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U-Boat Darkmoon

The U-Boat Darkmoon collection was officially announced in November 2018. They just released the second iteration of this concept called Darkmoon. This new line takes on a more minimalist approach with a lower entry price, but looking at it, we can’t help thinking about other oily timepieces – because in the watch industry, there is nothing new under the sun, or moon for that matter (watch brands love the moon, especially the dark side for some reason).

Back in 2013, KeepTheTime introduced the liquid-filled Ressence Type 3 at Baselworld. It turns out the the “liquid” was… oil. The Type 3 received mixed reactions from the community, but mostly because of its $30,000 USD price tag. The high retail meant that our video was the closest most watch enthusiasts would get to seeing one in action.
“CAPSOIL goes beyond the boundaries of traditional design, combining innovative features with retro-style lines. The oily liquid flows into the dial making it an absolute and deep black that surprisingly amplifies view of the hands that seem to flow free as in the absence of the glass.” -U-Boat

Although both are oil-filled watches that look futuristic and cool, they cannot be compared from an engineering and design standpoint. The big difference between the Capsoil and the Type 3 (and Type 5) is that the Ressence is a mechanical watch, and the Darkmoon is powered by a $16.95 Swiss quartz movement.
Above is a photo from Amazon of the battery-powered movement visible through an exhibition style caseback. Although, it appears that U-Boat listened to criticism about it being a quartz watch and newer models have a solid caseback with no running seconds hand (making it less obvious that it’s a quartz watch).

The movement is a 2-handed Ronda caliber 712 with a battery life of about 60 months. The dials of the Capsoil/Darkmoon models have red text that reads: Working Between 0/+60 degrees Celsius. Interestingly, the Ronda tech sheets list the operating temperature of the 712 to be 0-50 C.
A quartz movement makes sense, because a mechanical watch will not operate when fully submerged in oil. Ressence was able to overcome this obstacle by inventing a dual-chamber case with oil injected into the upper half and air at the bottom where the movement is housed.

The innovation didn’t stop there. When it launched, the Ressence Type 3’s claim to fame was that it was a crownless watch which is wound and set by rotating the bottom (air-filled) half of the case. The U-Boat Darkmoon isn’t crownless, but they did make it a destro piece by moving the slim crown to the left of the case.
We know from performing DIY oil-filled mods that it is possible to achieve results without an air bubble, but it takes extra time and precision. U-Boat says they intentionally left a bubble of air under the crystal so that the oil can be seen floating around. Perhaps production scalability was part of their decision to leave the bubble, or maybe it’s because the bubble is evidence that there really is oil inside.
The bubble does play well with the no-bezel curved crystal (another element that feels similar to the Ressence), but it’s kind of like having an inverted cyclops from a Panerai floating around under the crystal. Some will really like it, and others will be annoyed at the idea of having a spirit level strapped to the wrist.
The original Capsoil pieces have a door at 3:00 on the case that says Unscrew to Fill Up. It is yet to be seen whether the bubble will get bigger or smaller over time, and how “filling up” will affect it. What we do know is that your local watchmaker most likely won’t want to touch this watch when you drop it off for a new battery, so prepare yourself to hear that it has to go back to U-Boat for service.

Either way, we like how U-Boat Darkmoon has incorporated the bubble into their marketing identity for the Capsoil and Darkmoon lines.
The oil-filled collection is available in a 44mm 2 hand model or a 45mm chronograph. None of the models have a date. They ship out on a 22mm lug-width vulcanised rubber strap with U-BOAT CAPSOIL text. The black dials feature “Old Radium” Super-LumiNova lume on the hands and markers.
The case can be in steel or black DLC. Although it was mentioned above that prices start at $980, that is for the steel DARKMOON model (ref: 8463) with a mineral crystal and 50m water resistance. As a comparison, the DLC chrono (ref: 8109/B) is priced at $2,290 USD with sapphire and a 100m water rating.

Overall, the Darkmoon looks like a fun watch for around $1k and worth checking out. Explore the Capsoil collection here and the new Darkmoon watches here.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver

As of this year, the dive-specific Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver is celebrating its sweet sixteenth with a newly updated reference. It spans three new colorways and represents the biggest evolution for the ROO Diver – ROOD? – since the model graduated from being the Offshore Scuba (which originally launched in 2005) to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver. The new 2021 models are rocking a more modern movement, tool-less push-button strap changing, and several small but noteworthy design tweaks.
To tackle the elephant in the room, no, the size has not changed. The new reference 15720ST retains the 42mm sizing of the standard Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver, along with its uncommon two-crown layout, display caseback, 300 meters of water resistance, and a time/date feature set.
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Available from launch in “Trailblazing Khaki,” “Navy Blue,” and “Pristine Grey,” each version has a steel case and comes with a second strap so owners can try the new quick-change system right out of the box. The system is fully integrated into the back of the two short intermediate lugs used to match the strap to the case. Simply press the button and release the strap (see the above photo).

Audemars Piguet plans to offer a range of straps and, alongside the pair that comes with the watch, the brand already has a trio of calfskin leather straps that conform to the new swappable design.
Inside, and forming one of the more major elements of this update, we find Audemars Piguet’s modern caliber 4308, a beautifully finished automatic movement with central seconds, a date display, a rate of 4 Hz, and a power reserve of 60 hours. Visible through the Royal Oak Offshore Diver’s display caseback, the 4308 also featured a black-finished 22k pink gold winding rotor.
Other updates include changes to the dial, including new markers and an “AP” signature (in gold) rather than the full brand name common to previous iterations of the ROO Diver.
As an exercise in evolving an already successful and qualified design, the new 15720ST looks like a subtle and thoughtful take on the Royal Oak Offshore Diver form. The original black-dial model that was announced in 2010 has long been a dream watch for me, and these new versions look every bit as appealing, especially given the interesting colorways (Pristine Grey for me, please) and the interchangeable straps.

Any of the three can be yours as early as May assuming you’ve got $25,400 and a good friend at the boutique. But please – pretty please – just promise me that if you get one, you’ll also take it for a swim every once in a while. After all

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The Longines Master

Established in the year 1832, the world renowned and most successful watch brand, the Longines has continued to advance and achieve the admiration of watch lovers from all across the world. By debuting the Longines Master Collection, the timeless watch assortment, the brand has once again claimed that it is second to none in the luxury watch manufacturing.

The elegant Longines Master collection watches drive the inspiration from past achievements and performances of the brand. Debuted in the year 2005, the Longines Master Collection timepieces skillfully fit the wrists of men as well as women watch enthusiasts.
Exuding the excellence in its designs and functions, the Longines watch brand is a highly acclaimed one. Holding a long legacy and expertise in the watch manufacturing the brand has been home to the number of iconic timepieces. The uniqueness in its timepieces incredible sophistication is all something that has distinguished the Longines from the rest of the watch brands. Incepted in the year 1832 in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, by Auguste Agassiz, the Longines stands out for its exceptional precisions, mechanics and the elegant design elements. And, indeed, Longines is one of the most sought after brands in the world.

Acknowledged for its widely popular and varied watch collections, the Longines once again claimed for the success with a debut of Longines Master collection. Released in the year 2005, the Longines Master Collection stands firm to the brand’s traditions of watch manufacturing. Well, it not just the quality of timepieces which wearers appreciate for, but even its design aesthetics are no far behind. These Longines watches from the Master Collection efficiently fulfil the desires of coveted watch lovers who desire for reliability and elegance both in a single timepiece.

Furthermore, the Longines Master Collection is believed to honour past accomplishments and performances of the brand. The popular Weems series of timepieces from the 1920s have inspired the current Master collection watches. Thus inspiration ruled out to the creation very amazing and stunning timepieces manufactured using stainless steel.

However, the Master Collection has been augmented with a number of different material watches, being available in 18-karat yellow gold and rose gold. Apart from this, the Longines Master men’s watches are so ingenious and proficient in their performance that looking at them any viewer would easily get fascinated to don them. Initially, the Longines Master Collection watches were only created for the male crowd. But looking to their increased popularity the collection has been expanded and even the elegant watches for women have been appended to the assortment. Extravagant materials used in combination with various enchanting colour hues and complex technicalities, including an admirable moon phase display all the main highlights of Longines Master women’s watches.

Ever since its launch, the Longines Master collection has been an acclaimed and much-celebrated one. Its launch was a huge success for the brand. The achievements conquered by the Longines has been possible due to its great efforts towards delivering quality in its watches. At the same time, the brand aspired to incorporate modern sophistication in its design aesthetics which is evidently visible from Longines Master collection. Along with this the Longines watches from Master Collection also embody the traditional values of a brand’s watchmaking.

However, in order to cater to the demands of a wide range of watch lovers, the Longines Master collection watches are available in 38.5, 40, 42, 44 or 47.5-mm case sizes. Also, the Longines Master collection is available with ten different calibres, being differentiated on the basis of manual and automatic winding mechanisms. Surprisingly, utilising the idea of diversity the Longines Master watches are available in various material configurations. Even their watch cases have been crafted using stainless steel, rose gold, or yellow gold material.

Moreover, the presence of transparent case backs will allow you to closely admire the sophistication of movements powering these watches. Complementing the watch case, the bracelets of these Longines dress watches are available in sleek stainless steel, classic yellow gold, or elegant rose gold. And if you want to add modern charm to your watch then it can also be adorned with a brown leather strap. Although, either it’s metallic or leather strap, the bracelets of Master collection watch would probably deliver you the utmost comfort and ease.

The Master Collection men’s watches
The most prominent models from the Longines Master collection include Longines Chronograph with a with a moon phase display (Ref. L2.673.4.78.3). This Longines Moonphase watch comes in a robust stainless steel case, featuring a circular shape and a 40 mm size. Moreover, these timepieces possess the capability of being water resistive up to 3 bars of pressure. While moving on to the technicalities of Longines Master Collection Moonphase watches, the timepieces are powered by a self-winding chronograph movement L678. And are endowed with an exceptional power reserve of 48 hours. Additionally, a superior-quality, scratch defiant, sapphire crystal takes care of the precise movement inside the watch. Featuring a silver coloured dial with a unique barley corn motifs tempted by an enamelled Arabic numerals the watch exhibits a very distinctive look. Some other notable Longines men’s watch models from this collection include: (Ref. L2.628.4.78.6), this Longines Master Mechanical Steel Silver Dial watch beats to the speed of a self-winding mechanical movement – calibre L619. Another prominent model is the classic men’s watch. Encased in a 44mm stainless steel watch case, fitted with durable alligator strap this watch looks very refined and modish in its design aesthetics.

Hence, all of the aforementioned Longines Master Collection timepieces display a timeless finesse in their characteristics. No matter what you choose, whether a moon phase, an automatic or a mechanical all the timepieces from Longines Master collection will surely steal the attention of onlookers from the crowd.

The Heritage collection from Longines has allowed a whole new generation of watch lovers to become acquainted with a number the brand’s classic designs from the middle part of the 20th century – of which, unsurprisingly, there are many. Several of these revivals have been bona fide hits: the Longines Military Watch, the Legend Diver, and the recently reviewed Heritage Classic “Sector” all come to mind. But there is another Longines collection that references timeless watchmaking codes without making specific nods to watches from the company’s archives.

Launched in 2005, the Master Collection, an example of which we are going Hands-On with today, offers a take on traditional watch designs whose inspiration appears to come mostly from the last century. Specifically, we’re looking at one that features an analog display with moonphase indicator and date: the Longines Master 40mm Moonphase Automatic.

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Replica Rolex Datejust 31 Watch Replica Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Watch 116519-0038

Replica Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Watch 116519-0038
Meteorite comes from the heart of an asteroid or possibly even a planet that has exploded, propelling material across the Solar System until chance brings it into our planet’s orbit and gravity pulls it to Earth. During its journey, the centre of the meteorite is gradually transformed, producing highly unusual metallic patterns, resulting from the very slow cooling of molten asteroid cores. The designers at Rolex create from these configurations a unique treasure for some of the most prestigious models, including this Cosmograph Daytona.
A key part of the model’s identity is the bezel moulded with a tachymetric scale for measuring average speeds of up to 400 miles or kilometres per hour. Blending of high technology with sleek aesthetics, the black bezel is reminiscent of the 1965 model that was fitted with a black Plexiglas bezel insert.

The monobloc Cerachrom bezel in high-tech ceramic offers a number of advantages: it is corrosion resistant, virtually scratchproof and the colour is unaffected by UV rays. This extremely durable bezel also offers an exceptionally legible tachymetric scale, thanks to the deposition of a thin layer of platinum in the numerals and graduation via a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) process. The monobloc Cerachrom bezel is made in a single piece and holds the crystal firmly in place on the middle case, ensuring waterproofness.
By operating its own exclusive foundry, Replica Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Watch 116519-0038 has the unrivalled ability to cast the highest quality 18 ct gold alloys. According to the proportion of silver, copper, platinum or palladium added, different types of 18 ct gold are obtained: yellow, pink or white. They are made with only the purest metals and meticulously inspected in an in-house laboratory with state-of-the-art equipment, before the gold is formed and shaped with the same painstaking attention to quality. Rolex’s commitment to excellence begins at the source.
All Rolex watches are assembled by hand with the utmost care to ensure exceptional quality. Such high standards naturally restrict Rolex production capacity and, at times, the demand for Rolex watches outpaces this capacity.

Therefore, the availability of certain models may be limited. New Rolex watches are exclusively sold by Official Rolex Retailers, who receive regular deliveries and independently manage the allocation and sales of watches to customers.

Kee Hing Hung is proud to be part of the worldwide network of Official Rolex Retailers and can provide information on the availability of Rolex watches.
Synonymous with excellence and reliability, Replica Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Watch 116519-0038 are designed for everyday wear, and depending on the model, perfectly suited for a wide range of sports and other activities. Built to last, these timepieces are characterized by their distinctive and timeless esthetics. The Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona is designed for those with a passion for driving and speed. Learn more about its features and how to set the time and use the chronograph functions by watching the video.
Launched in 1963, the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona was designed to meet the needs of professional racing drivers. This year, Rolex presents exclusive versions of its Cosmograph Daytona, the benchmark for those with a passion for driving and speed. They feature a dial made from metallic meteorite – a rare natural material from outer space – with black chronograph counters at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon

Most time-only watches aren’t that difficult to make. But most time-only watches aren’t Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon.

On Monday, the Swiss watchmaker unveiled six new editions of its Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon watches (five in 18k white gold cases and a sixth in 18k pink gold), each set with an array of gemstones. Each of the 38.5 mm watches runs on a hand-wound movement, AP’s calibre 2951, which offers a minimum power reserve of 77 hours. The new watches are water-resistant up to 20 meters—not that you’d go swimming in anything this intricate—and feature glare-proof sapphire crystals and case backs. All of the models have crowns set with translucent sapphire cabochon gemstones. They’re available with two strap options: a “large square-scale” blue alligator strap, while the other is a blue rubber strap with a “constellation” decoration that looks like tone-on-tone pixels.
That’s where the similiarities end. The cases, bezels, dials and buckles are variously set with hundreds of painstakingly selected diamonds, sapphires and other colored gems. Even the tourbillons are decorated with 9 brilliant-cut sapphires or diamonds—not something easy to achieve with a lightweight and important timekeeping component. Every jewel adorning the new watches was individually cut and polished to form a specific shape; then later set in gold by the hand of an expert jeweler to enhance the watch’s unique pyramidal dial accents and to catch the light.
Models from the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon series.

The new series includes two rainbow watches that showcase up to 12 types of colored gemstones: They’re decorated with rubies, tsavorites, emeralds, topaz, tanzanites, amethysts and an array of colored sapphires. One model combines a diamond-set case and dial with a bezel set with baguette-cut gems in rainbow colors, the other colorful piece has been entirely set with brilliant-cut multicolored gemstones.

Two other watches—in white and pink gold—come covered in a whopping 208 baguette-cut blue sapphires selected and set to form a gradient effect. The sapphires were cut in 144 sizes to match the curves of the Royal Oak Concept case and the architecture of the dial. Tiny grooves were then delicately incised into the stones and meticulously snapped one by one onto a hidden rail mounted in each piece’s gold component. Audemars Piguet says the invisible gem setting can take up to 150 hours of work to complete.

Both of those blue-hued Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon will be available in select Audemars Piguet retailers next year. The other four watches with brilliant-cut gemstones will be available in select locations for this October. Visit the Audemars Piguet website for more information.
Audemars Piguet is known for developing fashionable luxury timepieces. Raising the bar for gem setting, the Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer has just unveiled a small series of six new Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon models in 18-karat white and pink gold on 38.5-mm cases with an array of graded colored gemstones and diamonds.

Brilliant- or baguette-cut gemstones are to be expected, with four models making the most of graded blue sapphires, while two of them check the rainbow box that most luxury (and fashion) watch manufacturers have made a covetable piece, with gems that include rubies, tsavorites, emeralds, topaz, tanzanites and amethysts.

The open-worked timepieces are powered by a 225-part hand-wound manufacture caliber 2951, which has a 77-hour power reserve, flying tourbillon and power reserve indicator.
The four pieces set with brilliant-cut gemstones will be available in select Audemars Piguet points of sale beginning this month with the two baguette-cut versions arriving in 2022. Pricing is available upon request.

Previous drops of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon unveiled earlier this year included a Black Panther-themed watch with a black and purple color scheme, the brand’s first piece to result from its new partnership with Marvel.

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Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph 43mm review

One of my first encounters with Ulysse Nardin was in 1999, when Gerard showed me his Ulysse Nardin GMT ± Perpetual watch. He wrote about it recently in detail, on Christmas day (find it here). At the time, Gerard’s watch shop in The Hague was official retailer for Ulysse Nardin, so once in a while when I visited his store (more often than he probably liked) I had the opportunity to have a closer look at these watches.

At some point, when he didn’t carry Ulysse Nardin anymore in his shop, I didn’t come across them much. Until I started to write about watches on this website. Somehow I lost interest in the brand, especially when the brand from Le Locle came up with things like this Chairman phone. That’s right, a phone.

However, since a few years it seems that Ulysse Nardin re-invented themselves and has a strong focus on their watches again. Last year they were at SIHH for the first time and I have to say I was impressed by their collection of watches. Their tourbillon, priced at CHF 28,000.-, is a good example. However, today I have a closer look at one of their more affordable pieces and a more useful complication as well, the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph.
.One of the Ulysse Nardin watches that spoke most to me during the SIHH in 2017, was this Marine Chronograph. I have a weak spot for chronographs and the annual calendar is an awesome bonus. Just like the perpetual calendar of the Ulysse Nardin GMT ± I mentioned above, this model also has a backward/forward adjustment of the months. This feature is awesome, as you don’t have to worry anymore that you mess up the calendar setting. In the worst case, with other annual and perpetual calendar watches, you either have to wait until the actual date reaches the date on the watch, but if you – by accident – advanced the calendar months in advance, you need to return it to a watchmaker to have it corrected. We all know how long that can take with some manufactures, sometimes almost as long as when you just wait for the correct month yourself. Anyway, no need for this hassle with Ulysse Nardin’s annual calendar of their Marine Chronograph.

For those who don’t know, an annual calendar only needs a correction on March 1st while a perpetual calendar also will have that done automatically as it is mechanically programmed for a couple of centuries. You don’t need to worry about the other months, whether they have 30 or 31 days. It is all sorted out. A great complication for those who fancy a date on their watch. Besides that, the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph also has a month indicator in the sub dial at 9 o’clock.
The chronograph and annual calendar are functions of the Ulysse Nardin UN-153 movement. This in-house developed movement uses the invention by Ludwig Oechselin (a portrait on this genius watchmaker can be found here), that enables the owner to advance and reverse the annual calendar. I talked about that above. Interesting enough, the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph reference 1533-150-3/40 has three sub registers, while this version (reference 1533-150/E0) only has two, using the same movement. They dropped the hour recorder at 6 o’clock and to be honest, the watch looks a lot cleaner this way.
The chronograph uses a column-wheel and the annual calendar is basically a module. The caliber UN-153 movement ticks at 28800vph (4 hz) and has 53 jewels. A high number of jewels, like this, often refers to the use of an extra module (for the annual calendar, in this case). A sapphire case back enables you to enjoy this caliber to the fullest. The blue and marine themes comes back on the rotor, with the anchors and anchor UN logo (in enamel) on the weight mass. A nicely finished movement, using perlage and striping techniques and quite a number of blue screws is a feast for the eyes.
The dial (resembling the marine chronometers that were used on ships) of the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph really stands out in my opinion. The off-white dial and the blue Roman numerals. minute track and printing gives a beautiful contrast. Printed between the ‘V’ and ‘VI’ you will find the wording ‘Grand Feu’, indicating that this technique was used to manufacture the enamel dial. This is being done at Donzé Cadrans S.A. a company that belongs to Ulysse Nardin since 2011.
On the dial you will find 6 hands, indicating time, elapsed time and for the month. On the 6 o’clock position there’s a round date aperture, using a small lens to magnify the date disc. Although the dial has a lot of information and ‘tracks’, it is not that cluttered in my opinion. You will find two elements carrying the red color as well. There’s the indication (in red) of the company’s founding year, 1846, and the small triangular shaped hand as month indicator. It brings the dial somewhat more to life even though these are just very tiny elements. The use of blue can also be found on the crown and pushers as well as the alligator strap.
The Marine collection from Ulysse Nardin is not uniform when it comes to case design. Sure you will find the ribbed bezel on these models, but not all models have the typical lugs that this Marine Chronograph has. Somehow they remind me a bit of the lugs of the IWC Da Vinci of the 1980’s, but more masculine looking. It is more like a one solid big lug instead of two lugs. The case shape in general is quite impressive. So is the size, of 43mm. Both polished and brushed surfaces on the case make it a very interesting watch to observe. Last but not least, the ribbed bezel and blue pushers and crown give the watch a somewhat sporty (or marine) appearance. The Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph reference 1533-150/E0 is uniquely numbered with a special small engraved plate attached to the case band. The case back is screwed on the case with six small screws. Also, the alligator strap is attached to the case with large screws.
Although a CHF28,000 Marine Tourbillon is quite sharply priced for this complication, a Ulysse Nardin watch does not come cheap. Nor should it. The level of finish is very nice and the number of details make the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer a watch that will not bore you anytime soon. The in-house chronograph movement, including the annual calendar with backward/forward setting, is a pretty piece of technology and the off-white Grand Feu dial makes it a complete package of impressiveness. The retail price of this Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph is CHF14,800.-.

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Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon 43mm

When it was originally conceived, the Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon 43mm was a technical solution to a specific problem — the impact of gravity on the accuracy of a pocket watch’s movement. These days the whirling cage of finely finished metal represents something else. For brands, it’s a bravura statement of prowess. For watch lovers, it’s typically the crowning piece in a collection, the finest point in fine watchmaking.
If we’re honest, the appeal of the tourbillon is only partially due to an appreciation of the watchmaker’s art. There’s also an element of conspicuous consumption to wearing a tourbillon. Dress it up however you like — wearing a watch with a dial-facing tourbillon is a pretty powerful statement. Dig a little deeper into the complication and you’ll discover that not all tourbillons are created equal. TAG Heuer’s vaunted $20k Heuer-02T is CNC printed, and many other brands rely on outsourced, third-party movements.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon 43mm avoids these pitfalls and manages to offer one of the most compelling value propositions of 2017. Before we get to the movement, let’s talk about the watch as a whole. The 43mm steel case has modern touches, like the angular, integrated lugs, squared-off crown guard and rubber inset crown. These elements balance out the very traditional aspects, like the deck watch style dial with large printed Roman numerals and railroad chapter ring. The tourbillon is neatly balanced by the power reserve indicator, and the whole ensemble looks stunning thanks to the Grand Feu dial, printed at UN’s own Donzé Cadrans enamel facility. I really love the dial on this watch. It adds a real old world elegance to the watch.
The movement, however, is far from old-fashioned. The calibre UN-128 is completely new and made entirely by Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon 43mm, right down to the springs. The flying tourbillon uses a silicium escapement and spring. It beats at 4Hz and has a respectable 60 hours of power reserve. The tourbillon is beautifully finished, with hand-finishing aplenty. And while the caseback is less spectacular than the front, the same level of care is evident.
Beyond all this, the really outstanding feature of the Marine Tourbillon is the price. Coming in at a shade above $40k, I can’t think of any comparable products that offer quite the same combination of versatile design, high complication, refined dial and impressive in-house tech. It’s a bold move for Ulysse Nardin, and, I suspect, a winning one.

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Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur 42mm

The new Chronometry Collection from Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur 42mm looks back to the brand’s history as it turns 175, and a lot of that history is bound up in ship’s chronometers. But UN has also grown and evolved in more recent years. The company was a real pioneer in the use of silicon, and its UN-118 movement, with silicon hairspring and escape wheel and anchor in Diamonsil, are testament to this more recent past. In 2011, Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur 42mm bought dialmaker Donzé Cadrans, bringing old-fashioned in-house enamel dial-making into its quiver, and making fine blue enamel dials like the one in this 175-piece limited edition possible.

What we have in this watch is a look that will be plenty familiar to those who know Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur 42mm. Modeled after ships’ chronometers, the display is large and legible, with the hours and minutes emanating from the central axis and the seconds occupying a large sub-dial at six o’clock with a window for the date toward the bottom. The indicator for displaying the power reserve (60 hours) is up at the 12 o’clock position to balance it out and provide a symmetrical look. It’s a classic, 42mm watch that bridges a sport and dressy look with plenty of maritime vibes, as we’ve come to expect from UN.
Donzé makes enamel dials of extremely high quality the old-fashioned way, in old-school ovens, and has done so for several of the biggest names in watchmaking. The blue dial in this watch may not be an intricate cloisonné example depicting a design or a scene, but it has a depth to it that looks really wonderful in the supplied pictures from the brand. Combining such dials with a movement that is composed of silicon parts seems to me to be a very Ulysse Nardin way to go about watchmaking.

While I expect that having the date window probably made the process of producing these dials more difficult and contributed to a higher failure rate, I think this is one design that would be better off sans date window. The dial itself is fairly ornate to begin with. Enamel dials kind of have to be seen in person to be appreciated, and Donzé is known for making some really nice ones.

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Ulysse Nardin Torpilleur Annual Chronograph 44mm

With its rich ties to the sea, Ulysse Nardin Torpilleur Annual Chronograph 44mm dedicates a portion of its collection to luxury timepieces with nautical and marine inspiration. As part of the marine collection, Ulysse Nardin is proud to announce the release of the new Torpilleur Annual Chronograph. The Ulysse Nardin Torpilleur Annual Chronograph 44mm features a formal design based around the 44mm stainless-steel case. The elegant dark blue dial contrasts with bronze indicators incorporated into the sub-dials, which provide month and 30-second functions. Paying homage to the historic horology, Ulysse Nardin proudly displays its 1846 start on the dial above the 6 o’clock position. Driving power to the new marine-inspired timepiece by Ulysse Nardin features an in-house UN-153 self-winding movement, which provides an impressive 50-hour power reserve and 50-meter water resistance. The Torpilleur Annual Chronograph is equipped with a choice of a blue or brown genuine leather strap and stainless steel buckle. The new Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Annual Chronograph is limited to only 300 pieces and is now available through an authorized retailer for $12,100. Shop the new Ulysse Nardin, as well as all its luxury timepiece collections by clicking the link below.
With its rich ties to the sea, Ulysse Nardin dedicates a portion of its collection to luxury timepieces with nautical and marine inspiration. As part of the marine collection, Ulysse Nardin is proud to announce the release of the new Ulysse Nardin Torpilleur Annual Chronograph 44mm. The Torpilleur Annual Chronograph features a formal design based around the 44mm stainless-steel case. The elegant dark blue dial contrasts with bronze indicators incorporated into the sub-dials, which provide month and 30-second functions. Paying homage to the historic horology, Ulysse Nardin proudly displays its 1846 start on the dial above the 6 o’clock position. Driving power to the new marine-inspired timepiece by Ulysse Nardin features an in-house UN-153 self-winding movement, which provides an impressive 50-hour power reserve and 50-meter water resistance. The Torpilleur Annual Chronograph is equipped with a choice of a blue or brown genuine leather strap and stainless steel buckle. The new Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Annual Chronograph is limited to only 300 pieces and is now available through an authorized retailer for $12,100. Shop the new Ulysse Nardin, as well as all its luxury timepiece collections by clicking the link below.

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Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF

With Geneva Watch Days officially kicking off tomorrow, Parmigiani Fleurier has fired the starting pistol by unveiling a refresh of its Tonda collection, just in time for the company’s 25-year anniversary.

In 1996, Michel Parmigiani – a world-renowned restorationist and dedicated supporter of Fleurisian watchmaking – founded his namesake firm with the financial support of the affluent Sandoz family, who Michel had already been working with, in his capacity as a restorationist. For 25 years, Parmigiani Fleuer has operated in a silo of Swiss watchmaking, producing some of the most intricate and detailed watches under its own name, while also growing its operation in scope and scale to include an array of smaller in-house factories that produce everything from hairsprings (Atokalpa) and screws (Elwin) to cases (Les Artisans Boîtiers) and dials (Quadrance & Habillage).
With the help of these facilities, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF has created over 30 in-house movements in 25 years – an incredible pace for what first appears to be a small-time player in the watch industry. But that’s what makes the company one of the watch world’s true hidden gems – not only does Atokalpa create hairsprings for Parmigiani Fleurier timepieces, but also for any Swiss watch brand that seeks a higher-end alternative to the hegemony of ETA and Sellita.

As a result of Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF dedication to its founder’s individual perspective and worldview, many of its watches have remained under the radar, skipping mainstream success for true indie charm. But after 25 years, Parmigiani Fleurier is looking to go bigger and bolder. The company hired away the Head of Watches at Bulgari, Guido Terreni – one of the masterminds behind the Octo Finissimo – to be its new CEO (check out our interview with him from earlier this year, here).
This week at Geneva Watch Days, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF will reveal its first collection under Terreni’s hand – the new, all-expansive Tonda PF line. It’s a refresh of the company’s long-running Tonda collection that consists of seven total watches, in four styles, to start, each with an integrated bracelet, including a two-hander, a high-beat chronograph, an annual calendar with retrograde date, and – the star of the show – a high-beat split-seconds chronograph cased in solid platinum.
I’ve long considered myself the resident Parmigiani champion on the HODINKEE staff. Michel was the first serious independent watchmaker I met when I started my career in the watch industry back in 2015ish, and I was able to visit the restoration workshop in 2019, where I promptly fell even deeper in love with the company’s approach. Its off-kilter design language and all-encompassing outlook on watchmaking has even influenced how I look at other independent watchmakers in this space – that’s how lost in the Parmigiani sauce I am.
I say all this because even I, a full-throated supporter of the company’s endeavors, recognized that Parmigiani needed someone with a critical eye to come in and determine what’s next for the brand, or how it can break into the next tier of watch brands with even broader recognition. It’s great to be an indie darling, but that’s not what pays the bills these days.

So I was excited to see what Terreni’s strategy would look like, and we finally have it. To me, this looks like a continuation of what the company started last year with the Tondagraphe models, but a more streamlined, less ornamental take on the integrated bracelet phenomenon. It all starts with the introduction of a new dial emblem – the “PF” logo now appears in an applied vertical oval at 12 o’clock on each dial. A Grain d’Orge guilloché dial pattern is consistent across all seven watches in the new series, as are the solid-gold openworked hands, the multi-finish bezel taken from the original Tonda line, and applied hour markers set across two levels of the dial. The case bears a distinctive silhouette, flowing in a bassiné fashion, to wear ergonomically on the wrist.

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From there, the four model variants differ. The entry-point into the new collection is the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor, a pair of simple, well-proportioned pieces that measure 40mm × 7.88mm. Available in stainless steel or 18k rose gold, with a matching integrated bracelet and a warm grey dial, the two watches are the most direct responses to the traditional time-only champions of this category of watchmaking. Parmigiani updated one of its flagship movements, the platinum micro-rotor-equipped caliber PF703, to integrate the minute oscillating weight inside the movement rather than locating it in its typical place, laying on top of it.

The first thing I notice here is the lack of verbiage on the dial. Save for the applied 12 o’clock PF logo, there is absolutely no text, branding, or numerals. Looking at the press images it almost looks incomplete, but I’m sure in person it’s a welcome adjustment.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph, an integrated high-beat chronograph operating at 5 Hz, is the next release in the collection. Available in stainless steel or rose gold (sense a theme yet?), the 42mm × 12.4mm pair of chronographs have a rich dark blue dial with sub-dials in the three, six, and nine o’clock arrangement. The caliber PF070 inside is operated by a column wheel, and I particularly enjoy the use of cushion-shaped pushers here as a complement to the flowing curvature of the case design. Parmigiani says that this choice was made to “fuse with the profile of the Tonda PF Chronograph’s lugs.” A new openworked oscillating weight with a central PF medallion in 22ct rose gold was also developed for these watches.
A visual sibling to the Tonda PF Chronograph, the new Tonda PF Annual Calendar updates the visual language that has so far been associated with the company’s signature calendar complication. We have a retrograde date, day, month, and 122-year moon-phase (as visible in both hemispheres), with central hour, minute, and seconds hands. Also available in steel and rose gold, with a warm grey dial, this is, in my opinion, the most classic Parmigiani of the bunch – an expert take on a complication, rendered in an idiosyncratic orientation.
Finally, the hero piece for the company’s 25th anniversary is the Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph, a limited edition of 25 watches, naturally. This model is, in many ways, a continuation of the visual identity started by the GPHG-winningTonda Chronor Anniversaire, released in 2016 for its 20th anniversary. This time around, Parmigiani has ditched the big date window at 12 o’clock and replaced the grand feu enamel dial with the characteristics of the rest of the new Tonda PF line and cased it all up in a lovely platinum case and matching bracelet. Surprisingly, the silver dial is also crafted from solid platinum.
Oh, and this movement is an absolute dream: The caliber PF361 is an integrated split-seconds chronograph that stands as one of Parmigiani’s most complicated movements. The main-plate and bridges are both solid rose gold, extensively openworked, and satin-finished and beveled by hand. It offers 65 hours of running autonomy, and (!) runs in 5 Hz.
It should surprise no one that I’m a fan of each of the watches that make up the new Tonda PF line. Part of me wishes that Terreni had jumped off by creating an all-new line with no connection to the past of the brand, but I also can’t fault what we ended up with. My recent preoccupation with split-seconds chronographs is well-documented on these pages, so the high-beat Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph is an obvious highlight for me here. Given its limited edition status, it wouldn’t surprise me if all 25 of those are snapped up in a hurry, but I’m hoping we’ll get a chance to see it at HODINKEE HQ in the near future. If not, I think at least one member of the new collection is due for a proper Hands-On treatment.