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Longines Heritage Legend Diver 39 Stainless Steel

Big news for fans of the Longines Legend Diver as the brand’s long-standing vintage effect dive watch has been retooled with a smaller case. Now in 39mm, the 2023 Legend Diver has been resized to reflect the current taste and is now offered in black or blue lacquer dials, and, as is common for the Swiss brand, you get a choice of straps or a steel bracelet.
Both colorways offer the same brand new 39mm steel case, which is 12.7mm thick and 47mm lug to lug. With 300 meters of water resistance, a closed steel case back, and two crowns – one for setting the time (no-date is the only option at this time) and one to control the bidirectional rotating internal bezel – it’s the Legend Diver we’ve known and loved since 2007, but refreshed for maximum wearability.

Replete with COSC certification, Longines has fitted the newLongines Heritage Legend Diver 39 with the brand’s modern and ETA-based L888.6. It’s an automatic movement with 72 hours of power reserve and a silicon balance spring. Furthermore, the Legend Diver is also an ISO 6425-compliant dive watch (for those of you keeping score).
While either the black or the blue dials can be had with a full steel tapered bracelet, the blue version can be optioned with a blue nylon NATO-style strap, or you can get the black dial with a vintage-style brown leather.
As I alluded to above, the Longines Heritage Legend Diver 39 was launched back in 2007, and it was a huge success that put Longines at the forefront of the then-novel “new vintage” movement. Based on a design from 1959, the Legend Diver was originally a Super-Compressor-style diver that measured 42mm wide. For 2023, in a somewhat backward turn of events, the Legend Diver has been re-born with a smaller footprint meant to translate the mid-century design into a sizing that is more in line with today’s tastes. What I find funny – aside from a modern version of a watch being smaller than the 1950s original – is that the 2007 Legend Diver was already a bit small for popular tastes when it launched during a time that was likely more connected to the rise of larger designs like those from Panerai (and let’s not forget that Longines does continue to offer a 36mm legend diver).

But at Longines Heritage Legend Diver 39mm, in an era downstream of the commercial success of watches like the Tudor Black Bay 58, the sizing seems just right. And where the case width has shrunk by 3mm, the lug-to-lug is more than 5mm shorter than on the 42mm model (from 52.4mm to 47mm). For a watch that was often noted as being quite long in the case – too long for my wrist – this change might be the secret to making this beautiful design suit a wider range of wrists.
All told it’s a simple, understandable, and entirely exciting development for one of the OG faux-vintage dive watches. With new sizing, continued tool-level specs, COSC timekeeping, and a variety of mount options, Longines Heritage Legend Diver 39 continues to impress with their 2023 novelties, and I’d imagine that this new take on an old diver will be very popular for those who appreciated the Legend Diver design but wanted it in a more conventional mid-sized offering.

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Richard Mille RM 21-01 Tourbillon Aerodyne

For its latest new release of 2023, Richard Mille has just announced a new version of the RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne that embraces a crisp black and white colorway with a case that is crafted from white Quartz TPT, Carbon TPT, and titanium. From a design and movement standpoint, the Richard Mille RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne is hardly a new watch, as this core concept and the RM21-02 movement were both originally unveiled back in 2009 with a set of models that featured cases crafted from 18k gold. However, the new 2023 RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne takes that original concept in an entirely more modern direction with high-tech case materials and a distinctly contemporary overall appearance.
Over the years, Richard Mille has produced several different variations of the Richard Mille RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne, although the latest 2023 version is most closely related to last year’s limited-edition model that featured green Quartz TPT case components and orange accents. What this means is that you get Richard Mille’s signature tonneau-shaped case in a format that measures 42.68mm in diameter by 14.3mm thick with a lug-to-lug profile of 50.12mm. However, on the new 2023 Richard Mille RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne, the center caseband is made from grade 5 titanium, while the pillars that run down either side of the case and cover the titanium connecting screws are crafted from black Carbon TPT.
The white and black colorway extends throughout the rest of the watch, with the caseback appearing in white Quartz TPT with a clear sapphire display window, while the bezel features a multi-component structure with a black Carbon TPT center section paired with white Quartz TPT segments running down either side for the areas that hold the grade 5 titanium connecting screws. An anti-glare sapphire crystal sits above the dial, water resistance comes in at 50 meters to protect against daily contact, and to complete the entirely white and black color profile, the ventilated strap is made from white rubber with black contrasting inlays.
At the 3 o’clock location on the new 2023 Richard Mille RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne is a winding crown that appears in white and black to match the rest of the watch, and at the tip of the crown is a titanium button, which serves as the watch’s function selector switch. Just like a number of other Richard Mille watches, including previous models based upon this platform, the crown on the Richard Mille RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne does not pull outwards at all, and instead pressing the button on the tip of the crown lets you swap between the different modes (winding, setting, and neutral), in somewhat of a similar fashion to how a transmission works on a car.
The dial layout on the new 2023 Richard Mille RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne is virtually the same as what can be found among previous executions of the model, and it features a skeletonized pair of centrally-mounted hands for the hours and minutes, along with a clear sapphire dial and applied Arabic numeral hour markers. The tourbillon symmetrically resides at 6 o’clock, while the indicator for the function selector switch appears with its own dedicated hand directly next to the 4 o’clock hour marker.
Meanwhile, placed near the very top of the dial are two additional multi-colored, arc-shaped displays, with the one on the left serving as a power reserve indicator, while the other is a torque indicator that provides information about the chronometry quality of the tension in the mainspring. Basically, what this offers is a visual representation of how accurately the watch will run depending on the amount of tension in the mainspring. Above or below a certain point, accurately will suffer, and the torque display is intended to help users achieve optimum timekeeping performance.
Lastly, sitting visible though the transparent dial along either side of the display on the new 2023 Richard Mille RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne is a mainplate crafted from HAYNES 214, which is an alloy consisting of nickel, chromium, aluminum, and iron that is capable of withstanding temperatures in excess of 955 degrees Celsius (1,751 degrees Fahrenheit). The geometric honeycomb pattern of the HAYNES 214 mainplate provides extreme stiffness with a low thermal expansion coefficient, and the alloy has been given a jet-black PVD finish to match the rest of the colorway of this particular model.
Powering the new 2023 Richard Mille RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne is the same Caliber RM21-02 manual-wind movement, which runs at a frequency of 21,600vph (3 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The bridges of the movement are all crafted from grade 5 titanium, and in addition to featuring a function selector switch, tourbillon, and three additional indicators dedicated to the crown function, torq display, and power reserve, the Cal. RM21-02 also incorporates a modular time-setting assembly that can be removed through the caseback whenever adjustments or maintenance are needed, and this means that routine work can be performed without having to dismantle the movement from the mainplate or even remove the dial and hands from the watch.

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Patek Philippe Nautilus 7118 Haute Joaillerie

Patek Philippe had dazzled the virtual audience with the Nautilus in rose gold gem setting (Ref. 7118/1450R-001) earlier this year during Watches & Wonders event. The addition of the white gold appears to be a logical step for the collectors preferring white gold over rose gold.

The case, the bezel, and the bracelet are decorated with diamonds in so-called snow setting. Several rows of diamonds sparkle on the dial, tracing the wave-like pattern that is typically found on Nautilus ladies’ models. It is a noteworthy example of Patek’s breadth in style that combines creativity, and delicate gem-setting in a bold yet elegant way on the Patek Philippe Nautilus 7118platform. Ref. 7118/1450G Nautilus Haute Joaillerie sparkles with 2553 flawless Top Wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds (~12.69 ct). Patek chose the extremely elaborate technique of snow setting, also referred to as random pavé setting. The gem setter places diamonds of different sizes side by side in a random fashion, making sure that as little of the gold matrix is visible between the individual diamonds. Hence, each watch with a snow setting has a unique dial. The dial features luminous Alpha hour and minute hands in blackened white gold, and the applied Arabic numerals made of the same precious metal also have a luminous coating for a perfect legibility, even on an haute joaillerie watch where the emphasis generally tends to be on the stones. The white gold case is powered by Patek’s caliber 324 S automatic movement, the same movement that powers Ref. 5711. The finely finished movement with gold rotor is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The 18K white-gold bracelet is paved with diamonds (~9.22 ct) and features a patented fold over clasp set with diamonds.

The steel Patek Philippe Nautilus 7118 is one of the most iconic sports watches, the most Instagrammed object, and hardest to purchase at the retail price. The “Snowhite” Ref. 7118/1450G-001 in white gold takes it several notches above the steel sports watch with over 12.6 carats of diamonds on the dial, case, and the bracelet. Patek Philippe combines high watchmaking artistry with delicate and rare handcrafts, in this case with gem setting. While Nautilus steel is an understated and refined sports watch, Ref. Patek Philippe Nautilus 7118 transforms the Nautilus from an everyday timepiece to a rare jewelry object. I appreciate that Patek has not added any limitation to this reference, and it is now part of the brand’s standard collection. Although, due to the skills and resources required, it will likely be manufactured in a very limited fashion.

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Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm Philippe Stern

On Friday, the watchmaker revealed a very personal and very rare Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm Philippe Stern, Ref. 1938P-001. The watch is a tribute from Patek Philippe president, Thierry Stern, to his father, former Patek Philippe president, Philippe Stern on the occasion of his 85th birthday. The watch, rather unusually, features the face of Stern Sr., rendered in a white and gray miniature portrait executed in grand feu enamel on a grand feu enamel black dial (“Email” beneath the seconds counter means “enamel” in French). It’s a touching gesture from son to father, however, one wonders which collectors will want to wear the elder Stern’s on their wrist. But Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm Philippe Stern aficionados might appreciate what’s beneath the surface. Not surprisingly, Thierry Stern went all out for this appreciation piece, which houses a brand new Caliber R AL 27 PS. The movement combines the Swiss brand’s famous R 27 caliber, used in its Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175 for the company’s 175th anniversary, with a 12-hour alarm function chiming a programmed time, read via the 18-karat rose-gold Breguet-style hand. And what’s more, the new caliber will be used only in the 30 iterations of this watch and never employed again, increasing the rarity of the timepiece. The movement is visible beneath a hunter caseback engraved with “A Mon Père, 85 ans de passion horlogère” (“To my Father, 85 years of watchmaking passion”) on the cover. Beneath the sapphire crystal glass, another sentimental touch was added to the 22-karat yellow-gold rotor, which is adorned with an engraving of Philippe Stern’s signature. Driving home even further the special nature of the piece are the chamfered edges of the bridges and hammers, which are gilded.

The self-winding caliber R AL 27 PS takes the alarm function and integrates it into the caliber R 27. Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm Philippe Stern engineers had to rethink the minute repeater mechanism to combine the two. Both the alarm and the minute repeater chime on the same two gongs. Once activated via the slide piece on the left flank of the case, the movement can either instantly strike the time on the dial in minute repeater mode or put the stake on hold until the time displayed corresponds to the scheduled alarm time. The two modes are indicated via the bell-shaped aperture beneath the Patek Philippe signature. When in minute repeater mode, the bell is black; in alarm mode the bell is red. A push-piece in the crown allows the user to choose between the two. When in alarm mode, the slide must be actuated again to wind the alarm, changing the bell from red to white. When in alarm mode is white, it means that the alarm has been set but has not yet sounded. While the bell is set to white it’s possible to return to minute repeater mode by pressing the push-piece without the striking mechanism being activated. Like a traditional minute repeater, the piece will sound the hours, quarters, and minutes on demand, but the 12-hour alarm, which is set from one quarter-hour to the next via the crown pulled out in its middle position, strikes two minutes before its set time in order to allow the maximum number of chimes (thereby providing more of a melody). For instance, if the alarm is set at 3 o’clock it would actually go off at 2:58, so the user would hear two low-pitch strikes for the hour, three double high-low strikes for the quarters, and 13 high-pitch strikes for the remaining minutes.

All in all 227 parts had to be added to the movement to accomplish its technical feats. Plus, four new patents were filed for a unidirectional coupling mobile system, a timepiece incorporating a minute repeater and alarm with reversible selection, a timepiece with a repeater and constant-travel slide piece, and a striking mechanism equipped with a delaying device.

The piece is limited to just 30 pieces worldwide. While Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm Philippe Stern collectors may not be sold on wearing Philippe Stern’s face, Patek Philippe enthusiasts may want to get their hands on a piece for the art of its mechanics and, of course, to have the bragging rights of owning the most elevated complication from one of the most coveted (and hard to get) watch brands on the planet.

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Frédérique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC

Despite a relatively young 32-year brand history, Frédérique Constant Highlife Automatic has built a rich and varied back catalog of models throughout its run. One of the proudest nameplates in the marque’s history is the Highlife collection, originally launched in 1999 as a new integrated bracelet flagship for the company. While the Highlife would go on to become one of the most distinctive and influential models in the brand’s history, the Highlife collection has faded into the archives of Frederique Constant in the past few years. As part of its 2020 novelties, Frédérique Constant Highlife Automatic has unveiled a new generation of Highlife watches, featuring streamlined new integrated case designs, dramatically etched dials, and refined, dependable movement work including Frederique Constant’s first ever COSC certified chronometer watch. Not one but three new models have been announced, including the Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, the Frédérique Constant Highlife Automatic Heart Beat, and the Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC. We’ll be taking a closer in-depth look at the Highlife Heart Beat and Highlife Automatic COSC models here today.

Both new lines share a new 41mm integrated bracelet case in stainless steel. Streamlined and clean with an unguarded pillbox crown and a narrow polished bezel, the main body of the case takes on a smooth, vaguely hexagonal form with fine brushing. The delicate contouring work along the case sides allows the case to flow organically around the wrist, creating a smooth and streamlined continuous curve that is as comfortable as it is attractive. With a design so dedicated to the concept of visual flow, the integration of the lugs into the main body of the case is a must. The smooth, rounded half-moon cutout surrounding the integrated link helps to maintain this sense of flow into the bracelet or strap with an evocative, elegant form.

All new Frédérique Constant Highlife Automatic models are also available with rose gold plating, with variants for the Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC available in a two-tone finish. In addition, the Frederique Constant Highlife Heart Beat and Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC are available with all-over rose gold plated variants. Regardless of the metal used, each new Frederique Constant Highlife provides a striking window into the beating mechanical heart of the watch through a sapphire display caseback.

Like the cases, the dials of the new Highlife series models combine refined modern sports watch cues in exciting and distinctive ways to create a handsome and cohesive whole. All new Highlife series share the same pointed paddle handset with matching indices, but without a doubt, the unifying visual centerpiece for all these new models are the engraved dials. Frederique Constant opts for a stylized globe pattern here, giving the design some geometric depth while differentiating itself from more common tapisserie or striped styles. This pattern is surprisingly adaptable as well, displaying vibrantly on navy blue and black dials while lighter silver dials have this engraving fading elegantly into the background.

From here, the new model lines diverge as each iteration takes on its own character. The simplest and most pure expression is of course the Frédérique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC, with an elemental three-hand design unfettered by complications save for a 3 o’clock date. Unlike many contemporary open heart designs, the Frederique Constant Highlife Heart Beat displays a deft visual balance, with the signature 12 o’clock open heart window counterweighted by the dial text at 6 o’clock. The end result is a brilliant synergy between simple design and the ornate mechanical workmanship within. For the Frederique Constant Highlife Heart Beat, the brand turns to the Sellita SW300-1 based FC-310 automatic movement, chosen for its 12 o’clock balance wheel, steady 38-hour power reserve, and 28,800 bph beat rate. Lastly, Frederique Constant powers the Highlife Automatic COSC with the Sellita SW200-1 based FC-303 automatic movement. This is the first Frederique Constant movement to be chronometer certified by the COSC for accuracy, with a 38-hour power reserve and a 28,800 bph beat rate. Both movements are dramatically crowned with a custom signed gold-tone rotor, finely finished with delicate Côtes de Genève. Naturally, one of the largest selling points for the entire new Frédérique Constant Highlife Automatic series is the smooth integrated design, and without a proper bracelet and strap selection, this sort of design simply isn’t possible. The brand delivers solidly on this front, however, with a wide tapering H-link design that pairs polished center links to brushed surroundings for a dynamic, layered look. For those preferring straps, there’s a tapering padded alligator pattern leather option in either black or a deep tobacco brown.

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Corum Admiral 42 Automatic Ceramic

Over six decades ago, Corum presented their Admiral collection that was inspired by sailing races. Today, the collection not only stays true to its historical achievements but also embraces its evolution to deliver some of the most contemporary and exquisite iterations that are best known for their dodecagonal bezel and vibrant nautical pennants on the watch face. With even more passion and commitment, the Swiss luxury watchmakers have combined their design language with horological innovation to add ceramic models to the Admiral collection. These newest timepieces also empower Corum to provide eco-conscious options, aligning with the eco-friendly properties of ceramic materials. The new Corum Admiral 42 Ceramic watches stand out for their remarkable lightness, and not to mention ceramic’s vigour that makes the iterations resistant to both scratches and oxidation. Available in ceramic and gold, the four new references are a bold and beautiful blend of materials and style.
Part of the bleeding-edge Corum Admiral 42 Ceramic watches collection, Corum have unveiled a spectacular timepiece that beautifully melds ceramic and 18-karat 5N gold. Available in two iterations—one in black and the other in white—the timepiece is an amalgamation of audacious design and regal elegance that make for a brilliant wrist presence. The two models have been paired with matching vulcanised rubber straps. The accents in gold for the indexes and hands, along with the gold bezel, create a rich look for the dial. These exceptional 42mm Admiral watches are also capable of withstanding the challenges of sailing adventures, boasting a water resistance rating of up to 50m.
Expanding the Corum Admiral 42 Ceramic watches collection are two other references that use the expression of graffiti to craft captivating dials. The first reference in this remarkable collection is the Admiral 42 Tag, a limited-edition with only 50 pieces available, making it a highly coveted ceramic watch. The Corum tag logo on its dial is a charismatic design that comes to life when it glows in the dark. This timepiece not only captures the dynamic energy of graffiti but also promises stealth with its 42mm sandblasted black case, complemented by a lightweight and comfortable black NATO strap. The second in the series, fashioned from white ceramic, boldly reimagines design with playful multi-coloured paint adorning its indexes and hands. The Tag timepieces, as well as the ceramic and gold variants, are powered by the C0 395 automatic movement, operating at a frequency of 28,800vph and delivering a 40-hour power reserve. With the Corum Admiral 42 Ceramic watches collection, which offers a series of timepieces exuding elegance and extending rugged endurance, Corum strike a perfect balance between its illustrious heritage and modern ingenuity.

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Frédérique Constant Classic Tourbillon Meteorite Manufacture

Frederique Constant is known chiefly for its interesting take on Swiss watchmaking, entirely focused on accessible luxury. With all models, whether a sporty time-only watch, an innovation that no one saw coming or a complex perpetual calendar, the brand always delivers more than expected. With the new Frédérique Constant Classic Tourbillon Meteorite Manufacture, we enter a somewhat different sphere and price segment, which on paper doesn’t really feel like accessible luxury anymore… Or is it still? Marking the 35th anniversary of the brand and the 15th anniversary of its tourbillon calibre, the brand releases a surprisingly high-end, hand-decorated model oozing luxury everywhere. Looking at the brand’s portfolio, you can clearly see a pricing sweet spot ranging from EUR 1.5k to 4k. Some watches, far more complex, can go up to low 5-digit prices, but even there, you’d still get a lot of watchmaking for your money. Today’s watch plays in a different league, sitting well above the 40k mark – far from the brand’s usual comfort zone. Based on the recently launched Frédérique Constant Classic Tourbillon Meteorite Manufacture, a watch powered by an in-house tourbillon movement retailing below EUR 15k in steel, Frederique Constant releases what could well be its most high-end watch to date. And it’s not only about the materials, as the back has some surprises too. Technically speaking, this new Classic Tourbillon Meteorite Manufacture is identical to the previous gold or steel editions of this watch. A streamlined watch entirely devoted to the anti-gravity regulator, it comes in a sleek and nicely proportioned case of 39mm x 11mm but is made of 950 platinum with an entirely polished finish. The dial, which follows the same principle of discretion, retains its thin, elongated markers and lance-shaped hands, as well as the large tourbillon opening at 6 o’clock. What matters is that here it is made from a thin slice of the Gibeon meteorite. Protected by a coat of ruthenium, enhancing its natural grey glints and shielding the surface from oxidation, it offers a nicely textured effect while keeping things low profile. The movement of this watch is, on paper, the same as used before. This means an automatic calibre developed in-house and fitted with a silicon escapement wheel and anchor. Running at a beat of 4Hz, the movement displays a small seconds above the one-minute tourbillon. But most importantly, it’s the back that makes an impression in this edition, with a level of finishing unexpected in a Frédérique Constant Classic Tourbillon Meteorite Manufacture watch. Entirely decorated by hand, the main bridge features a texture reproducing the aspect of a meteorite – it is hand-chamfered, hammered and finished with charbonnage on the frame. Then, the edges are beaded and grained, and parts are decorated on both sides (even those that aren’t visible), the screws are black-polished, and the lower plate is hand-hammered. Finally, the rotor also features bevelling… a significant step change in the quality of the decoration at FC.

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Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase Aventurine

Long before revolutionizing watchmaking with silicium technology and introducing the Freak in 2001, Ulysse Nardin had earned acclaim for its precision marine chronometers. This expertise not only defined Ulysse Nardin’s legacy but also significantly influenced the design philosophy of the brand’s contemporary models. In 2017, Ulysse Nardin launched the Marine Torpilleur, a collection providing a more accessible alternative to its well-established Marine series. Fast forward to 2021, and the Marine Torpilleur series underwent a comprehensive revitalization, introducing new models, including an attractive moon phase watch. This is now further expanded with 300-piece limited edition featuring a midnight blue Aventurine dial. Next to that, the brand also adds a sparkling version of its Diver to the collection, this time permanently. Known as the Diver Starry Night, it follows suit to the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase Aventurine, with the addition of diamond hour indices. Following its debut, the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase became a permanent fixture in the collection in 2022, featuring a 42mm rose gold case and a varnished white dial. This year, the brand unveils yet another iteration of the Marine Torpilleur Moonphase: a model distinguished by its aventurine dial, arguably the most romantic variation in the series.

The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase Aventurine comes in a stainless steel polished and satin-brushed case measuring 42mm in diameter. The fluted (coin-edged) bezel and a winding crown adorned with the UN logo add distinctive touches. A tiny plate fixed to the side of the case displays the watch’s sequential number in the limited issue series of 300. Secured with six screws, the sapphire display back contributes to the case’s overall water resistance of 50m. The dial design and choice of material draws from Ulysse Nardin’s rich history and connection to horological traditions related to the moon, the stars and the sea. The blue aventurine dial is meticulously crafted from fine plates cut from blocks of aventurine, ensuring uniformity, freedom from bubbles, and even sprinkling with copper glitter. The dial layout remains easily readable and mirrors the design of earlier variants, featuring large Roman numerals, rhodium-plated classical spade and whip hands, and a moon phase indicator within the small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. The power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock indicates the remaining mainspring energy hours. The automatic UN-119 movement remains unchanged from earlier iterations – COSC-certified, featuring a silicon balance spring and escapement wheel, and an anchor in Diamonsil. With 222 components, including 45 jewels, it operates at 28,800vph and provides 60 hours of power reserve. The watch is adorned with a blue alligator strap secured with a folding clasp, and it comes with a price tag of EUR 13,800, available as a limited edition of 300.

There aren’t many feelings which are as good as looking into a clear starry sky, as clouds and light pollution make way for the far-off stars and galaxies to show themselves off. Unfortunately, it’s not so easy to drive out to a remote location any time you want to see it, and even then you need to hope the weather is favourable. The UUlysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase Aventurine offers a wrist-size taste of that experience, supported by the wonders induced by high-end watchmaking.

Despite the word Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase Aventurine in the name, this isn’t exactly a seafaring timepiece anymore. The case can handle some splashes and the occasional dunk with a 50m water resistance, but isn’t intended for swimming as shown by the inclusion of a blue alligator leather strap. It uses a stainless steel folding buckle, and curved spring bars for a truly luxurious look. The stitching which runs down the edges of the strap are blue to match, however white cross-stitching is visible towards the strap ends for a more laid-back vintage style.

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Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon phase

First released in 2016, the Senator Excellence collection has soon become the “new classic” of Glashütte Original, with a combination of timeless German design, a contemporary approach of elegance, a powerful and precise movement and a large choice of complications. While rather traditional at first regarding the look of the dials, the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moonphase collection has seen the arrival of more expressive designs over the years, such as this appealing salmon QP. Now, it’s time for some more contemporary dials to join the collection, with 2 new Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar references and 2 new Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moonphase models. Today’s release is all about the addition of new dial styles to the classic QP and Moon/Date models of the Senator Excellence collection. As a reminder, this range of watches was released in 2016 with the goal of setting new standards for the brand. While rather traditional in terms of design, being clearly inspired by Saxon watchmaking, the main interest of the Senator Excellence was the introduction of a new generation of movements, the Calibre 36. Modern, powerful, nicely decorated and elegantly designed, it also came with a strong precision, confirmed by an extended testing procedure. We’ve explained this in this in-depth article. The whole point now is to talk about the new dials, which are different depending on the material chosen for the case. Apart from these far more modern models here, with their textured dials and applied markers, most Senator Excellence watches were available with elongated Roman numerals (typical Saxon) painted in black on the dial. While these are still used in the 4 new references of today, Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moonphase has decided to change things. Red gold versions of the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar and Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase here feature a finely grained dial with silver galvanic treatment combined with applied numerals and hands in solid gold. The steel versions are a bit bolder still, with a grained dial with grey galvanic treatment, applied gold numerals coated in blue and blued steel hands. This style has been first seen in the revamped Senator Chronometer here. For the rest, no evolutions are to be noted. The Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar still comes in a case of 42mm x 12.8mm, while the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moonphase keeps it slightly smaller at 40mm x 12.2mm. In both instances, the case is either steel or red gold, features brushed and polished surfaces, sapphire crystals on both sides and a decent water-resistance of 50m. The gold versions are worn on a brown alligator nubuck leather while steel models can be ordered either on a blue alligator or a blue fabric strap. At the heart of the perpetual calendar is the Glashütte Original calibre 36-12, an automatic movement with a 4Hz frequency, a comfortable 100h power reserve, an anti-magnetic silicon hairspring and a swan-neck fine-adjustment system. The same base movement is used for the Moon Phase Panorama date model, but here known as the calibre 36-24. These movements here come with a new skeletonised double-G logo and oscillating mass in 21-carat gold. The extended testing procedure, which is done over the course of 24 days, guarantees the precision and stability of these movements.

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Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan

Whenever Greubel Forsey creates a new watch, the timepiece unveiled to the public is never just a new dial variation of an existing model. However, some novelties represent greater innovations than others, and as its latest new release of 2023, Greubel Forsey has announced what it calls its 8th Fundamental Invention: the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan. Although Greubel Forsey has created a new heavy-hitter watch that will be available for sale to the public, the bigger story here is the technology behind the movement, which represents a new approach to the tourbillon complication. Featuring an ultra-fast rotation combined with a 30-degree inclined plane and two constantly tilting mounting rings, the new Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan promises optimal chronometric precision, while simultaneously creating a highly dynamic and striking presentation of one of horology’s most prestigious complications. As for the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan watch itself, the new Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan features a fairly simple round-shaped case that is made from hand-finished titanium, and it is furnished with a signed winding crown at 3 o’clock and sapphire crystals fitted to both the dial side of the watch and its screw-on display caseback. The middle case measures 45.5mm in diameter, while the bezel is slightly wider at 46mm, and although the case itself measures 13.81mm thick, the total height of the watch comes in at 18.15mm once you factor in the heavily domed sapphire crystal that covers the mechanical structures that reside on the dial-side of its display. Water resistance for the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan is 30 meters to protect against incidental contact, and the lugs are completed by a black hand-sewn strap with a signed titanium folding clasp that is made from what is simply referred to as a “non-animal material” within the official press materials for the watch. Realistically speaking, the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan is really just a watch intended to showcase a truly impressive 389-component movement, which sits fully visible through both sides of the case. Additionally, just like nearly all of Greubel Forsey’s creations, the movement components play an integral role in the overall aesthetic of the watch, and the large Cardan Tourbillon occupies just as much real estate on the dial of this new model as the elevated and open-worked structure that is dedicated to displaying the time. As far as what you are actually looking at when viewing the dial of the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan, the time appears on the upper right-hand side of the display, the running seconds are presented on the sub-dial below it at the 4 o’clock location, and the power reserve indicator is placed directly next to the hours and minutes on the upper left-hand side of the display. Lastly, rounding out the dial is the watch’s namesake Cardan Tourbillon, which prominently occupies the rest of the space and even cuts into the elevated ring that contains the hour markers and minute track. So, what exactly is a Cardan Tourbillon? In short, it is Greubel Forsey’s new approach to the tourbillon that is intended to maximize the complication’s potential for chronometric precision. It combines three core technologies consisting of a high-speed tourbillon, a 30-degree incline, and a pair of tilting mounting rings. Naturally, the tourbillon serves as the heart of this mechanism, although rather than rotating once every minute like the standard version of this complication, the tourbillon inside the new Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan makes one complete rotation in just 16 seconds, which represents the fastest-moving tourbillon that the brand has put forward yet. By moving through more positions in less time, the tourbillon can work more effectively to average out positional variation. However, Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan also mounts the tourbillon at a 30-degree angle, which optimizes it for the specific positions experienced by a wristwatch, versus the traditional parallel mounting method that was originally conceived for clocks and pocket watches. The final technology that Greubel Forsey incorporates to create its Tourbillon Cardan are a pair of mobile mounting rings, which are connected by two 90-degree axes that tilt backward and forwards every 48 seconds. The tilt of the rings is controlled (+30 degrees to -30 degrees) in order to work in conjunction with the fixed 30-degree incline of the tourbillon, and the end goal here is to create a better ratio of angular velocity to chronometric performance. The movement itself runs at a frequency of 21,600vph (3 Hz), and thanks to the use of four co-axial mounted mainspring barrels, the manually-wound movement inside the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan is able to offer a chronometric power reserve of 80 hours. Additionally, it’s worth noting that this 80-hour figure pertains only to the chronometric reserve of the watch, and while accuracy will likely start to diminish after this point, the actual total duration of autonomy does exceed this already rather generous value.

Just as you would expect from a Greubel Forsey watch, everything on the Tourbillon Cardan is expertly hand-finished, and some components require up to three days alone to complete. A titanium mainplate is combined with bridges crafted from frosted nickel silver, while the titanium tourbillon cage is finished with straight-grained flanks, polished bevels, and a barrel-polished arch, with more than 30 hours of work going into just the finishing of this single component. The multi-level dial is crafted from gold with open-worked pillars to create a highly architectural aesthetic, while the registers for the running seconds display and power reserve indicator are also crafted from gold before being engraved and lacquered to provide them with their final appearance. The lower plate is frosted by hand, the mounting rings for the tourbillon are matte-finished with polished bevels and brushed flanks, and every single surface of the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan has been carefully decorated to create a striking timepiece that showcases a multitude of different textures and finishing techniques.