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Ulysse Nardin Blast 45mm

Though it’s been nine years since he passed, the late Rolf Schnyder comes to mind almost every time I sit down to look at a new watch from Ulysse Nardin. He was a larger-than-life figure in the watch industry and one of the key people behind its resurrection in the years following the quartz crisis. Clearly someone who was not bound by what had already been done, Schnyder employed technology and avant-garde design to breathe life into a centuries-old brand best known for its conservatively designed wristwatches and ship’s chronometers. Then an independent marque, Ulysse Nardin was the first Swiss watchmaker to use silicium, and though many others soon followed, it was UN who showed the way, even as horological purists plaintively wailed that the new material didn’t belong in “real” watchmaking. And while my own personal tastes tend to favor smaller watches of a more conservative style, I have a lot of respect for what Ulysse Nardin does, in large part because I recognize the impressive groundwork laid by Schnyder.
I say this because today, ahead of the Geneva Watch Days event, we have a new watch from Ulysse Nardin Blast 45mm, and considering its large size, use of unusual materials, and unorthodox construction, it struck me as one that Schnyder would have liked. Available in four different variations, the Blast is a 45mm openworked automatic tourbillon with three days of power reserve. In each of the four versions, the movements are framed with a rectangular upper bridge as well as by a bi-color double “X” and, if you flip the watches over, you see the X and the rectangle repeated. As you’d expect from Ulysse Nardin Blast 45mm, the escape wheel, the anchor, and the balance spring are all made from silicium, which benefits both tribology and resistance to magnetic fields.
The movement is the in-house UN-172, a new automatic tourbillon derived from the manually wound UN-171. And, while the new 172 has a less-lengthy power reserve than the 171, it has the benefit of automatic winding. Now, one could certainly argue that a tourbillon like this is hardly an everyday watch, but I think that depends on who’s wearing it as much as anything else. And having a solid three days of reserve means you can comfortably switch it out every so often knowing that it won’t need to be reset for a few days. There’s no date, so setting the Blast is as simple as it gets. Still, having a power reserve that is a convenience rather than an inconvenience is something I’ve come to expect from new mechanical movements coming out in 2020.
There are some other updates beyond the switch to automatic winding (which comes via a micro-rotor positioned at 12 o’clock) and the associated reduction in power reserve. The tourbillon cage, for example, has been redesigned to offer a more open view onto the escapement inside of it.

The watches also have Ulysse Nardin Blast 45mm UN Certification, which is granted following testing of the fully cased up watch to rate tolerances tighter than those required by C.O.S.C. for movements.
Each of the four versions features a four-part case with faceted lugs featuring contrasting finishing, and this part of the design is well worth a close look. The lugs are influenced by the exaggerated angularity of radar-evading stealth aircraft. And by virtue of their multi-piece composition, the cases can incorporate different materials. They have a multi-layer, “stacked” look. But this doesn’t lead to an overly thick-looking watch. The Blast measures 13mm thick, which I think works quite well with its 45mm diameter.

On the Rose Gold Blast below, for example, a black DLC titanium middle case is matched with gold just above and below it, as well as for the lugs. On top is a black ceramic bezel, which provides for a nice, scratch-resistant bit of protection for the gold case. The matte striations you see on some of the gold surfaces have been applied with lasers, UN says. On titanium surfaces in black, the surface treatment is DLC, and where there is a color involved, it’s PVD.
In addition to the new case design, the Blast is also debuting a new folding clasp. When you close the portion with the gold buckle, it sets the other side in motion simultaneously so that you don’t need to grab both parts or close the bottom side first. The clasp can be closed in one easy motion.
Any time a watch is more than 42mm in diameter, I tend to wonder about its wearability. At 45mm, the Blast is right in line with what Ulysse Nardin likes to do these days. Discreetly sized dress watches are something that I associate much more with the company’s past than with its present. While 45mm is not for everybody, there is an enthusiastic audience for watches of this size.
I’d like to get a closer look at these new watches. The angular lugs look like they give the Blast a lot of character. I wonder what a simpler, slightly smaller take on this watch might look like, too. At any rate, given the downward slope of the lugs and the relative thinness of the case, I think there is a good chance that this 45mm watch could wear comfortably on my seven-inch wrist.

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Ulysse Nardin Marine Lady Diver 39mm

As the warmer weather months take over, its means time to pick the perfect summer watch for watch enthusiasts or collectors. This usually means pieces that incorporate a head-turning design with the reliability of being water-resistant for days on the boat. Ulysse Nardin is stretching its aquatic arms with a new Diver Collection, presenting three new models for men and women. The Ulysse Nardin Summer 2021 Diver Collection features the Diver 42mm, Ulysse Nardin Marine Lady Diver 39mm, and Chronometer 44mm, all highlighting the use of quality materials and state-of-the-art technology.
The Diver 42 mm Grey and Rose Gold is a contemporary design made for the deep that is just as cool at home in the city as it is on a sun-drenched shore. With a stainless, “shark gray” PVD satin-finish and polished case, a rose gold 5N and gray rubberized, a unidirectional rotating, concave bezel, and a domed sapphire glass, this new Diver is highly functional and dashing, a watch that will take its wearer from sandy beaches to coral reefs. The gray alligator strap is secured with a stainless steel gray PVD buckle that can withstand the most arduous of feats.
Beautiful to the eye and accurate to a fault, the 39mm Lady Diver Rose Gold is set with 40 diamonds for a total of .80 carats that glisten brightly in the midday sun. Bearing all the hallmarks of a classic Ulysse Nardin Diver, this watch is proof that you cannot judge a book by its cover, and that beauty is not skin deep. Inside the stunning case is the powerful UN-816 movement, an automatic movement that functions at 4 Hz and 28 800 V/H. The mother of pearl dial bears 11 diamonds totaling .12 carats and the white alligator strap is held in place by a 5N rose gold buckle. This is a watch for people who appreciate the aesthetics of fine design yet are unafraid of confronting the unknown in the name of adventure.
The Ulysse Nardin Chronometer 44 mm, with its deep-sea blue color and rose gold details, is the ultimate navigator’s watch. With an escapement wheel and anchor in Diamonsil, the 260 components work in harmony for a flawless look and precise performance. The open sapphire case back testifies to the fine horological mastery that is the rule at Ulysse Nardin, showcasing the balance spring in silicium along with the other parts made in-house to create this technical marvel. Crafted to withstand up to 300 meters of water pressure, it redefines functional elegance and audacious design. Shop the all-new Ulysse Nardin Summer 2021 Diver Collection by clicking the link below.

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Ulysse Nardin Marine Diver Chronograph 44mm

Over the dial is a domed sapphire crystal with AR-coating on both sides. The dial is designed for legibility and just a hint of glitz in the form of the polished hands and hour markers. Ulysse Nardin made sure to keep the dial utilitarian with a matte, textured dial, and easy-to-see-chronograph hands. (Note that both the chronograph and main hands are given luminant for darkness viewing.) Dial symmetry is ideal with even the date being balanced within its own round window right above the 6 o’clock hour marker. Dial text is minimized and neatly integrated into places such as the out seconds scale or within the chronograph subdials. While at first, the Diver Chronograph dial can appear simple, its refined nature allows it to grow on you after having it on your wrist for a while. I further appreciate how Ulysse Nardin was able to take the essence of previous Marine Diver watches but also create something new that we’ve not seen before for the Diver Chronograph 44mm collection.
Around the dial is a smooth-acting rotating bezel that has pleasant audible clicks and whose design again takes inspiration from traditional Ulysse Nardin Marine watches, but also does something a bit new. Aside from the design of the case itself, the bezel of the Diver Chronograph is what gives this Ulysse Nardin watch its primary visual distinctiveness. The chronograph pushers are screw-down, which is a bit of a retro feature, in my estimation. While this is a tried and true means of getting more water-resistance in a diver’s chronograph timepiece, I’d like to see brands move in a direction where the chronograph complication doesn’t need screw-down pushers and that can even be fully operated underwater (maybe not down to 300 meters, but at least 50 or 100 meters). On the left side of the watch is a small metal plaque with the timepiece’s serial number. This area is used for limited-edition numbers, such as on the limited edition America-only red, white, and blue “Hammerhead” reference 1503-170LE-3/93-HAMMER version of the Diver Chronograph.
Inside the watch is a fantastic movement, the in-house-made Ulysse Nardin caliber UN-150. This movement debuted around 2013 and is the brand’s premium automatic 12-hour chronograph movement. The UN-150 is beautiful to behold and operates at 4Hz (28,800 bpm) with 48 hours of power reserve. The 322-part movement is individually regulated for performance at Ulysse Nardin and also benefits from having a silicon escapement for added timing performance. Turn the watch over to view the UN-150 movement through the caseback, which helps add an impressive presentation to this luxury sports watch.
The titanium case makes the watch really feel light on the wrist, which is a good thing. Ulysse Nardin Marine Diver Chronograph 44mm also features an all 18k rose gold reference 1502-170-3/93) version of the Diver Chronograph 44mm that is nearly four times the price (at $38,500 USD) of this titanium model — and comes with the extra weight of gold to boot. That is a wonderful option for those who want to go swimming with a gold watch, but as a tool piece I’m not sure that gold is the best choice — so, my option would be titanium. I think the real value of the Diver Chronograph is a daily wear timepiece if you live in the tropics or warm place where you not only will sweat a lot, but also don’t want to think about swapping out your “nice watch” for something else when you want to submerge yourself in water. That also makes the Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph a great “vacation” watch if you are traveling to a tropical zone.

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Ulysse Nardin Diver X 44mm

Many words can be used to describe Ulysse Nardin’s deep and varied modern lineup, but one unifying concept that ties the brand’s offerings together is audacious design. This commitment to bold and aggressive style flows through its 2021 novelties collection, and the new limited edition Diver X Skeleton is a prime example of this. By combining the impactful and futuristic tool watch principles of the successful Diver X line with the intricate showcasing of the Skeleton X series, the limited edition Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton offers one of the brand’s most unrestrained and vibrant diver offerings to date.
The 44mm case of the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton follows the same sporty modern pattern as previous Diver X models, with a heavily toothed unidirectional dive bezel, distinctive stepped lugs, and low, narrow rectangular crown guards. This combination leads to a bold, hefty presence in initial images, but Ulysse Nardin increases this model’s visual impact further with a few custom touches. The case is finished with a mix of bead blasted and brushed surfaces, then capped off with a deep desaturated navy blue PVD for a dark and oceanic matte look. The concave bezel insert shares this blue shade, but adds a dynamic range of accents with its Carbonium carbon composite construction and bright white diving scale with safety orange accents. This dynamic orange tone reappears for the rubberized orange crown guards, visually breaking up the case side and injecting a touch of dramatic contrast. Ulysse Nardin rates the case of the Diver X Skeleton for a respectable 200 meters of water resistance.
Ulysse Nardin carries over the central “X” motif of the Diver X line with the Diver X Skeleton but carves away nearly everything else to showcase its reworked in-house movement. This multi-part centerpiece functions as much of the bridge assembly for the movement itself, and the brand emphasizes its multi-part construction with several visual layers and a mix of blue PVD finishing shot through with vibrant orange accents. The beveled rectangular indices and distinctive paddle hands of previous Diver X models make an appearance here in the same PVD blue for a cohesive look, and the brand further integrates the internal and external looks with a bezel-matching blue Carbonium cover for the mainspring barrel at 12 o’clock. Ulysse Nardin visually balances this element at 6 o’clock with the intricate and airy silicon balance, with its Ferris wheel-esque arrangement of nickel flyweights.
Inside the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton beats the in-house UN-372 automatic movement. Using the Skeleton X line’s UN-371 movement as a base, the UN-372 adds an X-shaped winding rotor to the skeleton design. Outside of the skeleton flourishes, finishing for the UN-372 remains somewhat spartan, without embellishment to distract from the silicon escape wheel, anchor, and balance assembly. The power reserve stands at 96 hours at a slightly low 21,600 bph beat rate. The Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton is paired with the brand’s modern and sporty rubber strap in a choice of either matching midnight blue or a bold diving orange for added visual impact
Combining its aggressive modern diver design language with an intricate skeleton dial and an attention-grabbing colorway, the limited edition Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton delivers one of the boldest and most dramatic offerings on the brand’s current menu. Only 175 examples of the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton will be made to commemorate the brand’s 175th anniversary in 2021. The Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton

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Ulysse Nardin Trilogy 41mm

Cross-industry collaborations tend to be a bit hit-or-miss, especially when the co-branding of the product is somewhat half-baked. What is more interesting, however, is when two brands from very different commercial worlds sit down and put their heads together to come with something that effectively blends their regular products’ aesthetics while simultaneously harnessing the technical attributes for which each company is known. This can result in a new and novel proposition for both parties. The Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Phantom Limited-Edition Watch created in conjunction with Devialet is an excellent example of this kind of partnership bearing palatable fruit.
On the surface, a luxury speaker company and a luxury watchmaker don’t seem to have too much in common aside from the word luxury. However, there is more than one thing binding these two brands together. First is a bizarre familial link between the two: Emmanuel Nardin, one of the founders of Devialet, is a direct descendant of the Ulysse Nardin family. Second is the pursuit of excellent sound: Devialet through its market-leading speaker systems and Ulysse Nardin through its mastery of striking movements.
Real technical substance underpins this joint venture. Both Ulysse Nardin and Devialet put their research and development teams to work on this project with a simple goal: To create a watch with unrivaled acoustic performance and sound quality.
The watch takes its name — Phantom — from Devialet’s flagship product, The Phantom. A new generation of high-definition connected speakers, The Phantom can kick out sound up to 108 dB SPL (that’s pretty loud in layman’s terms). By sharing their experiences in their respective industries, Ulysse Nardin and Devialet have managed to get the output of the Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Phantom Limited-Edition Watch (reference 6103-132) up 85 dB to 100mm (remarkable for the watchmaking industry). You can hear this refined sound either every 30 minutes (on the hour and half-hour) or on command by depressing one of the two case pushers. The second pusher can be used to switch the 30-minute chimes off, should you need a bit of quiet.
One of the hardest things for any brand concerned with making a striking mechanism with exceptional audio clarity to master is keeping the case wearable and robust. Here, Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Phantom Limited-Edition Watch has excelled by keeping the diameter of the polished titanium case down to 43mm. As one would expect for a striking watch, the water resistance is only 30 meters, but, in truth, this is one kind of watch I wouldn’t want anywhere near water at all, considering the caseback features eight perforations for improved sound delivery.
So how have they done it? What have they changed to achieve such a loud and crisp sound? The self-winding UN-610 movement has a few tricks up its sleeve to go along with a sufficient 42-hour power reserve. Most notable is an alteration to how the “timbre” (the piece that is is struck by an internal hammer to emit a sound) is fixed in place.
When the timbre is struck it causes vibrations in the air around it, resulting in sound being created. Normally, these vibrations occur within the very limited air supply within the watch. The sound is effectively trapped inside the watch. What Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Phantom Limited-Edition Watch and Devialet have done, is set that sound free. In the UN-610 caliber, the timbre’s heel is attached to a system of torsion arms, which react to the vibrations around them, essentially forcing the sound out of the case, via transmission arm communicating these vibrations to a thin membrane that sits on the underside of the watch. The membrane’s large surface area acts as an amplifier, displacing a much larger amount of air than one would normally have to play with inside a watch case. Truthfully, this mechanism’s theory is comparable to that of a loudspeaker and its cone and membrane.
The handsome and (visually) striking dial design is inspired by Chladni’s figures, which are shapes formed by the materialization of vibratory waves (anyone who had an old Windows media player will get the idea). This particular pattern is reminiscent of the protective net placed over the tweeters in Devialet’s speakers. The unusual orientation of the Arabic numerals is a nod to the way a Naval compass might be printed and a link to Ulysse Nardin’s nautical history. The Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Phantom Limited-Edition Watch comes on a black alligator strap fastened by an ardillon buckle.

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Ulysse Nardin Dual Time 42mm

Recently, Ulysse Nardin has demonstrated its boldness by designing ultra-modern watches with architectural openworked movements or complex displays. The brand is also about complications and, ironically, the simplification of these complications. One should keep in mind the work undertaken by the brand with Dr Ludwig Oechslin to simplify its perpetual calendar. In the same vein, one of the most emblematic displays by UN is the dual time and today this watch gets a complete overhaul. Meet the fully reshaped Ulysse Nardin Dual Time 42mm.

Making complex things simple was Oechslin’s philosophy regarding watchmaking during his days at Ulysse Nardin. He was the creative genius behind the Freak, the Trilogy of Time collection (a trio of watches named Astrolabium Galileo Galilei, Planetarium Copernicus and Tellurium Johannes Kepler), and of course, the Perpetual Calendar he created for the brand in 1996 to celebrate its 150th anniversary. But prior to that, in 1994, another watch made some noise, the Dual Time, with its patented instant time zone adjustment – one of the most practical of its kind on the market.
Now, in 2020, the brand has reshaped its strategy and remodelled most of its collections, with a far more daring design language and modern shapes. As such, the new Ulysse Nardin Dual Time 42mm isn’t the watch you’ve known in the past. Forget about the classic, round Dual Time of the early 2000s, the new models are sporty and contemporary. However, what hasn’t changed is the super-practical way of setting the time when travelling.
The Dual Time models have a case inspired by the brand’s recent creations, such as the Skeleton X with the iconic three-horn lugs and contrasting colours for the case and its bezel. Measuring 42mm in diameter, it is available in three versions: two of them are made from brushed stainless steel with a contrasting bezel in blue or in black; the third model is the top-of-the-range, with an 18k rose gold case and a blue bezel. The strap is perfectly integrated with the rest of the watch and is available either in alligator or in structured rubber.
The dial also recalls some of the boldest creations of Ulysse Nardin with its large Roman numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock and the central applied rectangle in the middle – a design element found in some openworked movements, here integrated into the display. The dial is sunray brushed and is available either in black or in blue. The applied indexes, hands and rectangle match the case material.
What really matters is the display, with central hours and minutes for the local time, a patented big date at 2 o’clock, a small seconds at 6 o’clock and, important, a circular window at 9 o’clock with a magnifier. This is your permanent home time indicator. Regarding settings, the Ulysse Nardin Dual Time is among the simplest to set. The central hour hand adjusts forwards or backward with the simple touch of the “+” and “-” pushers located opposite the crown. Changing the time zone when landing after a flight is a matter of seconds.
Powering this new Ulysse Nardin Dual Time 42mm is the calibre UN-24, an automatic movement fitted with the brand’s patented dual time module on top. Running at 4Hz, it stores 42 hours of power reserve. The movement, visible under a sapphire caseback, features a new oscillating weight with a prominent, encircled UN logo.

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Ulysse Nardin Classico Jade 37mm

In 2013, Ulysse Nardin Classico Jade 37mm launched Jade as a tribute to a revered gemstone that the royal court in China considered “crystallized magic”—the link between heaven and earth. Now, five years later, five new Jade ladies pay homage to an even more precious stone: the diamond.
These exquisite timepieces have a new round case shape and a new home in the Classic Collection. Graced with classic hour, minute and second hands powered by the collection’s dedicated calibre, the self-winding and ever-reliable UN-815, the flagship editions fuse Haute Joaillerie techniques, time-honoured craftsmanship and captivating feminine allure.
Ten diamonds in a delicate leaf-like wave motif adorn the lower left quadrant of the round mother-of-pearl dials; 76 more sparkle on the stunning bezel in stainless steel.
The very feminine color options – blue leather strap and oversized blue Arabic indexes, white leather strap with grey numerals, or garnet red leather strap with red numerals – perfectly match the mother-of-pearl’s sumptuous tones and the diamonds’ incandescent fire.
The blue and grey editions are also available with more discreet bezels in unadorned stainless steel.Ulysse Nardin Classico Jade 37mm

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Ulysse Nardin Classico Jade 37mm

In 2013, Ulysse Nardin Classico Jade 37mm launched Jade as a tribute to a revered gemstone that the royal court in China considered “crystallized magic”—the link between heaven and earth. Now, five years later, five new Jade ladies pay homage to an even more precious stone: the diamond.
These exquisite timepieces have a new round case shape and a new home in the Classic Collection. Graced with classic hour, minute and second hands powered by the collection’s dedicated calibre, the self-winding and ever-reliable UN-815, the flagship editions fuse Haute Joaillerie techniques, time-honoured craftsmanship and captivating feminine allure.
Ten diamonds in a delicate leaf-like wave motif adorn the lower left quadrant of the round mother-of-pearl dials; 76 more sparkle on the stunning bezel in stainless steel.
The very feminine color options – blue leather strap and oversized blue Arabic indexes, white leather strap with grey numerals, or garnet red leather strap with red numerals – perfectly match the mother-of-pearl’s sumptuous tones and the diamonds’ incandescent fire.
The blue and grey editions are also available with more discreet bezels in unadorned stainless steel.Ulysse Nardin Classico Jade 37mm

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Ulysse Nardin Classico Manara

Celebrated Italian erotic comic book artist Milo Manara and legendary watchmaker Ulysse Nardin Classico Manara have teamed up to create a series of ten enchanting erotic watches.

Milo Manara’s erotic watches take you on a voyage into the depths of a mythical sea of desire where Ulyssa, a mermaid, and Nadia, a woman, meet, discover and love each other in a timeless, nautical reverie.
Based on Manara’s illustrations of underwater encounters between a hauntingly beautiful woman and a mythical mermaid, the watches are a palindrome, each one a unique, timeless moment that exists independently from the others. Using micro painting over 150 years of watchmaking knowledge and experience, Ulysse Nardin Classico Manara has transferred Manara’s story onto ten watch faces in a series that is unveiled for the first time at the SIHH in Geneva in January 2019. Where mermaids and sharks bask freely in clear waters, in an underwater world freed from the constraints of time, the tale told on each one of these ten, unique watch faces is a visual feast recounting of a love story between an earthly woman and an other-worldly mermaid. The Sapphic story unfolds under the waves, in a place where time has no bearing.
A mermaid and a human meet and engage tenderly under the watchful eye of a distant shark. Like the sirens in Homer’s classic tale of Ulysses, Manara’s mermaid enchants the young woman, taking her into a sensual embrace. Each scene is a moment where time disappears, and love propels them as they rock gently in the ocean waves.

“I had to think of a theme that brings all these ten images together and yet leaves each one its autonomy, so that it works on its own without the need for the others”, Manara explained from his studio in Valpolicella, Italy. “This is not a linear story but there is a common thread based on two characters; one is a timeless girl and the other, a mermaid”.
Born in northern Italy, Manara has been a graphic illustrator for over fifty years. He was classically trained as a painter, studying the works of Rubens, Caravaggio and de Chirico before defining his own style. For this series of watches, Manara chose a universal theme – erotic love – and created characters that exist in their own time frame.

“It is clear that these women represent an ideal. If we look at Greek classicism and the Renaissance, one can see that the morphology of the physical model has changed over the centuries. I see my work as a continuous reinterpretation of the ideal model.”
Manara has created just ten of these illustrations, a series that Ulysse Nardin has reproduced using micro painting. High in the swiss mountains, artisans at the Ulysse Nardin Headquarters in Le Locle have been working during approximately 50 hours around the clock to miniaturize each of Manara’s drawings on the dials, a surface which is roughly ten times smaller than the original water color paintings. The art of miniature painting shows that perfection is indeed in the details.
There is an explosion of colours in the sensual details. From the deep blue of the sea to the coral reef barrier, to the little waves details on the surface of the water and the color of the mermaid’s lips and jewels, it has all been painted by hand using a brush the width of a single eyelash. Patience is key. To enhance Manara’s erotic scenes, a lacquer has been applied as a topcoat on the acrylic painting, reflecting the light and nobility of Manara’s art work. Made of polished stainless steel, these Milo Manara special editions will also be manufactured in 5N rose gold. Ten pieces per drawing will be produced in stainless steel and ten pieces in rose gold, making the series limited to a mere 200 pieces in total.
Powered by the UN-320 self-winding manufacture movement and beating at the rhythm of silicium technology – which Ulysse Nardin Classico Manara has mastered for decades – only the hours and minutes are displayed in order to leave a maximum amount of space on the watch faces for the drawings. The hands are discreet, leaving the drawings to star on the face of each watch. These Classico Manara in 40 mm will be set on dark blue alligator straps to align with the color tonality dictated by Manara. As a special gift from Ulysse Nardin, each watch purchase will be accompanied by an original numbered Milo Manara print, signed by the artist himself.

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Ulysse Nardin Classico Manara Manufacture 40mm

It might surprise you to learn that the Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture will be the first watch in the brand’s Classico range to feature its own in-house movement. The Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture is a simply styled watch, with a pleasingly restrained dial that features central hour and minute hands, a going seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock, and a small, round date window within the seconds sub-dial. Let’s take a quick closer look at this new release.
As expected on a restrained “Classico” watch, the hours are marked by applied thin gold lines, while 12, 3, and 9 o’clock are indicated by slender Roman numerals. All of the markers are applied, in contrast to the sub-dial surround, which is sunk into the dial. This multi-levelled approach creates a bit more interest in a dial that could otherwise appear plain. In addition to the gold markers, the dial of the Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture is marked with small luminous dots. On the cream dial, these white dots are almost invisible in daylight, but come alive after dark, making this piece usable no matter the time.
There’s a fine line between plainness and successfully executed classicism, and I think the Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture strikes a good balance. The dial is finished in a slightly iridescent frosting, which is continued by the edge of the sub-dial, before giving way to a concentric circular ridge pattern. There may not be much going on, but the subtle shifts in patterning or depth give just enough visual engagement to make this watch face desirable. Getting this right, or even bothering to use the different patterns in a creative but tasteful way is essential to any good design.
The established Ulysse Nardin anchor logo is also applied in the same material and fashion as the hour markers, creating a satisfying link between all the necessary dial elements. The gold hands themselves are of a simple, traditional shape with bold luminous inserts. They are excellently weighted and look very elegant against the reserved backdrop and within the slick case that is designed to catch eyes, not cuffs.
The 40mm case is made of 18ct rose gold and stands just 9.6mm from the wrist. The classically styled housing is polished with no sharp edges – perfect for being worn under a shirt cuff. The front and back crystals are both sapphire, with the dial-side crystal treated with an anti-reflective coating for enhanced clarity. The watch is held on your wrist by a leather strap, brown for the cream dial variant, and colour-coded blue for the blue dial model. The strap is fastened by a tang buckle, which I think is a good choice for a watch this classical in style.
So when you turn the watch over in your hands, what do you see? Through the sapphire case back, the new in-house UN-320 movement is visible. The rotor weight dominates the aperture and is rendered from matching rose gold and sports a black Ulysse Nardin logo against a nicely patterned background. The UN-320 features a silicium hairspring and an anchor escapement. It has automatic winding and has a power reserve of 48 hours. The case is water resistant to 30 meters, but it’s not a watch that is designed for active wear.
The bi-colour movement has rhodium plated bridges, finished with a circular Geneva wave. The proliferation of blued screws (with three visible screw heads attaching the rotor bearing to the automatic device framework) and the meatiness of the red jewels (of which there are 39 in total), gives this in-house calibre a real sense of colour. In addition to the chunky jewels, the pivots that can be seen poking through appear refreshingly robust.
It doesn’t seem that Ulysse Nardin have attempted to do anything too flashy with the design of this movement, and they should be applauded for their restraint. Its one unusual complication is the ability to set the date both forwards and backwards, which is something that has become almost a trademark feature of Ulysse Nardin by now. It will probably save you a handful of seconds a year, unless you wear this watch as an occasional piece, in which case, this extra function becomes quite useful. For a brand that makes its hay by launching crazy, mind-blowing machines, the Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture is a very welcome addition to a range that was in need of some mechanical modernisation. It will carry a price tag of $14,500. With a versatile in-house calibre in their pocket, expect Ulysse Nardin to roll out the UN-320 and its derivatives across a range that should become more desirable for its presence.