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Patek Philippe World Time 5230

Patek Philippe has been producing some of the world’s most coveted world time watches for nearly 80 years. This year, the brand is retiring all existing references in its so-called Heure Universelle collection and launching a new, upgraded model in their place: the Patek Philippe World Time 5230P, available in white-gold (Ref. 5230G-001) or rose-gold (Ref. 5230R-001):
Patek Philippe’s decision to introduce a new world-timer was motivated by, primarily, political and cultural changes worldwide that have necessitated updates to the original timepiece’s 24-hour city ring. Dubai, for example, has replaced Riyadh as the internationally recognized representative city of its time zone, and Moscow, which for many years had been located in the “UTC+4” zone, recently shifted to “UTC+3,” nearer to Western Europe, as its chosen time zone. The new Ref. 5230, available in both 18k white gold and 5N rose gold cases, now has a “globally valid” world-time city ring that accurately reflects the modern state of time zones across the world.
Patek Philippe also took the opportunity to do some subtle but significant reworking on the World Time watch’s case, dial, and hands. Patek Philippe World Time 5230P retains the iconic Patek Philippe Calatrava case (measuring 38.5 mm in diameter and 10.23 mm thick), but with new winglet-style lugs and a more narrow, smoothly polished bezel. The hands will be more noticeably different to a Patek aficionado: instead of the ringed hour hand and Dauphine minute hand on previous references, the watch has a pierced hour hand in the shape of the Southern Cross constellation and a lozenge-shaped minute hand, both with sharp center ridges between lapped, beveled flanks. The hands, and the applied baton hour markers, are crafted from the same gold as the case.

At the center of the dial is another decorative element new to Patek Philippe’s World Time watches. Whereas previous models were renowned for their polychrome cloisonné enamel world map motifs, Ref. 5230 features a black, hand-guillochéd, filigreed basket-weave pattern inspired by a historical pocketwatch on display at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. The dial pattern was created on a nearly 100-year-old, meticulously maintained rose engine at the Patek Philippe manufacture.
The movement, visible through a clear sapphire caseback, is Patek Philippe’s in-house Caliber 240 HU. It is only 3.88 mm thick, thanks in large part to its patented micro-rotor design, which enables the watchmakers to greatly reduce the size of the winding rotor — made of 22k gold and engraved with Patek’s Calatrava Cross emblem — and integrate it at the level of the bridges. The movement includes the patented Spiromax balance spring and amasses a power reserve of at least 48 hours. With a tolerance of -3 to +2 seconds per day, its rate accuracy exceeds all customary chronometer standards. The movement’s haute horlogerie finishes all meet the stringent standards of the brand’s in-house certification, the Patek Philippe Seal. The bridges are chamfered and decorated with Geneva strips, a motif that also appears on the microrotor. The mainplate is hand-decorated with perlage, and the golden brass wheels are countersunk and have chamfered spokes. The rhodiumed bridges have gold-filled movement engravings and the movement’s total 239 parts include 35 ruby jewels, 10 of which are on display from the back.

Both versions of the Patek Philippe World Time 5230P come on hand-stitched alligator leather straps (black for the white-gold watch, chocolate brown for the rose-gold) with case-matching Calatrava fold-over clasps.

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Richard Mille Debuts New RM 07-01 Intergalactic Watches

When it comes to the ultra-exclusive luxury watch brands within the industry, Richard Mille is definitely one of the most divisive. When describing Richard Mille to someone who isn’t a watch enthusiast, the analogy I often make is that the brand is the F1 car equivalent of a luxury watch. A well-constructed luxury sedan will give you a much greater sense of traditional refinement and will provide infinitely more creature comforts, but the state-of-the-art technology and advanced materials of the F1 car ultimately make it exponentially more expensive than something you pick up from your local luxury import dealer. With that in mind, the new Richard Mille RM 07-01 Intergalactic watches combine the brand’s signature approach of high-tech materials and futuristic designs with a unique style of gem setting that places an emphasis on the prongs of the settings themselves to emulate the glittering stars set among the vast darkness of the galaxy.
All four of the new Richard Mille RM 07-01 Intergalactic watches feature cases that follow the brand’s signature tonneau shape, and they are crafted from Carbon TPT with 5N red gold accents. The cases themselves measure 31.4mm in diameter by 11.85mm thick, with an overall lug-to-lug distance of 45.66mm, making them some of the most compact models that Richard Mille currently offers. Carbon TPT is a carbon fiber composite material that consists of multiple layers of parallel filaments that are created by dividing carbon fibers. From there, the fibers are impregnated with a composite matrix and woven at a 45 degree angle between layers, before being combined with heat and pressure to create a solid block of material, which can then get processed by a CNC machine and milled into the various case components. Sapphire crystals protect both the front and back side of the three-part case and the various components are all held together by grade 5 titanium screws that run through the trio of case components and secure them together using Nitrile O-ring seals to help provide users with 50 meters of water resistance.
Carbon TPT components can be found on a number of different Richard Mille models, but what sets the new RM 07-01 Intergalactic watches apart from their siblings is the unique style of gem-setting that adorns their external cases. Set into the Carbon TPT components are diamonds that are secured by 5N red gold prongs that are scattered throughout their surfaces. Setting diamonds into Carbon TPT comes with a number of unusual challenges due to the nature of the material itself. Unlike setting diamonds into gold, where the metal can be shaped into prongs to secure the diamonds, the hard rigid structure of Carbon TPT means that a space for the diamonds must first be machined using diamond-bit milling tools, and then the diamonds themselves must be secured into the case by gold prongs that are inserted by hand into the into the various settings that have been drilled into the surface of the case. It’s also worth noting that many of the 5N red gold prongs that are set into the case of the RM 07-01 Intergalactic don’t actually secure a diamond, but rather are there for aesthetic purposes to help create the models’ star-packed galaxy aesthetic.
The new Richard Mille RM 07-01 Intergalactic watches consists of a quartet of models with each one offering a slightly different take on the same core aesthetic concept. Named the Bright Night, Dark Night, Misty Night, and Starry Night, each of the different versions of the RM 07-01 offers a different ratio of diamonds to prongs set into their case, and while some models place an emphasis on the diamonds, others offer designs where the prongs themselves are largely the focus for a much less glitzy take on the same core aesthetic concept. Beyond the settings, other small differences exist throughout the four models. For example, the Bright Night version features its middle caseband in red gold rather than Carbon TPT like the rest of the range, while the Misty Night version features four red gold pillars on the sides of its case in the locations where the connecting screws pass through the various components. Additionally, while three of the RM 07-01 watches are completed by black rubber straps with red gold deployant buckles, the Starry Night model receives a full-link bracelet made from Carbon TPT.
Similar differences exist when it comes to the dials fitted to the four models. While all of them have a similar overall design and structure, the way that the diamonds and prongs are set into each one is different, as they are intended to correspond with the setting approach of the outer case. Each dial consists of a central section made from Carbon TPT that echoes the shape of the tonneau case and is adorned with diamonds and red gold prongs. Surrounding this central section is a skeletonized area that exposes the inner workings of the movement and separates the central part of the dial from the minute track flange that surrounds the periphery of the display. The outer flange is constructed from carbon fiber and it has hour markers filled with luminous material for added legibility. Sitting at the center of the dial are a pair of red gold hands that indicate the hours and minutes, and since the Richard Mille RM 07-01 does not have a seconds hand at all, the only indication that the watch is running will be the balance wheel moving back and forth, which is partially visible through the skeletonized section at the bottom of the dial.
Despite their differences, all four of the Richard Mille RM 07-01 Intergalactic watches are powered by the brand’s Caliber CRMA2 automatic movement. Running at a frequency of 28,800vph (4Hz) and offering users a power reserve of approximately 50 hours, the Caliber CRMA2 offers a highly skeletonized structure consisting of a mainplate and bridges that are crafted from grade 5 titanium and given an electroplasma treatment to give them a dark black finish. Along with featuring a free-sprung balance and a fast moving mainspring barrel for optimum performance, the Richard Mille Caliber CRMA2 also includes a bidirectional self-winding system with a variable-geometry rotor. Largely constructed from 5N red gold with a weight segment in heavy metal, the oscillating weight’s variable-geometry design allows the rotor to be set according to the owner’s activity level by adjusting the two weights that are fixed in place by spline screws. The black appearance of the skeletonized plates and bridges paired with the large red gold rotor offer an overall aesthetic that is very much in-line with the rest of the watch, creating an extremely cohesive overall appearance when looking at both the back and front slides of the RM 07-01 Intergalactic models.

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Breitling Super Chronomat Automatic 38

Breitling is presenting two new Breitling Super Chronomat with a smaller 38 mm diameter and diamond-set bezel. The highlight, however, is the Breitling Super Chronomat Automatic 38 Origins – a “traceable” watch. The house uses gold and laboratory-grown diamonds whose entire supply chain is transparent.
Breitling is presenting two versions: one in a steel case with an ice-blue dial and one in a two-tone look with a mint-green dial. The case diameter for each is 38 mm with a height of 11.88 mm. Meanwhile, the full polish ensures an elegant appearance. On these models, the ‘onion’ crown is made of ceramic. This also applies to the rider tabs on the bezel, which is set with laboratory diamonds. The colours mirror the dial. On the side of the steel or gold bezel, there are also some screws that lend the watch a tool watch feel. Perhaps these improve the grip, given that the bezel can be rotated unidirectionally so that a time can be marked. In addition, a solid caseback offers space for engraving. The water resistance is 100 metres.
The dials in ice blue and mint green have a sunburst finish and are framed by a ring bearing a minute track. The watchmakers also apply indices in steel or gold. Like the three hands, they are luminescent. Last but not least, the horology house places its logo at 12 o’clock, which is made of either steel or gold. At 6 o’clock is the date window, which presents itself with black numerals on a white background.
As befits a Chronomat, these watches also come on the typical Rouleaux bracelet with a double-folding clasp. The mint-green version sports gold centre links. Alternatively, an alligator leather strap or a rubber strap in rouleaux look with a folding clasp is available. The colours match the dial.
The Breitling Super Chronomat Automatic 38 Origins is the result of Breitling’s efforts to create more sustainable products. It uses transparently sourced gold and laboratory-grown diamonds that are climate-neutral. The owner can check the proof of origin via an NFT and the public online source map.
The watch has a case made of 18-carat red gold, which is combined with a diamond-set bezel. The crown and the tabs here are made of white ceramic. The silver dial features applied indices and hands in gold. A matching polished “B” logo and a date window at 6 o’clock are also featured here. This watch comes with a choice of a white rouleaux-look rubber strap or an alligator leather strap.
The gold used comes from a single mine in Colombia that is certified by the Swiss Better Gold Association. This is to protect the environment and the living conditions of the local community. In addition, Breitling contributes to development projects in the region. The rest of the supply chain up to the watchmakers is also transparent, which enables optimal control of standards. By 2025, the house aims to only use gold traceable to certified mines.
The diamonds come from a lab and are of the highest quality. They are indistinguishable from natural diamonds, undergoing the same tests. Breitling uses crystals certified by the Scientific Certification Systems that meet ethical and ecological criteria. Again, Breitling is doing its part to support the communities involved in diamond production. Breitling aims to use only laboratory-grown diamonds by 2024.
Inside the watches is the Breitling Calibre 17, which is based on the ETA 2824-2. It measures 4.6 mm in height and operates at a frequency of 4 hertz. The movement offers automatic winding and has a maximum power autonomy of a meagre 38 hours. However, the mechanism boasts the COSC certificate, which also guarantees corresponding accuracy.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 41

The hottest luxury watch on the planet is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

Ah, but which Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar? Which one is the most interesting and collectible of all the contemporary, current-production models? My nominee is the ceramic-cased Royal Oak QP.

It features everything that makes a “conventional” (if there is such a thing) Royal Oak so damn good – namely the grande tapisserie dial, the thin profile, the integrated bracelet that’s a work of art unto itself, and of course, the octagonal bezel – but the ceramic-cased RO QP pushes it all to the max. The use of state-of-the-art colored ceramic for the case and bracelet means the entire package is bolder, more recognizable, and more scratch-proof than ever before.
At the same time, inside, the ultra-thin caliber 5134 is able to balance the seemingly disparate realm of the highly technical and the supremely slim, in superlative fashion. Ben was absolutely right when, in 2017, he introduced the inaugural ceramic Royal Oak QP by saying, “I’m calling it right here and right now, this is the hottest watch of SIHH 2017.” Five years later, during the Royal Oak’s ongoing 50th anniversary, the watch is still causing temperatures to rise.
That’s because, earlier today, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar quietly unveiled another scorcher. Following 2017’s original blacked-out ceramic RO QP and the white-ceramic sequel that came two years later, AP has released a new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (ref. 26579CS.OO.1225CS.01) via its official brand website – and this one comes in blue (!) ceramic for the very first time. Is anyone else sweating or is it just me?

The new, blue Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is mostly identical to its predecessors, sharing an identical ultra-thin self-winding movement (caliber 5134) and case profile (41mm × 9.5mm), with the only major updates coming in the form of the high-tech blue ceramic case and the matching blue color of the grande tapisserie dial. But given how coveted the black and white ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars have become, this one still rates as a big deal.
Details on the new release are currently fairly scarce (in this case, what you see is what we see), but considering the high-profile nature of many of the known owners of previous ceramic RO QPS, it’s safe to say it’s a watch that will land on the wrists of many of AP’s best clients. We’ve previously spotted Draymond Green rocking his white-ceramic example, and everyone from UK rapper Stormzy, French actor Omar Sy, American comedian Kevin Hart, and Norwegian DJ Kygo have been seen with a touch of ceramic on their wrist.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding 37

It’s raining bling! Audemars Piguet CEO François-Henri Bennahmias isn’t holding back before his impending departure from the brand in 2023. Instead, true to his persona, he’s upping the ante for the Q4 celebrations of the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary with a flashy lineup of 20 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Rainbow pieces (10 in 41 mm and 10 in 37 mm) fully set—from the dial to the bezel to the case to the bracelet—in emeralds, rubies, tourmalines, tanzanites, tsavorites, chrysoberyls and spessartites. Unlike other “rainbow” watches, these are arranged in monochrome settings such as a fully yellow chrysoberyl-set version to one dressed in solid rubies.
Each Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Rainbow 41 mm watch is outfitted in 861 stones (between 30 and 47 carats) and each 37 mm model is accented with 790 stones (between 21 to 37 carats)—an incredible feat when you consider how hard it is to find that many stones of matching colour, clarity, quality and size. In fact, the process was such a challenge it took an entire year. The gem-setting was orchestrated by Pierre Salanitro, a longtime AP collaborator who is generally regarded as the master of his particular profession in Switzerland. Adding to the difficulty in setting the variations of stones is that each watch had to be adjusted according to the typology, hardness and other specifics according to the makeup of each type of stone. The baguette stones were also cut in 179 different sizes for the 41 mm version and 153 different sizes for the 37 mm iteration before being hand-polished. To make sure the stones covered as much surface as possible, Audemars Piguet and Salanitro arranged them in an invisible setting—a jewelry technique in which as little metal as possible is revealed around the gems to give the appearance that they are floating—on the dial and bracelet links. To achieve this, tiny grooves were cut into the 18-karat white gold cases with the stones attached inside via hidden rails mounted in the metal. This kind of setting is notoriously difficult and only 10 out of 80 artisans at Salanitro’s studio are able to complete the task. They worked for a month and a half on the setting alone for each set.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Rainbow timepieces contain the calibre 4309 for the 41 mm version—the most recent self-winding hours, minutes and seconds movement in this diameter—and the Caliber 5909 for the 37 mm model. The 5909 is based on the Caliber 5900, which first appeared this year in other Royal Oaks of the same case size. Like other 50th anniversary editions, these will also come with a 22-carat pink gold oscillating rotor that spells out “50 years.” The Audemars Piguet logo and “Swiss Made” label have been cautiously printed on the sapphire crystal so as not to interfere with the gems.

Needless to say, however, these watches are anything but discreet. You won’t need to see a logo to know that these are AP Royal Oaks from a distance and all of the added high-end adornment ensures they can be spotted quite easily from across a room. Consider hiring a bodyguard with your purchase.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding 41

Audemars Piguet revealed its first 41 mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding Chronograph entirely crafted in black ceramic with contrasting pink gold accents appearing on the dial. Each ceramic component is pre-polished and pre-satin-brushed prior to being finished by hand, culminating in polished chamfers juxtaposed with Audemars Piguet’s trademark satin-brushed and polished surfaces.

The black dial features a Grande Tapisserie pattern and matching counters with fine pink-gold-toned threads. Additional pink gold highlights, including applied hour-markers, Royal Oak hands and the Audemars Piguet signature, deliver eye-catching contrast.

To celebrate the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, this new 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph housed in black ceramic features the collection’s new evolutionary dial design. The artisans have harmonized the size of the luminescent facetted hour-markers and the hands while preserving their aesthetics. The logo has been reworked. A gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding signature endowed with a unique topography now replaces the applied AP monogram and the printed “AUDEMARS PIGUET” at 12 o’clock. The embossed signature decorating the new Royal Oak “anniversary” models is made of thin layers of 24-carat gold. Each letter is connected with links approximately the size of a hair and placed on the dial by hand with tiny legs almost invisible to the naked eye.

By increasing the size of the small seconds display, all three counters feature the same diameter, augmenting readability. The central sweep seconds hand features a new style of counterweight encompassing a new trapezoidal openworked profile.

The pins connecting the links to the studs of the black ceramic bracelet are no longer visible on the sides, but fitted directly into the studs.

This new version of the 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph is fitted with a dedicated anniversary openworked oscillating weight in blackened 22-carat gold, which features the “50-years” logo and the engraved Audemars Piguet signature. The oscillating weight has been darkened in order to match the color of the case.

At the heart of each reference is the Manufacture’s latest generation chronograph movement, the selfwinding Calibre 4401. It is fully integrated and features a column wheel and a flyback function. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding flyback function allows the wearer to stop, reset and start the chronograph in one simple action. The column wheel works in collaboration with a vertical clutch system. When starting or stopping the chronograph, the hands respond accordingly without any jumping. The push-pieces feel smooth when pressed. A patented zero resetting mechanism ensures that each one of the counter hands instantaneously resets to zero.

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TAG Heuer Carrera Automatic 29 Stainless Steel

I adore complicated watches which feature a chronograph, a minute repeater or tourbillon. However, on some occasions, there is a strong argument for simplicity. Sometimes a pure, clean, uncluttered appearance, with ease of interpretation, makes an appealing rationale for purchase.

Simplicity, in terms of watchmaking, is a contradiction in terms. Whilst a watch may seem absent of numerous functions, to create a stylish watch devoid of registers, guilloché or tourbillon cage is actually quite difficult. The designer needs to impart eye-appeal whilst not overburdening the dial with the extraneous. Indeed, the idiom “the devil is in the detail” is very apt when designing a watch with a limited array of functions.

Earlier this year at Baselworld 2014, TAG Heuer revealed some awe-inspiring novelties featuring some incredible avant-garde aesthetics and know-how, including the mind-blowing Monaco V4 with its ingenious belt-driven movement. However, a model which caught me on my blind-side and seduced my soul with its dapper, but restrained, appearance was theTAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Automatic.

TAG Heuer offer the Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Automatic – Steel 39mm with a choice of steel bracelet or alligator leather strap. Dial variants include black, silver and anthracite. I have not seen all the available options, but confess to liking the black dial version on a leather strap (ref WAR211A.FC6180). It has a pre-eminent legibility and warmth, courtesy of the black hued strap. It is this model which provides the focal point of this in-depth watch review.
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Automatic – Steel 39mm is a handsome timepiece with a notable air of sophistication.

The seemingly simple dial is the result of many hours of toil spent in the TAG Heuer design studio, honing each element to a peerless outcome. The resultant landscape of the dial is beautiful, with delightful details which reinforce the rationale for purchase.

Versatility is another key strength of the Tag HEUER Calibre 5 Automatic – Steel 39mm. It is a suitable accessory to complement casual or formal attire. Indeed, I would suggest it would admirably fulfil the role of dress watch at a black tie event, such is the cleanliness of the dial.

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Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 Rose Gold

The Patek Philippe Nautilus shot to fame for its iconic case design and was easily one of the most expensive regular production steel watches of its time. So iconic is the poster watch combination of steel and blue dial that the Patek Philippe Nautilus remains one of the most sought after collections after more than 30 years in production. While the 5711 is the grail for many, the watch’s fame has also brought with it a fair share of controversy.
We had previously talked about full gold watches in our article on Audemar Piguet’s Royal Oak collection. Never mind the touchè proletariat rant, or the usual discourse against the use of precious metals on sports themed watches. These arguments are convenient and complacent at best. Full gold watches are statement pieces. More often than not an indicator of wealth at the expense of tastefulness. Similar to Rolex’s Everose gold watches, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1R-001 has a similar color scheme, a warm rose gold case with a dark hue brown dial.
The 40 mm watch is adequately sized for the Nautilus. Steeped with heritage, the Nautilus design retains its slim case and unique case construction. The bezel piece is secured to the middle case portion via the protruding portions at 3 and 6 o’clock. The modern case also possesses a screw down crown and a fold over clasp. To add to its charm, the watch uses the famed 324 SC calibre, a tested and proven calibre well-known for its thinness (3.3 mm).
The watch has rich heritage and remains a dream watch for many. However, while we do not dislike the full gold models, we prefer the notion of subtle luxury rather than an overt one. In our opinion, the best current production Nautilus is still the base Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 Rose Gold 5711/1A-010 (retails for S$ 32,700). Although, if precious metals are your fancy, the Nautilus in platinum is our recommendation. It is the ultimate in understatement, looking almost like the steel version. But is certainly extremely rare. The 5711/1P is not even listed in the Patek Philippe catalog. It is also the heaviest and certainly the most expensive within the range, but also the most collectible.

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Hublot BIG BANG E FIFA WORLD CUP QATAR 2022™

Hublot was founded in 1980, which makes it, at the age of 40, approximately 100 years younger than its long-established counterparts. Its newbie status, far from being a drawback, has advantages. Hublot stands ripe for adventure, uniquely unbound by traditions that might constrain it to an identity forged in a bygone era. It is free to explore new ideas, designs, materials and associations. One month it’s sponsoring a polo match in aristocratic, old-money Gstaad, and the next, it’s joining the crush in the stands at the FIFA World Cup. The latter is coming up next month in Qatar and Hublot isn’t missing out on the moment. As a sponsor of the event, the company is introducing the Hublot Big Bang e FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022 smartwatch.
“Being a young brand allows us to be more diverse and maybe not as focused on one specific partnership,” Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe tells Robb Report. “The idea is to create a world of Hublot, in which we meet with different customers, some of whom are interested in soccer, some in other sports, or who like tattoos.” (Hublot has worked on watch collaborations with tattoo artist Maxime Büchi). “When it comes to watches, we have the liberty to create incredible designs that maybe a traditional brand would not do it because it’s too particular,” he adds. “If you look at the tattoo watch, Sang Bleu, it’s incredible. Nobody would make a watch like this, but Hublot we can do it because our concept of mastering the art of fusion allows us to be disruptive.”

Hublot’s untraditional approach to watchmaking has seen it trailblaze certain trends in the industry. It was one of the first brands to popularise rubber straps in the 1990s. And few other brands use colour to the same extent as Hublot, which has developed its own proprietary selection of coloured ceramics and sapphires as case materials. It is also one of the early adopters of fully sapphire crystal cases.
Design-wise, it has collaborated with artists, architects and athletes to push the boundaries, making its aesthetic identity difficult to define in any way other than to describe it as unconventional. At the same time, its engineering and finishing techniques adhere to the principles of traditional high watchmaking.

But the brand’s attention to detail combined with its often loud and forward-thinking approach is an ethos that extends to its smartwatches. The Hublot Big Bang e FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022 is a Gen 3 connected watch with a new timeline function dedicated to soccer. Before the tournament starts, the Big Bang e FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022 will be in countdown mode, keeping track of the days until the opening match on November 20 between Qatar and Ecuador. Then, with 15 minutes to go before each match, the watch will deliver team line-ups and player profiles. As each game kicks off, the watch will automatically enter “match mode” and activate a “timeline” feature created exclusively for this watch to track the game highlights.

A scale on the outer edge of the dial is split into five sections, indicating the first and second halves, the additional time allowed in each half and half-time. If a goal is scored, the watch shows a match event animation mentioning the player’s name, and a soccer symbol will appear at the appropriate minute mark on the scale. The same thing happens if there is a yellow card, a red card or a penalty. If a match goes beyond normal time, the watch display will automatically switch into extra time mode, and then into shootout mode in the event a match goes to penalties. Each penalty is recorded to indicate whether or not the attempt was successful. A final “match period animation” shows when the game is over, and the final score. The wearer can replay these events at any point during a game by scrolling around the dial using the watch’s crown.
But what about after the World Cup is over? It comes with all of the standard functions of a smartwatch including GPS and a heart-rate monitor, and it comes with a suite of preloaded apps to stay connected to track activities, health and more. And unlike smaller alternatives, the Big Bang e FIFA is oversized at 44 mm, so you can better see the screen, which may be a welcome design feature for some.

The case is made of micro-blasted and polished black ceramic and black titanium. The rubber strap comes in burgundy highlighted back black underneath—a colour inspired by the flag colours of the State of Qatar. But fans can also choose dial and strap designs in the colors of each of the 32 participating countries.

The 2022 FIFA World Cup will be held from late November to mid-December, making it the first tournament not to be held in May, June or July and to take place in the northern autumn; it will be played in a reduced timeframe of around 29 days. Hublot has been a sponsor since 2010 and will time all 64 games in this year’s FIFA World Cup, including the final in the Lusail Stadium in Doha on 18 December. The Hublot Big Bang e FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022 is limited to 1,000 pieces and priced at US$270. Considering the cost of traveling to Qatar for the World Cup, if you’re already going you might as well invest a little further and come equipped with this game-day accessory.

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5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph

Look, I get it, a new Nautilus is a big deal and earlier this week Patek Philippe announced several new examples into the lineup and people are champing at the bit to share their thoughts on the new 5811 and its siblings. As for me, I’m simply thrilled to get to write about what I see as two of the best watches in the recent announcement, the grandly complicated 5204G and the wildly cool 5935G. You can have my spot in the Nautilus line because, if we’re talking about my own joyfully hypothetical buying power, I’m looking for something a bit more interesting. Interesting…and complicated, as this article will focus on two new references from Patek Philippe, the 5204G Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar and the 5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph. Do you remember that “Justification For Higher Education” poster with the big house and the supercars? You could just use a photo of either of these two watches if cars aren’t your thing. Cars are my thing, among many things. Maybe I should have been a doctor, after all.
Starting with the 5204G-001, it is essentially a white gold version of the existing 5204R, which was originally launched 10 years ago, in 2012, but was recently updated with a grey dial in 2021. This new version matches its white precious metal case with an olive green sunburst dial that continues the legacy of QP chronographs like the 2499 and the 5270 by offering the combination and then taking things a step further by featuring a split-seconds function for the chronograph (which is controlled via the button set into the crown). All of that grand complication is powered by the manually-wound CHR 29-535 PS Q and it is tucked inside a case that is only 40mm wide and 14.3mm thick. When you blend the sizing with the less formal dial coloring, the white gold, and the continued inclusion of luminous hands and markers, you get a very soft-spoken, almost unassuming, execution of what is a very (VERY) hardcore piece of watchmaking.

As soon as I started to look over the images of the new 5204G, I found that its general vibe reminded me of another very Grand Complication from Patek, the 5004. Retired in 2011, while the 5004 was made in several different versions over its 15-year life cycle, Patek commemorated the end of production for these Split-Second QP Chronographs by creating fifty examples in steel with gorgeous creamy dials and black dial furniture (I love when Patek does black markers and hands). As the 5204 came into being a year after the 5004 was retired, maybe the new 5204G is one step closer to seeing some version made in steel. While this 5204G is not specifically limited, it’s worth noting that Patek was only producing around twelve 5004s a year back in 2011. Like its rose gold sibling, 5204G has the sort of price that you write on a piece of paper and slide across a table. I suppose the digital equivalence would be for me to omit the price from this sentence and tell you that I’ve included it at the bottom of the article.
If only I were a rich guy – because holy moly – do I like the 5935A. As an extension of my fascination with travel watches, I love the romance of a world timer, especially those of a Cottier-derived nature (I wrote a bit about it here, and more about it in Watches: A Guide by Hodinkee). I know, I know. It’s only full-hour time zones but the idea of the whole world on your wrist has a very old-world charm to it and the new 5935 only amplifies that charm by mixing a steel case with a stunning dial and a special movement. Let’s start with the movement, as it’s the first time that the CH 28-520 HU has been used in a steel watch. You might remember previous and precious outings for this caliber by way of the blue- or green-accented 5930G, and the CH 28-520 HU is notable for its combination of both a traditional world timer (showing instantaneous time and an indication of day/night in 24 time zones) along with a 30-minute flyback chronograph.

For the 5935A, the combination is so well done, especially in terms of how lightly the chronograph treads on an already complicated dial. The sizing is good, too, with the 5935A measuring 41mm wide and 12.75mm thick while housing an automatic movement with two rather useful complications. Then we get to the dial, which is described by Patek Philippe as rose gilt with a carbon motif and charcoal grey accents. Did I mention that I love when Patek Philippe uses black dial furniture? I did, but feel free to add charcoal to that list – the first-gen 5270, the final 5004, Briggs Cunningham’s frankly jaw-dropping 1526. The mix of the rosey dial, the dark and legible markings, and that carbon-effect center finishing, I just love it.

Interestingly, Patek says that the carbon motif is in reference to the ref. 6007 LE from 2020, but let’s not forget 2017’s 5208T-010 for Only Watch (and yes, I had to google that reference), or the unique 5004T (thank you for that one, Ben). With the 5935A carrying a price tag of $63,870, what can I say? A fella can dream, and hope that my meager GME holdings shoot for one of Jupiter’s moons. I’m afraid our own moon simply won’t cut it anymore.