The whole thing works simply and brilliantly.
The folding clasp on the Rolex Milgauss is one that can create some debates. Unlike the Oyster Flip Lock clasp that is found on the GMT Master II, this one does not have a folding lock and uses a loose bit that you pull with fingers (or nail) or push to create a lock. That lever-like bit, even when closed, seems to be dangling and does not appear to be securely locked, while the rest of the clasp does lock quite nicely. At first, I did not appreciate this bracelet style, since the dangling part of the bracelet seemed to swivel a bit… However, I have to come to appreciate the fact that it is a lot easier to open and close this bracelet than the Oyster Flip Lock on the GMT Master II. And for a daily wearer at work, I found that the simplicity of the Rolex Milgauss bracelet allows me to adjust it on my wrist quickly and efficiently without even looking at the watch and loosing any concentration on the task at hand.
When Rolex first released the Rolex Milgauss reference 116400GV anniversary model, it was in some short supply which resulted in various speculations and price hikes. However, nowadays you can find it in most authorized dealers, though its price keeps creeping up with Rolex’s yearly price changes, indicating perhaps some level of sales success. The reference 116400GV model retails for $8,200 while the white dial and black dial models go for slightly less: $7,650. The primary difference, besides the different dial schemes is that the GV is the only one with the green crystal, the others have the regular transparent sapphire crystal. It’s also the only Rolex with a non-transparent sapphire crystal.
Overall, I could not be more satisfied with my Rolex Milgauss GV. Even though I work close to heavy scientific equipments and various electrical devices emitting all sorts of magnetic fields, it is doubtful that I really need the kind of protection the Rolex Milgauss provides, though, it’s good to know it’s there. The historical pedigree of the Rolex Milgauss and the fact that it was engineered with science in mind make it the perfect timepiece for nerds, like myself, who tend to also love science.
The Rolex Milgauss is an interesting timepiece in the Rolex collection. First launched in 1956 for scientists and engineers, the timepiece derived its nomenclature from the words “mille” and “gauss” (the latter being a unit of magnetic measurement) – literally translating to 1,000 Gauss.

There were two iterations of the Milgauss in the early 50s and 60s – namely the Reference 6541 and 1019. The latter was produced until 1988, where it was discontinued due to the lack of popularity of the model.

The Rolex Milgauss 116400gv follows the concept of using a Faraday cage – made of ferromagnetic alloys – to protect the movement. It consists of two shield, one screwed to the movement and the other to the cage, to prevent the movement’s components from getting magnetized. Its efficacy was proven when the timepiece was sent for testing to The European Organization for Nuclear Research (CERN).

Back in 2007, the Milgauss was once again reintroduced to the Rolex line-up. It was met with mixed reactions initially, but collectors have certainly grown to love this fascinating timepiece over time. So, how does it fare after 13 years? Let us take a more in-depth look of this tool watch.
You either love or hate the Milgauss – there are no two ways about it. This is perhaps one of the most unusual Rolexes in modern times, when it comes to design and aesthetics. It is bold, confident, and perhaps a little playful. But for those who comment about how boring Rolexes are, the Milgauss is certainly a breath of fresh air.

However, looking beyond the aesthetics, the Rolex Milgauss 116400gv is still a true-blue Rolex timepiece. It is a well-built tool watch, and it is capable of performing whenever it is being called to task. In addition, it is sized rather nicely too, which makes it very comfortable on the wrist. This is a good option for someone who is looking for a reliable daily beater.

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Bovet Dimier

Founder Paul Anthony with Trevor Guilday and Charles-Philippe Bowles travelled to the Val-de-Travers, Switzerland exclusively to see the Dimier 1738 Manufacture & historical Château de Môtiers.

On a frosty February morning, we were picked up from our Geneva apartment to be driven along the snow-laden Swiss landscapes.

Within a few hours, we had arrived at an understated building in a small village called Tramelan. Here, we were greeted by Christophe Persoz, Bovet’s project manager, who personally tour us around the facilitiesOur first port of call was the Dimier 1738 Manufacture purchased by Bovet’s Pascal Raffy in 2006. Christophe explained that Raffy envisioned an entirely in-house production process.In order to realise this, he obtained both the Dimier manufacture as well as the Môtiers château and a dial facility.

Built on two storeys, the manufacture is divided between micromechanics downstairs whilst the upper floor is dedicated to the artisans and watchmakers. The overall workforce consists of 73 employees and artisans of 41 different professions.

After a quick coffee, we headed down to the micromechanics workshops. Once below, we were greeted by an employee handling long machines used for lathing and milling rods into shape.

Although partly automated, these particular machines required programming to cut a particular component at a time. On one end, the rods were viced into a compartment that were then fed into the cutting section.

We were able to see one in action, which was very impressive. The piece being cut was constantly sprayed with oil under high pressure in order to reduce the temperature. Meanwhile, an automated device would both lathe and mill the piece into shape.

The results were breathtaking. A single machine could be programmed to cut a variety of wheels, gears and components with extreme precision. What was particularly impressive was seeing examples still attached to the thick brass rods. The juxtaposition of a delicate watch component hanging from a chunk of raw metal was not without poetry.

State-Of-The-Art Technology
With Bovet’s reputation for handmade timepieces and artisanal values, it was fascinating to see how they progressed with the times. The following room was framed with a variety of machines that were supervised by a handful of technicians.

Some of these were capable of cutting highly complex components. Christophe eagerly brandished a highly-detailed main plate for their 17BM03-GD calibre.This intricate structure comprised of varying curves, cross-sections and spokes on multiple levels. Used on both the Virtuoso VIII and OttantaSei flying tourbillon pieces, it was a technological marvel.Designed with lightness in mind, it’s one of the most complex main plates ever seen. The aim was to create the most lightweight plate possible that was still able to withstand 10 days of power reserve.

In order to build this impressive piece of engineering, we expected that it required several machines to build. However, Christophe pointed to a single one behind him. He then explained that originally Bovet had considered contracting another company to make this as it was so complex.

However, each one turned them down saying that it was impossible to achieve due to the piece’s three-dimensional structure.

Nevertheless, Bovet prevailed whilst staying true to their in-house philosophy. The device he had indicated was able to be programmed with multiple tools to make any component. In this instance, it required 12 separate tools, which were each made by hand in the workshop. Each base plate would take over 8 hours to be intricately created.In order to ensure that every component is precisely constructed to the micron, the centre of the workshop was dedicated to quality control. Several benches were assorted with microscopes, measuring devices and computers.

Here, each and every component would be tested and verified before being taken upstairs for assembly.The next workshop was somewhat more artisanal and what you’d expect from a watchmaker’s workshop but on a larger scale. This time Christophe introduced us to an artisan that was working on the cutting tools for making the components.

With great pride, he showed us a finished piece as Christophe explained how the vices that held the tool worked. A minute blade on a small piece of metal, we had to look close to see what it was.

“How does it take to make one of these?” We asked curiously.

“One week at the very least.” He replied proudly, “I have to cut it down in increments and if I make a mistake, I have throw it away and start again.”

“And how long does it last before needing to be replaced?” We responded.

“Oh, it could break after two days or be good for a few years.” He smiled nonchalantly.

He then enthusiastically brought us a finished component made using the tool. No bigger than a fingernail, it was a finely-sculpted wheel with thin spokes.

We Bespoke Unit team exchanged glances. We were in awe not just in how something so refined could be made by hand but how passionate this man was of his work.In the workshop’s final room, we saw a few other machines in action that were manually run. Although some new technologies could be used with certain components, others still required older, heavy-duty machinery.On one end, a woman was hunched over a machine where she would place washers to be stamped into shape. The structure looked familiar and it turned out it was using the vice and cutting tool made by the man from earlier.

We then were given a demonstration of another machine that would reel in strips of copper and cut them into components. With a purr, it began drawing in the raw metal and chopping away. Below, it would churn out the finished pieces into a box at a high-speed rate.

Many airlines don’t have the facilities that are precise enough to make some of their cockpit parts so Bovet is often called upon to make them instead. Similarly, Bovet realise a number of medical components and instruments thanks to the superior precision that they offer.

Before leaving, we then took a look at a few isometric schematics and the resources used to translate these into action with traditional light panels. After a few complex calculations, an artisan is than able to build the component with the machinery at his disposal.

Surgical Environments Bovet Dimier
As we headed back upstairs, we were fitted in sterilised surgical coats before heading into the workshops. Christophe explained that it was to avoid dust particles dispersing into the air, which would risk contaminating the delicate components inside.The first room we visited was dedicated to engraving and making some of the more intricate pieces by hand. In fact, it was quite a radical change from the rooms below. Where those were loud and energetic rooms with large machinery, this one was more reminiscent of a laboratory.

Artisans hunched over their respective pieces and concentrated on their tasks at hand. Nevertheless, they were delighted to show us some of their work.

One woman, with a particularly appropriate and eye-catching Fleurisanne-style tattoo, was carefully engraving plates under a microscope. Using a small hammer and refined chisel, she carefully tapped away at the polished metal.

She let us take a look through the lens and we would stupefied by the level of detail. Needless to say, the work was painstaking and we admired her steady hands.

Meanwhile, a few older gentlemen worked at their stations on intricate pieces too. Whilst one was carefully buffing, another was working on a piece that was so small, it was barely perceptible on the tip of a finger.

Although dazzled by their work, we left them in piece and moved onto the next room.Before we stepped into a small room in the corner of the facility, Christophe quickly explained that this particular location was somewhat confidential. Therefore, we couldn’t take many photos but we could get a small tour.

However, we were blown away by what we did see. Dedicated to the balance springs, this secretive room would be used to manufacture the world’s most refined coils in existence. Forever loyal to their in-house approach, developing this practice took considerable research, development and investment.

Using a special and confidential technique, Dimier draws and rolls out a unique steel allow into thicknesses measured in microns with a tolerance of less than 0.0001 mm. These are then carefully coiled in a surgical environment.

More impressively, the actual balance wheels on which the springs are fixed aren’t a solid piece either. Instead, they are small spokes with thin weights that come together in an almost science fiction design.

Finally, Christophe added that it was very rare for a watch firm to make these themselves. In fact, many other brands turn to Bovet to supply them with springs as it’s an expensive and sophisticated process.After checking out a few painting rooms as well as where the dial’s logo was printed using the transfer method, we were ushered into the assembly room. Although it was lunchtime, most of the technicians kindly stayed to show us their work.

In the surgically sterilised environment, technicians carefully put together the components into full movements. Here we witnessed the fruit of all the other rooms’ labour as the timepieces were carefully and intricately assembled by hand.

Through monocle eyepieces and furrowed brows, the technicians hunched over their work as they delicately put together and test the movements. One artisan took a little time to show us the completed movement in action. It was breathtaking to see all those complications of 400+ components working in harmony after having seen their construction only moments earlier.At the end of our tour of Dimiers, we were taken to a small open-space office where designers would work on the 3D models of current and future calibres.Given that much of what happened in this room was highly confidential, we were delighted that they took the time to show us some less restricted designs.

Using Autodesk’s Inventor software, each watch had been assembled in a 3D render. The designers then could strip down the full watch in its case so we could see every component and how they came together.

It was particularly impressive to see Bovet’s patented spherical winding mechanism in a full 3D environment. Here, we could really understand how the tridimensional toothing came into play and made such an innovative concept possible. Bovet Dimier

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rolex deep sea dweller

There are luxury watch brands, and then there is Rolex. No matter where you go on the globe, you will find someone who’s in awe of this outstanding manufacturer of timepieces. For over a century, everyone from actors to musicians to politicians and other highly successful people has worn this luxury watch brand on their wrist.

But a Rolex watch is more than just a status symbol. It’s a piece of machinery that’s been made by master craftsmen in Switzerland. And it’s an excellent piece of jewelry that can enhance anyone’s outfit.

Rolex watches are also functional too. This is certainly true of the Rolex Sea-Dweller series, which was first introduced in 1967. The very first in this series was the Rolex Double Red Sea-Dweller. And, since then, some fantastic Rolex watches have been part of this series, including the Triple Six Sea-Dweller and the Great White Sea-Dweller.

In 2008, Rolex launched the Deepsea Sea-Dweller. Before its launch, many skeptics doubted that the Sea-Dweller series could improve, but the Rolex Deepsea took everyone by surprise. This incredible watch is loved just as much by divers as it is by experienced watch collectors.

The Rolex Deepsea also has a special relationship with the famous Hollywood film director, James Cameron. A limited-edition version of the Rolex Deepsea was released in honor of the director of Titanic, Avatar, and The Terminator.

Key Features of the Replica Rolex Deepsea
Water Resistance: The Rolex Deepsea is a diving watch. As a result, it offers complete water resistance to a depth of 3,990m or 12,800ft. This is an incredible depth that blows its competitors out of the water. You won’t find any Tag Heuers that offer water-resistance of a similar depth.

Helium Escape Valve: This is another feature that professional divers love about the Rolex Deepsea. This valve allows for helium to escape when a diver is returning to the surface during decompression.

Without this valve, the crystal could be forced out of the watch case, meaning it’ll no longer function. This is a highly effective feature that’s especially important for deep-sea divers, which is who the Rolex Deepsea was created for.

3235 Movement: This self-winding movement watch that has been created and made by Rolex. It provides precise timing, shock resistance, stability, and durability. It also has an integrated Chronergy escapement, which ensures dependability as well as efficiency.

Oyster Bracelet: This is a feature of many Rolex watches that give the Rolex Deepsea such beautiful looks. But it’s also comfortable, breathable, and – more importantly – it’s also robust, meaning that it can withstand a lot of wear and tear, especially when worn during deep-sea dives.

Blue Dial: Again, this contributes to the Rolex Deepsea’s stunning looks.

Oystersteel Case: This is another classic Rolex feature. It’s a highly resistant material that will never corrode. It will survive harsh environments, which only increases the functionality of this superb luxury watch.

  • The Rolex Deepsea is a function dive watch that will continue to work down to a depth of 3,990m. It’s built to be used during dives, which means that it’s highly resistant to corrosion and able to withstand anything that it comes up against, even in extremely dangerous waters. It is the perfect watch for professional divers.
  • Besides being incredibly functional, the Rolex Deepsea looks beautiful too. Rolex is known for its aesthetics, which is why the watch brand has such a sensational reputation. And this diver’s watch is a perfect example of those stunning looks. It can be worn for a wide range of purposes, as a dress watch with a business suit, with a t-shirt down to the beach, or for any other activity. It’s a very versatile watch that looks great.
  • It’s a Rolex watch. And a Rolex watch means dependability, accuracy, precision, and efficiency. No other watch brand can compete with the quality that Rolex provides. Yes, Patek Phillipe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet are excellent watch manufacturers, but they’re not Rolex. There is only one Rolex, and the Rolex Deepsea is perfect proof of why this watch brand is in a league of its own.
    – There is only ever one con when it comes to Rolex watches, and that’s the price. The Rolex Deepsea is an expensive watch. Then again, that is only a disadvantage if you cannot afford a Rolex Deepsea. If you have the money to buy one, then there’s no obstacle between you and this exceptional, efficient, luxury diving watch. You can always check out these cheaper Rolex watches.
    Rolex designed the Deepsea for professional divers. Although professional divers love this watch, it’s also a luxury men’s watch that looks incredible, so it should be considered by anyone who values quality and wants to look good. The Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea has lots of famous fans, and it’s been spotted on the wrists of Steph Curry, Dave Navarro, Joe Rogan, Tiger Woods, and also Charlize Theron. If it’s good enough for these leaders in their fields, then it’s good enough for anyone.
    The Replica Rolex Deepsea is a faultless watch that’s worth every penny it costs. This fully functional dive watch offers water resistance to a depth of 3,990m, features a helium escape valve so that it doesn’t break during decompression, and has a durable Oyster bracelet.

It’s also a beautiful timepiece that can be worn as a dress watch or an everyday watch. It’s simply stunning and a perfect example of why Rolex is one of the best watch brands on earth.