Category: Watch for Sale

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Vacheron Constantin Overseas 1225V/000R-H014

The 1970s is associated with economic turmoil for the luxury Swiss watch industry, but there were some positives to come out of this era. It was the decade that disruptive designs from the steel sports watch category were conceived. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch, designed by Gerald Genta, paved the way for other high-end sports watches from the likes of big brand names like Patek Philippe with its Nautilus watch and, of course, IWC Schaffhausen with the release of the Ingenieur watch. These models sparked a complete paradigm – a clear break away from the traditional elegant dress watch or, indeed, the slim quartz-powered watch that was proving itself so popular during this time.

The rise of the elegant steel sports watch was a game-changer. It communicated a laid-back, eclectic and casually elegant look. Octagonal bezels and integrated bracelets were all the rage – the case and bracelet of which were considered a whole, as opposed to two individual components. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas 1225V/000R-H014 watch by Vacheron Constantin is yet another example of a sports watch that took the world by storm. Today, it is one of the most instantly recognisable models, featuring a two-handed dial design accompanied by several different complications depending on the watch and its production year. But what made the Overseas watch such a stand-out and highly collectable model? Let’s first take a look at the history of the Overseas watch and how it came to be.

Following the success of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Vacheron Constantin Overseas 1225V/000R-H014 – the oldest watch manufacturer to have remained in continuous production for over 260 years – developed the 222 model. It was a radical break away from anything the prestigious watch manufacturer had ever produced before. Designed by Jorg Hysek, it has a slim barrel-shaped case, a one-piece case construction, baton hour markers, a flat and highly reliable movement developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre, and a notched round bezel. It ceased production in the mid-1980s and has subsequently become a horological icon that is hugely desirable amongst elite watch collecting circles. Following this was the 333 model with different complications that included a GMT function and chronograph.

In 1996, Vacheron Constantin produced the Overseas watch. Built around a tonneau-shaped case with a fluted bezel, it featured an integrated bracelet, a 37mm diameter, a 150-meter water resistance, and was powered by a COSC-certified movement. Over the years, the Overseas watch has seen some modifications, namely the new patterned dials and removal of the crown guard during phase 2 of the Overseas production series between the years 2004 and 2016. Today, there are ultra-flat models, chronographs, perpetual calendars and skeletonised variations belonging to the collection. Some of the most noteworthy advantages of owning a Vacheron Constantin Overseas watch today include its in-house manufactured and Geneva Seal-approved movements and its impressive anti-magnetic technology of up to 25,000 A/m.

The starting price for a collectable chronograph from the Vacheron Constantin Overseas 1225V/000R-H014 watch collection can set you back around $28,000 on the pre-owned market – a price similar to new three-handed watches that are easily accessible today. The top-level models with perpetual calendars and tourbillons, however, carry a much higher price tag of between $94,000 and $120,000. There are much more affordable Overseas watches too, namely women’s quartz-powered models that were released around the turn of the millennium. Men’s pre-owned three-handed automatic watches, are a little more, costing around the $10,000 to $13,000 mark.

Perhaps the most classic-looking of Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches is the model 4500V/110A-B483. Its stainless steel case, executed in a mix of brushed and polished finishes, is particularly suited to those with active lifestyles. The black dial surrounded by a steel case and matching stainless steel integrated bracelet epitomises the classic steel sports watch aesthetic. The dial is equipped with a simple three-handed layout, with central tapering hour and minute hands that have been treated with Super-LumiNova, along with a baton index hour track and a legible date window at 3 o’clock. Here, it is easy to appreciate the structure of the watch’s bezel, bearing the Maltese cross in its design. The same logo can also be seen underneath the 12 o’clock location on the dial, whilst inside the watch’s 150-meter water-resistant case is the in-house developed Calibre 5100. This self-winding movement was introduced in 2016 as part of Vacheron Constantin Overseas 1225V/000R-H014 latest generation of automatic movements and features a 22-carat gold oscillating weight adorned with a rose.

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IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe

People who keep a close eye on Formula 1, and in particular on 7-time world champion Lewis Hamilton might have already spotted this one, but IWC has just unveiled its latest TOP GUN family member. And it’s a big one, literally. What started in 2022 under the Colours of TOP GUN name is expanded once more with the introduction of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Lake Tahoe IW503008. And sure, the concept of a coloured Big Pilot’s Watch with a perpetual calendar display isn’t entirely new, but looks oh-so-cool in full white ceramic! The ‘Colours of TOP GUN‘ sub-genre of IWC Big Pilot QP watches comprises a few colours so far, all executed in ceramic or Ceratanium. So far, we’ve seen the classical black ceramic, but also Mojave Desert beige, Oceana Blue, Woodland Green and Lake Tahoe white. It’s no surprise what this one is called, as the 46.5mm wide and fully white ceramic case screams ‘Lake Tahoe’ from top to bottom. The all-white look is bold and daring, and definitely won’t go unnoticed when on the wrist. It’s fitted with a pressure-protected sapphire crystal front and back, and a steel diamond-shaped crown. The matte black dial shows no surprises, as it spreads all QP indications around the dial in the familiar Big Pilot’s Watch way. There’s plenty of canvas to be used, so even with all this information, it remains legible thanks to the balanced subdials, sharp contrast and large hands. The indications include the time, obviously, paired with the date, day of the week, month, year, power reserve and perpetual moon phase. All this is driven by the Calibre 52615, which we know quite well from all the previous IWC Big Pilot QP watches. Developed by Kurt Klaus in the 1980s, this large automatic movement fills the entire case and gets its energy from the large openworked central rotor. It can store a massive 168 hours, or 7 days of power reserve. The finishing includes the usual stuff, such as Côtes de Genève and perlage.

While I may be the New York City kid who has yet to get his driver’s licence, everyone else on the Time+Tide team are absolute Formula 1 fanatics. I confess I am no racing expert myself and have yet to listen to the many people imploring me to watch Drive to Survive on Netflix, but I’m certainly familiar with Lewis Hamilton. That is why it was quite surprising, or perhaps very strategic, that Lewis was provided a yet to be released watch to wear during Formula 1 Miami. With all eyes on Hamilton, and with such a huge crossover between racing and watch enthusiasts, it was inevitable that people were going to spot what was on his wrist.

While we constantly do watchspotting stories, 99% of the time these are watches that are already released. Since Miami at the beginning of May, and multiple times since, Hamilton has continually worn what appeared to be a perpetual calendar in a “Lake Tahoe” white ceramic case. This, of course, led to a ton of interest and speculation – a clear example of why ambassadorships can be so powerful. Was it a special piece just for Hamilton? Would it ever be offered to the public as well? Well, today IWC reveals that beginning next month the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe will be available for purchase.

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Panerai Luminor Due 42 Automatic Yellow Gold Green

Just opened at the prime location of New York’s Madison Avenue, Casa Panerai is the luxury watchmaker’s largest boutique to date, and home to an extensive collection of new and classic time-tellers. In celebrating the opening, Panerai also premiered the Panerai Radiomir Tourbillon Bronzo , as well as a special Luminor BiTempo New York Edition.

The Panerai Radiomir Tourbillon Bronzo is Panerai’s first-over tourbillon to arrive in a 45mm case size and is possibly the main centerpiece for the new boutique. It’s set in a bronze case, that gradually exudes even more retro charm and vintage appeal through time, oxidation, and wear. In line with its overall aesthetic, the watch is paired with a dark brown calf leather strap with contrasting top-stitches. At the heart and on the face of the time-teller, the P.2015/T calibre can be observed as it powers the piece for up to four days. Meanwhile, the dial pits a luscious deep green with bronze-hued numerals, hour markers, and lume-filled hands for a contrasting, yet complementing effect.

A dedicated timepiece for the occasion, the Panerai Luminor BiTempo New York Edition is offered in a limited run of 212 pieces. The 44mm titanium DLC case comes equipped with Luminor’s hallmarked sandwich dial in an understated gray, matte, and shaded finish. Sleek, sophisticated, and durable, the watch is also bestowed with a three-day power reserve, and 30 bar water resistance via the automatic P9010/GMT calibre it houses. Accompanying the stealthy timepiece is a matching gray strap composed of recycled PET.

Take a closer look at the aforementioned timepieces, as well as the newly-unveiled Casa Panerai boutique in the gallery above. To find out about the two watches’ price points and availability, check them out in person at the boutique, or keep an eye out on Panerai’s Instagram and official website for updates.
Panerai has just unveiled its new Panerai Luminor BiTempo New York collection comprising three 38mm references. Exhibiting effortless elegance and urban appeal, the range is designed to go with the everyday wardrobe of city dwellers.

For the first time ever, the Maison debuts pastel-colored dials for the collection, arriving in light blue, green, and powdery pink. The sandwich dial is filled with white Super-Luminova and is shaded with double-finishing polish for a luminous and gradient effect. Embellishing the dial are the brand’s classic Arabic numerals at the 12 and 6 o’clock marks, small seconds subdial, small date display, lume-filled applied hands, and a subtle Panerai inscription.

Set in a polished, stainless steel case with a matching metal bracelet, each watch is implemented with the Maison’s distinctive semi-oval crown-protection device, which comes with a safety-lock system. As for movement, the new Luminor Due is powered by the P.900 automatic calibre, complete with a three-day power reserve and 5 ATM water resistance.

Limited to 500 pieces per colorway per year, the Luminor Due collection is only available via Panerai’s boutique-exclusive program. Visit the brand’s official website to inquire about its price point, availability, and how to purchase.

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IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX

Earlier this year, IWC quietly dropped the new IWC Mark XX. No press release, fanfare, or announcement. Honestly, it was kind of refreshing – in a world where brands often seem to shout from the mountaintop about every little tweak made, it felt almost anachronistic for a brand to just throw a new watch on its website, waiting for us to pick up on it.

Well, pick up on it we did, and pretty quickly. For such a simple watch, the IWC Mark Series has always invited as many opinions as there are people, and that’s fair enough for what’s one of the most classic, accessible model lines around. After World War II, IWC (and for a short time, Jaeger-LeCoultre) started producing the Mark XI as a simple, no-nonsense pilot’s watch for the British Ministry of Defense powered by IWC’s vaunted caliber 89. Towards the end of the Mark XI’s run, IWC also produced some for commercial sale. Soon after the discontinuation of the Mark XI, IWC continued the model line with the Mark XII, then the Mark XV, and so on (they skipped 13 and 14 since they’re considered unlucky in parts of the world, so we’ll go easy on them for skipping 19 this time around).
Since we introduced the IWC Mark XX back in July, the brand has filled out the collection to include a total of six variants: three dial colors – matte black, sunburst blue, and sunburst green – with or without a bracelet. I went hands-on with the black and green on a bracelet, alongside the Mark XVIII (and my own Mark XII), and we were able to capture photos of the blue dial on a strap (the photos you see in this article).

Let’s start with the aesthetics of the new IWC Mark XX. Like the Mark XVIII, the Mark XX has a 40mm diameter, but it has a lug-to-lug of 49mm, about 2mm shorter than the XVIII, making for a better-proportioned watch. While the Mark XVIII was on the brink of being too big as an everyday watch (for me), this tweak pushes the Mark XX firmly into “yep, I could wear this every day without really thinking about it” territory.
As with the case, there are some changes to the dial that make it more balanced. Let’s start where I know the opinions will: The date window. I haven’t set a date window since…well, I guess I can’t tell if I haven’t set the date now, can I? But while I might prefer a watch without a date window – I’ve read enough early Hodinkee articles to have been properly brainwashed – it’s never stopped me from buying a great watch that happens to have a date window (more on my love of the properly date-windowed Mark XII below). Since it’s all relative: The Mark XX has a better-executed date window than the Mark XVII. Basically accepting that the Mark Series has to have a date window nowadays for some combination of mostly commercial reasons, the Mark XX’s is pretty good.
IWC, known for its immediately identifiable Pilot’s Watch line, has very subtly released a brand new addition to its Mark collection – which takes inspiration from the original Mark XI. This is the Mark XX, the apparent successor to the IWC Mark XVIII (though we never did get that Mark XIX). This new watch is an improvement in several ways over the XVIII. At a quick glance, you might think you’re seeing the same watch. Look again. IWC has addressed the design and legibility of the dial (including the date window), as well as the capability of both the case and movement.

It measures the same 40mm in diameter as the former model (which is still available from IWC) and has the same identifiable matte black dial and stark white legible numerals. The first change is located right at three o’clock. That’s where the date window has been redesigned from almost hidden black-on-black, to a now white background. This keeps the overall symmetry consistent with the white numerals.

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IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Black Aces

IWC launched a new Spitfire squadron in its collection of pilots’ watches at that debuted in 2019. A self-winding movement from the new 32000 family of manufacture calibers debuts inside the case of the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Black Aces. We tested one in this feature from the WatchTime archives, with original photos by Olaf Köster.

“Haven’t I seen this watch somewhere before?” You might be thinking this when you first set eyes on the classic IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Black Aces. And you wouldn’t be mistaken because its design is inspired by the legendary Mark 11 from 1948.

In the late 1940s, IWC responded to an invitation from the British government by developing a special wristwatch for Royal Air Force pilots. Production began in 1948 and the first timepieces were developed in November 1949. The model remained in airborne service until 1981. It encased IWC’s equally popular hand-wound Caliber 89, which has a soft iron inner case to protect it against the adverse influences of magnetic fields. The boldly designed dial is clearly legible by day and by night. The Mark XII with automatic movement and date followed, but connoisseurs had to wait until 1994 before it finally debuted.

The name “Spitfire” first appeared at the turn of the millennium with a limited series of 1,000 watches. IWC began manufacturing a series of pilots’ watches named after the legendary aircraft in 2003. With its pale dial, it was regarded as “the more elegant Mark,” but it was somewhat overshadowed by the 14th incarnation of the classic pilots’ watch, which was named Mark XV. Ten years later, the old Spitfire – now a large pilots’ watch with perpetual calendar and a dark dial – approached the classic Mark line, but inconspicuously disappeared under its wearer’s shirt cuff as an elegant three-handed watch with a pale dial. After the Mark XVIII of 2016 and the Big Pilot’s Watch Spitfire of the same year, which were virtually indistinguishable, a symbiosis of the two seems almost logical, while the Mark leaves quietly. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Black Aces Mark XVIII can still be found in IWC’s digital catalogs, but only as the edition “Le Petit Prince.”

Caliber 79320 (based on ETA Valjoux 7750) is now ticking inside Le Petit Prince, which sells for $5,250. The new Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire is equipped with new manufacture Caliber 32110. IWC presents two versions: our tested watch with stainless-steel case, black dial and green textile strap for $4,350; and a version with a bronze case, green dial and dark brown calfskin strap for $4,900. These are not only the base models in the Spitfire collection, but they also embody the entry-level timepieces leading into the world of the IWC manufacture. The matte stainless-steel case with its narrow, steep bezel and massive screw-in back has a moderate diameter of 39 mm and is therefore one mm smaller than the case of the Mark XVIII. The height is 10.86 mm, which gives it a sporty look and is also an appropriate thickness for a classic pilots’ watch. Manufacture Caliber 32110 contributes to the case’s height: the movement is 4.2 mm thick. Its diameter is 28.2 mm. Furthermore, Caliber 32110 is equipped with increased protection against magnetic fields thanks to a soft iron inner case and an additional inner back, a detail that was already included in the Mark 11.

My first thought upon receiving this watch for review and double checking its price was that the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire is a very nice value, almost to the point that I considered shifting gears and writing this post as a Value Proposition, because I think it could certainly be covered from that angle. It makes me very happy to write that, because it takes me back to a time early in my watch journalism career, in the mid-2000s, when one of the qualities I most often associated with IWC was value for money. After all, IWC is the brand that gave the watch world its first affordable splits-second chronograph and an affordable-ish grand complication. The no-nonsense IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Black Aces tool-watch style that was there from the early days feels especially present in this product. As configured here, the Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire costs just $4,450, and for that you get a whole heck of a lot.

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Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon High Jewelry watch

Jacob & Co., Harry Winston, Van Cleef and Arpels… There are plenty of brands that were crafting exquisite jewelry well before delving into serious watchmaking. Two more stand out beyond the others, though: Bulgari and Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon High Jewelry watch. The two brands have been dueling to make the thinnest mechanical watch for over a decade, trading the title back and forth several times. And while Bulgari seems to be getting a lot of the spotlight these days (likely given its sportier designs and where the market is right now, Piaget’s timepieces continue to amaze. Its Altiplano collection, which includes its efforts at making the world’s thinnest watch, is an ever-expanding catalog of elegance. Building off the two existing moonphase models, the new Piaget Altiplano Moonphase watches once again combine the brand’s haute joaillerie craft with its horological prowess for four stunning new models. The new Altiplano Moonphases are housed in a svelte 36mm case that’s just 9.78mm-thick. The case comes in 18k rose gold or rhodium-plated 18k white gold and is set with 48 baguette-cut diamonds around the bezel and 12 brilliant-cut diamonds split amongst the straight lugs. The pull-out crown at 3 o’clock is set with a sapphire glass endcap engraved with a P (for Piaget!); not surprisingly, this jewelry watch has just 30m of water resistance. Depending on the model, the watch is paired with a quick-release alligator leather strap with a pin buckle closure in matching metal adorned with a further 14 brilliant-cut diamonds. The form of the case is nothing remarkable (save, perhaps, for the blocky drop at the lugs’ termina that feature on all Altiplano models), and that’s exactly what you want when you’ve got such showstopper dials.

Four dials are available between the rose gold and white gold cases; providing pleasant contrast, the rose gold cases have white gold dials, while the white gold cases offer rose gold dials. The dials are split into two sections. The upper portion of the dial depicts the night sky, with a rainbow of gemstones set against a speckled blue enamel background. Hiding in the sky of each dial is the outline of what Piaget calls “Guardians,” one of four animals representing a cardinal direction and associated with one of the four seasons of the year: the Azure Dragon of the East and Spring, the Vermilion Bird of the South and Summer, the White Tiger of the West and Autumn, and the Black Tortoise of the North and Winter. Adding a bit of intrigue, the Chinese constellations, or Guardians, are all rendered in luminous paint, coming to life in the dark. The bottoms are engraved with what Piaget calls “Palace” decoration—that random-looking striation that resembles wood grain. Add to that patterning scattered diamonds and streaks of contrasting gems, and the overall effect is one of a dazzling meteor shower falling out of the sky above. The dial is completed by the namesake moonphase display: a large aperture at 6 o’clock is partially ringed by diamonds (more diamonds!) and shows the moonphase disc, which is made of a lumed white material and aventurine glass. Two final diamonds are waiting for the owner, covering the fasteners of the Piaget nameplate below the moonphase. One could reasonably argue that with such a dial, a display caseback would be a bit extra. But Piaget has done just that, with a sapphire crystal showing the in-house Piaget 580P Altiplano caliber. The movement features a 360-degree rotor with a deep-blue enamel crescent moon with the Piaget coat of arms (though my first thought was of the Star Wars Rebel Alliance insignia). The 580P has a power reserve of 42 hours at 21,600 vph, with 25 jewels and a hacking feature. The movement is decorated rather underwhelmingly: Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate, beveled bridges, and blued screws—sure. But if you have a dial like these watches and choose to show off the movement as well, shouldn’t the movement be spectacular, too? Instead, we have a “fun” rotor on a movement that looks like an off-the-shelf Sellita. Imagine how elegant it would have been to inlay the enamel crescent into a solid rose gold or white gold caseback!

There’s another angle here that isn’t explicitly mentioned by Piaget: These models seem geared toward the burgeoning Chinese market, where individuals with vast sums of money are buying luxury goods left and right while living in a country and culture steeped in tradition and symbolism. (To be sure, TAG Heuer, IWC, and Cartier have all tipped their hats to the Chinese market this year.) Piaget’s stunning use of Chinese guardians plays to that market, while the resplendently elegant watch allows for a conspicuous display of wealth and success. By making the guardian depictions almost hidden, though, Piaget has crafted four new models that can be appreciated fully by just about anyone.

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Cartier Santos-Dumont watch

Following the recent revamp of the Santos family, Cartier used SIHH 2019 to announce a new but related line, the Cartier Santos Dumont . Classically sized, thin, and available only on a leather strap, the Santos-Dumont is a beautiful expression of the Cartier design language and, thanks to its use of a quartz movement, is offered at a price point not common to the Santos, all while maintaining that very appealing wrist presence.

With few exceptions, my personal preference in watches tends towards the more affordable and accessible side of the market. I like a wild complication and precious metals just fine, but my own collecting and buying habits inform a closer eye on watches on the entry-level side of luxury. As such watches are in limited supply at SIHH, it’s exciting when a comparatively accessible new watch is announced, even more so when it’s from a brand like Cartier.
While I recognize that many reading this may disregard the Santos-Dumont because of Cartier’s choice to use a quartz movement, I think there is a lot here to like (including the movement). The Santos-Dumont comes in two sizes, a smaller option at 27.5mm wide (38.5mm lug to lug), and a larger version that is 31.4mm wide (43.5mm lug to lug). Just 7mm thick and mounted on an alligator strap, both sizes wear well, but the slightly larger model looked more contemporary on my seven-inch wrist (you can see both sizes on-wrist below). Given the classic Cartier styling, I think either size could work for most wrists and for both men or women. Additionally, given the square case, both models felt a bit bigger on wrist than those dimensions would suggest.

With options in steel, two-tone, and full 18k rose gold, the look is dressy and elegant, but not at all fussy. Like many of the more simple designs from Cartier, the Cartier Santos Dumont has a versatility and style that is at home with a suit but not out of place with a more casual outfit. Given the (comparatively) smaller sizing of both models and the thin case execution, the Santos-Dumont wears really well and the 18k rose gold model is sure to elicit a smile as you put it on your wrist. Where these new Cartiers become more noteworthy is in their use of a quartz movement and the resulting entry-level price point. Displaying just the hours and minutes, Cartier Santos Dumont has fitted a custom “high-autonomy” quartz movement that offers six years of battery life. Quartz will be a no-go for some (and the brand makes all sorts of mechanical models), but as a relatively commercial offering that is meant to be simple and easy to wear, quartz makes sense. Similar to the value statement of the quartz-powered Tank Solo, think of the Santos-Dumont as a grab-and-go workday watch or maybe even a reliable and fuss-free dress watch option for those who might rarely dress up. As the entry point for the Santos line, the Santos-Dumont will also function as many buyers’ initial introduction to Cartier watches.
In 2019, Cartier released the Santos Dumont line of watches with quartz movements – then followed that up one year later with a string of mechanical, limited variations. This year, the brand has added more limited goodness to the line (but don’t worry, there’s one non-limited model, too).

The 2022 Cartier Santos Dumont collection comprises three watches meant to invoke the spirit and style of the watch once worn by the eponymous Alberto Santos-Dumont. But ol’ Alberto never had options like these. Each of the limited watches brings together a mixture of color and metal. The variations are burgundy and platinum, beige and gold, or black and steel. All of them are coated with a thin layer of lacquer, then smoothed, and finally polished by hand.

The platinum model comes fitted to a burgundy strap, the gold has a green strap, and the steel gets a black strap.

Each watch is presented in the large, 43.5mm sizing with the Cartier manufacture manual winding 430 MC movement. The platinum watch is limited to 150 pieces while the gold is limited to 250 pieces. The steel and black variant will be a regular production model. All of the pieces will be available in November of this year.

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Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian

The Piaget Polo watch of 1979 was Piaget’s highly successful sporty-chic watch accounting for nearly one-third of the company’s sales in the 1980s. Following a radical makeover in 2016, the cushion-shaped Polo has appeared with mechanical complications, high and low, and even skeletonised high jewellery models. As a master of ultra-thin movements since the mid-1950s, last month Piaget added an ultra-thin perpetual calendar complication to the Polo mix inside a 42mm stainless steel case. Piaget is also synonymous with colourful semi-precious stone dials and, as the owner of the largest jewellery workshop in Geneva, gemstone setting is also an integral part of the brand’s DNA. Two models, one in pink gold with a green dial and an exceptional white gold model with a blue obsidian dial and blue sapphires, enrich the Polo collection.

Sharing identical specifications to the steel model launched in March 2023, the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin comes in the typical cushion-shaped stainless steel case with a flat round bezel. It has a 42mm diameter, a height of 8.65mm and 30m water-resistance. The 18k pink gold model shares the same emerald green dial as the steel model with its signature horizontal gadroons. The perpetual calendar layout, with the month and leap year indicator at noon, the date at 3 o’clock, the day of the week at 9 o’clock and the moon phase at 6 o’clock is also identical to the steel model.
Employing Piaget’s long-standing experience in stone dials, the blue model features a mysterious silvery blue obsidian dial framed by different-sized blue sapphires in dark claws set in the bezel. Produced when lava from a volcano cools rapidly, obsidian is a form of volcanic glass. The natural iridescence found in the obsidian dial of this watch is formed when drops of mineral-rich sulphide liquid are trapped in the rock as it solidifies, a phenomenon that ensures that no two stones are alike. The movement powering the perpetual calendar functions is Piaget’s in-house calibre 1255, based on Piaget’s famous, ultra-thin (2.35mm) 1200P automatic calibre with a perpetual calendar module. Thanks to the incorporation of a micro-rotor, this automatic movement has a thickness of just 4mm. With a frequency of 21,600vph and a power reserve of 42 hours, the perpetual calendar function won’t need adjusting until 2100. The pink gold model is presented on a textured green rubber strap, while the white gold comes on a blue alligator strap with an additional rubber strap. The Piaget Perpetual Ultra-Thin models have the brand’s SingleTouch interchangeable strap/bracelet system.

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Panerai Luminor Submersible 47 S Brabus Experience Edition

As the luxury watch industry continues to intersect with the automotive world, renowned Swiss watchmakers are releasing exclusive examples with inspiration from the most popular supercars on the market. Responsible for modifying Mercedes-AMG, Porsche, and Rolls-Royce models with performance upgrades, the team at BRABUS pride itself on continuing its ongoing horological partnership with Panerai. After two successful releases, the dynamic duo is proud to reveal the new Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Experience Edition as the third to its trio of automotive-inspired dive watches. The Carbotech case of the Submersible S measures a robust 47mm, with a signature red bezel and an inner ring that pays homage to the German tuning company.
The Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Experience Edition features a skeleton dial that showcases a stripe pattern, representing the typical BRABUS design pattern found on the grill of its supercars. Panerai powers the watch with its new in-house P.4001/S movement, utilizing GMT functions to accurately indicate a second timezone. Commemorating the stunning interior designs of BRABUS vehicles, the Submersible S BRABUS Experience Edition comes fit on a black perforated leather strap with vibrant red contrast stitching. The all-new Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Experience Edition is limited to only 22 pieces and is currently available through an authorized dealer with the price upon request.
Cooperation between Panerai and German after-market specialist atelier Brabus, famous for its bold and high-tech approach to re-design and tuning powerful machines, seems a natural fit. Brabus editions of cars and boats are not meant for the faint-hearted. And the Panerai Submersible collection with combat-ready-looking watches offered in case sizes measuring 42mm, 44mm and 47mm is not created for a milquetoast. And at 47mm, the new Panerai Submersible S Brabus Verde Militare PAM01283 is certainly part of this breed.

This new addition to the Submersible S series launched in collaboration with the Brabus Marine is already the fourth in line. The exceptional Experience, Black Ops and Blue Shadow models were released in the previous two years. The Panerai Submersible S Brabus Verde Militare is similar to the 2021 Black Ops edition, with a skeletonised movement and well-designed open dial. It is sporting new colour accents to match the paint scheme of the boat that inspired this creation – the Brabus Shadow 900 Stealth Green, built by Axopar Boats based in Finland.
The large 47mm case of the Verde Militare Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Experience Edition PAM01283, the unidirectional, anti-clockwise rotating bezel and the trademark Panerai crown protection and locking mechanism are made of Carbotech. This material is lighter than titanium and highly resistant to corrosion. The dark carbon composite surfaces show rather subtle wave-like patterns; together with the military green-coloured hands, indices and crown, they convey a camouflaged appearance, which never goes out of style. The watch has 300m of water-resistance and offers a GMT function and an “optical polar date”, a date window display at 3 o’clock with no visible date disk underneath. This effect is possible because the date wheel and the date window are angled 90 degrees and act as polarisers, and there is a reflector – a piece of polished metal to assist. It is quite an innovative solution, and Panerai engineers and designers proudly mention its name in white print on the dial’s outer green flange. The GMT hand indicates a second time zone, the day-night indicator you see at 9 o’clock, and the steering wheel-shaped bridge with the Brabus logo not to miss at 7 o’clock. You will also find the Brabus text logo on the crown locking lever and the titanium DLC-coated caseback. The caseback features a see-through sapphire and offers a view of the P.4001/s automatic skeleton GMT movement, not so much revealed dial-side. The tungsten rotor catches the eye, with other elements, like the net of bridges, the mainspring barrels, the red triangle of the 3-day power reserve indicator and the Glucydur balance creating a pleasing but still stealth-inspired image.

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Cartier La Panthère de Cartier

LUCCA, Italy — Entering the Villa Reale di Marlia here, one could easily have believed you had just stepped foot into the world of “Bridgerton.” The 17th century estate, complete with a lush park punctuated by sculptures, lemon gardens, a small lake and the sound of a quartet of violins filling the air, is a lesser-known Italian beauty that has eluded the attention of even many locals.

The picture-perfect spot and idyllic mood came second only to Cartier La Panthère de Cartier new high jewelry collection that was revealed in the villa’s frescoed halls on Wednesday.

After taking press and top clients to Lake Como two years ago, the company returned to Italy, opting for the Tuscan town of Lucca, a 90-minute drive from Florence, to showcase more than 80 never-before-seen pieces.

Talking with WWD, Arnaud Carrez, senior vice president and chief marketing officer of Cartier International, offered several reasons that prompted the decision. He pointed to the long-lasting relationship Cartier has with the country and the pivotal role of the Italian market, both in terms of business and image building. As reported, the company’s ties here have been recently strengthened with a new plant in Turin, which added to frequent product launches as well as to Cartier’s involvement in the artistic and cultural tissue of the country via the sponsorship of the Venice Film Festival and the partnership between Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain and Triennale Milano.

More specifically, the history of Villa Reale di Marlia itself intertwines with the brand’s. After being purchased by Napoleon’s sister Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi in 1806 and being greatly renovated, the property passed to the Pecci-Blunt family in 1923. Through her social events, countess Mimì Pecci-Blunt started attracting artists, aristocracy and jet-set personalities to the location, ranging from Salvador Dalì and Jean Cocteau to Jacqueline Kennedy, to name a few.

“Many of our clients have spent a lot of time in this villa, especially in the ‘50s and ‘60s. The Pecci-Blunts used to be between Paris and Villa Reale and they hosted many parties with many of our clients attending it, so that’s a nice story for us,” said Carrez, crediting as further evidence a recently purchased book belonging to the family with pictures of such gatherings.

Dubbed “Le Voyage Recommencé,” Cartier La Panthère de Cartier high jewelry collection was meant to evoke this continuity as well, reinterpreting the brand’s own history through a contemporary filter for today’s customers.

Rather than choosing an overarching specific inspiration, Cartier’s director of high jewelry creation Jacqueline Karachi and the company’s craftsmen delved into the heritage and reinvented the core aesthetic codes of the house through unique pieces that hinged on interplays of geometries, volumes and new chromatic juxtapositions.

“It’s very consistent in terms of philosophy with what we’ve done in these decades in high jewelry and at the same time it has a new approach on the key themes,” said Carrez, mentioning architecture, nature and dialogue between different cultures as recurring references. “I think this collection pays tribute to this permanent quest for beauty and is again a true testimony of our ability to reinvent ourselves and being very true to our founding identity at the same time.”

Emblematic pieces in the Cartier La Panthère de Cartier collection were the Claustra platinum necklace covered in diamonds, including a remarkable 4.02-carat specimen standing at the center of its geometric and pointy structure. Onyx alternated diamonds and openwork further enhanced the game of perspective and volumes and nodded to Cartier’s signature black-and-white combinations that were first introduced at the beginning of the 20th century. Adding to the technical challenge, the piece was also transformable as the necklace could be split into two separate ones.

A similar transformable feat also defined the Girih necklace, whose central pendant showcasing an oval-shaped emerald could be detached and worn as a brooch. Nodding to Arab mosaics and palette through its geometries and charming color mix of green and turquoise, the piece was intended to celebrate one of the pillars of Cartier’s style — the Islamic art and architecture that Louis Cartier first discovered in 1903 through an exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

Ditto for the Panjara necklace in diamonds — including a rare brown type as centerpiece — and onyx, which was inspired by the light filtering through mashrabiya, a traditional Arab architectural element. Other Middle Eastern nods defined the Sama creation, evoking the dresses of whirling dervishes with its swirling structure in white gold and diamonds that converge around a 19.27-carat Ceylon sapphire.

Elsewhere, the Vespro necklace further built on the game of contrast between static structures and movement with its beaded tips, while the Panthère Givrée necklace celebrated the spirit animal of the jewelry house, introduced in 1914 by Louis Cartier. The realistic shape of the feline covered in diamonds with onyx spots and emerald eyes was flanked by a set of three aquamarines totaling 20.33 carats as well as lapis lazuli for a touch of color.

As usual, the design of each piece was determined by the features of the key precious stones. For example, a rare 0.92-carat gray-violet diamond stood out for sitting on the statement Ondule ring and inspired its bold appearance. Resembling the effect of throwing a stone in the water, concentric lines developed around the centerpiece, with the effect enhanced via diamonds cut in a half-moon shape.

With the appetite for Cartier La Panthère de Cartier high jewelry booming and Cartier’s commitment to improving ethical, environmental and social practices throughout the industry — as embodied by the partnership with Kering on the Watch & Jewelry Initiative 2030 — Carrez identified sourcing as the main challenge for the sector.

“It’s a constant challenge because we are obsessed about finding the nicest stones. We have some very strict guidelines criteria and we are committed to finding the most beautiful natural stones and at the same time to comply with principles not only in terms of quality, but also in terms of provenance,” said Carrez, mentioning decisions not to source from some countries, such as Afghanistan in the case of lapis lazuli. “Plus, with the market being vibrant there is a competition for sourcing precious stones, so the expertise of our buyers is so important… We have people from the stone purchasing department who have been with us for decades, so they have an extensive knowledge… and we’ve built some very strong and solid relationship with our partners. And the fact we have also this unique image in high jewelry, it helps.”

Without disclosing figures, Carrez underscored the dynamism and vitality of the high jewelry category impacts both Cartier’s key current markets — such as the U.S., China and Middle East — and new ones, mainly in Southeast Asia.

“We see new regions growing fast…A few months ago we organized an event in Bangkok and had clients coming from Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore and also Australia,” said the executive. South Korea and Japan, where the company has been focusing with dedicated events for the past decade, are also becoming increasingly relevant for the brand’s high jewelry business.

Carrez also noted that especially in these countries the average age of customers is lower compared to the established ones. In general, he said that already half of the brand’s overall customers are Millennials and Gen Z-ers.

“The share is already high and it’s even higher in some regions. Especially in Asia, we are already perceived as an aspirational brand… for watches, jewelry and sometimes for fine jewelry and accessories. When we look at Cartier’s iconic collections, they are by essence transgenerational, so they do cater to multiple generations. We are not obsessed about [young generations]. We cater to multiple clienteles, including young clienteles, but we don’t have specific collections for them and this is not our intention,” said Carrez.

Cultural and social factors are affecting the geographies of the brand’s high jewelry customers, instead. The executive noted that these kinds of pieces are more challenging to wear in Europe due to a reduced number of special occasions as well as the overall social and economic context, “inducing some of our clients to be cautious and have a more subdued approach,” he noted. Conversely, social events in the U.S., Asia and Middle East spark the demand for such creations.

“That’s why events like this one [in Lucca] are very important for clients. It’s not only for commercial reasons but they are also an opportunity to wear their pieces, which is very important for them,” noted Carrez.

To further celebrate the high jewelry collection, the brand will host a special gala dinner at the Giardino Corsini location in Florence with some of its international ambassadors in attendance.

After hosting top clients in Lucca and Florence, the Italian experience of the brand will continue in Milan with events dedicated to its VICs. Other activities in the country will see Cartier returning for the third year as sponsor of the Venice Film Festival, running Aug. 30 to Sept. 9, and next year taking part in the Homo Faber cultural event celebrating craftsmanship.

Also next year, a new production site in Valenza will be ready. It will be just shy of 55,000 square feet, for up to 180 employees, up from around 40 in the existing one in Valenza.

The Compagnie Financière Richemont-controlled brand has been directly manufacturing in Italy since 2013, when it purchased one of its partners, which itself had absorbed Turin-based jewelry atelier Marchisio, open since 1860.

Cartier currently counts nine manufacturing sites, including Turin, Valenza, its Paris high jewelry ateliers, as well as its Swiss watchmaking plants in La-Chaux-de-Fond and a historical 40-year-old facility in Fribourg.