For decades, the Rolex Sea-Dweller maintained a 40mm diameter. However, that all changed in 2017 when the brand introduced the reference 126600. As the latest edition of its famed deep saturation diver, the Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600 is complete with a 43mm case, integration to the cal. 3235 Perpetual movement, a Cyclops magnification lens on the dial, and the return of the bright red ‘Sea-Dweller’ logo on the dial.
The Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600 represents the latest in Rolex innovation and it is perfectly on-trend with current watch tastes. Known as the bigger and more capable sibling to the iconic Submariner dive watch, it’s no wonder why so many loyal Rolex customers have their eye on this absolute stunner. Read on to learn more about the latest example of the stainless steel Rolex Sea-Dweller and find out how to get one on your wrist.
In the weeks leading up to Baselworld 2017, the speculation as to what Rolex would be releasing was rife. With astute watch collectors quickly pointing out that 2017 marked 50 years of the Rolex Sea-Dweller, the community braced for an anniversary edition.
We all know — and love — that Rolex celebrates iconic anniversaries, and more often than not it’s a sophisticated touch here and there. Think back to the Rolex Submariner (ref 16610LV), where we saw a green bezel, or the more recent Rolex Day-Date 40 (60th anniversary Edition), with a stunning green dial. For all that, they’re instantly recognisable: Rolex are subtle — one of their core strengths is to design and manufacture timeless wristwatches. A Submariner from 1970 looks just as good as a current production Submariner, and that’s because Rolex doesn’t do rapid change. They move to the beat of their own drum. So, when the doors to the fair opened, attendees (myself included) swarmed to the Rolex booth, fighting to get the first glimpse of exactly what this would be. Glistening in the window sat the brand new 50th Anniversary Sea-Dweller. Since that initial exciting glimpse, I’ve managed to spend a bit more time with the new Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 126600, which replaces the short-lived reference 116600, known to many as the ‘SD4K’.
Logic says this is a tool watch, built with deep sea divers in mind. Emotion says this is equally for the die-hard desk divers (which includes yours truly). It’s the perfect watch for someone who’s picked up a Submariner, or SD4K, and craved a little more wrist presence, both in size and weight. The same wearer who loves the sound the Cerachrom bezel makes, as they turn it around, all 120 clicks. The wearer who lives for the sound the oyster class makes, as you shut the Fliplock.
From renowned manufacture A. Lange & Söhne to the modern independent brand of NOMOS (and many others), Glashütte in the eastern part of Germany is the birthplace and home to German watchmaking. It is also home to a brand that bears the town’s name in its own name, Glashütte Original. I won’t go into the history of G.O. too much but I highly recommend reading into its history, as its journey to where it is now is quite interesting. Though G.O. manufactures many styles of watches, their Pano line is probably one of their more popular collections, in which I will talk specifically about the Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar in this review.
The watch has a diameter of 40mm, case thickness of 12.7mm, a lug-to-lug of 47mm, and a lug width of 20mm. The measurement that perhaps sticks out the most is its thickness. There is no denying that the PanoMaticLunar is chunky. On the wrist, it has substantial presence. You can view this as either a pro or a con. If you’re after a svelte dress watch that tucks away neatly under a cuff, this may not be the watch for you. However, if you’re after a modern watch that won’t look out of place with a suit and in more casual settings, then its thickness is a plus. It gives off a “sportier” vibe, if you will. The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar fits comfortably on my 16cm (6.3″) wrist, though it does appear to be larger than 40mm due to its thin, sculpted bezel. The dial of the watch, though asymmetrical, is very balanced and pleasing to look at. The hour, minute, and seconds are on the left side of the dial and the moonphase and big date located on the right side which creates a sense of harmony and doesn’t jar its wearer into thinking something is askew. The galvanized blue dial shifts from demanding your attention in the sunlight to shying away in the shade. The moonphase display is white and complements the blue dial nicely. Its other party piece (one of many) is its big date. Unlike the big date utilized by A. Lange & Söhne, G.O.’s big date disks lie on the same focal plane. For some, this is a better execution of the big date design. However, I’ve come to find that I actually prefer the execution of the Lange big date disks because it adds a sense of depth to an otherwise flat dial. (Disclaimer: I did replace my PanoMaticLunar for a Lange 1). Ultimately, it is up to you to decide which is the “better” execution but this was my experience in owning both the Lange 1 and the PanoMaticLunar.
When you flip over the watch and you’re treated to a visual feast. The movement is generously decorated with a skeletonized micro-rotor, the famous Glashütte stripes that opens up dimensions with the direction of light, and a hand engraved balance bridge with a double swan neck regulator. The entire movement exhibits high polishing, heated blue screws, and beveled edges. A quick glance at the movement can turn into several minutes staring into the labyrinth (and perhaps an awkward reaction from coworkers asking what you’re doing); it’s that good! After all that comes the big “but”: …but it looks like a Lange 1. It’s no secret that the Pano collection is inspired by the Lange 1 (I mean, Glashütte Original’s HQ is literally right next to Lange. Wouldn’t you be interested to see what’s going in your neighbour’s backyard too when there’s a commotion?). But I don’t think they should be looked at as an alternative to the Lange 1 for those who can’t afford (or justify) the exorbitant amount of money for one. The concept may be similar but their execution is different. Lange only offers their watches in precious metals. The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar series comes in stainless steel (as well as PM). Though inspired, the watch is different enough not only in design but in character that it feels like a completely different watch. The Lange stands stern and straight-faced. The GO, more playful. Ever wanted a stainless steel Lange? Glashütte Original.
Earlier this year, Longines added two new Art Deco sector dialled automatic watches to their longines dolcevita quartz Collection. The collection is the brand’s answer to a classically styled Tank-shaped watch. These new iterations translated the design of their Heritage Classic Sector Dial into the more dressy confines of a DolceVita. As the watches have started to hit boutiques and authorized dealers, I decided to take closer look at what Longines is offering here. After a few calls, I tracked down the new references to the Westfield World Trade Center Mall in New York City. Within its confines exists the Longines Boutique, which currently is the only location in the city that had the four references I was interested in viewing. Once inside, I got to spend a few minutes with each, trying to get a better sense of wearability and sizing. While the charm of it all is alluring, there is a level of consciousness you have to have in order to pull it off. For starters, walking into the train station each day I found I needed to put my hand over the pocket the pocket longines dolcevita quartz watch rested in so that I could ensure the turnstile did not smack it. You also, at least in regard to how I wore it, need to be aware of what you lean on or brush up against as you really want to avoid shock and damage. I also, if I am being totally honest, felt less confident pulling it out while riding the train. Whether holding a sizable piece of solid gold in a closed city train car, or the threat of train turbulence throwing me around while holding it, the anxiety outweighed the charm factor in those moments on the subway.
Another aspect to consider is the wardrobe a pocket watch requires. Sure, I didn’t go full Peaky Blinder get-up. But, when the temperature is hovering close to 90 degrees, having a jacket on is not always ideal. Theoretically, I could have clipped the chain to a belt loop and put the pocket watch in my pants pocket. But, I typically have my phone in one pocket and my keys and AirPods in the other. So, short of having a bag with me, or putting the pocket watch in my back pocket (which would be incredibly risky and stupid), this was not really feasible for me to do. It also wouldn’t have conveyed the style I wanted to have while wearing it, looking more like a chain-wallet than a modern take on how a pocket watch was classically and elegantly worn.
Probably the biggest scare I had was the threat of rain/moisture. I was very vigilant about knowing the weather forecast each day, but, at times, the weather can be quite unpredictable. So, after a day at the office, when I stepped out on to the street and received an invitation to meet up for dinner with some colleagues I was excited to get an end-of-day meal. But, as I started to text to reply that I would join them I suddenly felt a rain drop hit my head. I headed back beneath an awning to stop and look at the current forecast, and when I saw rain was imminently on the way I knew I needed to rush home before I, and more importantly the pocket watch, got soaked. longines dolcevita quartz Watches of this age are not really water-resistant, so they are definitely not ideal around liquid.
Last year, Ulysse Nardin debuted its Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton, which brought the bold skeletonized design of the Blast collection to the brand’s lineup of dive watches and paired it with a lightweight and highly-durable Carbonium bezel. The original model featured a stainless steel case with a blue and orange color profile, and all 175 pieces of the limited-edition watch rapidly sold out immediately following its launch. This year, Ulysse Nardin is bringing back its popular skeletonized diver in the form of the Diver X Skeleton Black, which largely follows the same core design of the inaugural model from 2021, except for the fact that it now appears entirely in black and yellow and features a lightweight titanium case with a black Carbonium bezel. The 44mm case of the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black measures 16mm thick and is crafted from sandblasted and satin-finished titanium, which is then given a jet black DLC finish. The choice of titanium for the new model promises a significantly lighter construction compared to the original Diver X Skeleton watch from 2021, which used a blue PVD-coated stainless steel case. Sitting on top of the case is a domed sapphire crystal surrounded by a concave unidirectional rotating timing bezel that is fitted with a black Carbonium insert. Originally developed for the aerospace industry and used in the production of the wings and fuselage of certain contemporary aircraft, Carbonium is an extremely lightweight and durable type of carbon-fiber composite, which has a 40% lower environmental impact than other types of carbon-based material. A large sapphire window occupies the majority of the Diver X Skeleton Black’s screw-on titanium caseback, which helps provide it with a dive-ready 200 meters of water resistance. Just like the original Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black watch, the “dial” of the new Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black is essentially a large “X” with virtually everything else carved away to reveal its highly skeletonized movement. The dial itself features a black PVD finish with bright yellow accents, and it includes a black chapter ring that has the hour markers for the watch attached along the outer edges, giving them the appearance that they are floating above the rest of the dial and the movement’s skeletonized surfaces. Just as you would expect from any model that claims to be a dive watch, the hands and hour markers on the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black are finished with Super-LumiNova for improved visibility in dark conditions, and black Carbonium is used again for the cover the of the mainspring barrel, which is fully visible through the window in the dial’s surface at 12 o’clock. Powering the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black is the brand’s in-house UN-372 automatic movement, which is a modified version of the UN-371 that has been updated to feature an X-shaped oscillating weight to echo the design found on the dial. Consisting of 171 components, the UN-372 runs at a frequency of 21,600vph, and it features an escape wheel, anchor, and balance spring that are all crafted from Silicium, along with offering users an ample 96-hour power reserve. The Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black comes with both a yellow rubber strap and a black fabric R-strap that is constructed from upcycled polyamide from fishing nets that have been removed from the ocean. The Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black represents the continuation of the brand’s skeletonized dive watch that first debuted last year. While its core design will be familiar to fans of the original blue and orange model, its black and yellow color profile combined with its lightweight titanium construction results in a watch that both looks and feels significantly different from the previous limited edition version that was unveiled last year.
There are plenty of watches tied to auto racing, with big brands acting as sponsors to big racing teams and making splashes with special editions. Chopard has taken a drastically different tack from some of its high-profile counterparts in the racing watch space. For some time now, the brand has focused its racing partnerships on two historic races: the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique and the Mille Miglia, the latter of which acts as the name for the brand’s line of sports watches. The Mille Miglia is a legendary 1,000-mile Italian road race (fine, it’s technically 1,005 miles), originally run from 1927 to 1957 as a true road race, and since 1977 as a celebration of classic cars taken at a slightly more leisurely pace. The race runs a round trip from Brescia to Rome and back, and is limited to models that actually entered one of the original races held from 1927 to 1957 — meaning it’s chock full of beautiful vintage automobiles. For 2022, in celebration of the 40th running of the modern Mille Miglia, the brand has released a pair of limited-edition Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition watches, offered in stainless steel or two-tone stainless steel and ethical 18k rose gold. Like prior years’ editions, the Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition watches feature a 44mm case with a well-proportioned 13.79mm thickness. While it won’t wear small, it’s a thinner profile than most automatic chronographs, which means it might be a surprise on the wrist. The case’s design is straightforward, which allows the dial to do the talking. On both the stainless steel and the two-tone model, the case is brushed throughout, save for the crown, pushers, and bezel (which are all rendered in ethical 18k rose gold on the two-tone model). The screw-down crown, nestled neatly in the guards, features a steering wheel motif, while the piston pushers have a crisscross knurling. The crown looks designed to be easily gripped and helps to ensure 100m of water resistance. The bezel features a single groove around its side and a decidedly slim ceramic insert in blue with white demarcations inspired by midcentury Italian road signs. The slender bezel is sure to make known the 44mm diameter, though the short, wide lugs may offer some relief. On the reverse, the screw-down caseback features a polished Mille Miglia motif on a frosted background, surrounded by text including the course’s route, “Brescia > Roma > Brescia,” and limited-edition numbering. Beneath the domed sapphire crystal, Chopard has updated the dial from last year’s Race Edition. The dial is driven by legibility, evidenced by the large hands and indices, along with the contrasting finishes. Surrounding the circular-brushed, silver-gray dial is a sloped chapter ring with five-minute numbering and hashes at each minute plus quarter-minute markings, sure to aid in to-the-second timing. The applied hour markers feature blue CVD-treated markers filled with Super-LumiNova; their design and color are mirrored by the large minute and hour hands. The dial features three subdials as dictated by the 7750 movement: a 30-minute counter at 12, a 12-hour counter at 6, and a running seconds at 9. The two chronograph counters feature partial radial grooving with a red-tipped hand matching the central chronograph hand in a nod to Mille Miglia Red (which, by the way, is a color used by General Motors on the Corvette). The running seconds contrasts those with a solid blued hand and a fully grooved surface. The dial is rounded out by a magnified 3 o’clock date (with the cyclops on the sapphire’s underside) and the Mille Miglia logo. The Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition is powered by a Swiss automatic chronograph movement. It’s not specified by the brand which automatic chronograph caliber this is but given the specs and dial layout, along with the brand’s use of ETA calibers in other models, the good money is on it being an ETA 7750. As specified by Chopard, the movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours and runs at 28,800 bph for a smooth sweep. Chopard has gone the extra step to have the movement chronometer-certified by COSC. While a chronograph is the obvious choice for any racing watch, the modern Mille Miglia is run as a regularity race, where the object is to complete each segment in a specific time at a specific average speed. Although the race officials use GPS, pressure pads, and timekeeping staff to track progress, it won’t hurt teams to have a chronometer-certified chronograph along for the ride to keep their own time. Completing the package, this year’s Race Edition is fitted with a racing strap with a brown leather topside and blue rubber backing with a tread pattern taken from 1960s Dunlop racing tires. While Chopard may be receiving more acclaim these days for its beautiful Alpine Eagle collection, sleeping on the Mille Miglia is a rookie mistake. Chopard’s interest in motorsports is as deep as it is sincere: as in years past, Chopard Co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele will take part in the race in his family’s 1955 Mercedes Benz 300 SL, this year with his daughter Caroline-Marie at his side. The Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition is a racing watch from a brand that loves racing, as well as a classic chronograph with an approachable design that commemorates an epic Italian tradition. While 1,000 pieces of the stainless steel Race Edition will be produced, just 250 of the two-tone steel and ethical 18K rose gold model will be made.
The Blancpain Air Command was originally produced by Blancpain in the 1950s, and was supposedly intended for use by the US Air Force, the US Navy having already adopted the 50 Fathoms diver’s watch. The Air Command was a flyback chronograph, constructed somewhat along the lines of the Type 20 spec, and supposedly 12 watches were made and offered to USAF pilots through Blancpain’s US distributor, Allen Tornek. It’s now an extremely rare grail watch for vintage Blancpain collectors – they’ve appeared at auction very rarely. One is coming up at Phillips Hong Kong later this month, with an estimate of $50-100,000; and prior to that, another one (not the same watch) hammered in 2016, also at Phillips (in the 88 Epic Stainless Steel Chronograph auction) for CHF 100,000. The lot notes for both watches are pretty much the same in the essentials. The catalogue essay for the 2016 auction reads, ” … scholars have asserted that it was never serially manufactured or commercialized,” and then continues, “Like many other Swiss manufacturers, Blancpain was hit by the quartz crisis and … had to sell many of its assets, including some unfinished watches. With only a handful of specimens of this mythical model known to have survived, it is hard to determine what the exact specifications of the Air Command are.” It then goes on to say, “However, as some of the Air commands have Blancpain-signed movements, it is possible that examples like the one presented here have only been assembled and fitted with a Valjoux 222 after the sell-off of the cases, dials, bezels and pushers and hands.” While the origins of the original Air Command seem to be destined to remain a mystery (albeit if we had records from the era, many passionate collectors would doubtless be deprived of the pleasure of arguing with each other) it was a handsome flyback chronograph, with classic mid-century instrument-timepiece good looks, and Blancpain has in terms of cosmetics, stayed very close to the original. Indeed, from the dial side, at first glance it would be difficult to distinguish one from the other. The new-for-2019 model is very slightly larger than the original (42mm, vs. 42.50 for the new model). The Arabics are larger in the new model (as is the crown), the word “Flyback” is present in a very subdued fashion on the new guy, and of course, the difference in chronograph pusher positioning gives away the newer movement. The new model has no running seconds, with a 12 hour counter where there was a running seconds on the original; but taken as a whole, it’s a pretty faithful reproduction, right down to the elongated 3-minute markers in the 30 minute register. The new watch, however, has a very different movement from the flyback Valjoux caliber 222 in the vintage model. It uses the Blancpain caliber F388B – this is a column-wheel controlled, flyback automatic chronograph with vertical clutch, and which runs at 5 hertz, or 36,000 vph, giving the chronograph a 1/10 of a second resolution. If you’re going to do an homage to a vintage model this is a great way to do it. What a lot of us love about vintage watches is, yes, the nostalgia they can evoke, but of course functionally vintage watches are generally inferior to their modern counterparts, especially with the advances in materials technology, lubricants, gaskets and seals, and movement design which the last ten or fifteen years have brought us. The overwhelming tendency from a design standpoint, from modern brands, seems to be to use ecru Super-LumiNova (somewhat ironically, it turns out that “ecru” actually means “raw” or “unbleached”) in an effort to reproduce the look of yellowed radium or tritium paint, but as Jason Heaton mentioned in one of his stories for us, you don’t necessarily have to see this as an attempt to drape oneself in borrowed glory – at this point, and despite the fact that “fauxtina” is a term that seems to be here to stay, you can as easily look at it as just another color choice if you want.
While the new Blancpain Air Command really succeeds in general of capturing the charm of the original vintage model, the one other niggle I can see folks having with it is the propeller-shaped rotor. This is the sort of thing that tends to come across as either an annoying bit of kitsch, or a harmless bit of fun, depending on who you are (and maybe on which side of the bed you got out of this morning). Propeller-shaped winding rotors on aviation-themed watches are, like ecru lume, present in large enough numbers that I personally don’t object to them as much as I did even a few years ago (perhaps this is just a sign of age-related resignation, but I can’t manage to rouse much outrage about it). The rotor in the Air Command is reasonably well done, anyhow, and the rather sober brushed finish the red gold has been given, is pleasantly harmonious with the style in which the rest of the movement has been finished. A propeller on a watch whose design originated in the 1950s is a bit of an anachronism, as by the early 1950s most air forces were falling over themselves trying to switch as fast as possible to jet aircraft, but it’s still a handsome looking rotor.
All praise, incidentally, to Blancpain for omitting a date window – normally I don’t mind them but a date guichet would have been jarringly out of place on this watch (ditto for sticking to a two-register design). Overall, this is a very respectful as well as faithful homage to one of the most interesting, to say nothing of mysterious, vintage Blancpain watches, and the use of modern materials and a modern movement adds significantly to the appeal. These will be produced in slightly larger numbers than the very few surviving vintage Blancpain Air Command watches – Blancpain is offering this watch as a 500 piece limited edition.
Expanding on a dive watch collection — especially one with such a rich history as the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms — is a challenge at the best of times. Do you stick to classic tool watch roots? Do you step outside the box with a complication or design with more commercial appeal? Do you start toying with unorthodox case materials? There are a lot of ways to go here, and as we’ve seen year after year, the results can be fantastic, just as easily as they can be questionable. We’ve seen Blancpain take some interesting approaches with the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe collection recently, including the blue ceramic-cased flyback chronograph Ocean Commitment II, but for 2018 we were presented with a couple of very unexpected dive watches from the longstanding brand. The most curious is the complete calendar moonphase (Quantième Complet Phase de Lune, per the brand), taking the classic 43mm satin-brushed Bathyscaphe case, and fitting it with a very vintage-y dressy-feeling triple calendar moonphase complication. It’s weird, it’s confusing, it’s the first and only diver with this complication, but it also makes the mind roam to the much-loved phrase: “That’s so crazy, it just might work!” Will it? Let’s find out. Of the many details about this latest release, its case design is the least altered when compared to prior Bathyscaphe watches. Entirely brushed in finish, as would be expected of a proper tool watch, the only noteworthy change to the 43mm steel case of the Complete Calendar Moonphase is the addition of a pair of corrector pushers located on the case barrel around the 2 and 4 o’clock position. On one hand, the idea of adding pushers to a 300m dive watch sounds a little sketchy, but in practice we don’t suspect they will cause any issues with water resistance. For one, these will not (we can say will not, and not just might not) engage in serious diving, and flyback chronograph variants of the Bathyscaphe already use non screw-down pushers, at this depth rating, so there’s really nothing to be concerned about here. Here’s where we get to the good stuff, as there’s a lot going on on the Complete Calendar Moonphase dial. Compared to a conventional 3-hand Bathyscaphe diver, the slate grey sun-brushed dial is definitely a little busy, though it kind of works. Blancpain stuck with the traditional triple calendar moonphase configuration, with the day and week near 12, a pointer date indication, and a large moonphase indication at 6 o’clock. This is a configuration the brand has been using for some time now in the Villeret, though to make it work in the Bathyscaphe is a relocation of its pointer date track. Rather than having this indication at the outer perimeter of the dial, it has been moved inbound of its hour indices. This helps ensure that its minute track is free of clutter when its timing bezel is in use. As we’ve mentioned, this is a complication the brand has been using for quite some time, and the caliber 6654.P is by no means a new addition to the brand’s repertoire. That said, it’s a well-executed caliber, good for a power reserve of 72 hours, and fitted with a blackened 18k gold decorated rotor. A minor tweak was required to relocate its corrector pushers to the side of its case (rather than between the lugs, as we see in the Villeret line), but otherwise this is a case of grab a caliber from the shelf and find it a new home. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe is one of those watches that quickly reminds its wearer that case diameter spec is not a good benchmark of how a watch will be on the wrist. At 43mm across, I wasn’t expecting it to be quite as chunky on the wrist; however (thankfully), it still wasn’t overpowering. The piece was launched on bracelet, NATO, and a sailcloth canvas, the latter of which has consistently proven very comfortable. Its bezel action is as expected from one of the most well-respected dive watch manufacturers out there, and the same can be said for its brightly glowing Super-LumiNova indices. Spending some time with the Complete Calendar Moonphase, to be frank it took some time for me to warm up to it. Aesthetically, it’s a mighty sharp looking piece, and I’m a fan of how well executed the calendar complication was integrated into a dive watch. At its root, the hangup is entirely the melding of a dress watch complication and a tool watch case. That said, I soon realised how foolish the hangup was. Crossing design codes is something I’ve often encouraged in other categories, and once again acknowledging that this new Replica Blancpain is not meant as a pure tool watch per se … where’s the real harm, right? It’s a sharp-looking watch, it has practical complications, and it’s built to Blancpain’s exacting standards. This is certainly worth a second look if you’re in the market for an out-of-the-ordinary diver from a legacy brand.
Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar is welcoming a new complication to its high-end luxury collection, the PanoMaticCalendar with an annual calendar mechanism. This premiere is offered in red gold and a limited platinum execution, with 150 pieces manufactured. Both have an unmistakable style and are bond to make the hearts of aficionados beat faster. By definition, the annual calendar complication is a great companion throughout the year, reliably indicating the day, month and date with taking the different lengths into account. It’s only once a year, on March 1st, that the owner has to advance the date. It goes without saying that the characteristic large date, aptly called “Panorama Date,” and a beautiful moon phase are also aboard. The innovative retrograde display of the month, beneath a sapphire crystal window between 3 and 6 o’clock, perfectly complements the signature asymmetric design.
With the Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar , Glashütte Original also presents a new genuine movement, which celebrates its premiere in two versions at once: as Calibre 92-09 in the unlimited red gold version, and as Calibre 92-10 in the partially skeletonized platinum model. Both movements are rhodium plated and finished to the high standards of this traditional luxury manufacture. The one powering the limited edition is particularly striking; galvanization coats it in an elegant shade of black rhodium. From a technical standpoint, Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar this top-notch movement running at 28,800 vph offers a silicon balance spring unaffected by changes in temperature or magnetic fields, a power reserve of 100 hours. The retrograde month display is particularly refined. It can be easily set, just like the date, via the crown.
Geneva-based manufacturer Frederique Constant presents DJ The Avener as its new brand ambassador. The French artist’s music is characterised by innovation, creativity and modernity. Frederique Constant is also committed to these qualities. These mutual values are the basis of the partnership that is now celebrated with the release of the Highlife Chronograph Automatic. With this watch, the house is adding a chronograph to the Highlife collection for the first time. Initially, there are three versions: Two in stainless steel and one two-tone with rose gold. All of them remain true to the design language of the line and proudly bear the engraving of the earth on the dial. One of the models is limited to 1888 pieces, the other two are available without limitation. Der schweizer Uhrenhersteller Frédérique Constant Highlife Chronograph Automatic präsentiert den französischen Star-DJ “The Avener” als neuen Markenbotschafter und lanciert anlässlich der Zusammenarbeit die Highlife als Chronograph. Zum ersten Mal wird das Erfolgsmodell der Marke aus Genf mit den Funktionen Start, Stop und Reset ausgestattet und ist in drei Versionen erhältlich. Ob Sie in dem Trio Ihren Favoriten finden, wissen Sie spätestens nach dieser Lektüre, in der wir Ihnen alle wichtigen Informationen zusammengestellt haben. Die Maison Frédérique Constant Highlife Chronograph Automatic wurde 1988 gegründet, ein Jahr nachdem der französische Künstler und DJ Tristan Casara, alias “The Avener” geboren wurde. Als sich Ihre Wege in diesem Jahr zum ersten Mal kreuzten, wurden die Berührungspunkte in der Ausübung ihrer Leidenschaft schnell offensichtlich. Hier geht es um das Zusammentreffen zweier Welten, die durch eine gemeinsame Mission verbunden sind: Uhrmacher und Musiker, die als Handwerker der Emotion agieren. Bei der Kreation eines Werkes bemühen sich beide darum, die perfekten Noten zu finden, die harmonisch zusammengestellt außergewöhnliche Momente schaffen.
Die 1999 erstmals lancierte Uhrenkollektion der Highlife trat 2020 in neuer Gestalt ins Rampenlicht, allerdings mit einem entschieden zeitgenössischeren Design. Auch hier spiegelt sich die Zusammenarbeit spielend wieder, da auch The Avener großen Spaß daran hat, Klassiker neu zu interpretieren und ihnen einen Hauch von Modernität in einem originellen Elektropop-Stil zu verleihen, der mit Anleihen aus dem Blues, Jazz, Folk oder Soul durchsetzt ist. Das Zifferblatt jeder Version verfügt über eine klassische Anordnung mit kleiner Sekunde bei 9 Uhr, einem 30-Minuten-Zähler bei 3 Uhr und einem 12-Stunden-Zähler bei 6 Uhr. Drei zentrale, handpolierte Zeiger vervollständigen das Ensemble: zwei Leuchtzeiger für die Stunden und Minuten und ein zentraler Sekundenzeiger des Chronographen. Jedes Modell ist zudem mit einer zweiten, im Alltag nützlichen Komplikation ausgestattet: dem Datum, das diskret in einem eigenen Fenster zwischen 4 Uhr und 5 Uhruntergebracht ist. Der Gehäuseboden ist mit einem Saphirglas versehen, um den Blick auf das Automatikwerk FC-391 und sein Chronographenmodul zu ermöglichen. Insbesondere das Säulenrad bei 3 Uhr werden Sie trotz Anschnitt auf dem Foto vermutlich sofort erkannt haben. Dieses Kaliber wurde in Zusammenarbeit mit der schweizer Manufaktur La Joux-Perret entwickelt und zeichnet sich nicht nur durch eine bemerkenswerte moderne Bauweise, sondern auch durch ein hohes Maß an Qualität und Verarbeitung aus. Darüber hinaus hat Frédérique Constant Highlife Chronograph Automatic für jedes dieser neuen Modelle eine roségoldene Schwungmasse mit Genfer Streifen entworfen. Die Frequenz liegt bei 28.800 Halbschwingungen pro Stunde (4 Hertz) und die Gangautonomie nach Vollaufzug bei 60 Stunden. Jedes Exemplar ist mit der Gravur „Highlife Chronograph“ versehen und liefert eine Wasserdichtigkeit von 10 bar, was dem Druck in 100 Meter Tauchtiefe entspricht.
Swiss watch company Longines likes to associate the likes of late actors Humphrey Bogart and Audrey Hepburn with its new line of watches, the Longines Evidenza, due to its Art Deco look and shape that call to mind the stylishness of many of their movies. But you have to wonder if notoriously hard-boiled Bogie would have approved of the Evidenza men’s stainless-steel chronograph with black dial that flashes a diamond-encrusted bezel. I think he would have wholeheartedly.
Longines says that the watch takes its inspiration from a barrel, or tonneau-shaped, watch that Bogart owned in the 1940s. That watch, first produced in 1925, was inspired by a 1911 model. After seeing the original during the World Watch and Jewelry Show in Basel, Switzerland, last spring, I confess a faint resemblance; however, the Evidenza is a much more extravagant yet elegant timepiece.
All the Longines Evidenza chrongraph, both men’s and women’s, use the same self-winding mechanical movement and a 42-hour power reserve that keeps them ticking when they’re set down. The men’s chronograph is fitted with an L650 movement and a center chronograph hand, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers at 9 and 6 o’clock, respectively, plus a subdial for seconds at 3 o’clock. The watch has an extra four hours of reserve power.
The diamond-encrusted chrono Longines Evidenza chrongraph comes in the stainless-steel case with either a stainless-steel bracelet ($9,200) or crocodile strap ($9,100). The watch is available without diamonds in pink or yellow gold ($5,100) or stainless steel ($2,300). A pink gold watch has been developed with diamonds, but is as yet unavailable in the United States. The face is either a flat silver or black dial.
Maybe Bogart was talking about a Longines watch when he used this line in the 1953 film Beat the Devil: “Time. Time. What is time? Swiss manufacture it. French hoard it. Italians want it. Americans say it is money.”