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Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Flyback Tourbillon Platinum

With the new Senator Chronometer Tourbillon Premiere, Glashütte Original is launching a world first with its patented Flyback Tourbillon. Following the invention of the tourbillon by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, a significant improvement to this Haute Horlogerie feat only came after more than a century when Alfred Helwig, a master watchmaker and instructor at the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte, designed the first flying tourbillon in 1920.

With this innovative architecture, the tourbillon was anchored on one side only, thus freeing it from the upper part of its cage and offering an unobstructed view of the mechanism.

Now, the Glashütte Original’s watchmakers have succeeded in innovating and improving the behaviour of the tourbillon. When the crown is pulled out, a vertical clutch halts the balance and locks the tourbillon cage in place. When the crown is pulled to its next position and held there, the tourbillon cage swings up smoothly until the second hand at the tip of the cage comes to a stop at the zero marker, performing a fascinating dance of precision mechanics. Two patents protect this unique construction, emphasizing Glashütte Original’s position as a prominent innovator in Haute Horlogerie.

The Senator Chronometer Tourbillon is further distinguished by an innovative minute detent. When the Flyback Tourbillon is set to zero, the minute hand simultaneously moves ahead to the next index. This synchronization of the second and minute hands permits the time to be set with great precision, as one can hear and feel the minute hand jump from one index to the next. In order to put the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon’s rate precision to the ultimate test, each watch is examined by the independent Thuringian Weights and Measures Office to ensure it meets the DIN 8319 official chronometer standard. In the process, the watches undergo a test lasting 15 days, during which they must establish their reliability in five different positions and at three different temperatures.

The Chronometer Certificate, delivered with each watch in a fine white oak box, serves as official recognition of the most accurate timepieces of a given generation. In addition, the silicon balance spring protects the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon against the influence of magnetic fields and changes in temperature.

The manual winding Calibre 58-06 runs at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour and has a 70-hour power reserve, with its indicator at 9 o’clock being easily readable at a glance. The 572-part movement, visible from the front within the 42 mm x 12.6 mm platinum case, reveals just how the Flyback Tourbillon functions. The cleverly designed control mechanism, for example, is visible to the naked eye, as is the damping wheel, which ensures a smooth upward movement when the tourbillon is reset.  The dial and tourbillon cage are mounted upon two small towers over the movement. The dial carrier conceals an engraving at 12 o’clock that reflects the lettering “Chronometer Tourbillon” on the mirror-polished inner wall of the case.  The day/night display behind the transparent part of the dial has the heavenly bodies, sun and moon, complete their orbits around the spherical axis once every 24 hours. A Clous de Paris pattern further enhances the three-dimensional look of the ensemble.

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hermes carre h watch

For 2023, Hermès joined the expanding roster of SIHH brands for the first time and reintroduced their Carré H watch with a new dial design, size, and updated movement for the occasion. With a square but rounded case, the hermes carre h watch for 2018 aims for a distinctive presence that will appeal to fans of Hermès fashion, but also some horological cred for picky watch snobs. This has been Hermès’ general approach to watches for years now. You will have to be the final judge of their success, but here are our hands-on impressions of the hermes carre h watch.
One might not realize sometimes just how ambitious a non-round-cased watch can be and how difficult it is to get right. You see the very few “iconic” successes a lot, but naturally, you don’t see much of the many, many others. Carré means “square” in French, and it is also the name of other product lines from Hermès such as women’s scarves. The Hermès Carré H watch for 2018 is 38mm wide in steel and square-shaped with kind of wire-style lugs and a round dial design. The original Hermès Carré H from 2010 designed by designer/architect Marc Berthier was 36.5mm wide in titanium with a squarer dial, and it cost almost double this version. See the 2010 version and more background along with our initial coverage of the 2018 Hermès Carré H watch here. The new 2018 Hermès Carré H is also designed by Berthier, I believe, and it is not the brand’s only attempt at a square/rectangular/non-round watch design that will stick – our hands-on with the Hermès Cape Cod watches here, for example. Personally, first impressions of the 2018 hermes carre h watch immediately conjured a number of other watches for me. From dead-on, it was inevitably the well-known shape of Bell & Ross’ square cases, and I couldn’t quite put my finger on what the dial reminded me of – and then I remembered these also design-driven Gorilla watches with the combination of squarish case, round dial, and large double-digit numerals all around. The rounded caseback plus the lug shape said (oh no!) “Apple Watch” – and, of course, there is the further connection that Hermès makes straps and exclusive faces for the Apple Watch. Note, however, when making that comparison, that these traits were present in the Hermès Carré H in 2010, well before the Apple Watch existed. The Hermès Carré H straps measure 21mm where they meet the lugs, but Hermès’ straps that have the more common measurements of 22mm (for the 42mm Apple Watch) or 20mm (for the 38mm Apple Watch) might even fit since the lugs’ bended corners seem give some leeway. What is distinctive and elegant about the case profile, however, is that it curves subtly, and the lugs are angled downwards to follow the arc. Above, these were called “wire” lugs, but they are in fact angular and appear well integrated and executed – they have also been compared to towel racks. Thanks to the aforementioned curves and rounded edges, the Hermès Carré H wears very comfortably even though it is not among the brand’s thinner watches. At 38mm wide, we will again remind you that square watches wear larger than the same measurements would suggest for a round watch, so the Hermès Carré H has a definite presence on the wrist. Leather is the brand’s forte, of course, so the straps are also going to be some of the best in the business, and there will be a range of choices too. These straps come with a buckle designed to match the case’s angles and bead-blasted finish, and they reflect Hermès’ expertise in belts. The next thing that catches the eye are the hands – which I rather like, especially the hour hand’s arrow. The red (on the black dial version) or yellow (on the gray dial) seconds hand with its prominent counterweight also stands out, and works to tie the other elements of the dial together, in my mind. The dial texture is pleasing and functional, as the lumed hour and minute hands are pretty legible against it. Also lumed are the prominent, applied numerals that are in a font designed especially for this watch – they are all in double digits for dial balance and a slightly sporty vibe. Brands such as Hermès that come from a fashion and couture background should be expected to approach hermes carre h watch from a fresh perspective that’s a bit different from the traditional watch industry. If they didn’t add that personality and identity, how would their watches stand out or compete? Hermès always has a touch of the fun and whimsical in their design, but before being distracted by the aesthetic alone, let us remind you that they have their own manufacturers of dials, cases, and movements – the movements, through Vaucher in Fleurier, Switzerland, who Hermès acquired a 25% stake in and who continue to make high-end movements for a variety of third parties. The H1912 movement, on display at the caseback, is made exclusively for Hermès by Vaucher and was introduced in 2012 as the first the brand could claim as an “in-house” movement (alongside the H1837 at the same time). The automatic H1912 has fairly standard specs, operating at 4Hz with a power reserve of 50 hours, and offering three-hand time telling – but it is more interesting than a common stock movement, for sure, and it is decorated with Hermès’ characteristic “H” pattern on its bridges and rotor. The movement does offer a date also, as in the Cape Cod watches (linked to above), but as per the apparent taste of many collectors, it has been omitted here. The 2010 hermes carre h watch used a Girard Perregaux/Sowind GP3200 movement.

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Hermes Galop d’Hermes

It is a transformed stirrup. A dreamlike arch. A futuristic space vessel. Flowing and luminous, it plays with time. It is the new Hermes Galop d’Hermès watch. “More than a piece of jewellery and more than a watch, Galop d’Hermès is a style object devoid of any formalism. It is free-spirited, witty and passionate.” It’s almost nothing, yet it changes everything. In the Hermès watchmaking workshops, a choreography of controlled actions led by skilled hands polish and smooth cases. Dials are crafted and then given their colour. Straps are made using the finest leather and Hermès expertise. All Hermès craftsmen are virtuosos with the materials they shape.
Created by Hermès perfumer Christine Nagel in 2006, Hermes Galop d’Hermès watch is inspired by the equestrian universe and embodies freedom of movement: “At Hermès, I discovered the true femininity of leather. I composed Galop d’Hermès like a painting with two materials emblematic to Hermès and to perfumery: leather and rose.”
“At Hermès I discovered all the femininity of leather. I composed Hermes Galop d’Hermès watch like a painting with two main colours… Two raw materials that are emblematic to Hermès and to perfumery: leather and rose.”
Christine Nagel

Hermes Galop d’Hermès watch is a contemporary manifesto that expresses absolute freedom in feminine expression and in a perfume. The leather livens up the rose and the rose carries away the leather in a fiery dance.

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Hermès Heure H Double Jeu

Have you seen it? Do you still see it? The H playing hide and seek, vanishing, the better to reveal itself. At times concealed and at others highlighted, it disappears so as to reappear more clearly. The Hermès Heure H Double Jeu plays with the codes of Hermès’ identity. In its vertical-set version, the capital letter is boldly enhanced with diamonds, while in the horizontal setting, it slips away, its lines softened. A joyful sleight of hand that reinvents the spirit of the Heure H watch, designed in 1996 by Philippe Mouquet.
Playful and contemporary, the Heure H Double Jeu watch carries within its square the paradox of lacquer and diamonds. Its steel case celebrates contrasts. In black or white lacquer, it is reinvented through two graphic compositions that subtly stage the letter H. Whether vertically adorned with 122 diamonds or embellished in its horizontal version with 93 diamonds framing a dial also set with 138 diamonds, it skilful double jeu that either accentuates the recreation_ extends an invitation to temporal recreation by playing with tones and luminescence. A H or merely hints at it. The Hermès Heure H Double Jeu black Barénia or white grained calf- skin strap, enlarged by 3 mm on either side, merges with the dial in a simple tour around the wrist. Have you seen it? Do you still see it? The loop forms an H recalling the graphic totem of this watch. Hermès creates objects shaped by artisans to make them true companions for those who wear them. Practical, functional and stem- ming from uncompromising expertise, they radiate the lightness of the unexpected. They make everyday life their playground, and each instant a uniquely special moment. For Hermès Heure H Double Jeu, time is also an object. Its inher- ent tension is translated by the house into a singular characteristic. Rather than meas- uring, ordering, and seeking to control it, Hermès dares to explore another time, designed to arouse emotions, open up inter- ludes and create spaces for spontaneity and recreation. The Hermès Heure H Double Jeu is thus the custodian of a companionable, enduring and joyous vision of time.

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Hermes Heure H TGM

The Hermes Heure H watch offers a timekeeping experience that can be endlessly customized and transformed. There are tons of case sizes to choose from, different straps and bracelet types, as well as classic and special colors and materials. Regardless of your style, if you love diversifying your accessories, the Hermes Heure H watch is a fantastic choice to add to your collection, effectively giving you “multiple watches” in one.

The Hermes Heure H watch comes in 4 different case sizes. From smallest to largest, Hermes Heure H case sizes are the Mini model (21mm), the Small model (25mm), the Medium model (30mm), and the Large model (34mm). Hermes records their Heure H watch case sizes using the lug-to-lug height measurement. The actual case diameter is what FASHIONPHILE goes by. If you know your Hermes case size, you can cross-reference the chart below whenever browsing Heure H watches at FASHIONPHILE. It is helpful to know which case size you have as that will guage which interchangeable strap size to buy.

Hermes Heure H watch cases are skillfully fashioned from stainless steel, available in both silver and gold-plated options, with some featuring a diamond-encrusted bezel for added luxury. The watch face, also referred to as the dial, typically features numerical hour markers, though some variations may lack them entirely or have only the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock positions marked. These subtle nuances cater to your personal preferences.

Aside from case sizes, the Hermes Heure H watch also has various straps and bracelet options. There are standard tour straps made of leather and double tour straps, which coil around your wrist multiple times to create a bolder and more pronounced look. For a dressier look, there are bracelets made of steel.

The leather tour straps on Hermes Heure H watch are interchangeable and can be removed, allowing you to transform your watch with new materials and colors! However, it’s advised to bring any Heure H steel watch to a trusted horologist to change up those – but they are interchangeable. If you need a size adjustment, the Hermes After Sales Specialists located in Hermes boutiques are always happy to assist!

Hermes regularly updates its inventory of Heure H leather watch straps, so if you have a particular item in mind, it’s advisable to check their website periodically or keep in touch with your Sales Associate (SA). Alternatively, for a more efficient option, consider setting up an item alert with FASHIONPHILE, and you’ll receive immediate notifications when we have the item you’re seeking in stock.  With the case sizes, bracelet, and strap options, the fun part is knowing all the colors and materials that you can choose from for your Hermes Heure H watch! Predominantly, leather straps come in Epsom, Swift, and shiny or matte alligator. These interchangeable straps also come with a steel pin buckle so make sure to note the color of your case so it matches your new steel pin buckle!

As for Hermes colors, the sky is the limit! As you know Hermes colors are vast and depending on the material you choose, the color can come out differently. Epsom, Swift, and alligator absorb color dyes differently.

While the Hermes Heure H watch is a chic timekeeping accessory, it also has so many options for personalization. From various case sizes to bracelet types as well as different colors and materials to choose from.

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Hermès Nantucket TPM

Downsizing does not mean simplifying, as is admirably demonstrated by the now extremely dainty Nantucket watch. At its birth in 1991, it featured an elongated case with the “anchor chain” motif dreamed up by Henri d’Origny, who Hermès Nantucket TPM had been asked to design a square shape. In the latest instalment of a resolutely rebellious creative saga, this Très Petit Modèle (17 x 32 mm) further accentuates the outline of the original drawing. Available in steel and opaline silver-toned dial or gem-set rose gold and natural white mother-of-pearl dial versions, Hermès Nantucket TPM is teamed with single or double wrap-around straps available in alligator or calfskin and in a wide range colours. Diamonds break out of the mould as the miniature Nantucket appears in a whirl of sparkling radiance. At its birth in 1991, this model was fitted with a rectangular case featuring the “Anchor Chain” motif created by Henri d’Origny who had been asked to design a square shape. Continuing the saga of an aesthetic rebellion, this “Très Petit Modèle” further accentuates the outline of the original design and celebrates diamonds for daily wear, dotted around as if the wind had scattered them across the Hermès Nantucket TPM watch. Nantucket thus becomes a relaxed piece of daytime jewellery.

Designed with a steel case and a rhodium-plated sand-coloured dial, this Hermès Nantucket TPM watch, driven by a quartz movement, is fitted with a choice of single tour alligator straps in smooth ember or matt étoupe, Mykonos blue, cactus green, abysse blue, black variations.

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Hermes Arceau L’heure de la lune moon

Continuing its tradition of creating watches that combine interesting mechanics with whimsical ideas, Hermès has released one of the coolest moonphase watches I’ve ever seen. The Hermes Arceau L’Heure De La Lune presents a pair of stationary mother-of-pearl moons with a complementary pair of floating lacquer dials floating over the top that rotate around the dial once every 59 days, covering and uncovering the moons to to indicate the current moon phase in both the southern and northern hemispheres at once. One of the floating dials shows the hours and minutes, while the other counts the date. Hermès has further amplified the dreamy effect by inverting the moons, with the the top one showing the southern hemisphere and the lower one the northern hemisphere. Finally, the moons show different designs, with the lower moon featuring a transfer of the luner surface on top and the upper moon baring a subtle pegasus motif by artist and designer Dimitri Rybaltchenko (a work he calls “Pleine Lune” or “Full Moon”). You have a choice of two executions, one with a meteorite dial and graduated grey lacquered discs and the other with an aventurine dial and white lacquered discs – both utilize the same 43mm white gold Arceau case. Each version is limited to 100 numbered pieces.

You’re probably wondering at this point how this unusual complication works. Inside is an Hermès caliber H1837 movement fitting with a module called the Hermes Arceau L’Heure De La Lune that was designed specifically to create this display. The module alone requires over 100 components and is 38mm across (which is the resulting “wingspan” of the rotating discs), and there is currently a patent pending for the mechanism. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune debuted a little over a year ago at SIHH 2019 and was one of the stars of the show. It combines technical mastery with artistic flourish in a way that’s quintessentially Hermès, and this was one of those watches that people stopped to look at in the windows every time they passed the brand’s booth. I count myself among them. The Hermes Arceau L’Heure De La Lune watch uses an Hermès in-house movement as a base for an exclusive complication that has a pair of discs showing the hours/minutes and date that spin over a dial with two mother-of-pearl moons. The result is a dual moon phase indicator that shows both the northern and southern hemispheres at once. It playfully reverses the usual hierarchy of displays on a watch dial and does so extremely effectively.

This year, we’re getting five new versions of the Hermes Arceau L’Heure De La Lune. They’re technically identical to last year’s two pieces, measuring in at 43mm and utilizing the same movement and module, but with new dial options. First up are two blue-tinted models, one with a dial of Lapis Lazuli and one utilizing a hard stone called Blue Pearl. The other three are made of real meteorite, with Lunar meteorite, Black Sahara meteorite, and Martian meteorite on offer. Yeah, that’s right – you can wear a sliver of the Moon or Mars on your wrist, elevating this watch’s concept to the next level. Meteorite dials are not uncommon these days, but Lunar meteorites are much more scarce, and I definitely haven’t seen a Martian meteorite available on a watch before.

The Blue Pearl and Lapis Lazuli versions are additions to the main collection, while the meteorite dials are all limited editions. The Lunar and Black Sahara versions are limited to 36 pieces each, while the Martian version is limited to just two (yes, two!) pieces with price only available on request. The Hermes Arceau L’Heure De La Lune has quite a few fans at HODINKEE, including Stephen Pulvirent and myself, and if you spend a little time with the watch and have anything like a romantic streak, you will probably find it quite captivating as well. The moon-phase complication in any form always has a whiff of the whimsical and pleasantly otherworldly about it, and the version of the complication used by Hermès is no exception.

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Hermès Arceau TGM Manufacture

Hermès Arceau TGM Manufacture has been on a pretty strong roll the last few years, introducing both new movements and new watches, most of which have been extremely strong. From the basic Slim d’Hermès to the perpetual calendar Slim to the more romantic complications, there’s been a lot to enjoy from the famed Parisian luxury house. And with this latest introduction, Hermès shows no signs of slowing down.

The pair of Hermès Arceau TGM Manufacture watches we have here are two variations of the Arceau Très Grand Modèle. The name really says it all here. We have the classic Arceau, which was first designed for Hermès by Henri d’Origny back in 1991, only in a “very large” (or très grand in French) size. The defining features of the Arceau are the swooping numerals, which curve as they go around the dial, adding some dynamism to the mix, and those semi-wire lugs that curve out from the round, slim-bezeled case. Both are intact here, and the new models look every bit the part of classic Arceau models, just with different colors and finishes. The first new Arceau Très Grand Modèle has a 40mm steel case paired with an elegant hazelnut brown dial. The dial features a stamped chevron pattern in the center and a sunburst finish on the chapter ring, which in turn has applied gold Arabic numerals in the classic Arceau style. The contrasting patterns make the dial look two-tone even though the color is even throughout. There’s a matching date window down at six o’clock, otherwise we have a simple two-hand layout here. The strap is a matching etoupe matte alligator Hermès strap that works perfectly with the rest of the watch.

Inside is the caliber H1837, which Hermès Arceau TGM Manufacture is the standard in-house automatic movement from Hermès. It has a full rotor (unlike the micro-rotor movement that powers the Slim d’Hermès watches) and is comprised of 193 total components. The power reserve is a reasonable 50 hours and the decoration is a mix of more traditional finishes and the signature Hermès H motif.
The other model introduced here starts with the same steel case, but utilizes a blue lacquered dial with an even sunburst finish and silvered Arabic numerals around the outer edge. Again, there’s a matching “Abyss blue” matte alligator strap and a date window that matches with the dial too.

The biggest difference with this model though is inside – there’s a Swiss quartz movement powering this Hermès Arceau TGM Manufacture watch instead of the mechanical H1837. While I understand Hermès wanting to hit multiple price points, it would have been nice to see both colors available with both movements – this blue dial with a mechanical movement would be quite the show stopper.

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Hermes Arceau Squelette

Hermes Arceau Squelette timepiece, designed by its longtime artistic director Henri d’Origny in 1978, is perhaps the watch that best expresses the brand’s historical roots as a saddle maker: its asymmetrical lugs are shaped like stirrups and the sloping font of it hour numerals evoke the silhouettes of galloping horses. This year, Hermès unveils a new edition of the Arceau that also elegantly demonstrates the maison’s watchmaking expertise: the Arceau Squelette. The Arceau Squelette’s rounded, 40-mm steel case houses a skeletonized self-winding movement and frames a smoked, sapphire dial through which that mechanism can be glimpsed. The Hermes Arceau Squelette dial is deep black on its outer edges, gradating to a transparent center, and features a beaded minute circle and silvered, openworked numerals in the signature Arceau style. Visible beneath the slim, lance-shaped hour and minute hands are the movement’s bridges, its wheels with anthracite treatment, and its openworked oscillating weight. The Hermès Arceau Squelette is attached via its hallmark stirrup lugs to a matte-black alligator leather strap from Hermès’s own atelier and fastens to the wrist with a steel pin buckle. It is priced at $8,600 and available via the Hermès website as well as authorized dealers.
The Hermes Arceau Squelette is one of the company’s older watch designs, going back to 1978, but the execution we have here is something entirely new. The classic form has been fitted with a skeletonized movement and a smoked black sapphire dial to show off the new caliber. The rest of the package is pretty familiar – 40mm stainless-steel case, the distinctive swirling numerals, and, of course, a killer Hermès strap (in your choice of a few colors) finishing things off. Some people knock watchmakers for “variations,” but this is very much a case of, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”

Those few design changes do make a big difference, though. To me, the Hermes Arceau Squelette has always had a certain crispness about it, with the lithe hands, the fine lines of the numerals, and the clean shape of the case. This watch still has those things, but the multi-layer effect of the crystal, gradient-smoked sapphire dial, and open movement underneath adds a bit of cloudiness and extra depth. The watch has a totally new dimension. It’s making its way into Hermès boutiques now, and while it’s not a limited edition, production is limited on the new model.

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Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune

Continuing its tradition of creating watches that combine interesting mechanics with whimsical ideas, Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune has released one of the coolest moonphase watches I’ve ever seen. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune presents a pair of stationary mother-of-pearl moons with a complementary pair of floating lacquer dials floating over the top that rotate around the dial once every 59 days, covering and uncovering the moons to to indicate the current moon phase in both the southern and northern hemispheres at once. One of the floating dials shows the hours and minutes, while the other counts the date. Hermès has further amplified the dreamy effect by inverting the moons, with the the top one showing the southern hemisphere and the lower one the northern hemisphere. Finally, the moons show different designs, with the lower moon featuring a transfer of the luner surface on top and the upper moon baring a subtle pegasus motif by artist and designer Dimitri Rybaltchenko (a work he calls “Pleine Lune” or “Full Moon”). You have a choice of two executions, one with a meteorite dial and graduated grey lacquered discs and the other with an aventurine dial and white lacquered discs – both utilize the same 43mm white gold Arceau case. Each version is limited to 100 numbered pieces.

You’re probably wondering at this point how this unusual complication works. Inside is an Hermès caliber H1837 movement fitting with a module called the “Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune” that was designed specifically to create this display. The module alone requires over 100 components and is 38mm across (which is the resulting “wingspan” of the rotating discs), and there is currently a patent pending for the mechanism. I’ll admit it: I actually let out an audible “Whoa!” when this one landed in my inbox. I’m already a big fan of what Hermès does, on both the more classic side and the more idiosyncratic side, and this one does not disappoint at all. If you told me about this Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune watch or only handed me a spec sheet, I think I’d probably assume the watch to be a little too over-the-top despite the fun idea, however Hermès has executed an already great idea with great skill too, resulting in a watch that’s beautiful in both concept and form. There’s the natural beauty of the meteorite, aventurine, and mother of pearl, sure, but I think it’s the way the various colors and textures interact that makes this one really sing – it’s all about subtle contrasts and mirrored forms. I’m not sure which of the two I prefer – I keep going back and forth – but if you asked me today I’d have to go with the meteorite version. The fact that the watch looks just a little bit different each day you wear it is awesome and I enjoy the idea of a dramatic but slow complication.

To come back down to Earth for a minute (get it?), a 43mm white gold Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune watch is probably a little more than my relatively small wrist can handle, and the Arceau L’Heure De La Lune is a lot of look to sport every day too, but that doesn’t make me wish I could rock one of these any less. Now if there were only a desk clock version I might be in business…