Posted on

U-BOAT Capsoil Doppiotempo

Originally founded in 1942 as Officine Fontana, the brand was created with an intention to supply watches for the Italian Navy. The watches were well-engineered, with advanced designs to meet the Navy’s technical specifications. The project was forgotten subsequently, as the military contract was not realised. It was only in 2000 where the blueprints were discovered, which subsequently led to the rebirth of the brand.
The U-BOAT Capsoil Doppiotempo is a new model that was first released in 2019. Similar to the other watches from the brand, this timepiece is based off the blueprints that were discovered by the descendants. The only difference is that this was inspired by a watch that was designed specifically for Col Moschin – the Italian Army’s parachute-assault regime. This is unlike the Navy-inspired diver’s watches that the brand is typically known for.
The most conspicuous aspect that points the 43mm watch to its heritage roots is the large ultra-domed sapphire crystal – a signature of watches from the yesteryear. It is rather typical of watch manufacturers to incorporate the curved sapphire crystal into their watches, but we have to admit that U-BOAT’s iteration for the 1938 Doppiotempo works rather well with the thin bezel and the “recessed-like” dial (aided by the chapter bidirectional internal bezel that forms a concave shape with the dial).
The dial of the Doppiotempo is also quite intriguing. The watch features two superimposed dial – one main dial for the usual timekeeping, and a smaller sub-dial for the 24-hour indicator. For the main dial, the watch features the brand’s signature “4, 8, and 12” Arabic numeral indices. There is also an additional inner bidirectional bezel, where it synchronises with the additional red hand to tell the time on a separate time zone.

One of the recurring themes of the watch is its vintage roots, and this is heavily emphasised by the use of beige on the indices, numerals, and hands of the watch. The beige lends the watch a rustic charm, but it is also a reminiscence of the aged materials that are present on the dial.

Notably, the watch is seemed to be produced for the left-handed. The date aperture, for instance, is located at the 9 o’clock position. The same goes for the twin crown, in which one is used for time-adjustments and the other is for rotating the inner bidirectional bezel.
Overall, in terms of the design, we think that the U-BOAT 1938 Doppiotempo is a nice watch. It is not a timepiece for everyone, as some might find it to be a little too messy or cluttered. However, we do think that it is not too much of a problem for us, and that the different functions are rather useful and intuitive as well – especially for the author as his day job requires him to keep track of another time zone as well.
Powering the U-BOAT is an unidentified Swiss movement. For some of the other U-BOAT watches, we have noted that they were fitted with the ETA 2824-2 movement. However, as the specifications were a little different, we do not wish to spend too much time dwelling and speculating on this matter.

The self-winding movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and it boasts a power reserve of 44 hours. As mentioned above, the watch features a date indicator and a dual time zone display. According to the press release, the movement is also personalised to U-BOAT’s specifications – which explains the U-BOAT winding rotor that can been seen via the transparent case-back.

Finishing-wise, the movement is nothing too spectacular. But it is important to note that this is modestly priced watch, and it is more important to focus on its robustness as compared to its decoration techniques. Frankly, it has served us well without a hitch, and we are definitely more than satisfied with its performance during the time when we had the timepiece.
The U-BOAT 1938 Doppiotempo is priced at €1,938 (approximately S$3,078). At this price point, the 1938 Doppiotempo offers tremendous value – considering its complication and its build quality. It was quite a joy to wear this timepiece, and its versatile nature makes it rather compelling as well.

There are certainly some competitors in the field to consider as well. We predominantly narrow it down to vintage-inspired timepieces with a second time zone indicator.

The U-BOAT 1938 Doppiotempo is a nice watch with an interesting provenance to boot. We like the heritage behind it, as well as the functionality of the watch. It is also very well-priced too, which makes it a highly exciting prospect.

Truth to be told, the older U-BOAT watches are not entirely our cup of tea. It is a little too brash and loud, although there are definitely collectors who have a thing for such timepieces. But the 1938 Doppiotempo had changed our mind entirely. This is actually well-made and highly versatile watch. The leather strap is also worth a mention, and we especially like how U-BOAT had additionally included the “Doppiotempo” engraving on it.

The U-boat 1938 Doppiotempo is a hidden gem. We highly recommend collectors to take a look at this watch, especially if one is looking for something that is different from the crowd. It is seriously underrated, and frankly, the brand has got strong potential to do well if it continues to produce such wonderful timepieces.

Posted on

U-Boat Darkmoon

The U-Boat Darkmoon collection was officially announced in November 2018. They just released the second iteration of this concept called Darkmoon. This new line takes on a more minimalist approach with a lower entry price, but looking at it, we can’t help thinking about other oily timepieces – because in the watch industry, there is nothing new under the sun, or moon for that matter (watch brands love the moon, especially the dark side for some reason).

Back in 2013, KeepTheTime introduced the liquid-filled Ressence Type 3 at Baselworld. It turns out the the “liquid” was… oil. The Type 3 received mixed reactions from the community, but mostly because of its $30,000 USD price tag. The high retail meant that our video was the closest most watch enthusiasts would get to seeing one in action.
“CAPSOIL goes beyond the boundaries of traditional design, combining innovative features with retro-style lines. The oily liquid flows into the dial making it an absolute and deep black that surprisingly amplifies view of the hands that seem to flow free as in the absence of the glass.” -U-Boat

Although both are oil-filled watches that look futuristic and cool, they cannot be compared from an engineering and design standpoint. The big difference between the Capsoil and the Type 3 (and Type 5) is that the Ressence is a mechanical watch, and the Darkmoon is powered by a $16.95 Swiss quartz movement.
Above is a photo from Amazon of the battery-powered movement visible through an exhibition style caseback. Although, it appears that U-Boat listened to criticism about it being a quartz watch and newer models have a solid caseback with no running seconds hand (making it less obvious that it’s a quartz watch).

The movement is a 2-handed Ronda caliber 712 with a battery life of about 60 months. The dials of the Capsoil/Darkmoon models have red text that reads: Working Between 0/+60 degrees Celsius. Interestingly, the Ronda tech sheets list the operating temperature of the 712 to be 0-50 C.
A quartz movement makes sense, because a mechanical watch will not operate when fully submerged in oil. Ressence was able to overcome this obstacle by inventing a dual-chamber case with oil injected into the upper half and air at the bottom where the movement is housed.

The innovation didn’t stop there. When it launched, the Ressence Type 3’s claim to fame was that it was a crownless watch which is wound and set by rotating the bottom (air-filled) half of the case. The U-Boat Darkmoon isn’t crownless, but they did make it a destro piece by moving the slim crown to the left of the case.
We know from performing DIY oil-filled mods that it is possible to achieve results without an air bubble, but it takes extra time and precision. U-Boat says they intentionally left a bubble of air under the crystal so that the oil can be seen floating around. Perhaps production scalability was part of their decision to leave the bubble, or maybe it’s because the bubble is evidence that there really is oil inside.
The bubble does play well with the no-bezel curved crystal (another element that feels similar to the Ressence), but it’s kind of like having an inverted cyclops from a Panerai floating around under the crystal. Some will really like it, and others will be annoyed at the idea of having a spirit level strapped to the wrist.
The original Capsoil pieces have a door at 3:00 on the case that says Unscrew to Fill Up. It is yet to be seen whether the bubble will get bigger or smaller over time, and how “filling up” will affect it. What we do know is that your local watchmaker most likely won’t want to touch this watch when you drop it off for a new battery, so prepare yourself to hear that it has to go back to U-Boat for service.

Either way, we like how U-Boat Darkmoon has incorporated the bubble into their marketing identity for the Capsoil and Darkmoon lines.
The oil-filled collection is available in a 44mm 2 hand model or a 45mm chronograph. None of the models have a date. They ship out on a 22mm lug-width vulcanised rubber strap with U-BOAT CAPSOIL text. The black dials feature “Old Radium” Super-LumiNova lume on the hands and markers.
The case can be in steel or black DLC. Although it was mentioned above that prices start at $980, that is for the steel DARKMOON model (ref: 8463) with a mineral crystal and 50m water resistance. As a comparison, the DLC chrono (ref: 8109/B) is priced at $2,290 USD with sapphire and a 100m water rating.

Overall, the Darkmoon looks like a fun watch for around $1k and worth checking out. Explore the Capsoil collection here and the new Darkmoon watches here.

Posted on

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver

As of this year, the dive-specific Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver is celebrating its sweet sixteenth with a newly updated reference. It spans three new colorways and represents the biggest evolution for the ROO Diver – ROOD? – since the model graduated from being the Offshore Scuba (which originally launched in 2005) to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver. The new 2021 models are rocking a more modern movement, tool-less push-button strap changing, and several small but noteworthy design tweaks.
To tackle the elephant in the room, no, the size has not changed. The new reference 15720ST retains the 42mm sizing of the standard Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver, along with its uncommon two-crown layout, display caseback, 300 meters of water resistance, and a time/date feature set.
Available from launch in “Trailblazing Khaki,” “Navy Blue,” and “Pristine Grey,” each version has a steel case and comes with a second strap so owners can try the new quick-change system right out of the box. The system is fully integrated into the back of the two short intermediate lugs used to match the strap to the case. Simply press the button and release the strap (see the above photo).

Audemars Piguet plans to offer a range of straps and, alongside the pair that comes with the watch, the brand already has a trio of calfskin leather straps that conform to the new swappable design.
Inside, and forming one of the more major elements of this update, we find Audemars Piguet’s modern caliber 4308, a beautifully finished automatic movement with central seconds, a date display, a rate of 4 Hz, and a power reserve of 60 hours. Visible through the Royal Oak Offshore Diver’s display caseback, the 4308 also featured a black-finished 22k pink gold winding rotor.
Other updates include changes to the dial, including new markers and an “AP” signature (in gold) rather than the full brand name common to previous iterations of the ROO Diver.
As an exercise in evolving an already successful and qualified design, the new 15720ST looks like a subtle and thoughtful take on the Royal Oak Offshore Diver form. The original black-dial model that was announced in 2010 has long been a dream watch for me, and these new versions look every bit as appealing, especially given the interesting colorways (Pristine Grey for me, please) and the interchangeable straps.

Any of the three can be yours as early as May assuming you’ve got $25,400 and a good friend at the boutique. But please – pretty please – just promise me that if you get one, you’ll also take it for a swim every once in a while. After all

Posted on

Replica Rolex Datejust 31 Watch Replica Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Watch 116519-0038

Replica Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Watch 116519-0038
Meteorite comes from the heart of an asteroid or possibly even a planet that has exploded, propelling material across the Solar System until chance brings it into our planet’s orbit and gravity pulls it to Earth. During its journey, the centre of the meteorite is gradually transformed, producing highly unusual metallic patterns, resulting from the very slow cooling of molten asteroid cores. The designers at Rolex create from these configurations a unique treasure for some of the most prestigious models, including this Cosmograph Daytona.
A key part of the model’s identity is the bezel moulded with a tachymetric scale for measuring average speeds of up to 400 miles or kilometres per hour. Blending of high technology with sleek aesthetics, the black bezel is reminiscent of the 1965 model that was fitted with a black Plexiglas bezel insert.

The monobloc Cerachrom bezel in high-tech ceramic offers a number of advantages: it is corrosion resistant, virtually scratchproof and the colour is unaffected by UV rays. This extremely durable bezel also offers an exceptionally legible tachymetric scale, thanks to the deposition of a thin layer of platinum in the numerals and graduation via a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) process. The monobloc Cerachrom bezel is made in a single piece and holds the crystal firmly in place on the middle case, ensuring waterproofness.
By operating its own exclusive foundry, Replica Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Watch 116519-0038 has the unrivalled ability to cast the highest quality 18 ct gold alloys. According to the proportion of silver, copper, platinum or palladium added, different types of 18 ct gold are obtained: yellow, pink or white. They are made with only the purest metals and meticulously inspected in an in-house laboratory with state-of-the-art equipment, before the gold is formed and shaped with the same painstaking attention to quality. Rolex’s commitment to excellence begins at the source.
All Rolex watches are assembled by hand with the utmost care to ensure exceptional quality. Such high standards naturally restrict Rolex production capacity and, at times, the demand for Rolex watches outpaces this capacity.

Therefore, the availability of certain models may be limited. New Rolex watches are exclusively sold by Official Rolex Retailers, who receive regular deliveries and independently manage the allocation and sales of watches to customers.

Kee Hing Hung is proud to be part of the worldwide network of Official Rolex Retailers and can provide information on the availability of Rolex watches.
Synonymous with excellence and reliability, Replica Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Watch 116519-0038 are designed for everyday wear, and depending on the model, perfectly suited for a wide range of sports and other activities. Built to last, these timepieces are characterized by their distinctive and timeless esthetics. The Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona is designed for those with a passion for driving and speed. Learn more about its features and how to set the time and use the chronograph functions by watching the video.
Launched in 1963, the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona was designed to meet the needs of professional racing drivers. This year, Rolex presents exclusive versions of its Cosmograph Daytona, the benchmark for those with a passion for driving and speed. They feature a dial made from metallic meteorite – a rare natural material from outer space – with black chronograph counters at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock.

Posted on

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon

Most time-only watches aren’t that difficult to make. But most time-only watches aren’t Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon.

On Monday, the Swiss watchmaker unveiled six new editions of its Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon watches (five in 18k white gold cases and a sixth in 18k pink gold), each set with an array of gemstones. Each of the 38.5 mm watches runs on a hand-wound movement, AP’s calibre 2951, which offers a minimum power reserve of 77 hours. The new watches are water-resistant up to 20 meters—not that you’d go swimming in anything this intricate—and feature glare-proof sapphire crystals and case backs. All of the models have crowns set with translucent sapphire cabochon gemstones. They’re available with two strap options: a “large square-scale” blue alligator strap, while the other is a blue rubber strap with a “constellation” decoration that looks like tone-on-tone pixels.
That’s where the similiarities end. The cases, bezels, dials and buckles are variously set with hundreds of painstakingly selected diamonds, sapphires and other colored gems. Even the tourbillons are decorated with 9 brilliant-cut sapphires or diamonds—not something easy to achieve with a lightweight and important timekeeping component. Every jewel adorning the new watches was individually cut and polished to form a specific shape; then later set in gold by the hand of an expert jeweler to enhance the watch’s unique pyramidal dial accents and to catch the light.
Models from the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon series.

The new series includes two rainbow watches that showcase up to 12 types of colored gemstones: They’re decorated with rubies, tsavorites, emeralds, topaz, tanzanites, amethysts and an array of colored sapphires. One model combines a diamond-set case and dial with a bezel set with baguette-cut gems in rainbow colors, the other colorful piece has been entirely set with brilliant-cut multicolored gemstones.

Two other watches—in white and pink gold—come covered in a whopping 208 baguette-cut blue sapphires selected and set to form a gradient effect. The sapphires were cut in 144 sizes to match the curves of the Royal Oak Concept case and the architecture of the dial. Tiny grooves were then delicately incised into the stones and meticulously snapped one by one onto a hidden rail mounted in each piece’s gold component. Audemars Piguet says the invisible gem setting can take up to 150 hours of work to complete.

Both of those blue-hued Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon will be available in select Audemars Piguet retailers next year. The other four watches with brilliant-cut gemstones will be available in select locations for this October. Visit the Audemars Piguet website for more information.
Audemars Piguet is known for developing fashionable luxury timepieces. Raising the bar for gem setting, the Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer has just unveiled a small series of six new Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon models in 18-karat white and pink gold on 38.5-mm cases with an array of graded colored gemstones and diamonds.

Brilliant- or baguette-cut gemstones are to be expected, with four models making the most of graded blue sapphires, while two of them check the rainbow box that most luxury (and fashion) watch manufacturers have made a covetable piece, with gems that include rubies, tsavorites, emeralds, topaz, tanzanites and amethysts.

The open-worked timepieces are powered by a 225-part hand-wound manufacture caliber 2951, which has a 77-hour power reserve, flying tourbillon and power reserve indicator.
The four pieces set with brilliant-cut gemstones will be available in select Audemars Piguet points of sale beginning this month with the two baguette-cut versions arriving in 2022. Pricing is available upon request.

Previous drops of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon unveiled earlier this year included a Black Panther-themed watch with a black and purple color scheme, the brand’s first piece to result from its new partnership with Marvel.

Posted on

Ulysse Nardin Classico Jade 37mm

In 2013, Ulysse Nardin Classico Jade 37mm launched Jade as a tribute to a revered gemstone that the royal court in China considered “crystallized magic”—the link between heaven and earth. Now, five years later, five new Jade ladies pay homage to an even more precious stone: the diamond.
These exquisite timepieces have a new round case shape and a new home in the Classic Collection. Graced with classic hour, minute and second hands powered by the collection’s dedicated calibre, the self-winding and ever-reliable UN-815, the flagship editions fuse Haute Joaillerie techniques, time-honoured craftsmanship and captivating feminine allure.
Ten diamonds in a delicate leaf-like wave motif adorn the lower left quadrant of the round mother-of-pearl dials; 76 more sparkle on the stunning bezel in stainless steel.
The very feminine color options – blue leather strap and oversized blue Arabic indexes, white leather strap with grey numerals, or garnet red leather strap with red numerals – perfectly match the mother-of-pearl’s sumptuous tones and the diamonds’ incandescent fire.
The blue and grey editions are also available with more discreet bezels in unadorned stainless steel.Ulysse Nardin Classico Jade 37mm

Posted on

Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600

Born to ply the mysterious depths of our largely unknown seas, Rolex’s Sea-Dweller is a tool watch icon. In 2017, Rolex announced the 50th-anniversary of their burly dive watch with the reference 126600 Sea-Dweller. Bearing a red signature that reached back to the model’s own roots, the 12660 was a notable update that managed to double-down on the ethos that has always separated the Sea-Dweller from the likes of the Submariner. Understandably, we couldn’t think of a better watch to mark World Oceans Day. Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600
For the full inside scoop on the 126600, look no further than this exhaustive review, written by Ben back in July of 2017. From the history of Rolex dive watches to notable past references and a full breakdown of the new model, the Sea-Dweller remains endlessly cool and a great watch for summer, above and below the waves. It’s a long read, but what else are weekends for?
The Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600 was announced at Baselworld 2017, in celebration of the 50th anniversary of the model (launched in 1967). The Sea-Dweller is one of Rolex’s most important, though arguably least commercial products – a true tool watch catering to true professionals. This latest incarnation is very much a Sea-Dweller, but there are many updates, including some that are technically minor but emotionally significant departures from models that came before. In this A Week On The Wrist review, I’ll examine those and try to unpack just what they mean. Also, we’ll talk about what this watch is meant to do, and what it’s not meant to do.
In my detailed look at Rolex from 2015, I talk about founder Hans Wildorf’s pursuit of three different properties that would come to define Rolex watches: precision timekeeping, an automatic movement, and finally, resistance to water. Why was this so important to Wilsdorf? Because prior to the introduction of the Oyster in 1926, watches (then mostly of the pocket variety) were often seen at sporting events, but always on the sidelines.

However, Wilsdorf believed there was a real market for watches that could be worn during active sports by participants themselves. The early Oyster cases featured the first fluted bezels used by Rolex, so that watchmakers could screw them in tighter to the case middle. Of course, the screw-down Oyster crown was an important innovation from the Rolex family that further allowed wearers of these watches to go deeper than ever before.

In 1953, Rolex and Blancpain both showed professional dive watches (which came first is debatable and therefore frequently debated) and the category that many of us love so much was born. While the Fifty Fathoms was discontinued decades ago before being reintroduced by the modern incarnation of Blancpain, the Submariner has remained a constant force in the watch world for over 60 years. When it was first shown, complete with its screw-down crown, luminous radium dial, and rotating bezel, one could expect water resistance up to an impressive (for that time) 100 meters.
Indeed, reference 6204 and the original “big crown” reference 6200 offered divers remarkably robust tool watches. The later 6205, 6536, and 6538 followed suit, as the did the later Submariners that we all know today.
Before that though, Rolex produced what was arguably the ne plus ultra of pre-1950s dive watches as well, they just didn’t have the Rolex name on the dial. Yes, some of the original Panerais – during this period created predominantly for Italian military divers – were made completely by Rolex, and feature Rolex cases and movements. It should be noted not all of the early Panerai wristwatches used Rolex movements and cases, but several of the earliest did and they remain very collectible – one such example is the tropical dial piece owned by John Goldberger and seen in his episode of Talking Watches.
Rolex continued to produce the Submariner in a host of variants without interruption, and as you all know, continues to produce it today. In the first couple of decades of consumer and professional dive watch production, there were certainly other serious dive watches out there, but many of them though impressive technically were not widely distributed, and few reached the level of commercial or professional success of the Sub. Omega’s Seamaster line is truly the Submariner’s only contender in the 1960s for a readily available dive watch, and they should not be over looked – though the story of the Seamaster has far more tangents than that of the Submariner. But this story isn’t about the Submariner, is it? Let’s move on to the introduction of the other Rolex dive watch, which came about 14 years later.
In many ways, the Sea-Dweller is the best expression of Rolex as a brand. From its very beginning, the model showed a preoccupation on Rolex’s part with extensive over-engineering, and performance above all else. Remember, Rolex already had a more than capable dive watch in the 5512 and 5513 Submariners, and yet it wanted to build something even tougher – a watch meant for those who not only worked, but in some cases, actually lived underwater.
The Sea-Dweller was born in an era when the next great stage of exploration – of extreme environments never before visited – was just beginning. Man had not yet been to the moon. It was just a decade before that Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay scaled Everest for the first time; a few short years later, in 1960, the bathyscaphe Trieste successfully descended to the deepest point in the ocean. It was also during this time that the first permanent research stations were established in Antarctica, and that Nautilus, the first nuclear submarine, traveled under the Polar ice cap to the North Pole.

This was an era of scientific discovery, and the world was captivated by these feats of perseverance and determination to the point where the dive into the Marianas Trench landed Bob Walsh and Jacques Piccard on the cover of Life Magazine, arguably the magazine of record for most Americans at the time. These years of prosperity led to some of mankind’s greatest explorations, and it was these feats by the greatest generation that captured the minds and hearts of the baby boomers. There was simply nothing more exciting than exploration in the late 1950s and early 1960s, whether of outer space or the deepest oceans, and this is why it makes perfect sense that during this period, Rolex developed the Sea-Dweller.
It should be noted that the Sea-Dweller did come after the Deep-Sea Special, the watch clamped to the outside of the Trieste when it descended to the bottom of the Challenger Deep. But that watch was enormous – completely unwearable – and of course, it wasn’t even really designed to be worn in the first place. The same can be said for another experimental watch made by Rolex in 2012, the Deepsea Challenge, a monster 51mm mega-dive watch that James Cameron strapped to the outside of his vessel when he recreated the historic 1960 dive. The Sea-Dweller wasn’t devised as a one-time use tool, or a prototype from which other technology could be taken – it was made for the most serious divers in the world, and meant to be worn daily, over a long period of time.
As mentioned, the connection between outer space and “inner space,” (a term that was coined by the Eisenhower administration after the successful dives of Trieste) was a real one. In fact, one of NASA’s most famous names played a part in both. Scott Carpenter, one of the original seven Mercury astronauts and the pilot of the second manned orbital flight by an American, in Aurora 7, took leave from NASA in 1965 to participate in the U.S. Navy’s “Man-in-the-Sea” Project called SEALAB. (Because hey, isn’t that what most of us would do if given a leave of absence from NASA?) As a team leader for SEALAB II off the coast of La Jolla, California in the summer of 1965, Carpenter and his team members spent 30 days living and working on the ocean floor conducting studies from a seafloor habitat at 205 feet underwater.

With Carpenter was Bob Barth, who was the only man to participate in the three different SEALAB missions. His Submariner reference 5512 was offered for sale a few years back though the seller made no mention of how important this Submariner and its owner were for the development of the Sea-Dweller.
In an interview conducted by Jason Heaton back in 2012, Barth tells of how he and his fellow crew members, while undergoing decompression in a decompression chamber, would sometimes hear a quick “pop” only to find that the crystal of someone’s watch – Submariners, Blancpains, and Tudors, mostly – had come off. The basic problem was the helium in the breathing gasses used in SEALAB. Helium forms very small molecules, which can over time penetrate the seals of a dive watch and build up in the case. Divers would spend several days in a decompression chamber, where air pressure would gradually be lowered from that at working depth, to air pressure at sea level. The helium would not be able to leak back out of the watch case quickly enough and the result was increasingly greater pressure inside the watch case – often, enough to pop the crystal off. It was the SEALAB missions that first called for a helium escape valve, which was introduced within the Rolex range on the Sea-Dweller and remains a staple of this model to this day.
The Sea-Dweller reference 1665 was introduced in 1967 as Rolex’s biggest, baddest, most capable dive watch. It was water resistant to 610 meters, roughly double what a 5513 was rated to at the time, and featured two lines of red text reading “Sea-Dweller / Submariner 2000”. The crown was a Trip-Lock; the watch featured a date (useful to saturation divers who could spend days in a decompression chamber) and it was the first time a Rolex diver would feature the complication, predating the 1680 Submariner ever so briefly.

The crystal was domed and cyclops-less. The bracelet had an extension clasp that allowed the owner to quickly open up the bracelet to allow it to fit on the outside of a diving suit. This is how the Sea-Dweller was born and how it remained for some time (we would lose the red lettering in the mid 70s around the same time the 1680 lost its red from the dial) and over the years we would see continual improvements to water resistant engineering in Rolex’s most professional line. That is, of course, until Rolex killed the Sea-Dweller as we know it.
Now, Rolex is nothing if not consistent. And to think that one of the mighty five Rolex sports watches introduced in the 1950s and 60s could be effectively killed off is hard to believe. But it happened, sort of. From 2009 to 2014, there was no Sea-Dweller in the Rolex catalog. Okay, so there was the 44mm Sea-Dweller Deep-Sea, which took the concept of a pro tool diver even further, with its downright silly 3,900 meter depth rating. But along with it came an oversized 44mm case, and then in 2014, the gradient blue to black dial of the “D-Blue” edition.

It was the first time in recent years that Rolex creating a special dial for one of its existing sports watches, and it did not sit well with everyone. Still, the D-Blue was one of the hottest watches in the world when it was announced, and the traditional black dial 44mm, titanium caseback Sea-Dweller Deep-Sea is very much a Rolex – it’s just that many yearned for a serious diver in a traditional 40mm size.

At Baselworld 2014, that’s what we got with the Sea-Dweller 4000. Reference 116600 was 40mm in diameter, featured a cyclops-less crystal and ceramic bezel, and was rated to 4000 feet, or 1,220 meters. This may not have been a super exciting reference, but it filled a void that had been vacant for half a decade and all was well with the world of Rolex divers. And then came Baselworld 2017.
Rolex at Baselworld 2017 was a little anti-climactic for some, at least relative to 2016. There wasn’t an A-list mega introduction like there was last year with the Daytona. Instead there was an update to the least well-known and certainly least understood tool watch made by Rolex.

The new Sea-Dweller came as a surprise in some ways but not others. Of course, 2017 marks the 50th anniversary of the introduction of the first Sea-Dweller 1665. But also it’s important to note that we got a whole new Sea-Dweller in 2014 – that’s a heck of a short run for a Rolex reference when you remember that the first Sea-Dweller was made from 1967 all the way up until the 1980s. The 5513 ran from the early ’60s through the late ’80s.

This is Rolex, dammit, and things shouldn’t change too quickly – but they did. Though the 116600 Sea-Dweller 4000 was a great watch, with its cyclops-less crystal, 40mm case, and ceramic bezel, Rolex replaced it just three years after it was introduced.

The new Rolex 126600 is very much a Sea-Dweller though, don’t be confused about that. It has a helium escape valve just as it should and it’s water resistant to 1,300 feet deeper than the Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building, is high. The thing is incredible, undoubtedly. However we gained three millimeters in diameter from 2014 to 2017, and that means it’s no longer the same case size as the original. Further we have a cyclops window on the crystal, which if you’re a Sea-Dweller guy, could be seen as something of a tragedy. Let’s go through the reference 126600 in detail, now that I’ve had a chance to spend a week wearing it.

Posted on

Rolex Datejust 41

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust is a certified, self-winding chronometer wristwatch manufactured by Rolex. When it was launched in 1945, the Datejust was the first self-winding chronometer wristwatch to indicate the date in a window on the dial. Today, it exists in a variety of sizes from 28mm to 41mm, in stainless steel, two-tone gold, and solid gold versions.
In 2016, Rolex released the new reference 126333 Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 watch (debuted here) which quietly replaced the outgoing Datejust II that Rolex had been making for a few years. Both models are larger-sized versions of the classic Rolex Datejust 41 that for most of its life came in a 36mm-wide case. The Rolex Datejust is one of the world’s most popular luxury timepieces and has been around since Rolex originally released the Datejust back in 1945.
I’ve been wearing the Rolex 126333 Datejust 41 quite regularly for the last few months as part of my normal timepiece rotation. This is one of those watches that I also happened to add to my own collection. It was not until I was able to wear the watch for a while that I was able to truly develop a relationship with the Rolex Datejust in a way that so many owners have done over the collection’s long lifespan. One of the major questions that I was trying to answer as part of my review is “what category does this watch fit into?” I’ll get to why that question is important later on.
When Rolex originally released the Datejust, the name of the watch made a lot more sense. Quite literally, the main technical attraction to the watch was the fact that it had a movement that was able to automatically change the date at midnight, which was a novel piece of functionality at the time. Since then, the humble “date complication” has gone on to become the most popular function on wristwatches right after displaying the current time.
As a company, Rolex rarely releases brand-new model families. Instead, part of the “Rolex Way” – a clever marketing term for a very real culture at the company – is to maintain strong pillars of production collections and improve and expand upon them as they feel might best serve the market. Thus, the majority of Rolex’s stable of watch lines (Submariner, Explorer, GMT-Master, Daytona, Day-Date, Datejust, et cetera) have been around for decades. What this means is that while there is “one Datejust,” in reality there are dozens and dozens of variants from previous years, as well as those currently available.
The Rolex Datejust is the most popular among all the brand’s collections, and that includes Datejust watches made for both men and women. Especially including women’s models, there is an incredible variety of styles, sizes, material and dial choices, and more. As an enthusiast, it can be extremely challenging to navigate currently available and formerly available Rolex Datejust models, perhaps even more so than most other watches the storied high-end Swiss watch maker produces. It is here where we should add that some of the now discontinued Rolex Datejust II models may still be around in stores for some time.
What makes tracking Rolex Datejust models even more complicated is the variety of dial, bezel, and bracelet options. Even though Rolex debuted the Datejust 41 in exclusively a two-tone (“Rolesor,” as they call it) variation as opposed to just steel, you can opt for either steel and yellow gold or steel and Everose gold, choose between two bracelet options (Jubilee or Oyster), and between a total of ten dial options between the two gold variants, and last but not least, pick a polished “flat” bezel or a fluted bezel as seen here. All I can say is that if you are interested in a Rolex Datejust 41, make sure to do your homework and decide which particular variant is right for you.
The one I chose was actually the “poster model” that Rolex used to show off the Datejust 41 reference 126333 on its website and in various marketing materials throughout most of 2016. This particular Rolex Datejust 41 reference 126333 is 904L steel and 18k yellow gold with the fluted 18k yellow gold bezel and matching “champagne”-colored dial with easy-to-read baton-style hour markers. It also uses Rolex’s newest version of their popular Jubilee-style bracelet which makes use of many small links.
Two-tone “Rolesor” Rolex watches can be identified easily by the fact that they use steel and gold together. The crown is also in gold. The two dots below the Rolex logo on the crown indicate an Oyster case with a Twinlock water and dust protection system in the very sturdy screw-down crown assembly. In the future, Rolex will likely release all-steel variations of the Rolex Datejust II, but all-precious-metal options will not likely be available, as that is the domain of the more expensive Rolex Day-Date “President” that Rolex also released a new model of recently.
Back in 2013, I did a joint review of the Rolex Datejust II and Day-Date II watches here. It made sense to review both of them together at the time as both models share an extremely similar (if not mostly identical) 41mm-wide case and very similar movements. The main difference between the two models is that the Rolex Datejust only indicates the time and date, whereas the Day-Date indicates the date along with the day of the week.
In 2015, Rolex debuted the Day-Date 40 watch here. What was important was that this was an entirely new Rolex Day-Date watch from the ground up, which is ironic because if you look at modern Rolex Day-Date or Datejust models, you can easily mistake them at a glance for older ones. This isn’t exactly an accident, as Rolex is intentionally trying to continue a visual look and style which has become familiar to its wearers for decades. The Rolex Day-Date 40 boasted both a brand-new case and movement. The case was a millimeter smaller than the outgoing model’s, but with a much better shape and proportions. A year later, in 2016, Rolex followed suit with the Rolex Datejust 41, which maintained a 41mm-wide size but also enjoyed a very similar new case design with vastly improved proportions over the Rolex Datejust II.
In the Day-Date 40, Rolex debuted what is easily the most impressive mechanical movement it has made to date, which is the caliber 3255. This Rolex Datejust 41 also has a new movement which is extremely similar to the 3255, being the caliber 3235. It is difficult to explain all the ways that the 3235 is special because Rolex hasn’t reinvented the mechanical movement so much as it has reinvented how to produce in some volume extremely high-quality mechanical movements. What I mean by that is an intense effort in trying to extract as much performance as possible with the same type of architecture. It is like when a car maker releases a new engine that isn’t per se larger or that has more displacement, but is able to get more power by having its current system tweaked and refined.
The best way Rolex uses to describe the performance of the calibers 3255 and 3235 is by mentioning that timepieces containing these movements are “Superlative Chronometers.” While this statement has been used in connection to Rolex watches for a while, only recently has it begun to take on a more precise meaning. Rolex has a still relatively new and very strict in-house certification program for its movements. It promises performance of +2/-2 seconds per day for its watches, which is more than double the accuracy required by COSC Chronometer certification – performed separately outside of Rolex by the third-party company COSC.
Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer watches like the Datejust 41 are tested both in-house at Rolex and externally at COSC. I’ve mentioned at least a few times that this double certification is sort of redundant, but it does add to the high-end experience of owning a performance machine that is meant to last for a long time. Rolex also offers a five-year warranty on the movements – which is near the top of the industry standard.
Rolex caliber 3235 automatic movements operate at 4Hz with a roughly three-day power reserve (70 hours). In addition to including parts in the movement which represent Rolex’s finest work today, the movement also contains Rolex’s new “Chronergy” escapement system which helps the regulation system in the movement perform in a “superlative” manner. In day-to-day testing, I’ve had no problems with the movement, and find that it remains very accurate and reliable. My favorite part of the movement is how the date adjusts. Directly at midnight (and not slowly leading up to it), the date disc immediately and satisfyingly jumps to the next position. It is a beauty to behold (and super nerdy to discuss).
I think that the important takeaway message for consumers is that this isn’t just a standard automatic movement inside of a pretty watch, but it has been meticulously engineered to offer as much performance as possible in a movement that is designed for relatively mass-level production – something that Rolex is arguably the best in the industry at doing.
While the movement inside of a watch is very important, to be honest, I didn’t need to think too much about it while wearing the Rolex Datejust 41. Rolex doesn’t make the movement visible through the rear of the case, which in many ways makes the wearing experience more about what is on the outside, versus what is on the inside. I say all this because I do find that watches with and without exhibition caseback windows do make for different wearing experiences (not better or worse, just distinct). In the context of the Rolex Datejust 41, it allows me to focus a lot more on the design, as well as the club I am now a part of. That club being the many people before me and who currently wear Rolex Datejust watches.
I have a lot to say about the experience of being someone wearing a Rolex Datejust and what that makes me feel. In fact, I will spend the majority of this watch review discussing those elements, as I think it is central to the Rolex Datejust wearing experience. Allow me to explain. When I look at the Rolex Datejust on my wrist, sometimes I see the storied age of the design. This is a brand new watch, so why is it that I find it to look old?

It does help to recall that this is a design Rolex has been perpetuating since the 1950s. Even though the Datejust debuted in 1945, it was not until the next decade that Rolex modified the design of the Datejust more to its current form. That includes the distinctive hands, bezel design, and bracelets. This means that for over 60 years people around the world have become familiar with the core look of a Rolex Datejust 41. I will talk more about the Rolex Datejust in popular culture below, but suffice it to say that when you decide to wear a Rolex Datejust 41, you aren’t simply wearing a timepiece that becomes part of your personality. Rather, you are putting on an institution, and lending your personality to it.
This is an important distinction because, in my opinion, “you wear some watches” and at other times “the watch wears you.” If that sounds cheesy, then perhaps you have a better way of phrasing it. The idea I am trying to convey is that some watches are so recognizable, they have a personality independent of who is wearing them. Thus, if the watch is more famous than the person wearing it, it lends personality to its wearer in a way that a less distinguishable timepiece ever can. The Rolex Datejust has that power, and when you put it on, the perceptions people have of what the watch suddenly become part of your character – regardless of whether those traits apply to you.
The next logical question is “what is the character of a Rolex Datejust?” I’ll begin by saying that I don’t know if I can definitively answer that question because I think it depends on who you were asking. I grew up seeing the Rolex Datejust in one way, but someone around the world could have a totally different perspective on what type of people wear the watch. I will say that, oddly enough, you rarely see people who consider themselves watch collectors wearing a Rolex Datejust, which is a topic I am interested in exploring.
Why is it that watch enthusiasts and collectors rarely themselves wear Rolex Datejusts? The worst thing most of them have to say about Rolex Datejust watches is that they are “boring” or “the watch a grandfather wears.” Watch enthusiasts often see the Rolex Datejust as the luxury watch for the masses. It is what you wear if your collection of timepieces is small or consists of just a few items to help your sense or style or external communication of success. So much of the mystique about the Rolex Datejust is in being an overt luxury item as opposed to a representation of horology.

Posted on

Rolex Yacht-Master Watches

The Rolex Yacht-Master II is a sport watch made by Rolex, unveiled in 2007 and first introduced in March 2010 with the models 116688 and 116689. One year later, in 2011, Rolex introduced the model 116681 which was made from steel and everose gold. At Baselworld 2013, the watch was available for the first time in 904L steel, the model 116680, fitted with a Cerachrom bezel insert in blue ceramic. Originally, the Yacht-Master II used Rolex’s 4160 movement but with the introduction of the model 116680 in 2013, the movement was updated to the 4161 movement specifically designed for the Yacht-Master II. All Yacht-Master II watches have a case size of 44mm. Many Rolex watches are available with the now-legendary combination of yellow, white or Everose gold and steel known as Rolesor, but Rolesium is a creation specific to the Yacht-Master. While the case and bracelet are in rugged Oystersteel, the bezel of the Rolesium versions is made of 950 platinum, imparting a silvery whiteness and vibrant luminosity for an unmistakable sense of luxury.
Rolex Yacht-Master – The Regatta Watch Discover the Yacht-Master and the Yacht-Master II, the watches that embody the spirit of the yachting and are inspired by the world of sailing. Rolex S.A respects your right to privacy and is committed to maintaining your confidence and trust. the details you provide through this website will not be used to send unsolicited email, and will not be sold to a third party.
The Rolex Yacht Master is a sports watch which was first introduced in 1992. Now, as you might be aware that Rolex very rarely introduces the all-new model, so the last Rolex model which was introduced before the Yacht Master was the model named Daytona which was released in 1964, thus we can see that the Rolex took about 28 years to introduce us with Rolex new model.
The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 in 18 ct white gold with an Oysterflex bracelet. This model features a bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel with a matt black Cerachrom insert in ceramic, as well as polished raised numerals and graduations, perfectly complementing its black dial.
Rolex has built a reputation on their classic and timeless designs. They’re not one to release a new model every other year. In fact, after the launch of the Daytona in 1963, it would be nearly another 30 years before they’d debut an entirely new model. That model was the Rolex Yacht-Master. Here, we’ll provide a Rolex Yacht-Master review, including key features of the Rolex Yacht-Master, the history of the Rolex Yacht-Master through the years, and notable wearers.
The very first Rolex Yacht-Master was the Reference 16628. The brand only offered the model in a 40mm, 18-karat yellow gold case with a white dial. The Ref. 16628 also came equipped with a screw-down, Triplock crown and boasted 100 meters of water resistance. Inside, it housed the Caliber 3135 movement.

For the first several years, Rolex only made minor changes to the Yacht-Master line. In 1994, they released a slightly different iteration of the Yacht-Master: the Reference 68628. This variation was smaller, with a 35mm case. That same year, they also added a women’s version of the Yacht-Master: the Reference 69628. It showcased an even more modest case size, measuring just 29mm.

In 1999, Rolex introduced the first major update to the Yacht-Master collection. That year, they debuted an all-new, patented combination of metals created specifically for the Yacht-Master. They called this two-tone combination of stainless steel and platinum, Rolesium. At the annual Basel World Fair, Rolex launched the material in three different sizes. These included the 40mm Reference 16622, 35mm Reference 168622, and the 29mm Reference 169622.

The next update to the Rolex Yacht-Master collection came in 2005. That year, Rolex added another two-tone variation to the line, this time in stainless steel and 18-karat yellow gold. They offered the new colorway in the 40mm Reference 16623. Two years later, Rolex made the most significant change to the Yacht-Master line with the addition of the Yacht-Master II. However, the lineage of the original Yacht-Master has continued.
In 2012, Rolex released the next notable upgrade for the Yacht-Master with the Reference 116622. While the model retained its 40mm sizing, it featured an all-new “super case” with different styling. In addition, it boasted an all-platinum bezel as opposed to a combination of platinum and stainless steel. Last but not least, it came equipped with a refined version of the Oyster bracelet featuring an upgraded clasp.

Three years later, Rolex debuted another first for the brand in the Yacht-Master collection’s Reference 116655. This time, instead of a new metal, they introduced their own rigorously designed and tested variation of the rubber strap. The Oysterflex bracelet marked the first-ever rubber strap for the brand. Ever since, it’s become a staple of the Yacht-Master collection.

In the past several years, Rolex has continued to make subtle updated and additions to the Yacht-Master line. One of the latest releases is the Yacht-Master 40 with a multi-color, gem-set bezel. More recently in 2019, Rolex introduced the first 42mm time-and-date Yacht Master Reference 226659.
The Yacht-Master is a popular choice among many of today’s top entertainers, athletes, and chefs. Some of the Yacht-Master’s famous wearers include TV personality Ellen DeGeneres and film icons like Brad Pitt and Bruce Willis. Athletes across an array of modalities also appreciate the Yacht-Master. You can find it on the wrist of star players like former pro-footballer David Beckham, Atlanta Falcons quarterback Matt Ryan, and former World Number One golfer Justin Thomas. Last but certainly not least, the legendary chef Emeril Lagasse is among the Yacht-Master’s celebrity fans.

Posted on

replica rolex submariner green

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner is a line of sports watches designed for diving and manufactured by Rolex, and are known for their resistance to water and corrosion. The first Submariner was introduced to the public in 1954 at the Basel Watch Fair. The Rolex Submariner is considered “a classic among wristwatches”, manufactured by one of the most widely recognized luxury brands in the world. Due to its huge popularity, there are many homage watches by well-established watchmakers, as well as illegal counterfeits. The Replica Rolex Submariner Green is part of Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual line.
Kermit and Hulk: The Green Submariners. The Submariner diving watch is one of Rolex’s most popular timepieces. The two models with green components, known among fans as “Kermit” and “Hulk,” are especially desirable collector’s items that are likely to continue increasing in value.
The Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date in Oystersteel with a Cerachrom bezel insert in green ceramic and a black dial with large luminescent hour markers. It features a unidirectional rotatable bezel and solid-link Oyster bracelet. The latest generation Submariner and Submariner Date remain faithful to the original model launched in 1953.
About Rolex Green Submariner Watches. The green Rolex Submariner is a nice choice for any collection. To view additional models visit our full section by visiting our used Rolex Submariner for sale page.
The Inaugural Green Sub. The very first green Rolex Submariner was released in Baselworld 2003 to celebrate the Submariner’s 50 th anniversary. Rolex made small but significant tweaks to the classic steel Submariner to create this model – the most defining feature being its green aluminum bezel.
The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee. This exclusive designation attests that it has successfully undergone a series of specific final controls by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, in addition to the official COSC certification of its movement.
The first watch blends a black dial with a green bezel, while the second proposes a black dial and a blue bezel. The anti-reflective coating applied to the back of the sapphire crystal on the new generation Submariner and Submariner Date ensures optimal legibility of the dial.
For the Rolex Submariner 126610LV, however, the brand takes on a far more serious and restrained character. The green bezel here is a deep, desaturated, forest green hue, with a much wider and more substantial presence when viewed from above.
Your Rolex Green Dial Submariner should have its second hand running smoothly as it rotates around the face. If you see it jerking with its tick, then it’s probably a fake. This is because the movement of the Rolex comes in high precision as it is broken down into 8 micro-ticks per second. This makes it look like a continuous motion.
The Rolex Submariner, introduced in 1953, is the standard among diving watches, and the first watch to withstand depths of 300 meters (1,000 feet). The waterproof winding Triplex crown with interior O ring makes it a triple waterproof system. The Submariner was designed for corrosion resistance and is a highly durable diving watch.
The Rolex Submariner became popular amongst regular people with regular desk jobs instead of just a divers tool, fortunately. Because this was also the time when diving computers and better diving equipment became available.
The green seal accompanying every Rolex watch is a symbol of its status as a Superlative Chronometer. This exclusive designation attests that it has successfully undergone a series of specific final controls by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, in addition to the official COSC certification of its movement.
Yes, the Rolex probably has the more technologically advanced components, but Tudor is not far behind in performance. Both possess a GMT function with date, both are COSC-certified chronometers, and both have 70 hour power reserves.
The entry-level Breitling watches use Quartz movement, which is cost-effective and battery-powered. So, when determining price, this is a big factor in why Rolex is more expensive than Breitling…they only use high-end, high-precision mechanical calibers.