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Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40

Breitling’s Chronomat was relaunched in 2020 and quickly became one of the most integral parts of the Breitling brand. From the brand’s large 44mm chronograph offerings down to the small 32mm ladies’ models, Breitling has built up a solid lineup of Chronomats to choose from. But the collection has always jumped from 42mm to 36mm with nothing in between. That is, until today. The new Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 fills a gap in the collection in more ways than one. First, it brings a more reasonable size with a new 40mm diameter, 11.77mm thick, 47.4mm lug-to-lug stainless steel watch. You get all the standard Chronomat styling, including the classic “onion” crown and rouleaux bracelet, along with 200m water resistance worthy of a sports watch you can take from the air to the sea with ease. The second new addition is the inclusion of Breitling’s Caliber 32 GMT movement, a “caller” with an independently set GMT hand that was previously built off the workhorse ETA 2893-2 movement, plus added refinements and finishing. Previously, the Chronomat lineup featured only three-hand watches and giant chronographs, but no longer. The Caliber 32 movement provides approximately 42 hours of power reserve to fuel the GMT, hours, minutes, seconds, and date functions on the watch. Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 comes in five color options: black, blue, green, white, and anthracite. Each of these dials features a “tone-on-tone” 24-hour scale, matching the dial to the rehaut instead of going for a multi-color bezel. Breitling believes this increases legibility, letting the red GMT stand out.

I’ve had mixed feelings in the past about Breitling’s Chronomats. While apparently sales hits for the brand, the chronographs always wore too large to me. The vintage Chronomats, a kind of cult classic, often feel a bit “janky” for lack of a better term, from the bracelet to the bezels. All that made me unable to separate the vintage and very anachronistic vibe of the watches – especially the rouleaux bracelet and crown – from the modernized direction Breitling was taking the collection. Here, we see that new direction in full force: elegance, comfort, and sportiness, with good build quality in a design language that is quintessentially Breitling. And to top it off, a competitive price point I expect we will see more of in the future.

Maybe I shouldn’t have been surprised – of course, there would be improvements over time and these modern bracelets would have better tolerances and less flex – but the first thing I noticed was how well the watch wore, from the comfortable bracelet to the slimmed-down and more wearable case. There’s a reason so many Rolex GMT-Master II owners have embraced jubilee bracelets over the “classic” oyster bracelet. In the same way, the shorter distance between links allows the bracelet to wrap well around your wrist.

I’m a bracelet geek but I’d imagine that the sunray-esque dials will be the stars of the show for most potential buyers. The iridescent sheen, especially the blue and green, is captivating (and, if you’re buying watches and hoping to photograph them, frustratingly reflective). The blue dial goes very deep blue, almost black in a darkened environment, and then pops to life with any splash of light. No matter the locale, the green is dramatic and eye-catching. The sleeper hit might be the anthracite grey dial, which blends in well with the case and picks up a bit of warmth and brown tones from the light in an environment.

The white and black dials didn’t get much mention (or photo time, apologies) because while solid options, the comparatively matte finish didn’t garner as much attention from me in my short time, hands-on.

The simplified placement of the 24-hour markers on the rehaut is a nice touch. For all the good a GMT does, I don’t find a big difference in my day-to-day life between catching the time at a glance and spending five seconds looking more closely for a second time zone. And not that the general population takes issue with wearing sport watches in more formal environments, but the lack of bulky bezel with any colors or numbers adds a certain level of elegance. There’s not a ton to say about the movement, based on the ETA 2893-2, which is pretty standard across the industry. I will say, the more I actively review GMTs and pay attention to specifications, the more it surprises me that there aren’t more “flyer” GMT movements on the market. With the introduction of the ETA caliber C07.661 and Miyota 9075, I’m hopeful we’ll see more brands switch away from the 2893-2 in future iterations. That said, this is pretty standard and should be reliable, albeit with a 42 hour power reserve that might be a point of contention for some buyers.

All of this feels like a very cognizant and measured decision from Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40, taking the opportunity to highlight a collection with one of the purest throughlines of modern Breitling DNA with a new option that is both eye-catching and even more wearable and versatile than before. While it might not unseat the most in-demand GMT offerings on the market, it does give another great option that can stand on its own merits and at a price (under $6,000) that is really very competitive for the finishing.

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Breitling Endurance Pro Premiers de Cordée

I wasn’t particularly kind to the new Breitling Endurance Pro in our New Watch Alert. Like all the watches in the NWA, I passed judgement sight unseen. But I am nothing if not a fair man. So I hightailed it down to a local dealer to spend some quality time with a Pro. (Thanks Ben!) My conclusion: it’s a really expensive quartz watch. But it’s also . . .Thanks to its thermo-compensated COSC-certified Caliber 82 SuperQuartz movement, the Breitling Endurance Pro will keep time to the tune of ±10 seconds-per-year. That puts it ahead of the pack, but behind the ±5 seconds-per-year $1350 Longines V.H.P. and $3800 Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Quartz. Close enough for rock and roll? Yes! Unless you’re looking for temporal bragging rights. For a $3k watch, I’m thinking that’s a thing. Fortunately, the Breitling has a few other tricks up its horological sleeve. Specifically, its weight. Or lack thereof.

The Breitling Endurance Pro is not for those who worry about the unbearable lightness of being – it weighs just 65 grams dripping wet.

The 65g carbon fiber Formex Leggera and 55 gram titanium OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra-Light are “proper” mechanical watches that are as light or lighter than the Endurance Pro. The OMEGA costs $48,600. The Formex clocks in at $1650. So there is that.

Credit the 44mm Endurance’s quartz movement and Breitlight case for the watch’s lack of heavy. Breitling’s carbon composite is 3.3 times lighter than titanium, 5.8 times lighter than stainless steel, non-magnetic, thermally stable, hypoallergenic and “highly resistant” to scratches, traction and corrosion.And it makes the watch feel like a plastic toy. The Endurance Pro’s orange strap, second hand, crown guard, pusher tips and interior bezel do nothing to counter that impression, and much to enhance it.

Running the chrono dispels at least some of the frivolity. Press the Endurance Pro’s pusher – the action is sharp and precise. The orange second hand slams through the seconds, the right hand subdial goes nuts, spinning once a second, and the top left subdial counts the minutes.The bottom subdial also counts the seconds. Blame the redundancy on the bright orange pulsometer chapter ring, included to position the Endurance Pro as “the ultimate athleisure watch.”

In other words, Breitling’s marketing mavens are targeting well-heeled exercise junkies who don’t measure their heart rate with a smartwatch. Both of them.C’mon man! We all know the Endurance Pro is a fashion statement. Thirty minute timer? Crayola colors? If that doesn’t identify the Pro as a tool watch for pulse-quickening S&M (standing and modelling), what about the bezel compass?

The Breitling Endurance Pro bi-directional bezel compass is beautifully rendered; it glides around the dial like a curling stone on fresh ice. That said, if you’re lost in the northern hemisphere in a non-tropical wilderness and need to head in a particular direction, any watch will do.

To use your Breitling Endurance Pro watch as an approximate compass outside of the tropics in the northern hemisphere, hold the watch horizontal and point the hour hand at the sun. Half way between that point and the twelve o’clock mark on your watch points to the south.

The Truth About Sundials! Anyway, the Breitling Endurance Pro’s dial is a dog’s breakfast.Some bright spark decreed that the 12, 3, 6 and 9 indices had to be REALLY BIG and decided “we don’t need no stinkin’ 12! Put the Breitling logo there.”

Then the subdial monsters took a big bite out of the 3 and 6 (rendering them semi-legible) and pretty much devoured the 6. The same creatures all but eliminated the 2 and 10. Only six numerals made it through the attack.

Just for fun, there’s “ENDURANCE” below the dial’s midpoint on the left, bang opposite “CHRONOMETER.” It’s no surprise the date window’s retreated to a relatively quiet corner between the 4 and 5.I love the Breitling Endurance Pro’s featherweight fighting weight, revel in its durability, worship its amazing accuracy and smile at its technicolor dreamcoat (also available in yellow, blue, red and black).

But the Pro’s premium price and busy AF dial are genuine deal killers. Sometimes first impressions last.

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Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 42 Stainless Steel Yellow

Breitling’s legendary sea watch is reinvented in the new Breitling Superocean 2022 watch collection as it debuts a pared-down aesthetic reminiscent of the original Superocean Slow Motion from the 1960’s and 70’s. The release offers an abundance of choice, with four case sizes (46mm, 44mm, 42mm and 36mm), three case metals and two strap options to choose from.

The history of the Breitling Superocean began in the 1950’s when the demand for high-performance dive watches was at an all time high. In 1957, the Swiss watch manufacturer launched two diving watches, a time-only piece and a chronograph, both named the Breitling Superocean. Their 200m water resistant cases, concave bezels and oversized markers offered everything professional and amateur divers needed for underwater exploration. By the mid 1960’s, Willy Breitling decided he wanted to improve the performance of the Superocean, focusing on the easy and safe reading of diving duration. The minute recorder is typically small for effortless reading under the water and so instead, Breitling developed a calibre where the main chronograph hand would indicate the elapsed dive time. Housing this calibre was the Breitling Superocean Slow Motion watch. With its instantly legible dial, thick minutes track and ratcheted bezel, it became an essential tool for divers.

It is the original Breitling Superocean Slow Motion watch that inspires the new 2022 collection launched today. It revives the statement minutes track and thin ceramic bezel inlay complemented by a new metal rehaut and similar shaped hands and indexes for easy legibility. Adding to the retro aesthetic is several modern features including a bright palette of colour found on the dials, a choice of three case metals and a newly designed black rubber strap with two-toned texture. There’s also the introduction of a new folding buckle with micro-adjustment and a special Breitling Superocean 2022 Limited Edition designed in collaboration with brand ambassador Kelly Slater. To help you find which new Breitling Superocean watch is for you, here’s a full run down of the 2022 collection…

Next up in the Breitling Superocean 2022 watch collection is a range of 42mm models. In this range, we’re treated to three different case metals including three stainless steel models, a single two-toned steel and gold piece and a rare bronze edition. The three steel references are available with black, blue or white dials, the former offering a matching black bezel while the latter opt for blue ceramic inserts. The black and blue dials maintain the same silvered hardware with Superluminova while the white dial opts for blue outlines for the hands and indexes. We’re offered the same 300m water resistance, sapphire crystal glass, unidirectional bezel and Breitling Calibre 17 movement.

For the Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 watch in steel and gold, the main component of the 42mm case is engineered from stainless steel while the ratcheted exterior of the bezel and screw in crown are finished in 18ct gold. The bezel is done in black and matches the rest of the aesthetic with a gold-coloured 60 minute scale. The dial also follows suit with a black display and golden hardware. This model is completed by a single black textured rubber strap. Lastly, the Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 Bronze watch is one of our favourites out of the entire Breitling Superocean 2022 collection. It pairs the utilitarian khaki-green dial and bezel of the 44mm model with a patina-pending bronze case. All the spec stays the same other than the strap which is done in green rubber and secured by a bronze folding clasp with micro-adjustment.

The only limited edition in the Breitling Superocean 2022 watch collection is this bold orange-dialled model which has been designed in collaboration with Breitling brand ambassador Kelly Slater. Part of Breitling’s Surfer Squad, Kelly Slater is known for being the most successful surfers of all time as well as the co-founder of the sustainable apparel manufacturer Outerknown. Breitling supported this sustainable venture with their own range of Breitling Outerknown watches back in 2018. Now the pair collaborate again, this time with the Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 Kelly Slater Limited Edition watch. The design follows closely in the footsteps of the 42mm counterparts above with a 42mm stainless steel case, black ceramic insert unidirectional rotating bezel, screw in crown, sapphire crystal glass and 300m water resistant rating. It is also powered by the Breitling Calibre 17 chronometer movement and secures to the wrist by a black rubber strap. The real difference in the Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 Kelly Slater Limited Edition watch is its dial which is dressed in a bold orange hue, a colour famous for its legibility in diving conditions. It pairs the orange backdrop with Superluminova markers and hands and a unique green-tipped seconds hand. The case back is also engraved with its limited edition number out of 1000 pieces.

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Breitling Avenger Chronograph GMT 45 Stainless Steel

One of the Breitling new references launched in Los Angeles was this duo of GMT watches, the Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 replica (reference A32395101C1A1 or A32395101C1X1 / A32395101C1X2) and the related Avenger Automatic GMT 45 Night Mission replica (reference V32395101B1X1 / V32395101B1X2).
As GMT watches, these are good looking timepieces, Breitling Avenger watch replica V32395101B1X2 has a black dial and is delivered on a sand-colored leather military strap with a pin or folding buckle. The red GMT hands on both the blue-dialed standard steel version and the military-style Night Mission are extremely easy to read and not easily confused with the hour or minute hand. Its hands and indexes are coated with Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility in all lighting conditions. The 24-hour scale, on the other hand, is a bit tiny and will require good eyes. This does mean that the uni-directional rotating bezel can still be used for a 60-minute timer — which, honestly, is rare for GMT watches of this pedigree.
The Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 Night Mission fake has a 45 mm case made of strong but lightweight DLC-coated titanium. The Arabic numerals were inspired by the numbers stenciled on the decks of aircraft carriers, thanks to the wide lugs. Given the width, they feel thin at just 12.3mm-thick, and the cases are water resistant to 30 meters with an AR-coated sapphire crystal over the dial.
Inside the Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 watches replica, Breitling uses a sourced Swiss movement (base ETA 2893, I believe), which they call their Caliber 32 movement. It operates at 4Hz with about 42 hours of power reserve and also features the date, in addition to the time and 24-hour GMT hand for a second time zone display. Breitling has each of the movements COSC-Chronometer certified.
Wow, that’s hot! Show up wearing the Breitling Avenger Chronograph 45 Night Mission, and that’s how you’ll be greeted. This chronograph is one of 14 models presented in fall 2019 as the reinvigorated and streamlined Avenger collection, including four watches that replace the former Colt collection.

Such enthusiasm for our test watch! It’s no doubt because of its sporty, striking design with a military green dial and strap as well as its dark coated case, which gave the watch its “Night Mission” name. Everything about it exudes strength and robustness: the wide stepped bezel, the sturdy ringed chronograph pushers, the large screw-down crown with crown guard, the striking hour markers and the calfskin strap with an industrial-looking embossed pattern. Size alone is not the determining factor in making its powerful impression – even though the watch measures 45 mm across and a strapping 16.5 mm in height, neither dimension is really all that noticeable and surprisingly, the wearing comfort is still great. With its smooth underside, supple leather strap and flat buckle, the watch fits snugly on the wrist. Of course, the light 120-gram weight also plays a role, thanks to Breitling’s use of titanium.
All in all, the test confirmed our first impression. Breitling has created a sturdy sports watch that is suitable for everyday wear, and whose design is in harmony with its functionality. The design, finishing, comfort and ease-of-use of this new model are particularly pleasing, and the only real drawback is the difficulty in reading the elapsed time.

The Breitling Avenger Chronograph 45 Night Mission is therefore the right companion for sports and everyday missions, whether by day or, as the name suggests, by night.

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Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 2022 42mm and 44mm Watch

Breitling’s new SuperOcean Automatic collection for 2022 is as vast and varied as the many seas and oceans of the world that they’re designed to dive in. There are 16 individual references in total, which is a lot but thankfully I only have two in front of me, which is much easier to review. Specifically, I have Breitling’s 2022 SuperOcean Automatic 42mm dark blue and 44mm turquoise.

When they first arrived at Oracle Time HQ, I was initially quite dismissive of them. I struggled to think of them as anything other than Breitling’s take on a Doxa, especially as bright colours are practically a Doxa signature these days. But having spent time with them, I can’t deny that they’ve grown on me.
The first aspect that started to win me over was their cases. Both versions here are stainless steel, although several of the 16 references are bronze or steel and gold bi-colour. To me, steel is the most natural material for a dive watch. It’s sporty without sacrificing on the satisfying heft of weight that more advanced materials like titanium lack. Plus, the durability means scratches are less of an issue than on a gold model. But the real killer aspect of the cases is the way they sit on the wrist. The 42mm is a dream and the 44mm (a size I usually wouldn’t consider) feels perfectly reasonable. That’s largely because their heights are such that they slip easily under a cuff, the 44mm is only 12.6mm high. The crown guards are shapely and satisfying rather than bulky. I’d still advise caution for the 46mm versions though, unless you’re built like a tank, because they have an additional bezel locking mechanism on the left of the case that makes the bigger diameter even more pronounced. But that’s not an issue with the two here. With the case starting to win me around, I took a moment to re-evaluate my thoughts on the dials. The 42mm has a deep blue colour for the central area and hour scale (which matches the colour of the ceramic inlay unidirectional rotating bezel) and a white minutes scale around the outside. The 44mm is slightly more complex as the centre portion and bezel aren’t colour matched, the dial being turquoise and the bezel black.The contrast between the minute scale and hour scale reminds me of the tachymeter on the recent Breitling Navitimer Chronograph Collection. However, the chunky baton indexes coated with SuperLuminova give the SuperOcean 42mm and 44mm strong retro dive watch aesthetics.

In fact, the display was inspired by a 1960s SuperOcean nicknamed the ‘Slow Motion’, a fact best seen in the modern watches’ square minutes hand. That hand is definitely the hardest part of the design to swallow – almost as if Breitling is trying too hard to create a “signature” hand design. But let’s be honest with ourselves, it’s no more outlandish than Tudor’s Snowflake or Rolex’s Mercedes hand. Unfortunately, the one element of the Breitling SuperOcean 42mm and Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 44mm that I find tricky to reconcile is the movement inside. It’s the Breitling Calibre 17, an automatic calibre based on the ETA 2824-2 with a 38-hour power reserve. In a microbrand dive watch I can take that, for Breitling it’s subpar. It also feels a tad lazy to use a single calibre for a collection of watches with such diverse case sizes from 36mm to 46mm, surely there were more options available at the larger sizes.
However, at the end of my time with these two watches, a single gripe about the movement is hardly the end of the world for a collection of watches I was ready to set aside and not look back. If I were to pick one up, it would be the 44mm turquoise, the colour is too good.

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Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43

It’s iconic. It’s complicated. It’s the Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43. Without a doubt, the Navitimer is Breitling’s flagship model. When you think of Breitling, an image of the circular slide rule bezel surrounding three subdials is the first thing likely to pop into your head.
My dad and I always talk about space and aviation. It’s been a staple topic of conversation since I was a little kid. Aerospace has been my dad’s passion since he was a child. Over many decades he’s passed that same interest on to me. Whenever I mention the Omega Speedmaster to him, my dad quickly reminds me (in the way dads do), “…you know? The Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 is the real space watch.”
There is an element of truth in that statement. Dads are usually right and modern marketing is not always consistent with history. Omega wasn’t the first to market watches with astronauts just as the United States space program didn’t start with a Moon landing. A vintage Breitling advertising campaign depicts the (at the time) larger-than-life NASA Astronaut Scott Carpenter. Scott Carpenter famously wore the Breitling Cosmonaut-Navitimer (24hr dial) on the NASA mission Mercury-Atlas 7 (May 24th, 1962). This took place seven years before the Moon landing.

Throughout many iterations since its commercial release in 1952, the Breitling Navitimer continues to retain most of its original design and functional elements. Is there a modern place for yesterday’s analog pilot’s tool in today’s upscale modern life? As a fashion item, sure, but what about as a useful tool? To assess the Navitimer B01 we will look at the watch with a critical eye, but we will also provide instructions for operating the watch’s slide rule bezel in order to focus on its often overlooked functionality as a tool.
The Navitimer that Breitling lent me for review came on a black calfskin leather strap with a tang-type buckle. The leather strap felt substantial between the Navitimer’s 22mm wide lugs. Breitling wisely chose a thick leather to back up the proportions of the 43mm Navitimer. The calfskin strap tapered from 22mm to 18mm at the buckle and was slightly padded. In the interest of full disclosure, I swapped the Breitling strap for a Barton Silicone Elite because I don’t care for leather. That is just a personal preference and does not take away from the high-quality Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 leather strap. With the five options listed above, you can find something you’ll like, for sure.

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Breitling Super Chronomat B01 44 AB0136A71A1S1

Your Breitling chronometer is a sophisticated instrument that is constantly subjected to a wide variety of stresses and strains. Within a very small volume, a large number of components contribute to handling all the functions. Their mechanical action inevitably leads to a certain amount of wear and tear, which may be controlled by maintenance consisting of relubrication and replacing worn components. Like any precision measurement instrument, your watch must be regularly maintained in order to function at its highest level of potential: the frequency of this operation varies according to actual use. Breitling or your authorized retailer will be happy to handle the procedure.

The movement of your chronometer is protected by a complex case fi tted with gaskets to ensure its water resistance. Under the infl uence of various external agents – perspiration, chlorinated or saltwater, cosmetics, fragrances, or dust – these gaskets gradually deteriorate. That is why water resistance cannot be permanently guaranteed. If used intensively in water, we recommend having an
annual water-resistance check conducted. In any event, such an appraisal must be done every two years. This operation, which takes only a few minutes may be conducted by a Breitling authorized maintenance center, or by an authorized retailer (www.breitling.com).

Breitling Super Chronomat B01 44 AB0136A71A1S1 models are water-resistant to varying degrees. The extent of the water resistance, expressed in meters (M), is a standard value and does not indicate an absolute immersion depth. The crown and push-pieces must not under any circumstances be operated underwater or when the watch is wet. The table below indicates the conditions in which your watch may reasonably be used, according to its degree of water resistance:

Breitling Super Chronomat B01 44 AB0136A71A1S1 genuine leather straps are crafted with the most refi ned materials and represent extremely high-quality products. Like all objects in natural skin (shoes, gloves, etc.), their length of life varies considerably, according to the conditions in which they are worn. ln particular, water, cosmetics, and perspiration accelerate the aging process. A metal or synthetic Breitling bracelet is thus better suited to activities involving frequent contact with water or moisture.

Breitling metal cases and bracelets are made from fi nest alloys and guarantee sturdiness and wearer comfort. Regular cleaning by
rinsing and brushing in clean water will keep your watch shiny. This operation is strongly recommended after each immersion in salty
or chlorinated water. For watches fi tted with a leather strap, the same advice applies, as well as avoiding getting the strap wet.

Like any valuable objects, Breitling Super Chronomat B01 44 AB0136A71A1S1 deserve special care. It is important to protect them from jarring and knocks by hard objects, and not to expose them to chemical products, solvents, dangerous gases, or magnetic fi eds. Moreover, your Breitling chronometer is designed to run smoothly at temperatures ranging between 0°C and 50°C.

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Urwerk UR-111C Gunmetal

Since its inception, Urwerk has always been about pushing the boundaries of what a mechanical watch can be. Founders Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner continue to innovate in terms of both design and mechanics, while always using their solid watchmaking foundation to ground their work in the history of horology. Their latest creation, the Urwerk UR-111C Gunmetal uses a totally new kind of time display that’s a bit of a departure from the orbital satellite system that the brand is best known for. And it’s a doozy. On the “front” there are two conical displays – jumping hours on the left and running minutes on the right – and a unique helix-shaped minutes indicator in the center that also has a retrograde function. As if that wasn’t enough, there’s also a jumping digital seconds display on the top of the watch that uses an array of optical fibers to project the numbers up toward the sapphire crystal window. Like I said, it’s a doozy.

In addition to the new ways of showing the time, Urwerk UR-111C Gunmetal wanted to give wearers a new way to interface with the watch. You’ll notice that there’s no traditional crown to speak of. Instead, there are a pair of mechanisms for winding the setting the watch. For the former, you use the cylindrical roller that’s set into the top of the case, just below that jumping seconds display. Now, to set the watch, there’s a lever that pops out of the right side of the case that can then be used to turn things forward or backward. This is definitely a watch that’s all about doing things differently and if you’re looking for something genuinely unique, the Urwerk UR-111C Gunmetal looks like a heck of an interesting option.

Urwerk’s watches are tough to appreciate without seeing them in the metal, but even from the images here and the brief descriptions Urwerk sent over, I’m really impressed here. This watch is completely excessive in its pursuit of doing things in different, surprising ways, and the various indicators are constructed to an extremely high level, in terms of both precision and craftsmanship.

While I’m not at all shy about saying that a watch like this probably won’t be making its way onto my wrist in real life any time soon, I’ll also say I’m very excited to see this one in the metal. What Urwerk does stands on its own merits, and I think you’d be hard-pressed to find many watch nerds who don’t at least appreciate what the brand is doing from a conceptual standpoint. Watches like the Urwerk UR-111C Gunmetal make us question what we think we already know about mechanical watchmaking, force us to interact with them in new ways, and challenge us to be open to new interpretations of traditional horology. I’m always up for that.

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Urwerk UR-111C Iron

As part of the brand’s ‘Special Projects’ line, the UR-111C is Urwerk at its best, a mature watch that soars with mechanical ingenuity and a design ethos straight out of Blade Runner. Although it does not bear the hallmark satellite hour hands we have come to associate with the brand, the Urwerk UR-111C Iron is packed with imaginative displays (jumping hours, linear retrograde minutes, optical fibre-augmented seconds) and a look and feel that is 100% Urwerk.

Alternative ways of displaying time via satellite hours on board futuristic vessels are the bread and butter of Urwerk. So when the brand unveiled its latest opus, the UR-111C, without its signature satellite hour complication, everybody’s ears pricked up. The UR-111C is a fascinating machine and draws on inspiration from the former King Cobra model. Presenting time in multiple formats (linear and digital) located in different portholes on the case, the other surprising feature of this watch is the new interface. Dispensing with a conventional crown, Urwerk has incorporated a novel roller in the centre of the case with an extractable lever to set the time.

First presented by Brice when it made its debut in September 2018, we’ve now had the opportunity of handling the Urwerk UR-111C Iron and getting a feel for its personality and presence. Like all Urwerk watches, a brief introductory course on how to read the time is useful along with a certain open-mindedness and willingness to be transported into another dimension of horology. The new UR-111C shares some traits of the UR-CC1 King Cobra another dissident model that departed from the wandering hours formula by incorporating linear and retrograde indications. Like the King Cobra, the UR-111C displays the hours and minutes in a linear driver’s-style display at the front of the watch, but that’s about where the similarities end.

Like a driver’s watch, the display of the Urwerk UR-111C Iron is designed to let you consult the time without having to lift your hands off the steering wheel or flight controls. A gentle pivot of the wrist and the time is revealed in the three rounded sapphire crystal glass compartments located just above the lugs at the bottom of the case. Jumping hours are read on the left side of the dashboard thanks to a rotating cone that performs a brisk jump on the hour.

The real show-stopper, occupying most of the allotted space in the central window, is the linear representation of minutes placed along a diagonal track and read by a rotating helix with a thick yellow marker. The barrel with the minute markers is fixed and has a diagonal slash in its middle to reveal the position of the slanted yellow marker and indicate the minutes. Behind the minute barrel is another, larger barrel decorated with dynamic cut-out vents to reveal parts of the coiled spring lurking below deck. Thanks to the coiled spring, the drum with the yellow marker twists its way up the minute track and, upon reaching the red 60-minute marker, performs a larger, instantaneous jump back to zero forcing the hours to jump ahead. The cone on the right is not for the seconds but instead repeats the minute readings in a rotating display, providing the watch with two very different formats to consult the minutes. Of no real practical value, the second rotating minutes display is really there to provide visual balance. I did find, however, that the metallic markings on the inside of the conical sapphire crystal reflected a lot of light and at times it was not easy to see the hours or minutes.

The seconds are given their very own cabin on board the Urwerk UR-111C Iron and are located underneath a large sapphire glass aperture towards the top end of the case, bolted down with four screws – in keeping with the industrial design ethos of Urwerk. Reminiscent of the window on those front-loading cassette recorders of yesterday, the round digital seconds counter below seems to float very near the surface. For a more detailed explanation of the miniature mechanics involved here, Brice’s article elucidates it all.

Composed of two separate wheels with odd and even numbers, the fun thing here is the way the digits seem to push up against the glass, as if they were located closer to the surface than they actually are. Instead of a conventional Cyclops lens, Urwerk has performed a world first in watchmaking by using optical fibres (an image conduit) positioned 1/10th of a millimetre above the numerals to create the illusion of proximity, while in reality the numbers are ensconced far below. Although it takes a bit of adaptation to get used to reading the different time formats, you can’t complain about a boring, conventional display!

Compared to the King Cobra, the case construction of the UR-111C is far more sophisticated and aerodynamic. The conspicuous curvature of the case follows the contours of the wrist beautifully. Although many might balk at the dimensions of Urwerk’s wrist machines, the UR-111C is perhaps the most wearable model to date. Crafted in two different finishes of stainless steel – one in polished steel that gleams like a Greyhound bus from the 1950s, the other in a darker gunmetal steel – the case is 46mm long, 42mm wide and 15mm in height at the thickest point. (As a point of reference, the Apple Watch Series 4 is now available in a 44mm length.) Not demure statistics by any stretch of the imagination, but the curvature of the case, the sleek cambered design and pliant front lug go a long way in mitigating its bulk.

The model we had in for review was the gunmetal steel version with an inviting sandblasted matte finish that feels great to the touch. Once again, you can feel designer Martin Frei’s elegant geometric minimalism at work here. Along the lines of the American Streamline Moderne (aka ‘Art Deco on the Move’) school of the late 1930’s, characterised by sleek, aerodynamic lines emulating the profiles of trains, ocean liners, aeroplanes and cars, the case of the UR-111C features vertical speed lines on the breastplate and curvaceous indentations that bring a highly streamlined and tactile appeal to the watch.

Traversing the centre of the case is a cylindrical roller etched with deep grooves to match the rest of the decoration.  Instead of a conventional crown perched on the top of the case, Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner wanted to create a new way for the wearer to interact with the watch and came up with the idea of creating a roller to wind the watch. The sensation of rolling the fluted cylinder is extremely satisfying and, like any conventional crown will stop when the watch is fully wound. In addition to respecting the streamlined dynamics of the case – not interrupted by a hulking crown – this original approach to reinventing the crown and engage the wearer is, in my eyes, one of the triumphs of this watch. Another neat little device is the time-setting lever ensconced on the right side of the case. By extracting the lever you can roll the roller to set the time. Because of its unique architecture, the movement has to be slotted in from the side of the case. The caseback is decorated with parallel vertical grilles that continue the theme of the front side of the case. Unfortunately, the mechanics are not revealed on the reverse side but the automatic movement powering the jumping hours, retrograde linear minutes, digital minutes and seconds has a 48h power reserve and a 4 Hz (28,800 vph) frequency, and has been decorated with circular graining, Geneva stripes and features polished screw heads.

Rest assured that although the brand’s signature wandering hour display has been jettisoned in favour of other formats, this watch is Urwerk to the core. Sleek, streamlined and flight-ready, the matte gunmetal finish of the model gives the watch a stealth/industrial/Sci-Fi look that is also extremely seductive to the touch. Despite its dimensions and commanding personality, the UR-111C is much more compact than other Urwerk watches and its curved case makes it altogether wearable, even on small wrists of 17cm (as photographed). Although some of the information relayed (two separate minute registers) might not be vital, and for some even superfluous, it animates the watch no end. The original reinterpretation of the crown with the central roller is what fascinated us most about this watch and the way it invites a higher level of interaction between man and machine.

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Urwerk UR-111C Black Cobra

The 2018 launch of Urwerk’s UR-111C generated quite a bit of buzz among the watch community. A dissident from the signature wandering hours complication, the UR-111C flaunted jumping hours, linear retrograde minutes, a novel roller crown, and optical fibre-augmented seconds all the while remaining faithful to Urwerk’s Sci-Fi design ethos. Making its debut in two case materials – matte gunmetal steel and a polished and brushed steel version – Urwerk welcomed a third UR-111C to the club during Baselworld 2019 with this sleek, stealth Black Cobra version. As a descendant of the UR-CC1 King Cobra, the name of this new red and black model is a direct tribute to its ancestor.

The case of the Black Cobra is made from black-coated steel and titanium with smooth sandblasted and satin-finished surfaces and shares exactly the same dimensions as its brothers: a case length of 46mm, a width of 42mm, and a height of 15mm at the thickest point. Not a small watch by any stretch of the imagination, but honestly, would anybody investing in a Urwerk watch want something demure and low-key? However, the matte black case does make the dimensions seem smaller. Coupled with the sleek cambered design and fluid curvature of the case, the watch sits high but very comfortably on the wrist.

The vertical grooves on the top part of the case reference the American Streamline Moderne movement of the late 1930s characterised by aerodynamic lines (just think Greyhound buses) to accentuate the idea of speed. Towards the rear end of the case and smack in the centre is the novel cylindrical roller, also etched with deep grooves, which replaces the crown. The idea was to offer owners a new interface and a new way to interact with the watch; by rolling the roller (sorry), the watch is wound. To set the time, a small lever tucked into the right side of the case can be extracted switching the roller to time-setting mode.

Obviously, the layout of the UR-111C Black Cobra has not altered and the hours and minutes are still displayed in three curved sapphire crystal compartments at the front of the watch. The jumping hours are on the left side of the dashboard, the large window in the centre showcases the retrograde minutes, and the window on the right repeats the minute readings in a rotating display. So far, no changes. The main design update is the new colour scheme used to highlight the numerals of all three displays. Instead of using white numbers, the Black Cobra incorporates bright red ones and has substituted the original red 60-minute marker for a yellow one. The idea behind this slanting time display is taken from the 2009 King Cobra, a drivers style display allowing you to consult the time without having to twist your wrist.

Moving up to the aperture above the roller, we can also see a similar colour scheme on board the seconds cabin. Urwerk has used optical fibres, positioned 1/10th of a millimetre above the seconds numerals to create the illusion of proximity. Thanks to this optical illusion, the magnified digits appear to graze up against the glass. In a similar fashion to the hours and minutes, the former white seconds have been replaced with bright red numerals and the 60th second is now picked out in yellow. These might seem like tiny design upgrades but when combined with the black case, the watch takes on a darker, more stealth personality.

To animate the impressive displays on board the UR-111C, co-founder and master watchmaker Felix Baumgartner had to come up with a pretty impressive movement. The unprecedented construction of the movement meant that the case had to be built around the movement. What’s more, the unusual shape of the movement also meant that it could not be cased up in the normal way and had to be introduced through the side of the case. The caseback is decorated with parallel vertical grilles that continue the theme of the front side of the case. Unfortunately, the mechanics are not revealed on the reverse side but the automatic movement powering the jumping hours, retrograde linear minutes, digital minutes and seconds has a 48h power reserve and a 4 Hz (28,800vph) frequency, and has been decorated with circular graining, Geneva stripes and features polished screw heads.

This third take on the UR-111C is more enigmatic, darker, racier and oddly enough generates more impact than its steel counterparts. The substitution of white for red numerals and the sleek black case adds a cool retro touch. Does it remind any of you of the flashing red grille on KITT, the Knight Rider’s car? And I don’t mean this disparagingly. Back then, it was the height of cool.