Posted on by

MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential EVO

MB&F Replica Watch has over the years created a mind-boggling array of mechanical fantasies that are, in essence, incidental objects for telling time. Assuming the most bewildering forms, they have institutionalized a new vocabulary of watchmaking in which mechanics put themselves at the service of hardline aesthetics that lasso in everything from pop culture to science fiction. While the Horological Machines were a no-holds-barred exercise in pushing past the limits, the Legacy Machines, with their round cases and classic complications, were an avenue for creativity to thrive under those limits.

Having addressed traditional complications such as the tourbillon and the perpetual calendar in imposingly innovative ways, the brand has now unveiled its first chronograph – the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO. Like the Replica Watch Legacy Machine Perpetual, the movement was conceived by the talented Northern Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. It’s rarely ever that the following can be said about chronographs, but this is unlike anything we’ve seen before in chronographs in every way — construction, function and aesthetics. It houses two vertically coupled, column-wheel chronographs and features a groundbreaking ‘Twinverter’ binary switch, allowing multiple timing options including split-seconds and lap timer modes. Impressively, they all run on a single escapement and balance, rather than two independent trains, which speaks volumes of its complexity and holistic design. Moreover, the construction is consistent with the Legacy Machine range, where the mechanics are exposed on the dial and a balance wheel is suspended high above it by an elegantly arched balance bridge.
Available in either atomic orange or coal black, the dial features two symmetrical, openworked chronograph displays with a pair of chronograph seconds counters located at nine and three o’clock, and a pair of 30-minute totalizers positioned at 11 and one o’clock respectively. Each chronograph can be started, stopped and reset completely independently from each other via the usual two-pusher configuration on either side of the case — start/stop pusher at the top and reset at the bottom. But where it differs dramatically from any other chronograph in function is the presence of a fifth pusher, located at nine o’clock, that acts as a binary switch dubbed the ‘Twinverter’ that inverts the current start/stop status of each chronograph. If both chronographs displays have been stopped, pressing the switch causes both of them to resume or start simultaneously, while if both of them are running, pressing the switch starts both chronographs; and lastly, if one chronograph is running and the other has been stopped, the Twinverter stops the one that is running and starts the one that is stopped.
This single function opens up a magnitude of possibilities for measuring elapsed times. On top of being able to time two independent events with different start and end times, which is carried out individually via the first four pushers, it can be used to measure the two events that start simultaneously, but have different end points, essentially functioning like a split-seconds chronograph. It can also be used to measure the individual cumulative durations of two discontinuous events, which will come in handy as you switch between two different tasks and wish to track the time you have spent on each one. This can be done by starting one chronograph as you begin the first task, then pressing the Twinverter when you switch over to the second task, and pressing it again as you return to the first task.

Lastly, it can be used to time the sub-durations of a single continuous event, akin to a lap timer. Actuating one chronograph at the start of an event and using the Twinverter upon the completion of a lap stops the chronograph and instantly launches the second chronograph to time the next lap, allowing ample time for the first timing result to be recorded.
The Replica Watch movement is housed in an EVO case which is essentially a fortified and enhanced variation that first made its debut in the Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in 2020. It is made of zirconium, a hypoallergenic metal that is lighter than steel and more durable than titanium. Measuring 44mm by 18.2mm, the case is notably complex with a recessed caseband and angular lugs that accommodate an integrated rubber strap.

Its bezel-free design sets the stage for the perfectly symmetrical movement. Instead of the usual domed crystal with a highly pronounced arch, which will only add height to the already thick movement, the crystal incorporates two subtle angles to form a smooth arch and keep its height at the minimum.

Most notably, the EVO Replica Watch case incorporates an annular shock-absorbing system, dubbed ‘FlexRing’, fitted between case and movement. Machined from a single block of stainless steel, it encircles the movement and fortifies it from the rigors of an active lifestyle. Lastly, the case also features a screw-down crown to provide a water resistance of 80 meters.

Posted on by

Frédérique Constant Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph Automatic

In 2022, Frederique Constant is celebrating the 70th anniversary of its long-standing automotive partner, Austin-Healey, and is renewing its intangible loyalty with two exclusive limited editions. For the occasion, its new mechanical chronograph, the Frederique Constant Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph Automatic, has adopted the “British racing green” colour of the legendary vintage car with the NOJ393 number plate. With a bicompax dial and two racing red hands, this timepiece is produced in two versions: the first, limited to 10 watches with the 70 figure visible at midday, and the second, with a run of just 700 watches, with the “12” in its normal place.


Three letters, three figures: NOJ393. This is the number plate of the famous Austin-Healey 100S, bought in 1969 by a fan of the legendary car. It was the outcome of the collaboration between the Austin Motor Company and that of the driver, Donald Healey, also a creator and designer. A responsive and distinguished racing car, the only one of its kind, of which one of the last original cars was this famous NOJ393 purchased at that time for £155. It fetched 1 million euros when it was sold in December 2011.
This out-of-the-ordinary enthusiasm demonstrates the power of attraction the vintage Austin Healey has on collectors of beautiful machines. Its perfectly controlled lines, simultaneously rounded and tight, have made it a model of styling. Its legendary “British racing green” livery has become a classic. 2022 marks the 70th anniversary of the creation of this legend, of which the Frederique Constant house in Geneva has been the key partner since 2007. The occasion to offer vintage car fans a collector’s piece to wear on the skin: the Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph Automatic.
The new Frederique Constant Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph Automatic is offered in two versions sharing a 42 mm steel case as well as a common look. Except for one small detail, which makes all the difference: only 10 timepieces will be produced of the first, and instead of the the “12” index at midday, Frederique Constant has placed the “70” which celebrates the creation of the Austin-Healey firm. The second, limited to 700 timepieces, prefers the watchmaking tradition in which the figure 12 is in its normal place and the “70th Anniversary” wording is at 6 o’clock.
The engine: the mechanical FC-397 calibre automatic winding. On the rev counter: 28,800 beats per hour. Its tank: 48-hour power reserve. Bodywork: British racing green. Dashboard: bicompax, in the purest watchmaking tradition. On the left, the seconds counter for the timing part; on the right, the chronograph’s minutes counter. The index and timer are in pure white for perfect legibility on the matt-finish dial, indispensable for a watch dedicated to motor racing. The racing spirit of the piece is emphasised by the two hands of the chronograph which stand out in their bright red hue: the central hand for the seconds and that at three o’clock for the 30 minutes countdown.
The two central hands of the hours and minutes, as well as the indexes are a silver-tone and impressed with a luminescent material. Along the 12 o’clock – 6 o’clock axis the two logos of the house reply to each other, a symbol of their long and faithful union: “Frederique Constant – Geneva” at midday, “Healey” at six o’clock, in its legendary original font.

As for the chassis, the timepiece is closed by a back open onto the movement and etched with a “Limited Edition XX/10” or “Limited Edition XX/700” number. The watch is worn on an asphalt black strap finished with two lines of topstitching, like two white lines marking the edges of the track. To perfect this parallel with motor racing, the new Frederique Constant Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph Automatic is supplied in its dedicated case alongside a miniature replica of the famous NOJ393.
The union of Frederique Constant and the Austin-Healey firm is no real coincidence. Both companies are driven by the same passions and values which brought them together in 2004 and which continues today: the love of beautiful machines, precision, the celebration of timeless design, the combination of leather and metal, comfort and above all, a certain art of living. Frederique Constant’s Vintage Rally collection, dedicated to this partnership is all of that …and lots more besides.

Posted on by

Longines Ultra-Chron Diver

Heritage revivals are all the rage right now, and the manufacture that really kicked off the trend was Longines – the entire heritage collection range is devoted to digging into their rich archives and resurrecting their historic designs. From the Heritage Military to the BigEye Avigation Chrono to the Legend Diver (among others), their heritage designs have enjoyed tremendous success over the years. Today, we have a new installment into the heritage collection: the hi-beat Longines Ultra-Chron Diver.
The dial matches the colour scheme of the bezel, with a black dial that utilises a rhodium-plated central hours hand and a red central minutes hand. The grained texture of the dial creates the time-capsule vibe that buyers love about heritage designs, creating vintage sensibilities for the modern watch. Also further driving home the heritage nature of the novelty is its applied “Ultra-Chron” logo at 6’, perfectly mimicking the style of the logo found on the original diver. Rhodium-plated applied indices convey each of the hours, and each, like the central hours and minutes hand, are filled with SuperLuminova for visibility in darkness. Now the dial purists watching this will likely have already noticed, but missing from the dial, in line with the original, is a date complication – keeping a clean, symmetrical layout and aesthetic.
There are two configurations you can purchase the Longines Ultra-Chron Diver in. The first, which would be my pick, includes a stainless-steel bracelet. The second option is a brown leather strap instead of the bracelet. A third option exists where you can purchase either the bracelet or leather strap, which comes in a special wooden presentation box along with recycled black NATO strap with a central red stripe. Personally, I am a bracelet guy and, considering it is a dive watch, don’t particularly love the idea of wearing it on leather. But if leather is your jam, considering getting the additional NATO strap so you’re covered off for any aquatic adventures you might have planned. A strap-tool comes with each of the wooden box options allowing you to switch between the respective pair of straps.
Inside the watch, underneath the engraved solid caseback, is the automatic Longines Ultra-Chron Diver calibre L836.6 – a 36,000 vph, or 5Hz, hi-beat calibre with an anti-magnetic silicon hairspring and a power reserve of 52 hours. The calibre is also highly accurate, certified by TIMELAB as a “ultra chronometer”. This means the movement is tested to run within +6/-4 seconds cased, over a 15 day period under three different temperatures: 8, 23, and 38 degrees celsius – ultimately meeting the ISO 3159 standard.

Posted on by

Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon

This is one of those watches that really started with a movement and was built out from there. The new CFB T3000 caliber is the latest in-house movement from Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon and it’s a relatively large movement that has both a peripheral rotor for automatic winding and a tourbillon that is mounted with a peripheral cage, making it look like it’s floating without any bridges (essentially one-upping the single-bridged flying tourbillon). As if that wasn’t enough, the movement also has a stop-seconds mechanism for the tourbillon so you can set it precisely to the second.

To house this movement, CFB has created the aptly-named Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon DoublePeripheral. It takes the familiar styling of the brand’s Manero collection, with its sharp hands and markers, clean dial layout, and relatively traditional case shape, and uses it as a way to present the T3000 with minimal intrusions.
My favorite thing about this watch is that, at first glance, you might not realize it’s anything particularly special. I mean, sure, it’s a tourbillon, but most brands are making those in some fashion or another these days. It’s only when you look closer and start to learn a little about the movement’s idiosyncrasies that you start to discover the most interesting bits about this latest Manero.

However, despite the technical brilliance and the appealing style, this watch is much larger than I’d hoped it would be at 43.1mm across and 11.57mm thick. The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon movement is on the wide side, especially with the peripheral rotor, so it fills the caseback nicely, but on the wrist I have a hard time believing this one isn’t going to wear large.

Posted on by

Carl F. Bucherer Manero PowerReserve

Though the Carl F. Bucherer Manero PowerReserve from Carl F. Bucherer is far from a new release (it launched back in 2013), we were still rather taken by the vibrant green hue that was added to the collection earlier this year. CF Bucherer was one of 11 brands to add green to its repertoire in 2017, and alongside its deep blue sibling, the dial change was a breath of fresh air to the otherwise conservative model range.

We’ve long been fans of all things CF Bucherer—a brand that was created at the founding of the famed Bucherer watch and jewelry store chain based in Lucerne. The brand started manufacturing their own in-house calibers in 2008, and with every new release we’ve been consistently impressed by the finishing of their movements and cases, as well as each piece’s overall design. We opted to examine the new PowerReserve to see if its sheen would wear off after a week on the wrist.
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero PowerReserve wins all the points here. The biggest flaw we found with the original variants of the piece was that the sectioned dials were a touch underwhelming. The use of two different finishes between the center of the dial and the outer perimeter under the hour indices was an interesting detail, though with the four separate indications to contend with, those original models were a bit busy. Even disregarding the color of the dial, having one single sunburst finish to the dial makes the design of the Manero PowerReserve much more cohesive.

Looking specifically at the dial and accompanying strap, there’s a lot to take in. For starters, this is not your average sunburst dial. Depending on the lighting and angle from which you’re looking, it has a unique fading to it—much akin to a vintage timepiece that might have seen a touch of sun over the years. Much like the perfect pair of distressed denim, CF Bucherer found the ideal gradient to ensure the Manero PowerReserve stands out from any other green dial on the market. Matching this varying hue is a supple calfskin strap dyed in dark green, whose color also fades a number of shades lighter as it extends away from the watch case.
Powering the Carl F. Bucherer Manero PowerReserve is the CFB 1011 self-winding caliber, which adds a power reserve, day, and date indication to its base automatic caliber equipped with a peripheral rotor. This peripheral rotor design allows CF Bucherer to maintain a slimmer overall movement—in this case 6.3mm high—and allows for an unobstructed view of their movement architecture. In the never-ending sea of self-winding calibers that tend to all blend together, the architectural nature to the CFB 1011’s design is a welcome sight to say the least. At full wind, the piece has a power reserve of 55 hours.
The Manero PowerReserve is an impactful piece on the wrist, and it’s an ideal candidate for those wanting to sport a light pop of color. Tonal outfits in shades of grey, tan, or even deeper earthen tones would be nicely contrasted by this little hit of green. On the more casual end of the spectrum, the bold polos we recently covered from Ralph Lauren’s limited edition polo collection (the Tour Jacket Polo Shirt) would also be a perfect match.

Posted on by

Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama

The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date engenders a sense of nostalgia, evoking memories of when platform heels were all the rage and the Mercedes SL Pagoda was the stuff of schoolboy dreams. Recently, Angus Davies was granted the opportunity to spend a few days with this fascinating chronograph.
There comes a point when several sprigs of grey hair appear atop a middle-aged head. It is often at this moment there is a desire to look back at one’s salad days, a period when moments were bathed in optimism and most of life’s journey had yet to be travelled. This is manifest with the number of pop bands from the 80s choosing to do revival tours, engaging with former fans, the so-called fiftysomethings. The overwhelming desire to relive the best years will be familiar to many people of my generation.

In my youth, I lacked the pecuniary means to buy the cars of my dreams. Now, as a ‘mature’ gentleman, I can afford to purchase some of the cars I once craved as a child. The only problem is that such cars often lack the refinements we have grown accustomed to with modern vehicles. For example, drum brakes have been supplanted by disc brakes, cars now have ABS braking and provide superior levels of safety. Put simply, retro styling is often accompanied by out of date technology.

Glashütte Original has looked to the past and produced a range of models imbued with a dose of retro charm. However, where these watches are superior to their vintage forebears is that they also encompass the benefits of modern-day watchmaking. For example, the mainplate and three-quarter plate are made using state of the art CNC machines, capable of milling metal to tolerances of just a few microns. Recently, I had the opportunity to don a tank top and a pair of flares and enjoy some ‘hands-on’ time with the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date.
Over the last few years, I have worn several timepieces from Glashütte Original and I have never been anything less than impressed. The brand’s dials, made in its own in-house facility, are beautifully executed and the blue vista presented on this version of the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date proves no exception. Both the sunburst decoration and snailing are subtle and tasteful.
The incorporation of the power-reserve indicator within the lefthand counter and the unusual 12-hour chronograph register, heighten the overall appeal of the dial. However, no elements detract from efficiently imparting the time. Quite simply, the display also proves eminently legible. I am also very fond of the Panorama Date which converses with the wearer intelligibly.

Perhaps it’s a function of my upbringing, but I appreciate products which convey a sense of worth. The Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date has a welcome heft, suggesting a high degree of value. Moreover, wherever you look there are numerous refined details and an overriding sense of quality.

The Manufactory has been at pains to point out that it has adopted a simplified column wheel mechanism. I must be honest, I found the pushpiece feel to be very agreeable and comparable with many other watches featuring a column wheel and lateral clutch or vertical clutch. Furthermore, there are a myriad of additional mechanical refinements which heighten the overall ownership experience.

The TV-style dial/case combination may not be to everyone’s taste, but I love it. The watch embraces retro styling, but incorporates the technical refinements of a modern-day timepiece. Indeed, the best analogy I can think of is a 1970s Mercedes SL Pagoda with ABS, traction control and a satellite navigation system. In my opinion, that sounds like a mouthwatering ownership proposition.

Posted on by

Replica Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback

The Carl F. Bucherer Manero collection of watches are amongst the luxury brand’s most classic offerings, with fine complications like a moonphase, tourbillon, and perpetual calendar all making their home in the line. For Baselworld 2016, Bucherer has introduced a sporty new Manero column wheel chronograph, an imminently classic two-register chronograph in stainless steel and 18k rose gold with – yep, you guessed it – a flyback function. The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback Chronograph watch provides a handsome and classy option for collectors looking for something a little different from the standard fare, all in a gorgeous package.
As the story goes, “Manero” is actually derived from the Latin term manuaria, meaning “that which is led by the hand.” It’s a nod towards the brand’s Lucerne origins in the late 1800s, grounding the collection in the traditions of fine Swiss watchmaking, and also one meant to sharply contrast the brand’s sportier Patravi line, whose ScubaTec and TravelTec options carry a sophisticated, yet slightly over-the-top modernity to them. At any rate, there’s no mistaking the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback Chronograph for its place in the Manero collection, as those classic themes run rampant throughout the watch – not only through its movement execution, but in its design as well, exhibiting faceted indices, oversized dauphine hands, and a bi-compax layout paying homage to the early days of auto racing.
Visible through the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback Chronograph’s sapphire glass caseback, is the CFB 1970 caliber – a 25-jewel movement with a 42-hour reserve produced in-house by Carl F. Bucherer. The rapid-fire reset of the flyback function is controlled by a column wheel and actuated by the pump pusher at 4:00, enabling the wearer to measure multiple time intervals in quick succession. The 43mm case is nicely balanced, giving off an air of a classical driver’s chronograph in the pusher design and dial layout. The silver dial itself is also an exercise in depth and detail, with recessed subdials and applied indices matching the case material in either stainless steel or 18k rose gold.
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback Chronograph is going to be available in either stainless steel or rose gold, though for now we have images and information on the rose gold version,

Posted on by

Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback

It’s often forgotten, when watch enthusiasts tally up the relatively few remaining independent, family-owned Swiss watch brands, that Carl F. Bucherer is one of them. The watch brand is a subsidiary of the Bucherer Group, which traces its origins to 1888, when founder Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback Chronograph opened a jewelry and watch boutique in Lucerne, Switzerland. Today the Bucherer Group is still family, with Jörg G. Bucherer – 82, and the grandson of the founder, Carl Friedrich Bucherer – still active as chairman of the company’s board of directors. One of the most notable recent events in the Group’s history is its 2017 acquisition of Tourneau, which should give you some idea of the considerable clout the company has globally, and it seems reasonable to assume that the subsidiary watch brand (Carl F. Bucherer was established in 2001) will almost certainly become more visible in the U.S. market than has been the case.
The Manero collection is one of five main collections, and, along with the Patravi collection, it is made up of what would traditionally be considered men’s watches. Though of course the distinction is a bit outmoded these days, many Swiss watch companies define their collections in terms of conventionally masculine or conventionally feminine products. In the same vein, the Patravi watches have a bit more of a sports-luxury feel, while the Manero collection features cases and designs that would not, at least in terms of design details, have looked out of place in the 1950s, although physical dimensions are contemporary – the Manero Flyback Chronograph has a 43mm x 14.5mm case. Both collections feature watches that use variations on the company’s in-house CFB A1000 movement, which is a peripheral rotor caliber first introduced in 2008, and which was followed up with the A2000 series in 2016 (for more, check out our hands-on with the Manero Peripheral, right here).
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback Chronograph was also first introduced in 2016, and it represents a very conventional and very much Swiss approach to making a chronograph. The movement is not in-house, although that is certainly not a knock against the watch at this under-$10,000 price point – in-house self-winding chronographs are relatively rare, and at the Manero Flyback Chronograph’s price, even more so. They do exist, and so the Manero Flyback Chronograph, at $8,700 in steel (and $21,400 in rose gold) is not without competition – two contenders are the Zenith El Primero in steel (the 38mm model is $6,700) and, at an even gentler price, Seiko’s Presage Chronograph, which, with an enamel dial, and a vertical clutch, column wheel movement, is €2,650 (approximately $2,815).
On the Manero’s side, however, is the fact that while the movement is not strictly speaking in-house (caliber CFB 1970 is derived from the ETA 7750) it has been significantly modified, including the addition of a column-wheel control system rather than the stock lever-and-cam mechanism, as well as the addition of a flyback function. Longines does column wheel chronographs for as little as $3,000 however again, the flyback function is absent.

Of course, a feature-set comparison is only part of the story. It’s an often-repeated retailer’s truism that to sell a watch you just have to sell the dial, and the Manero’s quality of construction, fit and finish should enter into the equation as well, when evaluating it against the competition. After all, on features alone a steel Daytona is overpriced, at least at first glance, at $12,400, but there are plenty of people who would willingly sell a parent to a Barbary corsair to get their hands on one.Carl F. Bucherer’s watches in general, live in the details, and the diamond-shaped applied indexes, skeletonized hands, and combination of brushed and matte dial finishes, as well as the nicely beveled lugs on the case, all speak positively of CFB’s attention to detail in the design and construction of the watch. The two-register design and placement of the date window at 6:00 create a balanced, informative, and legible dial and albeit the date window is not a generally favored element to the Hodinkee reader (at least, those who leave comments!) it’s well incorporated into the overall dial design.The movement is well and appropriately finished for the price: neatly executed Geneva stripes on the rotor and plate, with blued screws. CFB has also gone to the trouble to integrate the case-back engraving into the overall design of the case itself; the engraving flows nicely around the indentations for the caseback wrench. Overall, the first impression one has in the metal of the Manero Flyback Chronograph (in steel, with light grey alligator strap) is of quietly solid execution, if not actual inspiration in design. With the exception of the size (and the fact that it’s self-winding; automatic chronographs didn’t hit the market until 1969) this is a watch that’s almost completely drawn from the mid-20th century playbook of watch design, which is all to the good. Where I do think the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback Chronograph may struggle is with its dimensions.
There are no absolutes when it comes to size and watches – the wearability of a watch is affected by everything from its overall weight, to its diameter, thickness, and lug-to-lug dimensions, to how the strap or bracelet is attached to the watch, the use of a pin buckle or folding clasp, and so on. However, 43mm x 14.5mm is going to present a problem to exactly the group of potential clients who might otherwise find the design compelling enough to seek out the watch in person: people interested in a traditionally designed, two-register chronograph with good attention to dial and construction details and a slightly vintage feel. It’s not so much that the watch feels awkwardly large on the wrist; it doesn’t, and there are many popular modern chronographs with similar dimensions (including the Speedmaster Professional at 42mm; the Heuer Heritage at 42mm; the Presage Chronograph at 42mm.

Despite the fact that the size is challenging, given the tastes of likely customers for the watch, the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback Chronograph represents some very attractive, honest watchmaking. It would be very interesting to see CFB bring out some smaller watches, though – the one consistent impression I have of both the Patravi and Manero collections, is that they would benefit from offering CFB’s undeniable facility with classic wristwatch design, with more classically oriented physical dimensions. Of course, size is relative and for the more physically imposing gent for whom a 38mm watch is less attractive, or for someone who just prefers a larger watch, the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback Chronograph is an interesting alternative to the usual suspects.

Posted on by

Carl F. Bucherer Manero DoublePeripheral

This is one of those watches that really started with a movement and was built out from there. The new CFB T3000 caliber is the latest in-house movement from Carl F. Bucherer Manero DoublePeripheral and it’s a relatively large movement that has both a peripheral rotor for automatic winding and a tourbillon that is mounted with a peripheral cage, making it look like it’s floating without any bridges (essentially one-upping the single-bridged flying tourbillon). As if that wasn’t enough, the movement also has a stop-seconds mechanism for the tourbillon so you can set it precisely to the second.

To house this movement, CFB has created the aptly-named Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon DoublePeripheral. It takes the familiar styling of the brand’s Manero collection, with its sharp hands and markers, clean dial layout, and relatively traditional case shape, and uses it as a way to present the T3000 with minimal intrusions.
My favorite thing about this watch is that, at first glance, you might not realize it’s anything particularly special. I mean, sure, it’s a tourbillon, but most brands are making those in some fashion or another these days. It’s only when you look closer and start to learn a little about the movement’s idiosyncrasies that you start to discover the most interesting bits about this latest Manero.

However, despite the technical brilliance and the appealing style, this Carl F. Bucherer Manero DoublePeripheral watch is much larger than I’d hoped it would be at 43.1mm across and 11.57mm thick. The movement is on the wide side, especially with the peripheral rotor, so it fills the caseback nicely, but on the wrist I have a hard time believing this one isn’t going to wear large.

Posted on by

U-Boat Capsoil Doppiotempo

A luxury watch brand reputed for their creativity and technological prowess is U-Boat. Their Italian craftsmanship is influenced primarily by founder Italo Fontana who seeks to shape and evolve their current collections into something new and unique. On trend is the new U-Boat Capsoil Doppio Tempo watch collection, a duo of designs which combines the DNA of a 1930’s watch with one of the brand’s best-selling modern-day models.

The U-Boat Capsoil Doppio Tempo watch was originally launched back in 1938 for the Italian army’s parachute assault regiment, the Col Moschin. Since then, it’s dual time function – which suitably translates to “Doppiotempo” in Italian – has remained a constant in the brand’s collections offering essential tools for even the most intrepid endeavour, military or otherwise. On the other end of the spectrum is the U-Boat Capsoil, an inevitably modern watch first seen in 2019 with a mechanism and dial completely immersed in an oil bath. This ground-breaking concept not only effortlessly lubricates the movement but provides an unmissable dial layout with ink-black colouring, a three-dimensional finish and a wandering compensation bubble. Today, these elements of past and present unite for the U-Boat Capsoil Doppio Tempo.
Originally founded in 1942 as Officine Fontana, the brand was created with an intention to supply watches for the Italian Navy. The watches were well-engineered, with advanced designs to meet the Navy’s technical specifications. The project was forgotten subsequently, as the military contract was not realised. It was only in 2000 where the blueprints were discovered, which subsequently led to the rebirth of the brand.
The U-Boat Capsoil Doppio Tempo watch is a nice watch with an interesting provenance to boot. We like the heritage behind it, as well as the functionality of the watch. It is also very well-priced too, which makes it a highly exciting prospect.

Truth to be told, the older U-BOAT watches are not entirely our cup of tea. It is a little too brash and loud, although there are definitely collectors who have a thing for such timepieces. But the 1938 Doppiotempo had changed our mind entirely. This is actually well-made and highly versatile watch. The leather strap is also worth a mention, and we especially like how U-BOAT had additionally included the “Doppiotempo” engraving on it.

The 1938 Doppiotempo is a hidden gem. We highly recommend collectors to take a look at this watch, especially if one is looking for something that is different from the crowd. It is seriously underrated, and frankly, the brand has got strong potential to do well if it continues to produce such wonderful timepieces.