Evidently, not this month. Just when we thought maybe the good folks at AP would lay back, take a breather, have a nice glass of Bordeaux—whatever—they drop five more new models. With picks from the CODE 11.59 and Royal Oak collections, there’s something for everyone…so long as you like your watches complicated. Like, highly complicated, with calendars and chronographs and tourbillons and and GMTs and all manner of fun horological stuff.
If this isn’t one of the coolest expressions of the AP CODE 11.59 collection since its 2019 debut, I will eat my hat. (I don’t actually own a hat so joke’s on you, but you get it.) What we have here is a highly sophisticated flying tourbillon counterbalanced with an understated case and dial — a very, very chic dial. The 41mm case itself is 18K white gold with a black ceramic midcase; a thin bezel and a double-curved sapphire crystal frame a black onyx face devoid of conventional hour markers. Instead, a printed, pink gold-toned minute track graces the inner bezel, while pink gold hands and a laser cut, pink gold “Audemars Piguet” signature join the tourbillon case, which showcases the pulsating balance wheel within. Powering the watch is the automatic Calibre 2950 with 65 hours of power reserve.
In keeping with the gold-and-ceramic theme, check this out: A pink gold and black ceramic automatic chronograph with tourbillon. Housed in a 41mm 18K pink gold case with a black ceramic midcase, this 50-piece limited edition’s bi-color livery is complemented by a black outer minute track, a skeletonized dial, a dual-register chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers, and a tourbillon at 6 o’clock. The automatic Calibre 2952 with its 40 jewels and mind-boggling 479 components is a thing of stunning beauty, boasting a pink gold oscillating weight and flyback functionality. Contrasting white gold hands maintain legibility, but truthfully, if you’re rocking this thing, you’re probably a masked superhero fighting crime by day and attending fundraisers at night. And at that point — who cares what time it is?
Prefer something a bit more avant-garde in your tourbillons? Ok, we get that. How about this new Flying Tourbillon Openworked with an insane, bright blue 41mm ceramic and 18K white gold case housing a hand-wound, skeletonized movement? Limited to just 50 pieces, this wildly cool reference features a blue ceramic midcase, a blue minute track, and a blue, rubber-coated strip lined with calfskin leather. 18K pink gold hands and pink gold accents on the movement add small burst of contrast, but the Calibre 2948 is the real star of the show: Composed of several layers, it features an openworked mainplate and bridges, multiple finishes, and 196 different parts. Feel like showing off a bit, but not in a gaudy way? This is the watch to do it with.
A new 37 mm version of the 39 mm “Jumbo” AP Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3, which debuted earlier this year, has been released in a snazzy purple dial, in case you need extra emphasis that you own one. This marks the first time a flying tourbillon has been introduced in a smaller millimeter size thanks to the ultra-thin Caliber 2968, which took five years to develop and measures 3.4 mm thick. The new sizing and color (the 39 mm version comes in a Navy dial) will appeal to an entirely new audience—both those with smaller wrist sizes and those who simply prefer watches that wear a touch smaller. Rest assured, these won’t be available for long.
Speaking of superheroes, the Royal Oak Concept actually is a superhero’s watch; AP partnered with Marvel on the AP Black Panther edition of its futuristic tourbillon timepiece back in April of 2021. The latest version, however, is somewhat more subdued, featuring a green ceramic bezel, crown, and pushers paired to a green rubber strap. The 44mm titanium case architecture, with its contemporary, sandblasted aesthetic and highly faceted design, remains, while the black, hand-wound Calibre 2954 provides a GMT complication in addition to a tourbillon, plus a function selector and an impressive 10-day power reserve via twin barrels. Looking like a military watch from the future, the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT is a complicated masterwork from a maison that’s constantly pushing the design envelope.
Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Stainless Steel Cathay Pacific
Cathay Pacific has partnered with Swiss luxury watchmaker Breitling to celebrate Cathay’s 76th anniversary, by co-curating the Breitling Navitimer chronograph with new design touches. Breitling’s Navitimer chronograph has been synonymous with travel and style since it first debuted in 1952. To celebrate the 70th anniversary of this iconic timepiece, Breitling is releasing a new collection of the Navitimer for 2022.
The collaboration has unveiled an exclusive design limited to just 200 individually numbered pieces: the Navitimer B01 Cathay Pacific limited edition. It also marks Cathay’s own 76th anniversary, and pays tribute to its rich aviation history and elevation into a premium travel lifestyle brand.
In the video ad, the Navitimer features an integrated slide rule which enabled essential flight calculations long before flight computers arrived on board. The 43mm collector’s model features the unique Navitimer design, updated for the modern age, whereas Cathay Pacific’s identity has been incorporated, with its signature Jade green on the watch face, and the words “Cathay Pacific Edition”, its individual number out of 200 engraved around the display caseback.
The Cathay Jade face contrasts with the white subdials and brown alligator leather strap – a warm, nostalgic look that renders this timepiece as suited to everyday wear as it is for the skies.New design touches for the 2022 Navitimer include a domed sapphire crystal, evolved slide rule, contrasting polished and brushed finishings, and a redesigned display caseback which reveals the workings of the in-house, COSC-certified Caliber 01 chronograph movement. One particular detail of note for aviation fans is the return of the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association logo which graced the original 1952 chronograph.
Previously in March this year, Cathay Pacific partnered with Hong Kong label Native Union to launch a collection of tech accessories. According to Cathay, the limited edition accessories are inspired by Hong Kong and the way its people live. The collection includes a universal belt cable, wireless charger, AirPods Pro Case, and an organiser pouch. The lifestyle tech accessories collection will be retailed on the airline’s Asia Miles web shop.
This is not Cathay’s first venture with home-grown brands. Last year, Cathay and lifestyle brand Goods Of Desire launched a collaborative collection in celebration of their 75th and 25th anniversary respectively. The collection featured upcycled merchandise made from hundreds of Cathay cabin crew and cockpit uniforms.
Delve into the regional perspectives on common PR challenges today with MARKETING-INTERACTIVE’s PR Asia 2022. Join us on 9 November for a power-packed programme as we gather Asia’s top PR and communication practitioners in-person in Malaysia. Deep dive into the next necessary steps for PR as we head towards 2022. Register today to learn and connect with the PR gurus in the region Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Stainless Steel Cathay Pacific!
Bell and Ross BR X1 Chronograph
Bell & Ross BR-X1 chronograph are not entirely unlike a rock band, in that where many set out to achieve greatness and immortality, only a very select few actually manage to break through to the mainstream and become a successful act with its own distinctive sound. Such a link might seem tenuous, but in the case of most enduring bands and artists their music is immediately identifiable, and if Bell & Ross have a trademark ‘sound’, it would surely have to be their square-cased, round-faced BR 01 (& 03) Instrument series.
Originally designed in the image of flight deck instrumentation, the BR 01 series was a watch like no other. It was not particularly glamorous nor dressy in any sense, but what it lacked in beauty, it made up for as a robust, durable, highly legible and multi-practical piece of kit – which ultimately would find favour with special forces and professionals to whom time was a critical factor, and where reliability and functionality took precedent over classic good looks.
Now, in 2014, approaching its tenth year of production, and with over one hundred variations of the Instrument watch now available, from the weird and wonderful to the purely functional, the iconic square design welcomes a new addition to the family. Bell & Ross claim that every one of their collections have been inspired by the most significant eras in military history and for the new Instrument, the company have taken the futuristic experimental Bell X1 rocket plane from 1947 as its inspiration, and at the same time have carried off another ‘hit’ in the making: the Bell & Ross BR-X1 chronograph. It was launched in Paris this week.
Based around its skeletonised automatic self winding movement, revealed beneath a smoked sapphire dial, the Bell & Ross BR-X1 chronograph breathes new life into the tried and tested formula. Whereas in previous guises the Instrument (tourbillon or skulls excluded) was just that, an instrument, the use of brighter brushed titanium for the rehaut and outer dial, subdial ring and hands, combined with a soupçon of red, adds a new exciting technical-looking element to the mix.
SuperLumiNova applications to the hands and elongated appliqué hour indices, which protrude over the mechanism, ensure excellent readability in day or low light environments. Small seconds feature at the 3 o’clock position on a printed counter, and further on around at the 6, the date is displayed through an aperture in the smoked dial. The 30-minute chronograph counter uses a black four-bladed aluminium disc resembling a turbine with a red highlight for reference, which works really well here.
Constructed from lightweight but supremely durable materials such as its 45mm brushed titanium case, protective rubber corner fenders, ceramic lug mounts, red ceramic pushers, that red rubber grip at the 9, and of course the rubber strap, the combination of textures and colour means the BR-X1 jumps out instantly, catching the attention and making almost the same impact as its original did almost ten years before. The fusion of high-tech materials and manufacturing processes with the influences of the experimental space-age flight results in a timepiece that is not only a smart sports watch, but also one which would not look out of place in the cockpit instrument panel of any boy’s imagined space ship, and that is pretty hard to pull off successfully.
Bell and Ross BR0192-HERITAGE
The BR 01 (BR01) watch collection is probably the most iconic timepiece of the Bell & Ross brand, and one of the most influential timepieces of last decade. Exactly where did it come from and why is it so popular? Bell & Ross as a brand is highly inspired by the German brand Sinn. In fact, one of the founders of Bell & Ross worked at Sinn, and early Bell & Ross watches were actually Sinn watches that were dual branded.
Sinn is sort of the anti-Swiss watch in theme. The brand offers high-quality tool and professional-use watches that are reasonably priced and have zero lifestyle marketing behind them. I believe at the time, the new Bell and Ross BR0192-HERITAGE brand saw an opportunity to market the Sinn concept to a more lifestyle and fashion oriented demographic, while retaining the core look and functionality that made Sinn what they were.
Soon after having success with offering Sinn watches in a new way Bell & Ross quickly started to develop its own personality and was among the first high-end watch brands that I recall ever noticing and lusting for. Born from historic military watches and functional instruments, the brand then (about 10 years ago), and now is still easy to love. A major part of that reason is that the majority of Bell & Ross watches feature very refined designs and dials that are often extremely easy to read. The mission of the brand was to offer a good-looking watch that said the people wearing them had good, but conservative taste, and weren’t afraid to get their hands dirty when necessary.
Using Swiss movements, Bell and Ross BR0192-HERITAGE is a contemporary French company. Even their “vintage” models have a fresh feel, while the brand’s entire collection is modern through and through. How did Bell & Ross manage to retain this look while featuring a collection that is mostly aimed at the past for inspiration? I think it has to do with restraint. Design restraint. Most Bell & Ross watch designs are simple at first glance. There are a few key design features that make each piece what it is – without going overboard. I can only guess that this type of design process is difficult because rather than adding features designers often need to strip them away.
I mention all this because in my opinion it is particularly salient to the BR 01 models. The BR 01 is a watch based on the look of an airplane cockpit dashboard clock. Im fact, you could probably use it as one. The square case is modeled after the modular design of cockpit instruments complete with retention screws. Go in any number of airplane cockpits and you’ll see where the design came from. The design includes large hands, easy to see hour numerals, and perfect contrast.
The purest BR 01 design when it comes to honoring these plane clocks is the BR 01-92 Carbon. Black coated metal is preferred in cockpits because it does not reflect light that may hinder visibility. Also a black and white dial offers the best contrast for legibility. This model also removes the date window which was offered on other BR 01-92 models. Just the time with seconds – a pure dashboard instrument.
Bell & Ross has always in my opinion expertly shrunken down the plane clock for use on the wrist. Some of the little details are the best, such as the well-rendered hands and four dial mounted screws that match the four bezel mounted screws. The dial is clean and crisp with indicators that are slightly raised due to the healthy amount of SuperLumiNova used for lume.
“Shrunken down” is of course a relative term as the Bell and Ross BR0192-HERITAGE is still a 46mm by 46mm wide square cased watch. When it first came out there was a lot of skepticism as to who might wear such a watch. The “big watch” craze wasn’t quite mainstream yet, and it look a lot of wrist time for people to be convinced that Bell & Ross was on to something. Nevertheless, Bell & Ross still released the slightly smaller BR 03 model a few years later to satisfy more wrist size preferences. Interestingly enough, as wide as the watch is, it feels very thin at 10.5mm thick. This low wrist profile is a major benefit of the design.
Personally I love the size and would choose the BR 01 over a BR 03 any day of the week. Other equally educated people might say just the opposite. The steel case is PVD coated black and water resistant to 100 meters. The sapphire crystal is AR coated for viewing ease. More little touches like the grating texture on the screw-down crown with engraved Bell & Ross logo are welcome bits. The large flat watch sits very comfortably on the wrist, which also means that while it is large, it won’t slide around.
One of the most clever design elements of the watch is how the straps integrate the lugs for a single, seamless look. The straps gently taper and are faceted (on the rubber versions) to help visually reduce the size of the watch. It is a quite refined and visually elegant strap design, while also being very simple. Also offered in leather, nylon Velcro, and other straps, the best strap for the BR 01 is still probably the rubber strap. Beautiful in it design, the strap is matched to a sexy buckle and is effortlessly easy to wear and comfortable.Personally I love the size and would choose the BR 01 over a BR 03 any day of the week. Other equally educated people might say just the opposite. The steel case is PVD coated black and water resistant to 100 meters. The sapphire crystal is AR coated for viewing ease. More little touches like the grating texture on the screw-down crown with engraved Bell & Ross logo are welcome bits. The large flat watch sits very comfortably on the wrist, which also means that while it is large, it won’t slide around.
One of the most clever design elements of the watch is how the straps integrate the lugs for a single, seamless look. The straps gently taper and are faceted (on the rubber versions) to help visually reduce the size of the watch. It is a quite refined and visually elegant strap design, while also being very simple. Also offered in leather, nylon Velcro, and other straps, the best strap for the BR 01 is still probably the rubber strap. Beautiful in it design, the strap is matched to a sexy buckle and is effortlessly easy to wear and comfortable.
Inside the BR 01-92 is a Swiss ETA 2892-2 automatic movement. Most BR 01 watches make it very clear which movement is inside of them. The BR 01-94 for example has a 2894 automatic chronograph movement while the BR 01-97 has a 2897 automatic with power reserve movement, and so forth. A number of brands out there use basic ETA movements and try to disguise the caliber names with their own lexicon. Bell & Ross seems to have little interest in this practice and I applaud them for focusing on what counts. They are not a watch movement maker but a watch maker. They use reliable industry tested movements inside watches of their own design, and don’t mean to confuse anyone in the process.
Bell and Ross BR V3-94
Several years ago when I first began to really indulge my interest in watches, Bell & Ross was one of the first brands outside the household names that I became aware of. I can distinctly remember walking into a Tourneau and seeing the Bell & Ross display prominently featured to my right immediately as I entered. Under the glass I saw a bunch of square watches that looked like some combination of a children’s toy, an aircraft instrument, and avant-garde design objects. I was so new to watches at the time that I even remember having an intrinsic understanding, from the watches and marketing materials alone, that Bell & Ross was surely some manner of historic watch brand that must be an insider’s secret.
Hey, I was new. I definitely hadn’t discovered Worn & Wound or any other watch related websites by this point, and was probably taking my cues mostly from StyleForum and advertisements in glossy magazines. Bell and Ross BR V3-94, of course, is not a historical watch brand. They were founded in 1992 by Bruno Belamich and Carlos A. Rosillo, and eventually gained traction with their BR series of square cased watches with circular dials, made to look like gauges on the instrument clusters you’d find in an airplane. Bell & Ross sought out opportunities to bolster their reputation as an aviator’s brand, and became the official supplier of watches to the French space program and the French Air Force.
Bell & Ross is the product of a somewhat simpler time in watch enthusiasm, right before the blogs hit, and Instagram became essential. They predate a lot of snobbery that is now associated with the luxury watch world, and I’ve been around just long enough to look back on peak Bell & Ross with some nostalgia. This has always been a design forward brand with an emphasis on storytelling, and jabs at some perceived lack of authenticity are misdirected, in my opinion. Bell & Ross never set out to fake anything, but they’ve always cultivated a very specific identity.
I like authenticity, but I also read fiction, and I don’t demand that every watch have an origin story that’s centuries old. I do, however, insist that watches be well thought out, made with integrity, wearable, and aesthetically pleasing, so that’s how I came to the Bell and Ross BR V3-94 Black Steel, an imposing chronograph that’s definitely not square – but also kind of is. Let’s get into it.
The Black Steel is part of the Bell & Ross “Vintage” collection, which forgoes the instrument style square cases for traditional shapes that register as “normal” watches. These aren’t the kinds of watches that necessarily jump right out at you when you walk into Tourneau for the first time, but they are perhaps the type of watches that possess a certain refined elegance that will stand the test of time, and could never be considered a fad.
While other watches in the Vintage collection have proportions that you could reasonably associate with actual vintage watches, the Black Steel, unfortunately, does not. The BR V1 (a simple time and date range) and the BR V2 (a midsize platform hosting a range of complications) come in with cases measuring 38.5mm and 41mm respectively, which are modern enough sizes but take a vintage inspired case and dial design well enough. At 43mm, the BR V3-94 is decidedly oversized, and the case looks blown up from every angle.
The shape is interesting, and wearing it over the last week or so, it gradually dawned on me that it shares a certain boxiness with modern Rolex “Super Case” sports watches, with wide, squared off lugs that give the watch an almost cushion case-like impact. I’m not someone who derides the 114060 Submariner – I’ve owned that watch and it wears much more comfortably than its somewhat severe appearance would have you believe. But the Black Steel is a full three millimeters larger in diameter. That makes a real difference in how it feels on the wrist, and in its visual impression.
The Black Steel measures about 13mm tall and 49mm lug to lug. It’s long and flat, and Bell & Ross has done a nice job making a big case feel svelte with a few clever tricks. First, the endlinks of the bracelet do not extend beyond the tips of the lugs, meaning the Black Steel wears a true 49mm lug to lug. In fact, these end links are integrated into the case (B&R sells a leather strap that mounts directly to it, Pelagos style). Secondly, the caseback is nestled closely into the midcase and doesn’t protrude from the bottom, so the watch wears close to the wrist. While the Bell and Ross BR V3-94 Black Steel is big, it’s not bulky in the way a dive watch of this size would be if it were rated to some extreme level of water resistance. The Black Steel gets by with only going 100 meters deep.
Finishing is nice but not extraordinary. The case sides are polished and the tops of the lugs have been given a brushed satin finish. This further links the watch to Rolex in my mind, even though this is a fairly standard application of finishing techniques for a watch like this. The bezel has a 60 minute counter and rotates crisply in both directions, 120 clicks for a full trip around the dial. Again, nothing extraordinary here, and that’s perfectly fine. It’s functional and felt reliable in my testing, but it’s not a notably outstanding bezel action.
Bell and Ross BR V2-94 RACING BIRD
Created in tribute to Bell & Ross’ new BR-Bird racing plane design (shown below), the new BR V2-94 Racing Bird Chronograph translates the plane’s concept and livery into a handsome and distinctive pilot’s chronograph. Following Bell & Ross’s in-house designs of race cars and motorcycles, the brand has designed a racing plane meant to compete in the Reno Air Races. It’s a sleek design with a rearward cockpit sitting well behind a broad set of wings. While only a conceptual design study, the BR-Bird has inspired a pair of handsome watches from Bell & Ross, this V2-94 chronograph, and the BR V1-92 three-hander.
Like its three-handed sibling, the BR V2-94 Racing Bird Chronograph is a distinct departure from the more vintage-inspired aesthetic of other models in this range from Bell & Ross. While the Racing Bird retains its 41mm steel case and two-register, 30-minute chronograph layout, this limited edition model opts for a more modern use of Arabic numerals set on a legible white dial with blue, grey, and orange accents. The typical date at 4:30 has been replaced by a “three-day” date display sunk into the base of the running seconds sub dial. The effect is sporty, fun, and undeniably connected to Bell & Ross’s aviation designs.
To get to the point, the more I look at the images, the more I like the BR V2-94 Racing Bird. I like the white dial, I like the blue and orange accents on the subdial at nine, I like that they have replicated the silhouette of the BR-Bird in the counter balance of the bright orange chronograph seconds hand. Oddly enough, I think I might like the date display too, which is a first for me. I like how it conforms to the shape of the register and that the date wheel is color matched to the dial. I’ll reserve final judgement until I get to see it in person at Baselworld, but BR-Bird or not, I think the Racing Bird chronograph looks really good. Limited to 999 units, the BR V2-94 Racing Bird is powered the ETA 2894-2 (which B&R calls the BR-CAL.301) and is available on a blue leather strap or a steel bracelet.
Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT White
A watch that is sophisticated and stylish serves many purposes. The new Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT White is already wowing timepiece enthusiasts with its eye-catching opaline white dial and practical GMT function. The GMT function is ideal for air travelers who benefit from knowing the time at their current location and their destination. The BR 05 GMT White’s second time zone hand completes one revolution of the dial in 24 hours. It displays the time via a 24-hour scale, painted on the flange ring.
The company’s artistic director explained they tested numerous shades before finding the perfect white for this watch. It is a metallic white with silver, pearl-like reflections. The metallic effect is subtle yet appealing and pairs well with the stain-finished, polished steel case, strap, and buckle. The 41mm BR 05 GMT White is precise and easy to read, like the aeronautical instruments from which it draws inspiration. Super-Luminova fills the hour, minute, and GMT hands, ensuring the time is visible day or night. The Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT White is now available for preorder with an expected delivery date in October.
Derived from aeronautical onboard instruments, Bell & Ross watches have precision and readability in their DNA. The BR 05, created in 2019, is a watch designed to walk the avenues of large cities and their museums. The Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT White is a variant, suitable for travelling. This watch has two strong characteristics: a GMT complication and an opaline white dial. This timepiece is not only practical, with its indication of a dual time zone, it is also attractive, with its great distinction. Pilots, businessmen or globetrotters – all regulars at airport terminals -, are among the brand’s clients. Ideal for international travellers, these pieces find their natural habitat on a flight whether you are travelling to Rio, Nassau or Bamako.’
“The GMT is a common complication in watchmaking. It is one of the most useful functions that provide real practical information. It allows the display of the time of two time zones. In this sense, it fulfils the needs of air travellers”, recalls Bruno Belamich, Artistic Director of Bell & Ross. It gives them the advantage of having the time of their places of departure and arrival simultaneously.
“The GMT is a great success with our clients”, says Bruno Belamich. “We are launching this new BR 05 GMT White version, in order to respond to this strong interest.”
On this variant, the second time zone hand completes one revolution of the dial in 24 hours. It displays the time via a 24-hour scale, painted on the flange ring. This element is painted in two different tones: one for the day (between 6am and 6 pm) and the other for the night (between 6 pm and 6 am).
Usually, the traveller chooses the GMT hand to display the time of the departure time zone. Users generally prefer the central hour and minute hand to read the time in the time zone where we are.
The GMT White is powered by the self-winding BR-CAL 325 calibre.
The GMT complication has been fitted to the BR 05 range since 2021. The new family transports the aviation-inspired pieces of the brand into a new urban scenario, in the heart of the city. Its design embraces the brand’s iconic ‘circle within a square’ shape but in a refined, softened version. The angles are rounded, and the bracelet fits into the case. The two elements form an elegant whole.
White is a common colour in watchmaking. It is however quite rare within the Bell & Ross range. This shortcoming has been remedied with this BR 05 GMT White which follows on from the first BR 05 GMT with a black dial.
“After testing quite a few different shades, we chose the most precious white”, explains the artistic director of Bell & Ross,” the choice fell on a metallic white, galvanised with a particular texture”. This metallic effect goes perfectly with the metal case. “This type of white is more valuable than painted whites. The tint has silver reflections, very slightly pearly. Its matt finish is both subtle and sophisticated”, adds the Director. Called opaline, this shade gives it a dressy style.
The BR 05 GMT White also features red tones. In general, this colour is used to convey important information. In watchmaking, it often adorns the GMT hands, as is the case here. This red hand indicates a second timezone, displayed on a 24-hour scale with day/night indication. Red is the perfect partner for opaline white.
The 41 mm case of the BR 05 GMT White is entirely made of steel. Its finishes alternate between polished
and satin-brushed.
The hour and minute hands, numerals and indexes are covered with photo-luminescent superluminova. Legibility, a concept dear to Bell & Ross, is therefore guaranteed day and night.
The open caseback with sapphire crystal, characteristic of the BR 05 family, allows the original oscillating weight to be admired at 360°. Its design is inspired by a sports car rim.
“Clients appreciate the date function”, says Bruno Belamich. “On this new model, this indication takes place in a large aperture at 3 o’clock”.
Designed in steel, the integrated bracelet adopts a satin finish. Only the centre attachment links are polished.
A second rubber strap is available, for a more sporty style and a more attractive price.
Bell and Ross BR V2-94 BELLYTANKER BRONZE
One of the most fashionable new watches at Baselworld 2019 was, not surprisingly, released by Paris-based Bell & Ross. Using the BR V2-94 watch collection as a base, the new-for-2019 limited-edition reference BRV294-BC-BR/SCA BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze combines a “rich look” with affordability in a non-tarnishing bronze case. On the wrist, you’d be hard-pressed not to think this watch was solid gold when viewing it from a few feet away. Enthusiasts, however, know that its wearer is more practical than flamboyant, opting for great design and aesthetics over sheer showing-off.
That isn’t to say the Bell & Ross BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze is a budget watch, at just under $5,000 — but it sure costs less than if the case were in gold. Bell & Ross’s BR V2-94 case is 41mm-wide and paired with actual screw-down chronograph pushers and a matching crown. The rear of the watch has a bellytanker automobile motif printed on the exhibition caseback window, as this is part of the Bell & Ross Bellytanker watch collection that debuted not too long ago. Inside the BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze watch is a Swiss ETA 2894 automatic chronograph movement (that they call the BR-CAL. 301) with a lightly decorated movement visible through the rear of the case. The chronograph on the dial is laid out with only one subdial (the other subdial is for the running seconds) making it a 30-minute chronograph. A small circular window between 4 and 5 o’clock has the date using a discreet black-colored disc.
Black and gold with some hints of red mark the attractively designed Bellytanker Bronze dial. The gold-toned subdials are a nice touch and remind me of the color palettes of certain Everose gold Rolex Daytona watch models. As I said above, Bell & Ross didn’t choose oxidizing bronze but rather a stable bronze alloy. This is an important distinction because the bronze alloys that helped popularize bronze as a modern watch material do, in fact, “patina” over time. This Bell & Ross with a bronze case (and some other watches out there) opted for a metal alloy that does not oxidize and subsequently patina. The watch will, of course, scratch, but it won’t start to get green or black over time. I prefer stable bronze, more often than not, and given that the BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze is going for a more chic (versus antique) look, I agree with Bell & Ross’ decision use stable bronze for the case.
Bell & Ross complemented this attractive watch color combination with a black calf leather strap and Bell & Ross’ still-pretty new deployant clasp. For the money, I can’t think of too many other modern watches out there that have as classy a look for a vintage-style sport watch design. As a limited edition of 999 pieces, the Bell & Ross BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze will easily be a sleeper hit from Bell & Ross for 2022
Bell & Ross BR V2-92 Aeronavale
The Aeronavale is the aviation branch of the French Navy. Breguet famously equipped the Aeronavale with the battle-ready Type-20 pilot chronographs, which have been, and still are, ceaselessly coveted, collected, and copied. However, with the new Aeronavale 41-millimeter, Bell & Ross has created a watch suited not to battle garb but to the French Navy’s beautiful gold and blue full dress uniforms.The Aeronavale is not a “real” military watch. In fact, the French Navy had nothing to do with it. Rather, Bell & Ross BR V2-92 simply dreamed it up. Bell & Ross can get pretty conceptual this way, with recent examples including their copper-dialed Bellytanker (designed for an imaginary vintage land-speed-record scenario) and their sporty Racing Bird (meant to accompany a computer-generated high-speed plane).On the surface Bell & Ross’ concepts can seem lofty, but I’ve found that the concepts help bring these watches down-to-earth by eliminating the pretense that a mechanical watch is, today, a real tool. When you consider that a life-long American civilian like me regularly wears a watch that Bell & Ross dreamed up to complement the French Navy Air Division’s full dress uniform, the whole enterprise takes on an air of delightfully absurd costuming. But, somehow, overtly acknowledging that we’re all playing dress-up seems to temper the absurdity.But why would I—or anyone for that matter—fall for a watch like the Aeronavale? Typically there’s some personal connection that sets the heart aflame, and I’m sure others who enjoy the Aeronavale will have their own story. For me, it goes back to childhood.
One summer when I was around 12, the US Navy’s sailing team borrowed my Dad’s sailboat for a tet-a-tet against a crew of scrappy yahoos from the Buffalo Yacht Club. Predictably, the Navy’s clean-cut sailors breezily command victory. Later that night the Navy Band played the most badass funk—all of them in full dress uniforms like some strange spin-off of The Village People; the horn section lock-stepping to “Ladies’ Night” by Kool & The Gang; the dangerously handsome lead singer flirting with everyone’s wives and daughters. Utterly gobsmacked, Navy-cool has enchanted ever since.
Funny, though, that I didn’t fall in love with the Bell & Ross BR V2-92 Aeronavale’s predecessor, the 42-millimeter BR123 in the same colorway that Bell & Ross released in 2016. That watch has a significantly larger dial, and I felt like a poseur sporting such a huge blue and gold billboard. Thankfully, Bell & Ross has been following the trend toward smaller watches, and this new 41-millimeter 92-V2 Aeronavale is one of the best fitting, most elegant, and properly proportioned watches I own. It delivers just enough Navy-cool.
All of the Bell & Ross BR V2-92 watches run on the BR-CAL.302, an adaptation of the increasingly ubiquitous Sellita SW300-1, which itself is a near-clone of ETA’s 2892. The “-1” indicates that this movement has beefed-up teeth on the gear train, which Sellita claims reduces inaccuracies introduced by shock. Bell & Ross doesn’t disclose whether they’ve made any mechanical upgrades, and the only visible modification is the engraved logo and other subtle touches on the rotor. As with all SW330s, its a-magnetic Nivaflex hairspring oscillates 28,800 times an hour, it includes an Incabloc anti-shock system, and it can store up to 42 hours of power. The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal mounted in the handsome screwed-in case back.
Though I’ve made a strong case for its dressiness, I was delighted to find that the Areonavale dresses down just fine on a mil-strap. During the past couple of sweltering months I’ve had the Aeronavale on navy blue nylon and paired it with everything from shabby old work shirts and tattered khakis for Saturday schluffing to swim trunks and a rash-guard while paddle boarding. The Aeronavale’s versatility keeps this watch on my wrist far more than I had anticipated, and despite owning it for only a couple months, it is already my most worn watch this year.
Bell and Ross BR V2-92 AUTO
The United States Army Air Corps standardized paint colors to be used on military assets in 1939. The Joint Aircraft Committee’s Subcommittee on Standardization elected to implement the the ANA (Army Navy Aircraft) color standard. This color standard created ANA 616, otherwise known as “Desert Sand.” Much like Olive Drab, this color has come to define military equipment, and to the general public it’s instantly recognizable as something purely tactical, as well as functional.
So it’s no surprise that Bell and Ross BR V2-92 chose the color scheme for the dial of the new Bell and Ross BR V2-92 sports watch. The company has made a name – and defined an identity – with large square-cased watches designed after cockpit instrumentation. But the V2-92 is nothing like those – instead it thoughtfully straddles a number of traditional watch categories. The V2-92 has the face of a field watch, the bezel of a dive watch, and the personality of something straight from Operation Desert Shield.
There’s a certain balance to this watch that’s hard to come by; the models typically associated with Bell & Ross don’t quite exemplify the same sort of utilitarian design that the Bell and Ross BR V2-92 gets right. It’s a total military mash-up, with design elements borrowed from field watches and dive watches packaged in a thin case. The domed crystal adds some additional thickness, for a total of 12mm thickness overall, but thanks to the thin case and high domed crystal you still get a very wearable watch.
The late ’80s saw the arrival of the Desert Battle Dress Uniform as the US military presence in desert regions increased. It was nicknamed “cookie dough camouflage” for its hues of tan and brown. The Bell and Ross BR V2-92 feels like it could have been issued right alongside this battle dress uniform, but could it stand up to the same rigors?
One hundred meters of water resistance puts it closer to field watch territory than in the dive watch camp, and the bi-directional bezel doesn’t offer the same sort of safety as a unidirectional bezel, but I don’t think this is the watch to take diving anyway. It’s a sort of do-it-all watch; a jack of all trades that sacrifices doing one thing really well in order to do a good job at the mix of situations an everyday watch is used for. I don’t think the target demographic will take any points off for the one-in-a-million chance that a bezel gets knocked off by a few clicks underwater. From a purely practical standpoint, a bi-directional bezel makes more sense anyway; when you have gloves on, you want to turn the bezel the least amount of distance possible. What this also means is that typical “bezel slop” isn’t present, instead you get an affirmative click in either direction. A display caseback may also contribute to the level of water resistance, but it frames the lightly finished BR-CAL.302 nicely.
While the enthusiast world might have trouble with date wheels, the Swiss industry as a whole just doesn’t seem to want to let them go. Naturally, there is a date wheel on this model, but it’s integrated so thoughtfully that it shouldn’t bother even the most cranky no-date purist (I’m one of them). The date wheel is color matched, and this isn’t a standard black or white-dialed watch, either. It’s a very specific hue of military beige, and the window is rather small. Again, this watch strikes an admirable balance between typically competing camps.
The Bell and Ross BR V2-92 wears the same typography as other Bell & Ross watches, but it appears softer, and the domed crystal distorts and diffuses it in a way that tones down the boldness found of some of the better-known models in the line. The bracelet also features polished center links. It balances out the hardcore tool watch aesthetic, but it’s also something you would never find on a watch that was actually engineered for the military in the modern era, anyway. You will, however, find an elastic canvas strap made famous by the Marine Nationale, included with the V2-92. Originally, the legend goes, paratroopers fashioned straps for their issued watches from the stretchy parachute webbing. The Bell & Ross strap features color-matched desert tan-accented black paracord.
The “vintage-inspired” branding is perhaps manifested in the domed crystal, but this watch certainly channels an earlier era of Bell & Ross, an era when the nascent company released watches like the Type Démineur, a watch designed for bomb disposal units, or the Space 3, a chrono that just screams “shuttle era.” Bell & Ross watches were initially produced by tool watch maker Sinn; the V2-92 shares a lot of the same design language as the Sinn-era Bell & Ross models, and that’s a wonderful thing.
Collectors are now considering watches from the ’80s and ’90s as “vintage,” and the V2-92 is branded as a vintage-inspired timepiece. The design of the watch, much like that of the A-10 Warthog that shined during the Desert Shield conflict in 1990, works just as well in 2022.
