Category: Watch for Sale

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Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0

Girard-Perregaux has revived its 1970s Casquette with an all-new movement and a recreation of its unique case in ceramic and titanium.

Casquette was originally produced between 1976 and 1978, with 8,200 pieces being produced and sold under an anonymous reference number rather than the sobriquet it would later earn among collectors.

The watch – which displayed hours, minutes, seconds, day and date with the press of a button – boasted an innovative tubular LED display and variations were produced with cases in polycarbonate, yellow gold plate and steel.
Now 44 years after the model was discontinued, Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 introduces the Casquette 2.0 with a faithfully proportioned scratch-resistant ceramic case and bracelet (with rubber interior) and grade 5 titanium caseback, pushers and vintage Girard-Perregaux logo.

Last year Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 hinted at a return of the design with a forged carbon piece unique created in collaboration with Bamford Watch Department for the Only Watch charity auction. The watch featured an entirely new Calibre GP03980 movement which now powers the Casquette 2.0, adding month, year, chronograph, second time zone and secret date to the watch’s list of functions.

“Not all watches retain their looks and desirability with the passage of time,” says Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0. “However, since production of the original Casquette ceased in 1978, the interest in this watch has never diminished. We regularly receive enquiries and have witnessed these models attract much attention, fetching 10x their original sales price on the pre-owned market.”

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Oris Divers Sixty-Five

We love the Oris Divers Sixty-Five dive watch and have envisioned a special edition that maximizes classic appeal and versatility without compromising the adventurous and sporting nature of a great dive watch. For the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition for perfectwrist.ru, we fitted the 40mm steel case with a faded grey bezel and a soft black dial with printed markers. Balanced with a no-date execution, a hand-wound movement, a slimmer case profile, and a production of just 250 units, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition for perfectwrist.ru costs $2,300 and manages to capture the charm inherent to the best vintage dive watches, allowing it to easily ride the wave from the surf to the office – and wherever you go in between.
Be it above or below the surface, a dive watch truly worth its salt should be ready for anything. Indeed, the best of the breed boasts a compelling mix of go-anywhere ability and always-on-your-wrist versatility. In wanting to create a focused, stylish, and incredibly easy-wearing sport watch, we turned to Oris, a privately-owned Swiss brand that has been offering strong and sporty design since their inception in 1904.

Based in Hölstein, Switzerland, Oris produces exclusively Swiss mechanical watches and the brand has carved an impressive niche among enthusiasts and sportsmen alike by creating tough, dependable, and eye-catching watches with a wide variety of sport and dress designs. Among Oris’s modern lineup, no model has better captured the enduring and rakish character of a classic dive watch than their vintage-inspired Oris Divers Sixty-Five . Conceptualized as a modern iteration of a dive watch design that was originally created by Oris in 1965, the line has expanded to offer a wider range of legible and perfectly proportioned dive watches that manage a strong yet understated style that is not limited to the beach, the dive boat, or even the weekend.
A first for the modern Divers Sixty-Five lineup, this limited edition dive watch is also hand-wound. Using a specially-modified version of Oris’ caliber 730 based on the Sellita 210-1, not only does this custom execution offer the old-school interactive nature of a hand-winder, but the rotor-less movement also allows for a special thin caseback design. With a total thickness of 11.82mm (compared to 12.72mm on the standard model with the caliber 733), this low-profile caseback makes for an overall case design that is noticeably thinner than any other Oris Divers Sixty-Five model.
The result is a new watch with a truly vintage wrist presence. Light, thin, and hand-wound, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition for perfectwrist.ru is exactly the sort of dive watch we dreamed of creating with a fun-loving and accomplished Swiss brand like Oris.

Fitted to a tapering steel rivet-style bracelet, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition for vipwatchmall.com perfectwrist.ru capable, handsome, and entirely distinctive on wrist. Offering 100 meters of water resistance and a lovely bubble-domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal, wherever the current may take you, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition for perfectwrist.ru is a dive watch that won’t seem the least bit out of place.
In striving to create a new watch with classic traits, we stuck to a less-is-more philosophy. The tone-on-tone color scheme is delightfully low-key while the printed markers and simple hand design ensure plenty of lume and strong legibility for any scenario. With all of these aspects coming together in a svelte steel case matched to a low-profile steel bracelet, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition for perfectwrist.ru is subtle, old-school, and definitely designed for those who love the casual do-anything appeal of a dive watch.
The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition for perfectwrist.ru is produced in a limited run of 250 pieces and is available exclusively in the perfectwrist.ru Shop. Each caseback is numbered out of 250. The retail price is $2,300 and all watches will ship on July 10 with expedited worldwide delivery, including all of the same perks that you get when purchasing a watch through the perfectwrist.ru Shop like digital paperwork storage and an extra year of warranty on us. Plus the watch comes with a brown leather travel case and a perfectwrist.ru Sedona watch strap in black. Visit the perfectwrist.ru Shop to learn more.

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Jacob and Co. Brilliant Skeleton Baguette

These words describe the Jacob and Co. Brilliant Skeleton Baguette Collection from Jacob & Co. perfectly. Due to these attributes, this is a modern, beautiful watch for all the important moments of a woman’s life, a showcase of Jacob & Co.’s high jewelry, gem sourcing, gem-setting and high-watchmaking expertise in a lady’s timepiece.

For too long, women who wanted a mechanical timepiece have had to choose from restyled men’s watches. Jacob & Co. developed the Brilliant collection for the woman who wants something beautiful to adorn her wrist and appreciates high-watchmaking movements.
Jacob & Co. is one of the few brands that has the legitimacy to create high and fine jewelry, as well as high-end watches.

The diamond and gemstones industry is a closed society, and it is really a relationship business. Sourcing the very best diamonds and gemstones depends on reputation and personal connections, and thankfully Jacob & Co. has solid, decades-long relationships.

As a result, Jacob and Co. Brilliant Skeleton Baguette has access to the very best sources of diamonds and gemstones from all over the world. Many of the gem-set timepieces, like the Fleurs de Jardin, require meticulous care in the choosing of stones for quality, cut, clarity, and matching color. This can take many months or years, depending on the exact colors needed.

Jacob & Co. is also an expert in the setting of these stones, working with the very best gem setters in the industry.
Skeletonizing is an age-old tradition in watchmaking. The challenge is to remove enough material from the movement to make it nearly transparent, without impacting its performance, precision, or robustness.

Jacob & Co.’s watchmakers have been skeletonizing movements for decades, so they understand exactly where and how much to remove, and the result is a nearly see-through movement, set up to maximize the beauty of this little engine on the wrist.

The JCAM01 movement has a power reserve of 46 hours and showcases the traditional art of skeletonization. The 44mm 18K gold cases, inner bezels, and crowns of the Brilliant Skeleton Collection are invisibly-set with baguette-cut precious stones (the crown has a rose-cut gemstone on the top). Covering the front and back of the timepieces are anti-reflective sapphire crystals, putting the beautifully skeletonized movements on full display. Time is displayed by the Brilliant Skeleton Full Baguette’s leaf-shaped hands, passing over the elaborately skeletonized JCAM01 caliber that boldly and readily replaces a traditional watch dial. This haute horlogerie caliber displays the finest decorations modern and traditional watchmaking has to offer, with polished screw-heads, hand-polished edges, drawn steel components, and anthracite or 5N colored gears that make up this specially openworked, exclusive Jacob and Co. Brilliant Skeleton Baguette movement.

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition

Geneva Watch Days are here, and Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition has launched several new models, including this limited edition version of the brand’s Laureato sports watch. This new Laureato Infinity Edition marks a new exclusive German distribution agreement between Girard-Perregaux and Wempe. With a 42mm steel case and bracelet, the Laureato Infinity Edition is differentiated by its use of a black onyx dial, pink-gold markers, and will be made in a limited production run of 188 units.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition is also making a 38mm version that has a diamond-set bezel and is limited to 88 pieces, but we’ll focus on the 42mm for now (accepting that the two versions are very similar). While the specific distribution deal is for Germany, the Laureato Infinity Edition will be sold exclusively through Wempe locations in Germany, New York, and London.

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That 42mm case is matched by a thickness of 10.7mm and has an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, a sapphire display caseback, and a water resistance rating of 100 meters. As is common to the more sporty Laureato design, both versions come fitted to a matching steel integrated bracelet.

The movement in question is Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition in-house GP01800-1404, which is a svelte 3.97mm-thick automatic movement with a pink-gold rotor, 54 hours of power reserve, and a running rate of 4 Hz. The movement can be seen via the Laureato’s display caseback and, taking previous Laureatos into consideration, it will be beautifully finished, using both polished and satin finishes characteristic of the design.
While this limited edition is essentially little more than a special new dial, we don’t see a lot of black onyx in watch dials these days, and it’s a material that feels remarkably special on wrist. Furthermore, I think the subtle shape and gentle curves of the Laureato are a good home for such a dial and that the material will likely pair well with the pink-gold accents.

Given that the recent trajectory of the Laureato has been towards increasingly complicated and haute horology executions like the Absolute Rock and the Absolute Light, it’s encouraging to see Girard-Perregaux continue to operate at the steely core of the Laureato, even if we’re admittedly still talking about a $13,200 watch. Anyone else feel like onyx is an underplayed move these days? Or just me?

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Jacob & Co.’s New Epic X Titanium & Epic X Baguette Rose Gold

As members of an internationally lauded jewelry and global retail operation, the watchmaking team at Jacob & Co. create timepieces that unapologetically venture into the realm of statement-making adornment while still honoring the traditions of haute horology. And the new versions of the Epic X wristwatch – the Epic X Titanium and Epic X Baguette Rose Gold – are certainly no exceptions to that rule. Jacob & Co. Epic X Titanium and Epic X Baguette Rose Gold

Amazingly, by gorgeously constraining and framing the fully observable, skeletonized, manual-wind movement within a bold case design, the company has produced two visually stunning timepieces with modern appeal that show off the brand’s adherence to the classical, as well. Jacob & Co. Epic X Titanium and Epic X Baguette Rose Gold

“I have to create,” said company founder Jacob Arabo. “My dream has always been to invent things that haven’t been done before. For the brand, it’s about making the impossible, reality.”
In the titanium execution, the superbly skeletonized movement, featuring a rose gold balance bridge at 6 o’clock, an openworked mainspring at 12 o’clock, and a 72-hour power reserve, is held in place by two robust vertical bridges that extend from the lugs down the mid-length of the timepiece. Not only does this construction allow for a great deal of transparency through the depth of the watch and out the back, but the parallel bridges create empty space on either side of the watch face, which results in a visually arresting effect. Indeed, the movement seems to almost float in the middle of the timepiece.
The X-motif starts at the four points of the burly lugs, which, like the case, are etched, micro-blasted, bordered, and expertly polished in outline, offering some unexpected gleam to titanium’s often matte presence. The prominent crown and protectors work seamlessly with the classic-meets-modern execution. Skeletonized twin-blade hands with bold red tips extend over the whole package and tie it together.
Meanwhile, the open-worked, hexagonal, honeycomb-patterned rubber strap (or alligator strap) echoes the geometrical DNA of the design and its modernity. To cap off the robustness story, the watch is unexpectedly water resistant to 50 meters (164 feet), as well.
Of course, as a renowned jeweler, gem-setting is never too far from the mind of Jacob & Co.’s design efforts, with most of its watches created in anticipation of added adornment. In the case of the Epic X, the design canvas proves to be ideal for the addition of 26 baguette-cut white diamonds (with an approximate total carat weight of 4.6) to the bezel.
While the gem-setting approach will use differently sized stones depending on their application, the baguette-cut diamonds used in the Epic X Baguette Rose Gold emphasize the rectangular frame of the skeletonized movement. Plus, the expertly finished 18K rose gold case, movement components, and hands raise the eye-candy factor even more.
In this case, a sky-blue rubber honeycomb strap (or alligator strap) holds this masterpiece in place. And, despite its more elegant nature, the Epic X Baguette Rose Gold is also water-resistant, this time to 30 meters (98 feet).
Of course, at 44 x 12.3mm, neither of these timepieces will not go unnoticed on your wrist. But the presentation doesn’t feel overtly attention-getting or blingy. It feels more – ok, I’ll say it – “epic.”
Jacob & Co. Epic X Titanium and Epic X Baguette Rose Gold

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph – Aston Martin Edition

Girard-Perregaux has revealed the second watch in its new partnership with Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph – Aston Martin Edition, the Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition.

The 42mm chronograph plays on both the “Aston Martin Green” shade that has been a signature of the British supercar marque since it won its first Le Mans 24 Hours in 1959, and the “AM” diamond crosshatch design, still used for the stitching of its quilted upholstery.

Girard-Perregaux’s dial makers engraved the crosshatching pattern before applying seven layers of paint.

The case and bracelet are machined from 904L stainless steel, which is the same alloy Rolex used for its steel watches before adopting the Oystersteel name, rather than the more commonly used 316L alloy.

It is also the first Laureato Chronograph to feature an exhibition sapphire crystal caseback, here revealing the automatic in-house Calibre GP03300-0141 chronograph movement and displaying the Aston Martin logo.

“Our Manufacture has a long history of collaborations,” says Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Girard-Perregaux. “Beginning with our founder Jean-François Bautte who brought different “établisseurs” together under one roof, effectively creating one of the first Manufactures as we know them today. Not only has our partnership with Aston Martin yielded two exceptional timepieces now, it is indeed a meeting of the minds and marks the beginnings of a true friendship between both brands and our teams.”
Aston Martin’s racing green looks astoundingly on the latest creation from Swiss luxury watch manufacturer Girard-Perregaux. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph – Aston Martin Edition timepiece is a collaboration between the two iconic brands and is now available worldwide.
Ever since the early 1900s, Aston Martin adopted green as its color for its racing cars, with the famous DBR1 being just one of the iconic examples from the past. It is a color that gave the watch manufacturer a lot of trouble as it applied the paint 21 times to the dial to form seven distinct layers.

Other Aston Martin influences can also be found in this equally functional and exquisite timepiece, such as the familiar diamond-like pattern seen in the car brand’s logo between 1921 and 1926 and in many of the quilted seats of its sports cars.

With three-dial counters (two chronograph registers and a small seconds display) and a small date display positioned at 04:30, the Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition is housed in a 42 mm (1.6 in) 904L stainless steel case, which offers improved corrosion and scratch resistance. It is also brighter and more luxurious in appearance, as explained by the manufacturer.

The limited-edition watch is a mixture of different shapes, finishes, textures, and hues meant to be a celebration of the past while simultaneously embracing the future. Both companies come with extensive know-how in their fields, an experience spanning over three centuries, but while they respect one another’s heritage, they also share a forward-thinking outlook.
Haute Horlogerie watchmaker Girard Perregaux just announced today the release of the Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition, an absolutely stunning version of their already popular Laureato Chronograph. In this case GP has teamed up with Aston Martin Lagonda to create this new offering.

Chronographs in general are in very hot demand this year, along with trending green coloured dials, the combination of both is certainly a winner in watch enthusiast circles. I’ve personally been eyeing the Laureato Chronograph as an alternative to the Rolex Daytona, after all you’re getting haute horlogerie craftsmanship at about half the price of a grey market stainless steel Daytona 116500.
When I saw the new release today from Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph – Aston Martin Edition I was blown away and ready to purchase, but I came to find out this new limited edition is only available in the larger 42mm size, which would be too large for my 6.5 inch wrist. This is literally the only drawback for me personally, but anyone with at least a 6.75 inch wrist and larger should be able to pull this one off just fine.

There’s one massive upgrade on the new Aston Martin limited edition that enthusiasts will love, and that’s the open exhibition caseback which is finally now showcasing the beautiful in-house caliber GP03300. On the regular production models this has always been with a closed caseback.

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Richard Mille RM 074

There’s an assurance to the watches of Richard Mille RM 074, an assurance that comes from the fact that the brand knows they are at the absolute top of their game, and everything is exactly where they want it to be. The construction is impeccable, the materials and their articulation so ridiculously high-tech you feel like you need a degree in advanced physics to understand them fully. And the aesthetics? Well, it’s Richard Mille. The watches exude the brutish beauty that makes them feel like they exist in a slightly parallel dimension, present but otherworldly. The two new additions to Richard Mille’s automatic tourbillon line-up, RM 74-01 and RM 74-02, certainly possess these unique characteristics.
First up, the more sedate of the two new offerings, RM 74-01. This watch, in Richard Mille’s familiar tonneau, is cased in grey Cermet, which combines the lightness of titanium with the hardness of ceramic — a combination which works pretty well on a watch, it must be said. The material is exclusive to Richard Mille in the watch space, and they’ve made the most of it. Inside the stealthy grey case rests the in-house CRMT6 calibre, with electroplasma treated titanium bridges emphasising the long, curvy case and highlighting the tourbillon with a free-sprung balance that dominates the bottom of the dial.
If the RM 74-01 is stealth, the RM 74-02 is pure wealth. The case middle and calibre bridges are 18K red gold, but it’s another gold-flecked material that really makes this watch shine; Gold Carbon TPT. Richard Mille has a long and rich history with Carbon TPT, and this is the latest expression. The material really ticks all the boxes for the brand. It’s lightweight and corrosion resistant, but also incredibly technical. The final material is created by alternating some 600 layers of Carbon TPT and gold leaf, varying the orientation of the fibres by 45 degrees to ensure strength and that pronounced appearance.
Bringing gold into the Carbon TPT mix is particularly challenging, as the properties of the metal are very different, making the process of fusion and finishing a delicate one. The results speak for themselves, as the laminated layers give the RM 74-02 an unmistakable appearance.

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U-BOAT Capsoil Doppiotempo

Originally founded in 1942 as Officine Fontana, the brand was created with an intention to supply watches for the Italian Navy. The watches were well-engineered, with advanced designs to meet the Navy’s technical specifications. The project was forgotten subsequently, as the military contract was not realised. It was only in 2000 where the blueprints were discovered, which subsequently led to the rebirth of the brand.
The U-BOAT Capsoil Doppiotempo is a new model that was first released in 2019. Similar to the other watches from the brand, this timepiece is based off the blueprints that were discovered by the descendants. The only difference is that this was inspired by a watch that was designed specifically for Col Moschin – the Italian Army’s parachute-assault regime. This is unlike the Navy-inspired diver’s watches that the brand is typically known for.
The most conspicuous aspect that points the 43mm watch to its heritage roots is the large ultra-domed sapphire crystal – a signature of watches from the yesteryear. It is rather typical of watch manufacturers to incorporate the curved sapphire crystal into their watches, but we have to admit that U-BOAT’s iteration for the 1938 Doppiotempo works rather well with the thin bezel and the “recessed-like” dial (aided by the chapter bidirectional internal bezel that forms a concave shape with the dial).
The dial of the Doppiotempo is also quite intriguing. The watch features two superimposed dial – one main dial for the usual timekeeping, and a smaller sub-dial for the 24-hour indicator. For the main dial, the watch features the brand’s signature “4, 8, and 12” Arabic numeral indices. There is also an additional inner bidirectional bezel, where it synchronises with the additional red hand to tell the time on a separate time zone.

One of the recurring themes of the watch is its vintage roots, and this is heavily emphasised by the use of beige on the indices, numerals, and hands of the watch. The beige lends the watch a rustic charm, but it is also a reminiscence of the aged materials that are present on the dial.

Notably, the watch is seemed to be produced for the left-handed. The date aperture, for instance, is located at the 9 o’clock position. The same goes for the twin crown, in which one is used for time-adjustments and the other is for rotating the inner bidirectional bezel.
Overall, in terms of the design, we think that the U-BOAT 1938 Doppiotempo is a nice watch. It is not a timepiece for everyone, as some might find it to be a little too messy or cluttered. However, we do think that it is not too much of a problem for us, and that the different functions are rather useful and intuitive as well – especially for the author as his day job requires him to keep track of another time zone as well.
Powering the U-BOAT is an unidentified Swiss movement. For some of the other U-BOAT watches, we have noted that they were fitted with the ETA 2824-2 movement. However, as the specifications were a little different, we do not wish to spend too much time dwelling and speculating on this matter.

The self-winding movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and it boasts a power reserve of 44 hours. As mentioned above, the watch features a date indicator and a dual time zone display. According to the press release, the movement is also personalised to U-BOAT’s specifications – which explains the U-BOAT winding rotor that can been seen via the transparent case-back.

Finishing-wise, the movement is nothing too spectacular. But it is important to note that this is modestly priced watch, and it is more important to focus on its robustness as compared to its decoration techniques. Frankly, it has served us well without a hitch, and we are definitely more than satisfied with its performance during the time when we had the timepiece.
The U-BOAT 1938 Doppiotempo is priced at €1,938 (approximately S$3,078). At this price point, the 1938 Doppiotempo offers tremendous value – considering its complication and its build quality. It was quite a joy to wear this timepiece, and its versatile nature makes it rather compelling as well.

There are certainly some competitors in the field to consider as well. We predominantly narrow it down to vintage-inspired timepieces with a second time zone indicator.

The U-BOAT 1938 Doppiotempo is a nice watch with an interesting provenance to boot. We like the heritage behind it, as well as the functionality of the watch. It is also very well-priced too, which makes it a highly exciting prospect.

Truth to be told, the older U-BOAT watches are not entirely our cup of tea. It is a little too brash and loud, although there are definitely collectors who have a thing for such timepieces. But the 1938 Doppiotempo had changed our mind entirely. This is actually well-made and highly versatile watch. The leather strap is also worth a mention, and we especially like how U-BOAT had additionally included the “Doppiotempo” engraving on it.

The U-boat 1938 Doppiotempo is a hidden gem. We highly recommend collectors to take a look at this watch, especially if one is looking for something that is different from the crowd. It is seriously underrated, and frankly, the brand has got strong potential to do well if it continues to produce such wonderful timepieces.

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U-Boat Darkmoon

The U-Boat Darkmoon collection was officially announced in November 2018. They just released the second iteration of this concept called Darkmoon. This new line takes on a more minimalist approach with a lower entry price, but looking at it, we can’t help thinking about other oily timepieces – because in the watch industry, there is nothing new under the sun, or moon for that matter (watch brands love the moon, especially the dark side for some reason).

Back in 2013, KeepTheTime introduced the liquid-filled Ressence Type 3 at Baselworld. It turns out the the “liquid” was… oil. The Type 3 received mixed reactions from the community, but mostly because of its $30,000 USD price tag. The high retail meant that our video was the closest most watch enthusiasts would get to seeing one in action.
“CAPSOIL goes beyond the boundaries of traditional design, combining innovative features with retro-style lines. The oily liquid flows into the dial making it an absolute and deep black that surprisingly amplifies view of the hands that seem to flow free as in the absence of the glass.” -U-Boat

Although both are oil-filled watches that look futuristic and cool, they cannot be compared from an engineering and design standpoint. The big difference between the Capsoil and the Type 3 (and Type 5) is that the Ressence is a mechanical watch, and the Darkmoon is powered by a $16.95 Swiss quartz movement.
Above is a photo from Amazon of the battery-powered movement visible through an exhibition style caseback. Although, it appears that U-Boat listened to criticism about it being a quartz watch and newer models have a solid caseback with no running seconds hand (making it less obvious that it’s a quartz watch).

The movement is a 2-handed Ronda caliber 712 with a battery life of about 60 months. The dials of the Capsoil/Darkmoon models have red text that reads: Working Between 0/+60 degrees Celsius. Interestingly, the Ronda tech sheets list the operating temperature of the 712 to be 0-50 C.
A quartz movement makes sense, because a mechanical watch will not operate when fully submerged in oil. Ressence was able to overcome this obstacle by inventing a dual-chamber case with oil injected into the upper half and air at the bottom where the movement is housed.

The innovation didn’t stop there. When it launched, the Ressence Type 3’s claim to fame was that it was a crownless watch which is wound and set by rotating the bottom (air-filled) half of the case. The U-Boat Darkmoon isn’t crownless, but they did make it a destro piece by moving the slim crown to the left of the case.
We know from performing DIY oil-filled mods that it is possible to achieve results without an air bubble, but it takes extra time and precision. U-Boat says they intentionally left a bubble of air under the crystal so that the oil can be seen floating around. Perhaps production scalability was part of their decision to leave the bubble, or maybe it’s because the bubble is evidence that there really is oil inside.
The bubble does play well with the no-bezel curved crystal (another element that feels similar to the Ressence), but it’s kind of like having an inverted cyclops from a Panerai floating around under the crystal. Some will really like it, and others will be annoyed at the idea of having a spirit level strapped to the wrist.
The original Capsoil pieces have a door at 3:00 on the case that says Unscrew to Fill Up. It is yet to be seen whether the bubble will get bigger or smaller over time, and how “filling up” will affect it. What we do know is that your local watchmaker most likely won’t want to touch this watch when you drop it off for a new battery, so prepare yourself to hear that it has to go back to U-Boat for service.

Either way, we like how U-Boat Darkmoon has incorporated the bubble into their marketing identity for the Capsoil and Darkmoon lines.
The oil-filled collection is available in a 44mm 2 hand model or a 45mm chronograph. None of the models have a date. They ship out on a 22mm lug-width vulcanised rubber strap with U-BOAT CAPSOIL text. The black dials feature “Old Radium” Super-LumiNova lume on the hands and markers.
The case can be in steel or black DLC. Although it was mentioned above that prices start at $980, that is for the steel DARKMOON model (ref: 8463) with a mineral crystal and 50m water resistance. As a comparison, the DLC chrono (ref: 8109/B) is priced at $2,290 USD with sapphire and a 100m water rating.

Overall, the Darkmoon looks like a fun watch for around $1k and worth checking out. Explore the Capsoil collection here and the new Darkmoon watches here.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver

As of this year, the dive-specific Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver is celebrating its sweet sixteenth with a newly updated reference. It spans three new colorways and represents the biggest evolution for the ROO Diver – ROOD? – since the model graduated from being the Offshore Scuba (which originally launched in 2005) to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver. The new 2021 models are rocking a more modern movement, tool-less push-button strap changing, and several small but noteworthy design tweaks.
To tackle the elephant in the room, no, the size has not changed. The new reference 15720ST retains the 42mm sizing of the standard Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver, along with its uncommon two-crown layout, display caseback, 300 meters of water resistance, and a time/date feature set.
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Available from launch in “Trailblazing Khaki,” “Navy Blue,” and “Pristine Grey,” each version has a steel case and comes with a second strap so owners can try the new quick-change system right out of the box. The system is fully integrated into the back of the two short intermediate lugs used to match the strap to the case. Simply press the button and release the strap (see the above photo).

Audemars Piguet plans to offer a range of straps and, alongside the pair that comes with the watch, the brand already has a trio of calfskin leather straps that conform to the new swappable design.
Inside, and forming one of the more major elements of this update, we find Audemars Piguet’s modern caliber 4308, a beautifully finished automatic movement with central seconds, a date display, a rate of 4 Hz, and a power reserve of 60 hours. Visible through the Royal Oak Offshore Diver’s display caseback, the 4308 also featured a black-finished 22k pink gold winding rotor.
Other updates include changes to the dial, including new markers and an “AP” signature (in gold) rather than the full brand name common to previous iterations of the ROO Diver.
As an exercise in evolving an already successful and qualified design, the new 15720ST looks like a subtle and thoughtful take on the Royal Oak Offshore Diver form. The original black-dial model that was announced in 2010 has long been a dream watch for me, and these new versions look every bit as appealing, especially given the interesting colorways (Pristine Grey for me, please) and the interchangeable straps.

Any of the three can be yours as early as May assuming you’ve got $25,400 and a good friend at the boutique. But please – pretty please – just promise me that if you get one, you’ll also take it for a swim every once in a while. After all