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Frédérique Constant Runabout Automatic

These limited-edition Frédérique Constant Runabout Automatic watches are inspired by “gentlemen’s sport boats of the roaring twenties.” It’s important to explain this and emphasize their nautical, Italian nature as well as the wood and chrome runabout boats (“most commonly seen on the canals of Venice”) they are meant to reference – because otherwise they might be mistaken for just basic but handsome, three-hand automatic Swiss watches. So, with that imagery in mind, let’s consider how these Frédérique Constant Runabout watches fit into the brand that is so well-known for entry-level value.
The entry-level Swiss luxury watch market must be an incredibly intense space to operate in. Frédérique Constant has proven itself agile and dynamic, however, recently offering in-house movements, a “horological smartwatch,” a perpetual calendar watch for around 8,000 Swiss francs… all among their standard fare of good value for classic and mostly uncontroversially designed watches. The Frédérique Constant Group also has Alpina for sport watches and Ateliers DeMonaco for more haute horology stuff. And now, they have been acquired by Citizen Watches, which also puts them under the same expanding umbrella as Bulova, Arnold & Son, Angelus, and movement maker La Joux-Perret. So, there is a lot going on at Frédérique Constant, and looking at the brand, I think: “They are in it to win this game.” They are, at the very least, certainly worth keeping tabs on.
The Riva Historical Society provides the context for this batch of limited edition Frédérique Constant watches. Frédérique Constant partnered in 2009 with the Italian non-profit organization that helps preserve these cool old boats, and the brand puts out limited-edition watches to honor the relationship each year. Past models included chronographs and moon phases, and these Frédérique Constant Runabout Automatic watches offer just three-hand time-telling, and the date at 6 o’clock. This picture should give you a basic idea of the kind of boats we are talking about and the lifestyle association they are going for:
What may help these Frédérique Constant Runabout Automatic watches stand out a bit, and what may not be immediately clear from these images, is that the somewhat conservative designs come in a 43mm polished case. That should give some wrist presence and machismo to their otherwise restrained personality. They appear designed to be elegant and not overly flashy – which I can appreciate – and legibility promises to be pretty good on both models, but especially the white-dial one.

All the basic stats and details you should be looking for in this segment check out, of course: sapphire crystal, some texture and dimensionality to the dial, lumed hands and indices, and a see-through sapphire (that’s a bonus) caseback to display the Swiss automatic movement. The case is water-resistant to 100m, which seems appropriate for a watch with an aquatic theme – and we’d actually like to see pretty much all modern watches with that rating.
The Frédérique Constant Runabout Automatic is powered by the automatic (obviously) FC-303 movement (4Hz, 42-hour power reserve) which is a base Sellita SW200-1 “assembled in the Frederique Constant manufacture.” It’s sure to have a custom-decorated rotor of some sort, but we unfortunately don’t have any images of that for the moment. The flag of the Riva Historical Society is also apparently etched into the case back window.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition

Time and music are closely related, and regardless of the specific genre or the artist who creates it, all music can be described as different sounds organized in patterns that are based upon time. Representing this connection between timekeeping and music and celebrating the manufacturer’s close relationships with various famous artists throughout the music industry, Audemars Piguet has unveiled five new Royal Oak Offshore models that are inspired by recording studios and the world of live music. The new watches include both 37mm and 43mm sizes and feature cases crafted from either 18k white gold, titanium, or black ceramic that are paired with Tapisserie dials inspired by the VU meter lights found on recording consoles.
The titanium and white-gold versions of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition are offered in both 37mm and 43mm sizes, while the black ceramic model is exclusively available in 43mm. The cases of the new models follow the Offshore collection’s bold rendition of the original Royal Oak’s angular shape and include its iconic octagonal bezel fitted to their top surfaces for an instantly recognizable overall appearance. However, while the titanium and black ceramic models are fitted with standard bezels crafted from their respective case materials, the two white-gold editions feature bezels set with rainbow-colored “Harmony-cut” gemstones (rubies, tsavorites, and multiple colors of sapphire) that mirror the colors of the VU meter motif on their dials.
As a further nod to the music industry and the equipment found inside recording studios, all of the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Music Edition watches feature crown guards that are shaped like the faders on mixing consoles, complete with track engravings next to them on the side of the case. Beyond that, the small center links that connect the case of the watch to their straps are finished with a distinct knurled-texture that mirrors the pattern found on the ends of cable jacks. Similarly, all of the AP Royal Oak Offshore Music Edition watches include an anti-glare sapphire crystal fitted above their dials, along with a second one placed in the center of their display casebacks to offer an unobstructed view of their self-winding movements. In between the fader-inspired crown guards resides a screw-down winding crown, which offers either 50 meters (37mm models), or 100 meters (43mm models) of water resistance.
The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition watches all feature time-only dials that mirror the appearance of VU meter lights like the ones found on the equalizers of audio mixers or recording consoles. While the dials themselves still feature the Royal Oak collection’s signature Tapisserie aesthetic, the familiar grid-like appearance is now home to numerous multi-colored rectangles that start on the bottom and move towards the top of the dial, changing in color the higher they get, just like the lights of a VU meter.

Although all of the dials offer this same equalizer motif, they are not the same across all of the different watches. The two titanium models feature blue backgrounds with their colorful VU meters printed on their surfaces, while the black ceramic version includes a black background for its printed VU meter. However, both 37mm and 43mm white-gold models feature blue aventurine dials, which have the different colors of their VU meters created by multicolored “Harmony-cut” gemstones (rubies, peridots, tsavorites, and sapphire) that are invisible-set into their surfaces. On all of the dials, applied white-gold hour markers and matching luminous hands display the time of day, while an angled chapter ring in either black or blue serves as the minute track.
Powering the two 37mm versions of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition is the Caliber 5909 movement, while the three different 43mm models all run on the Caliber 4309. Both in-house movements feature three-handed time-only displays and run at a standard frequency of 28,800vph. However, the larger size of the Caliber 4309 means that it is able to achieve a longer power reserve than its more compact sibling, and it offers users 70 hours of autonomy compared to the 60-hour power reserve of the Caliber 5909.

All of the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition come with a quartet of rubber straps consisting of one in either black or blue to match their dials, along with three alternate options in turquoise, yellow and green. Additionally, the straps for the 37mm models include a “mosaic effect” pattern on their surfaces and they include the same interchangeable strap system that first debuted on the full-size Offshore collection in 2021. Fitted to the straps of the titanium and ceramic models are titanium pin buckles, while the two white-gold editions receive matching folding clasps made from 18k white gold.
Despite being one of the luxury watch industry’s most prestigious manufacturers and having a history that dates all the way back to 1875, Audemars Piguet has never been afraid of shaking things up a bit and releasing something a bit unconventional. The very first Royal Oak was seen as a groundbreaking design when it first appeared in 1972, and models such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition challenge the notion that expensive watches always need to be serious items.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41 Pink Gold

Audemars Piguet unveils a new evolution of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-winding Chronograph, upholding the Manufacture’s forward-thinking spirit while keeping with traditions.

Housed within a 41mm 18-carat pink gold case, this model is equipped for the first time with the latest generation chronograph movement, the Self-winding Manufacture Calibre 4401, visible through the watch’s sapphire caseback. Two dial options are available, executed in blue or brown hues.
For the first time, the self-winding Manufacture integrated chronograph, Calibre 4401, launched in 2019 within the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet, appears in the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-winding Chronograph collection. This movement features a column wheel and the flyback function that enables to restart the chronograph without stopping or resetting it first.
The column wheel works in collaboration with a vertical clutch system. When the chronograph is started or stopped, the hands respond accordingly without any hint of jumping. Furthermore, the push-pieces feel smoother when pressed. A patented zero resetting mechanism ensures that each one of the counter hands instantaneously resets to zero.
For the first time, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-winding Chronograph has been fitted with a sapphire caseback, affording sight of the integrated chronograph’s column wheel mechanism in action. Moreover, the wearer can admire the views of the 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight and refined finishing, including “Côtes de Genève,” circular graining, circular satin and polished chamfers throughout. The case, which has been modified to accommodate the new movement, now has a slightly thicker height of 12.4mm. The dial features a “Grande Tapisserie” pattern and pairs blue or brown hues with pink gold-toned counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating. The Manufacture has subtly updated the dial design. The positions of the minute counter and hour counter have been reversed, augmenting readability, while the date disc is located closer to the inner bezel.
The model is available with a matching 18-carat pink gold bracelet or a colour-coordinated alligator strap.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding 41

It wouldn’t be SIHH without some updates to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding 41 collection. This year we’ve got a new base model Royal Oak in the form of the ref. 15500, replacing the ref. 15400 that came out back in 2012. The ref. 15500 is still a 41mm, automatic Royal Oak with classic looks, but the proportions and detailing have been updated with increased legibility and cleanliness in mind. Specifically, the date window is now further from the center, the applied luminous indexes are a bit wider, and the minute track is printed on the very edge of the dial outside the “Grande Tapisserie” pattern. There are five references in total, three in stainless steel (with blue, grey, and black dial options) and two in rose gold (one on a bracelet and one on a strap, both with black dials).

One of the most important updates though is the use of a new movement, the caliber 4302. This in-house movement was just introduced yesterday in the three-hand CODE 11.59 model (see, we told you AP would likely roll these movements out to other watches). This is a much more modern movement than the classic caliber 3120 that powered the ref. 15400 – it beats at 4 Hz instead of 3 Hz, it has 70 hours of power reserve instead of a 60, and it was designed and made totally in-house. Now, this has the added effect of making the watch thicker too, with the ref. 15500 measuring in at 10.4mm top to bottom instead of 9.8mm. Whether or not this makes any difference is yet to be seen, but we’ll be looking for it when we see these in the metal soon.
For many die-hard collectors, the “Jumbo” is the “base” Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding 41, but that’s just not the case. The ref. 15202 is tough to come by and represents a very small percentage of the overall Royal Oak production. It’s this watch, the ref. 15500, that forms the true foundation of the collection, and the technical and aesthetic tweaks offer both something new for customers right now and some insight into where AP sees the Royal Oak going overall.

One of the things I find interesting about the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding 41 ref. 15500 is just how different is actually is from its predecessor. It would be easy to shrug this release off as an incremental update – that was definitely my first reaction. But just look at how different the 15500 appears from the 15400 when you put the two side by side (the 15500 is on the left, the 15400 on the right):
And that doesn’t even take the movement swap into account. I think that while it’s not a particularly splashy release, we’re going to look back at this watch as one of the more important introductions of the fair in terms of impact on consumers.

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Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600-0002 Replica

For decades, the Rolex Sea-Dweller maintained a 40mm diameter. However, that all changed in 2017 when the brand introduced the reference 126600. As the latest edition of its famed deep saturation diver, the Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600 is complete with a 43mm case, integration to the cal. 3235 Perpetual movement, a Cyclops magnification lens on the dial, and the return of the bright red ‘Sea-Dweller’ logo on the dial.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600 represents the latest in Rolex innovation and it is perfectly on-trend with current watch tastes. Known as the bigger and more capable sibling to the iconic Submariner dive watch, it’s no wonder why so many loyal Rolex customers have their eye on this absolute stunner. Read on to learn more about the latest example of the stainless steel Rolex Sea-Dweller and find out how to get one on your wrist.

In the weeks leading up to Baselworld 2017, the speculation as to what Rolex would be releasing was rife. With astute watch collectors quickly pointing out that 2017 marked 50 years of the Rolex Sea-Dweller, the community braced for an anniversary edition.

We all know — and love — that Rolex celebrates iconic anniversaries, and more often than not it’s a sophisticated touch here and there. Think back to the Rolex Submariner (ref 16610LV), where we saw a green bezel, or the more recent Rolex Day-Date 40 (60th anniversary Edition), with a stunning green dial. For all that, they’re instantly recognisable: Rolex are subtle — one of their core strengths is to design and manufacture timeless wristwatches. A Submariner from 1970 looks just as good as a current production Submariner, and that’s because Rolex doesn’t do rapid change. They move to the beat of their own drum. So, when the doors to the fair opened, attendees (myself included) swarmed to the Rolex booth, fighting to get the first glimpse of exactly what this would be. Glistening in the window sat the brand new 50th Anniversary Sea-Dweller. Since that initial exciting glimpse, I’ve managed to spend a bit more time with the new Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 126600, which replaces the short-lived reference 116600, known to many as the ‘SD4K’.

Logic says this is a tool watch, built with deep sea divers in mind. Emotion says this is equally for the die-hard desk divers (which includes yours truly). It’s the perfect watch for someone who’s picked up a Submariner, or SD4K, and craved a little more wrist presence, both in size and weight. The same wearer who loves the sound the Cerachrom bezel makes, as they turn it around, all 120 clicks. The wearer who lives for the sound the oyster class makes, as you shut the Fliplock.

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Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar

From renowned manufacture A. Lange & Söhne to the modern independent brand of NOMOS (and many others), Glashütte in the eastern part of Germany is the birthplace and home to German watchmaking. It is also home to a brand that bears the town’s name in its own name, Glashütte Original. I won’t go into the history of G.O. too much but I highly recommend reading into its history, as its journey to where it is now is quite interesting. Though G.O. manufactures many styles of watches, their Pano line is probably one of their more popular collections, in which I will talk specifically about the Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar in this review.

The watch has a diameter of 40mm, case thickness of 12.7mm, a lug-to-lug of 47mm, and a lug width of 20mm. The measurement that perhaps sticks out the most is its thickness. There is no denying that the PanoMaticLunar is chunky. On the wrist, it has substantial presence. You can view this as either a pro or a con. If you’re after a svelte dress watch that tucks away neatly under a cuff, this may not be the watch for you. However, if you’re after a modern watch that won’t look out of place with a suit and in more casual settings, then its thickness is a plus. It gives off a “sportier” vibe, if you will.
The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar fits comfortably on my 16cm (6.3″) wrist, though it does appear to be larger than 40mm due to its thin, sculpted bezel. The dial of the watch, though asymmetrical, is very balanced and pleasing to look at. The hour, minute, and seconds are on the left side of the dial and the moonphase and big date located on the right side which creates a sense of harmony and doesn’t jar its wearer into thinking something is askew. The galvanized blue dial shifts from demanding your attention in the sunlight to shying away in the shade. The moonphase display is white and complements the blue dial nicely. Its other party piece (one of many) is its big date. Unlike the big date utilized by A. Lange & Söhne, G.O.’s big date disks lie on the same focal plane. For some, this is a better execution of the big date design. However, I’ve come to find that I actually prefer the execution of the Lange big date disks because it adds a sense of depth to an otherwise flat dial. (Disclaimer: I did replace my PanoMaticLunar for a Lange 1). Ultimately, it is up to you to decide which is the “better” execution but this was my experience in owning both the Lange 1 and the PanoMaticLunar.

When you flip over the watch and you’re treated to a visual feast. The movement is generously decorated with a skeletonized micro-rotor, the famous Glashütte stripes that opens up dimensions with the direction of light, and a hand engraved balance bridge with a double swan neck regulator. The entire movement exhibits high polishing, heated blue screws, and beveled edges. A quick glance at the movement can turn into several minutes staring into the labyrinth (and perhaps an awkward reaction from coworkers asking what you’re doing); it’s that good!
After all that comes the big “but”: …but it looks like a Lange 1. It’s no secret that the Pano collection is inspired by the Lange 1 (I mean, Glashütte Original’s HQ is literally right next to Lange. Wouldn’t you be interested to see what’s going in your neighbour’s backyard too when there’s a commotion?). But I don’t think they should be looked at as an alternative to the Lange 1 for those who can’t afford (or justify) the exorbitant amount of money for one. The concept may be similar but their execution is different. Lange only offers their watches in precious metals. The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar series comes in stainless steel (as well as PM). Though inspired, the watch is different enough not only in design but in character that it feels like a completely different watch. The Lange stands stern and straight-faced. The GO, more playful. Ever wanted a stainless steel Lange? Glashütte Original.

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longines dolcevita quartz

Earlier this year, Longines added two new Art Deco sector dialled automatic watches to their longines dolcevita quartz Collection. The collection is the brand’s answer to a classically styled Tank-shaped watch. These new iterations translated the design of their Heritage Classic Sector Dial into the more dressy confines of a DolceVita. As the watches have started to hit boutiques and authorized dealers, I decided to take closer look at what Longines is offering here.
After a few calls, I tracked down the new references to the Westfield World Trade Center Mall in New York City. Within its confines exists the Longines Boutique, which currently is the only location in the city that had the four references I was interested in viewing. Once inside, I got to spend a few minutes with each, trying to get a better sense of wearability and sizing.
While the charm of it all is alluring, there is a level of consciousness you have to have in order to pull it off. For starters, walking into the train station each day I found I needed to put my hand over the pocket the pocket longines dolcevita quartz watch rested in so that I could ensure the turnstile did not smack it. You also, at least in regard to how I wore it, need to be aware of what you lean on or brush up against as you really want to avoid shock and damage. I also, if I am being totally honest, felt less confident pulling it out while riding the train. Whether holding a sizable piece of solid gold in a closed city train car, or the threat of train turbulence throwing me around while holding it, the anxiety outweighed the charm factor in those moments on the subway.

Another aspect to consider is the wardrobe a pocket watch requires. Sure, I didn’t go full Peaky Blinder get-up. But, when the temperature is hovering close to 90 degrees, having a jacket on is not always ideal. Theoretically, I could have clipped the chain to a belt loop and put the pocket watch in my pants pocket. But, I typically have my phone in one pocket and my keys and AirPods in the other. So, short of having a bag with me, or putting the pocket watch in my back pocket (which would be incredibly risky and stupid), this was not really feasible for me to do. It also wouldn’t have conveyed the style I wanted to have while wearing it, looking more like a chain-wallet than a modern take on how a pocket watch was classically and elegantly worn.

Probably the biggest scare I had was the threat of rain/moisture. I was very vigilant about knowing the weather forecast each day, but, at times, the weather can be quite unpredictable. So, after a day at the office, when I stepped out on to the street and received an invitation to meet up for dinner with some colleagues I was excited to get an end-of-day meal. But, as I started to text to reply that I would join them I suddenly felt a rain drop hit my head. I headed back beneath an awning to stop and look at the current forecast, and when I saw rain was imminently on the way I knew I needed to rush home before I, and more importantly the pocket watch, got soaked. longines dolcevita quartz Watches of this age are not really water-resistant, so they are definitely not ideal around liquid.

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Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black

Last year, Ulysse Nardin debuted its Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton, which brought the bold skeletonized design of the Blast collection to the brand’s lineup of dive watches and paired it with a lightweight and highly-durable Carbonium bezel. The original model featured a stainless steel case with a blue and orange color profile, and all 175 pieces of the limited-edition watch rapidly sold out immediately following its launch. This year, Ulysse Nardin is bringing back its popular skeletonized diver in the form of the Diver X Skeleton Black, which largely follows the same core design of the inaugural model from 2021, except for the fact that it now appears entirely in black and yellow and features a lightweight titanium case with a black Carbonium bezel.
The 44mm case of the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black measures 16mm thick and is crafted from sandblasted and satin-finished titanium, which is then given a jet black DLC finish. The choice of titanium for the new model promises a significantly lighter construction compared to the original Diver X Skeleton watch from 2021, which used a blue PVD-coated stainless steel case. Sitting on top of the case is a domed sapphire crystal surrounded by a concave unidirectional rotating timing bezel that is fitted with a black Carbonium insert. Originally developed for the aerospace industry and used in the production of the wings and fuselage of certain contemporary aircraft, Carbonium is an extremely lightweight and durable type of carbon-fiber composite, which has a 40% lower environmental impact than other types of carbon-based material. A large sapphire window occupies the majority of the Diver X Skeleton Black’s screw-on titanium caseback, which helps provide it with a dive-ready 200 meters of water resistance.
Just like the original Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black watch, the “dial” of the new Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black is essentially a large “X” with virtually everything else carved away to reveal its highly skeletonized movement. The dial itself features a black PVD finish with bright yellow accents, and it includes a black chapter ring that has the hour markers for the watch attached along the outer edges, giving them the appearance that they are floating above the rest of the dial and the movement’s skeletonized surfaces. Just as you would expect from any model that claims to be a dive watch, the hands and hour markers on the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black are finished with Super-LumiNova for improved visibility in dark conditions, and black Carbonium is used again for the cover the of the mainspring barrel, which is fully visible through the window in the dial’s surface at 12 o’clock.
Powering the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black is the brand’s in-house UN-372 automatic movement, which is a modified version of the UN-371 that has been updated to feature an X-shaped oscillating weight to echo the design found on the dial. Consisting of 171 components, the UN-372 runs at a frequency of 21,600vph, and it features an escape wheel, anchor, and balance spring that are all crafted from Silicium, along with offering users an ample 96-hour power reserve. The Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black comes with both a yellow rubber strap and a black fabric R-strap that is constructed from upcycled polyamide from fishing nets that have been removed from the ocean.
The Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black represents the continuation of the brand’s skeletonized dive watch that first debuted last year. While its core design will be familiar to fans of the original blue and orange model, its black and yellow color profile combined with its lightweight titanium construction results in a watch that both looks and feels significantly different from the previous limited edition version that was unveiled last year.

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Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition

There are plenty of watches tied to auto racing, with big brands acting as sponsors to big racing teams and making splashes with special editions. Chopard has taken a drastically different tack from some of its high-profile counterparts in the racing watch space. For some time now, the brand has focused its racing partnerships on two historic races: the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique and the Mille Miglia, the latter of which acts as the name for the brand’s line of sports watches. The Mille Miglia is a legendary 1,000-mile Italian road race (fine, it’s technically 1,005 miles), originally run from 1927 to 1957 as a true road race, and since 1977 as a celebration of classic cars taken at a slightly more leisurely pace. The race runs a round trip from Brescia to Rome and back, and is limited to models that actually entered one of the original races held from 1927 to 1957 — meaning it’s chock full of beautiful vintage automobiles. For 2022, in celebration of the 40th running of the modern Mille Miglia, the brand has released a pair of limited-edition Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition watches, offered in stainless steel or two-tone stainless steel and ethical 18k rose gold.
Like prior years’ editions, the Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition watches feature a 44mm case with a well-proportioned 13.79mm thickness. While it won’t wear small, it’s a thinner profile than most automatic chronographs, which means it might be a surprise on the wrist. The case’s design is straightforward, which allows the dial to do the talking. On both the stainless steel and the two-tone model, the case is brushed throughout, save for the crown, pushers, and bezel (which are all rendered in ethical 18k rose gold on the two-tone model). The screw-down crown, nestled neatly in the guards, features a steering wheel motif, while the piston pushers have a crisscross knurling. The crown looks designed to be easily gripped and helps to ensure 100m of water resistance. The bezel features a single groove around its side and a decidedly slim ceramic insert in blue with white demarcations inspired by midcentury Italian road signs. The slender bezel is sure to make known the 44mm diameter, though the short, wide lugs may offer some relief. On the reverse, the screw-down caseback features a polished Mille Miglia motif on a frosted background, surrounded by text including the course’s route, “Brescia > Roma > Brescia,” and limited-edition numbering.
Beneath the domed sapphire crystal, Chopard has updated the dial from last year’s Race Edition. The dial is driven by legibility, evidenced by the large hands and indices, along with the contrasting finishes. Surrounding the circular-brushed, silver-gray dial is a sloped chapter ring with five-minute numbering and hashes at each minute plus quarter-minute markings, sure to aid in to-the-second timing. The applied hour markers feature blue CVD-treated markers filled with Super-LumiNova; their design and color are mirrored by the large minute and hour hands. The dial features three subdials as dictated by the 7750 movement: a 30-minute counter at 12, a 12-hour counter at 6, and a running seconds at 9. The two chronograph counters feature partial radial grooving with a red-tipped hand matching the central chronograph hand in a nod to Mille Miglia Red (which, by the way, is a color used by General Motors on the Corvette). The running seconds contrasts those with a solid blued hand and a fully grooved surface. The dial is rounded out by a magnified 3 o’clock date (with the cyclops on the sapphire’s underside) and the Mille Miglia logo.
The Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition is powered by a Swiss automatic chronograph movement. It’s not specified by the brand which automatic chronograph caliber this is but given the specs and dial layout, along with the brand’s use of ETA calibers in other models, the good money is on it being an ETA 7750. As specified by Chopard, the movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours and runs at 28,800 bph for a smooth sweep. Chopard has gone the extra step to have the movement chronometer-certified by COSC. While a chronograph is the obvious choice for any racing watch, the modern Mille Miglia is run as a regularity race, where the object is to complete each segment in a specific time at a specific average speed. Although the race officials use GPS, pressure pads, and timekeeping staff to track progress, it won’t hurt teams to have a chronometer-certified chronograph along for the ride to keep their own time. Completing the package, this year’s Race Edition is fitted with a racing strap with a brown leather topside and blue rubber backing with a tread pattern taken from 1960s Dunlop racing tires.
While Chopard may be receiving more acclaim these days for its beautiful Alpine Eagle collection, sleeping on the Mille Miglia is a rookie mistake. Chopard’s interest in motorsports is as deep as it is sincere: as in years past, Chopard Co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele will take part in the race in his family’s 1955 Mercedes Benz 300 SL, this year with his daughter Caroline-Marie at his side. The Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition is a racing watch from a brand that loves racing, as well as a classic chronograph with an approachable design that commemorates an epic Italian tradition. While 1,000 pieces of the stainless steel Race Edition will be produced, just 250 of the two-tone steel and ethical 18K rose gold model will be made.

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Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Air Command

The Blancpain Air Command was originally produced by Blancpain in the 1950s, and was supposedly intended for use by the US Air Force, the US Navy having already adopted the 50 Fathoms diver’s watch. The Air Command was a flyback chronograph, constructed somewhat along the lines of the Type 20 spec, and supposedly 12 watches were made and offered to USAF pilots through Blancpain’s US distributor, Allen Tornek. It’s now an extremely rare grail watch for vintage Blancpain collectors – they’ve appeared at auction very rarely. One is coming up at Phillips Hong Kong later this month, with an estimate of $50-100,000; and prior to that, another one (not the same watch) hammered in 2016, also at Phillips (in the 88 Epic Stainless Steel Chronograph auction) for CHF 100,000. 
The lot notes for both watches are pretty much the same in the essentials. The catalogue essay for the 2016 auction reads, ” … scholars have asserted that it was never serially manufactured or commercialized,” and then continues, “Like many other Swiss manufacturers, Blancpain was hit by the quartz crisis and … had to sell many of its assets, including some unfinished watches. With only a handful of specimens of this mythical model known to have survived, it is hard to determine what the exact specifications of the Air Command are.”
It then goes on to say, “However, as some of the Air commands have Blancpain-signed movements, it is possible that examples like the one presented here have only been assembled and fitted with a Valjoux 222 after the sell-off of the cases, dials, bezels and pushers and hands.” While the origins of the original Air Command seem to be destined to remain a mystery (albeit if we had records from the era, many passionate collectors would doubtless be deprived of the pleasure of arguing with each other) it was a handsome flyback chronograph, with classic mid-century instrument-timepiece good looks, and Blancpain has in terms of cosmetics, stayed very close to the original.  Indeed, from the dial side, at first glance it would be difficult to distinguish one from the other. The new-for-2019 model is very slightly larger than the original (42mm, vs. 42.50 for the new model). The Arabics are larger in the new model (as is the crown), the word “Flyback” is present in a very subdued fashion on the new guy, and of course, the difference in chronograph pusher positioning gives away the newer movement. The new model has no running seconds, with a 12 hour counter where there was a running seconds on the original; but taken as a whole, it’s a pretty faithful reproduction, right down to the elongated 3-minute markers in the 30 minute register. The new watch, however, has a very different movement from the flyback Valjoux caliber 222 in the vintage model. It uses the Blancpain caliber F388B – this is a column-wheel controlled, flyback automatic chronograph with vertical clutch, and which runs at 5 hertz, or 36,000 vph, giving the chronograph a 1/10 of a second resolution. 
If you’re going to do an homage to a vintage model this is a great way to do it. What a lot of us love about vintage watches is, yes, the nostalgia they can evoke, but of course functionally vintage watches are generally inferior to their modern counterparts, especially with the advances in materials technology, lubricants, gaskets and seals, and movement design which the last ten or fifteen years have brought us. The overwhelming tendency from a design standpoint, from modern brands, seems to be to use ecru Super-LumiNova (somewhat ironically, it turns out that “ecru” actually means “raw” or “unbleached”) in an effort to reproduce the look of yellowed radium or tritium paint, but as Jason Heaton mentioned in one of his stories for us, you don’t necessarily have to see this as an attempt to drape oneself in borrowed glory – at this point, and despite the fact that “fauxtina” is a term that seems to be here to stay, you can as easily look at it as just another color choice if you want. 

While the new  Blancpain Air Command really succeeds in general of capturing the charm of the original vintage model, the one other niggle I can see folks having with it is the propeller-shaped rotor. This is the sort of thing that tends to come across as either an annoying bit of kitsch, or a harmless bit of fun, depending on who you are (and maybe on which side of the bed you got out of this morning). Propeller-shaped winding rotors on aviation-themed watches are, like ecru lume, present in large enough numbers that I personally don’t object to them as much as I did even a few years ago (perhaps this is just a sign of age-related resignation, but I can’t manage to rouse much outrage about it). The rotor in the Air Command is reasonably well done, anyhow, and the rather sober brushed finish the red gold has been given, is pleasantly harmonious with the style in which the rest of the movement has been finished. A propeller on a watch whose design originated in the 1950s is a bit of an anachronism, as by the early 1950s most air forces were falling over themselves trying to switch as fast as possible to jet aircraft, but it’s still a handsome looking rotor.

All praise, incidentally, to Blancpain for omitting a date window – normally I don’t mind them but a date guichet would have been jarringly out of place on this watch (ditto for sticking to a two-register design). Overall, this is a very respectful as well as faithful homage to one of the most interesting, to say nothing of mysterious, vintage Blancpain watches, and the use of modern materials and a modern movement adds significantly to the appeal. These will be produced in slightly larger numbers than the very few surviving vintage  Blancpain Air Command watches – Blancpain is offering this watch as a 500 piece limited edition.