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Urwerk UR-220 C81 “Falcon Project”

Over the summer, the watchmaking duo of Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner presented what was to be the final edition of Urwerk’s UR-210 watch, a classic of contemporary independent watch design that had become, since it launched in 2012, the reference I most associated with their company. Recently, they’ve announced the followup to the UR-210 in the form of the new UR-220, codenamed the “Falcon Project.” Besides being quite a cool looking watch, the UR-220 introduces some new features, includes the return of others, and offers a glimpse into the next chapter of the UR-200 series.
On the materials front, the Urwerk UR-220 C81 “Falcon Project” case comes in the form of 81 ultra-thin layers of high-resistance 150g CTP carbon that has been compressed into a hard resin. If you look closely at the sloping top of the case, the fact that it’s made of many layers is apparent. (CTP stands for Carbon Thin Ply; we’ve seen the material also used in the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater). The UR-220 strap is made of rubber, a first for Urwerk. But it’s not just any rubber strap. For its first rubber strap, Urwerk has used what it refers to as the Vulcarboné process, which Urwerk says give it a touch like velvet.
Most obviously, the UR-220 uses the familiar system of planetary, or wandering, hours. However, unlike in the UR-210 models, the movement here is manually wound, not automatic.

It’s this signature, three-armed display that most of us tend to associate with Urwerk. The hours are displayed on three blocks that are connected to the three arms. The display portion comprises a 120-degree arc along which the arms pass, picking up the retrograde minutes, which snap back on the hour, as they go. The display can seem a bit elaborate at first, but it’s actually very intuitive. And thanks to the high level of contrast between the green numbers and minute track and the black architecture of the carousel, it’s quite legible too.

Each rotating arm has a block with four of its sides bearing numbers that correspond to the hours. The only other dial-side display is the power-reserve indicator, or indicators, I should say. There are two them, tucked in the upper left and upper right corners of the display, respectively. Each of them tracks consecutive 24-hour periods, so that when the first is filled or emptied, the second takes over, for a total power reserve of 48 hours. Splitting the power reserve between two displays was no simple feat: It required some 83 additional parts.
On the back of the Urwerk UR-220 C81 “Falcon Project”, we see the return of the oil change indicator, a display that was long seen in Urwerk’s UR-110 models. In its UR-220 guise, the indicator sees some enhancements. When the owner takes possession of a new UR-220, he or she will notice a pin on the back of the watch. Pulling the pin causes the oil change indicator to start counting the months of the watch’s active running time. After 39 months, the UR-220 should be sent in for service, after which Urwerk’s watchmakers reset the indicator to zero and reinstall the pin, allowing the process to be repeated.
Looking at the UR-220, one can see a strong resemblance to the recently retired UR-210. The CTP carbon case – the first of its kind for Urwerk – the use of a manual-wind movement, and titanium caseback make the UR-220 a lightweight watch, and a relatively sleek one by Urwerk standards. The new case material also gives the UR-220 a wonderfully textured look. I think it’s a great look, but I was so surprised that Urwerk hadn’t made a carbon case before that I double-checked this with the company’s U.S. office. The rubber strap, which has a great textured/layered look that works perfectly with the case, is another surprising first.
But for me, the oil change indicator with removable pin is maybe the coolest element of the new UR-220. It’s thoughtful creations like this, which can be found throughout Urwerk’s watches, that I think are most attractive to our “teenage brain,” that part of us that will happily construct a Rube Goldberg machine to be amused or enchanted.

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Urwerk UR-220 All Black “Falcon Project”

Over the summer, the watchmaking duo of Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner presented what was to be the final edition of Urwerk’s UR-210 watch, a classic of contemporary independent watch design that had become, since it launched in 2012, the reference I most associated with their company. Recently, they’ve announced the followup to the UR-210 in the form of the new UR-220, codenamed the “Falcon Project.” Besides being quite a cool looking watch, the UR-220 introduces some new features, includes the return of others, and offers a glimpse into the next chapter of the UR-200 series.
On the materials front, the UR-220 case comes in the form of 81 ultra-thin layers of high-resistance 150g CTP carbon that has been compressed into a hard resin. If you look closely at the sloping top of the case, the fact that it’s made of many layers is apparent. (CTP stands for Carbon Thin Ply; we’ve seen the material also used in the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater). The UR-220 strap is made of rubber, a first for Urwerk. But it’s not just any rubber strap. For its first rubber strap, Urwerk has used what it refers to as the Vulcarboné process, which Urwerk says give it a touch like velvet.
Most obviously, the UR-220 uses the familiar system of planetary, or wandering, hours. However, unlike in the UR-210 models, the movement here is manually wound, not automatic.

It’s this signature, three-armed display that most of us tend to associate with Urwerk. The hours are displayed on three blocks that are connected to the three arms. The display portion comprises a 120-degree arc along which the arms pass, picking up the retrograde minutes, which snap back on the hour, as they go. The display can seem a bit elaborate at first, but it’s actually very intuitive. And thanks to the high level of contrast between the green numbers and minute track and the black architecture of the carousel, it’s quite legible too.
Each rotating arm has a block with four of its sides bearing numbers that correspond to the hours. The only other dial-side display is the power-reserve indicator, or indicators, I should say. There are two them, tucked in the upper left and upper right corners of the display, respectively. Each of them tracks consecutive 24-hour periods, so that when the first is filled or emptied, the second takes over, for a total power reserve of 48 hours. Splitting the power reserve between two displays was no simple feat: It required some 83 additional parts.
On the back of the Urwerk’s UR-210 watch, we see the return of the oil change indicator, a display that was long seen in Urwerk’s UR-110 models. In its UR-220 guise, the indicator sees some enhancements. When the owner takes possession of a new Urwerk’s UR-210 watch, he or she will notice a pin on the back of the watch. Pulling the pin causes the oil change indicator to start counting the months of the watch’s active running time. After 39 months, the UR-220 should be sent in for service, after which Urwerk’s watchmakers reset the indicator to zero and reinstall the pin, allowing the process to be repeated.
Looking at the UR-220, one can see a strong resemblance to the recently retired UR-210. The CTP carbon case – the first of its kind for Urwerk – the use of a manual-wind movement, and titanium caseback make the UR-220 a lightweight watch, and a relatively sleek one by Urwerk standards. The new case material also gives the UR-220 a wonderfully textured look. I think it’s a great look, but I was so surprised that Urwerk hadn’t made a carbon case before that I double-checked this with the company’s U.S. office. The rubber strap, which has a great textured/layered look that works perfectly with the case, is another surprising first.
But for me, the oil change indicator with removable pin is maybe the coolest element of the new UR-220. It’s thoughtful creations like this, which can be found throughout Urwerk’s watches, that I think are most attractive to our “teenage brain,” that part of us that will happily construct a Rube Goldberg machine to be amused or enchanted.

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Urwerk UR-100 V Iron

Introduced last year, the UR-100 was a sort of back-to-basics for URWERK. Besides retaining the ultra-bold design of all the brand’s creation, it was simplified, more compact, more focused – a sort of throwback to the early days of the brand, with the UR101/102. After inaugural editions in black or silver, followed by a Gunmetal model and a lustrous gold version, the brand now launches a monochromatic, fully metallic version. Meet the URWERK UR-100V Iron.

Since its debut in the 1990s, the independent brand created by Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner stands out with its radical, futuristic designs and its original way to portray time. The idea of wandering hours, like those on a sundial, is omnipresent. The stage was set from the very beginning with the creation of the UR101/102 displaying time on an arc. Then came the satellite time indication with a host of creative and complex iterations… satellites, cams, transporters, rotating cubes, telescopic hands and retrograde indications. Complications and displays that are still alive, even in the brand’s latest creation, the UR-220 Falcon Project. But with the URWERK UR-100V Iron, there was the intention to go back to the roots of the brand, with a display that echoed the first watches of Frei and Baumgartner.

The new URWERK UR-100V Iron features the brand’s emblematic satellite time display with orbital hour satellites. The red-tipped minute pointers on the hour satellites disappear after 60 minutes, later replaced by the next hour. Yet, the red tip reappears on another part of the dial, to display original astronomical indications: distance travelled on Earth (at 10 o’clock) and distance travelled by Earth (at 2 o’clock).

As Xavier explained in our article on the first models: “Basically, it uses the speed of Earth at the equator or the Earth’s orbital speed around the sun to display the distance travelled from these different perspectives in about 20 minutes. For instance, at the equator, the circumference of the Earth is 40,070 kilometres, and the day is 24-hours long so the speed is 1,670 kilometres/hour. That gives you the 555.55km travelled in about 20 minutes by the indicator at 10 o’clock. In a similar fashion, the indicator at 2 o’clock shows the distance Earth has travelled around the sun, a journey spanning some 35,740 km every 20 minutes. Naturally, these additional ‘space-time’ indications won’t be of any practical use in everyday life (at least to me) but it’s more an invitation to dream that matches URWERK’s space-age universe quite well.”

The back of the watch reveals the movement, the automatic calibre 12.01 – once again, a slightly simpler solution than the one found in UR-2xx series. The drilled full rotor is regulated by a planetary flat turbine to minimise shocks to the rotor bearing and to reduce wear and tear. A traditional URWERK UR-100V Iron feature, the baseplates are in ARCAP, an alloy that does not contain iron and is not magnetic. The calibre 12.01 beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and its power reserve is 48 hours.

For 2020, the novelty is this URWERK UR-100V Iron, which adds new colours to this impressive watch. The relatively compact case (at least for a URWERK, measuring 41mm width x 49.7mm length x 14mm height) combines titanium and stainless steel. It shows multiple surface finishings, all done by hand – with polished, matte, sanded and shot-peened surfaces, depending on where you look. This adds an architectural sense to this watch, without loosing the full metallic style.

To complement this cold, almost naked full-metal look, the brand plays with touches of dark blue – something new for URWERK. The hour numerals and the minute track contrast boldly with the bright metal surfaces. This cold colour is also used for the strap, made from Alcantara.

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Urwerk EMC Time Hunter Stormtrooper

Novelty watches are usually cheap and cheerful. Just ask Timex, busy pimping Charlie Brown’s beagle. Or Romain Jerome, a brand that went under trying to sell novelty watches for 15 large plus (e.g., the Tetris-based Moon Invader). Judging from the Urwerk EMC Time Hunter Stormtrooper, Urwerk shares RJ’s ill-fated belief that really expensive novelty watches can be fun and profitable. The Stormtrooper sells for a startling . . .
In the EMC TimeHunter Stormtrooper’s defense, Urwerk is only making five examples. And all Urwerk’s watches are fabulously expensive. As the Swiss watchmaker is still in business, we can assume there’s a market for their mechanically complex, meticulously assembled, bizarro–bonkers designs.

That said, there’s not a lot of novelty on display. The “Stormtrooper” bit consists of the watch’s white ceramic “armour” case contrasting with black accents. Otherwise, we’re looking at a bog-standard Urwerk EMC Time Hunter Stormtrooper, a design launched in 2017.
It’s a clever piece of kit, aimed at wealthy horophiles obsessed with accuracy. The EMC TimeHunter’s in-house movement includes an optical sensor on the balance wheel (controlled by an integrated circuit board) that captures the precise rate of oscillation of the engine’s 4 hertz / 28,800 vph regulator.

The Stormtrooper’s dial displays the resulting “precision delta.” The accuracy indicator ranges from +/-15 seconds per day; the amplitude meter clocks the difference between 180 to 330, measured in degrees.
If these are not the numbers you’re looking for, flip the watch over and turn the little screw (top center) to lengthen or shorten the mainspring’s active length.

“This allows the owner to adjust the time to suit his own lifestyle.” Whose “lifestyle” involves a fast or slow-running watch? By the same token who wants to hunt for the exact time with a TimeHunter?

Back to the Galactica (so to speak) . . .

Why Stormtrooper? For one thing, there are those of us for whom the word evokes less than wonderful associations, especially considering the German word “werk” in the company’s name. (Macht Frei and all that.) For another Star Wars.
Talk about irony. A watch built for split-second accuracy evoking the cinematic soldiers famous for not being able to hit shit? Jon Wayne Taylor, my friendly neighborhood Star Wars fan, gave me the 411 on that.

The cartoons, Star Wars Rebels, which is cannon, explains why the stormtroopers are notoriously bad shots.

In one episode a Clone famous for his shooting puts on the stormtrooper armor as a disguise. Starts missing everything. Complains he can’t see anything in the helmet.

In several episodes, people complain that the troop weapons of the Empire suck. Slaves were making them by then, and the Emperor was siphoning money from everything to build his new secret personal Final Order.

Typical government graft. The troops were getting crap. The Urwerk EMC Time Hunter Stormtrooper generals the latest and greatest techno toys. The truth about the Urwerk EMC TimeHunter Stormtrooper: it’s a really big (43mm), really complicated (FastFix service unavailable), really expensive, white watch.

It’s kinda cool, totally legible (with G-SHOCK-like labels for the RTFM crowd) and . . . not much a novelty, Star Wars-wise..

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Urwerk UR-100V “T-Rex”

You can call Urwerk watches by many names, but shy or conservative aren’t part of this vocabulary. Daring, bold, provocative, futuristic, unusual, these are perfect ways to describe these complex and avant-garde creations. Apart from the watches inspired by sci-fi and space exploration, one of the most striking models ever was the UR-105 T-Rex, a textured, patinated bronze reptile that, incidentally, also displays the time, in classic Urwerk style. This design is back, this time in the brand’s latest creation, with the new UR-100V T-Rex.

As said, bronze was used for the first time by Urwerk in 2016, with the UR-105 – back then, the simplest model in the collection. At first, the use of this metal, which somehow represents the past and antique objects, doesn’t really make sense in the context of ultra-modernism usually presented by Urwerk. But the brand likes to do things in a different way. Bronze isn’t used here to bring a vintage diver’s watch idea but to make an object with a more organic look, a more primal attraction, which is reinforced by the unusual texture of the case.

Now, in 2022, the brand introduces this same design concept on its new classic model, the UR-100V T-Rex. Presented in 2019, this watch is a sort of back to basics, the “essential” Urwerk with a focus mostly on its signature display. Since its debut in the 1990s, the independent brand created by Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner stands out with its radical, futuristic designs and its original way to portray time. The idea of wandering hours, like those on a sundial, is omnipresent. The stage was set from the very beginning with the creation of the UR101/102 displaying time on an arc. Then came the satellite time indication with a host of creative and complex iterations… satellites, cams, transporters, rotating cubes, telescopic hands, and retrograde indications. But with the UR-100, there was the intention to go back to the roots of the brand, with a display that echoed the first watches of Frei and Baumgartner.

The UR-100 features the emblematic satellite time display with orbital hour satellites. The red-tipped minute pointers on the hour satellites disappear after 60 minutes, later replaced by the next hour. Yet, the red tip reappears on another part of the dial, to display original astronomical indications: distance travelled on Earth (at 10 o’clock) and distance travelled by Earth (at 2 o’clock).

As explained in our article on the first models: “Basically, it uses the speed of Earth at the equator or the Earth’s orbital speed around the sun to display the distance travelled from these different perspectives in about 20 minutes. For instance, at the equator, the circumference of the Earth is 40,070 kilometres, and the day is 24-hours long so the speed is 1,670 kilometres/hour. That gives you the 555.55km travelled in about 20 minutes by the indicator at 10 o’clock. In a similar fashion, the indicator at 2 o’clock shows the distance Earth has travelled around the sun, a journey spanning some 35,740 km every 20 minutes. Naturally, these additional ‘space-time’ indications won’t be of any practical use in everyday life (at least to me) but it’s more an invitation to dream that matches URWERK’s space-age universe quite well.”

This year, the brand brings back the UR-100V T-Rex concept with this new Urwerk UR-100V model, which only differs in terms of colours and materials. The 41mm width x 49.7mm length case is made of bronze and PVD blackened titanium. The bronze has undergone three successive treatments. The first lies in the unusual composition of the alloy which results in a delicate patina. The bronze is then in the hands of a computer-controlled milling station that carves the pattern of scales on the top and sides of the case. The final processes, sand-blasting and Urwerk’s proprietary method of biochemical burnishing, give the watch its distinctive colour. Finally, these bevelled pyramids are truncated and polished to present a surface that is pleasing to the touch.

The display is here presented with a combination of dark colours – black background and bronze-coloured rotating elements – with bright yellow indications for maximum contrast. The watch is worn on a black alligator strap with bronze pin buckle.

The UR-100V T-Rex back of the watch reveals the movement, the automatic calibre 12.01. The drilled full rotor is regulated by a planetary flat turbine to minimise shocks to the rotor bearing and to reduce wear and tear. A traditional URWERK feature, the baseplates are in ARCAP, an alloy that does not contain iron and is not magnetic. The calibre 12.01 beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and its power reserve is 48 hours.

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Urwerk UR-100V Blue

It’s become a point of discussion within the watch collecting community of how many times, a watch brand will choose to announce an existing watch, in a new color and call it a new watch. What causes these discussions to often turn ugly is when a color that’s applied to an existing watch, doesn’t quite suit the watch in question. From first launch to offering the same timepiece in several other colors, how does any watch brand manage this thought process?

For the launch of their UR-100V “Blue Planet”, the sixth version of the UR-100 since its launch in 2019, master watchmaker, Felix Baumgartner and chief designer Martin Frei to address this very question.
“When I envision a [new] watch, normally I envision it in a plain steel [execution]. It’s kind of like the most neutral version. You can say black on the other hand has a similar aesthetics. That’s why I actually like these two colors; rather that they are not colors, they’re non colors. They reflect the world around,” begins Martin.

He adds, “When you have the neutral version of this watch finally in the flesh, and you are able to see how light reflects on it, that’s when I think it is possible for Felix and I to imagine what other colors or treatments could be applied to one of our watches. For URWERK, we have a palette of options, in terms of materials and how we treat the surfaces of these materials.”
Felix joins the conversation then to proclaim, “It’s not a difficult thing for Martin and I, we keep it quite organic, we discuss the fantasy realms of our watchmaking, share stories, conduct research and try out different things that we feel might work for the brand we’ve forged. It doesn’t happen too often for us, but from time to time, the stars align, and we find an approach that is of appeal to both our senses. We then commit to creating a series of the watch in question with this possibility in effect. We love how such an approach and the freedom that it allows, works for Martin and I.”

Says Martin, “It’s alchemy, it’s super pleasurable work, to try different materials on familiar designs. At times we find certain approaches not feasible, but it is during the process of the attempt that we discover new realms. Sometimes it feels like a game for us, but you know what we really enjoy this.”
“You know for the UR-100V “Blue Planet” all of the aspects of it that are in blue — shades of blue that Martin and I are both happy to share with the world on this watch — this didn’t happen overnight. It’s taken up almost a year now to get all of the colors just right for the watch,” sums up Felix.

The URWERK UR-100V “Blue Planet” gets its blue from a blue PVD-treated steel case with a titanium caseback and a blue PVD sandblasted steel crown. The blue within the movement of the watch is as well a PVD treatment, but as you can see, different shades of blue are applied from component to component, creating a great richness of depth across the timepiece. It’s no wonder the simple act of applying blue to the UR-100V has required the dynamic duo an entire year.

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TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M Quartz 32 Green

New this year is the TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M with a ceramic bezel (hands-on here in more versions). While it’s also available in other colorways, the blue and black of this particular reference seemed perfectly suited to the blue skies and deep blue ocean surrounding Maui. There is a lot to like about this watch, and of course, a few things TAG might improve upon. I’ve worn this TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M watch every day for over a week now, and it’s both good-looking and comfortable, so it’s become a welcome companion.

Sporting a blue ceramic bezel, a screw down crown, and 1000 feet of water resistance, this TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M is at home in the ocean SCUBA diving, surfing, or just going for a swim. The unidirectional 120-click bezel has lume on the index pip. I found the “decking” pattern on the dial quite attractive and rather nautical. There is a magnifier over the date at 3 which my old eyes welcomed. It does make the hands a bit less readable but that’s always the case with a cyclops. Speaking of readability, overall legibility is very good.

However, the blue seconds hand sort of gets lost with the black dial in some lighting conditions. You may have to spot the lumed tip to see the passing seconds. And there are a lot of shiny elements on this TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M watch – the hour markers, the hands, the bezel, and the sides of the case. Plus the flat sapphire crystal and the lovely, but shiny, blue bezel reflect light very strongly at the right (wrong?) angle. And the case, bezel, and crystal all show my grimy finger prints, so I’m frequently wiping the watch to keep it shiny and purdy lookin’.

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M’s black nylon sail cloth strap has blue stitching which compliments the blue bezel and seconds hand. And the strap is very comfortable due to its blue rubber underside. Again, a nice color match with the rest of the watch. The strap does not have pin holes as the deployant clasp clamps to any position you select. The release is via pressing the 2 side buttons on the clasp. It’s a very comfortable and highly functional strap and buckle combination.

Screwing off the case back reveals what TAG calls its “Caliber 5” movement. In this case, a Sellita SW 200 (an ETA 2824 clone). In my testing, this reliable workhorse automatic was accurate from -5 to +1 seconds per day (over all 6 positions). While not a formal or complete timing test, this cursory testing showed this particular TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M to be well within COSC chronometer specs. I was a little surprised to see a plastic movement holder, but it obviously is doing the job. The nicely engraved, solid screw-in case back is decorated with a diver’s helmet engraving.

Coming back to TAG Heurer’s “Don’t Crack Under Pressure” slogan, it is dead-on true in the case of Kai Lenny and his TAG Heurer Aquaracer 300M. The surfer and the watch did not crack under pressure – but a couple of his beefy “big gun” surfboards literally cracked and broke in two under the relentless pounding of Jaws.

Noted water sports photographer Tom Servais has photographed surfing greats around the world for decades. He stopped by when we were visiting the Lenny home on Maui, and he had an interesting watch story to tell. The strap failed on his TAG Heuer watch while shooting in big waves in Fiji a couple of years back. He knew where the watch went down but with the huge surf, there was no chance to go looking for it. He mentioned the lost watch to a friend of his in Fiji when he got to shore. And sure enough, the TAG was spotted 6 months later wedged in the coral exactly where Tom reported it MIA. Since the Fijians knew whose watch it was, Tom was able to get his trusty TAG Heuer watch back the next time he went to Fiji. He just cleaned it up a bit and put on a new strap. Being underwater for half a year didn’t phase it a bit.

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Urwerk UR-105 TTH ” Tantalum Hull”

The Urwerk UR-105 TTH ‘Tantalum Hull’ is the last iteration of the brand’s highly acclaimed UR-105 series. Partially housed in tantalum, a rare metal that is very difficult to machine and polish, the appearance of the material and its various attributes made it a worthy choice for Urwerk, a brand that is not afraid of tackling technical challenges.
Founded in 1997, Urwerk’s models stand out from the congested watch market thanks to the brand’s distinctive design language, playful use of materials and high-end finishing. A few years ago, the Swiss brand lent me a UR-210 model and I wore it for an extended period lasting several weeks. The horological behemoth proved comfortable to wear and its wandering hours display was highly intuitive to read.

Having marvelled at the UR-210 and noting its various attributes, I was somewhat surprised to hear the brand call a halt to production. Thereafter, it was not long before the firm released the UR-220 Falcon Project. At first glance, the watch appeared similar to the UR-210 and certainly some of its genetic code had been carried over to the newer model. However, the UR-220 Falcon Project was hand-wound, slimmer and its curving case bestowed a superior ergonomic fit.
At the heart of the company’s paradigm is an overriding desire to deliver advancement. The firm has made several different models over the years and has never been afraid to slay an existing reference in order to make way for a new addition to the Urwerk family. Furthermore, the marque has always strived to keep its model range limited in size, a trait that was recently touched upon by Felix Baumgartner. The Maison’s genius watchmaker remarked, “to continue staying true to ourselves, to remain URWERK, we make less than 150 pieces per year. This means that we reluctantly have to ‘kill’ a collection to bring a new creation to life. And time for the UR-105 CT is now running out.”

Once a model has joined the current line-up, the firm invariably releases a number of animations throughout its life. Colour, textures and materials are all subject to co-founder Martin Frei’s penchant for creative expression. Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner have employed materials from a variety of sources, some ordinarily used for aerospace or medical applications. With many large watch brands, an animation is a comparatively inexpensive step, however, for a brand like Urwerk, making approximately 150 watches per annum, selecting a different case material is incredibly expensive. Put simply, when producing small quantities of components, Urwerk won’t benefit from the same economies of scale enjoyed by a big brand that has an annual production figure running into six figures.
Now, the time has come to say goodbye to the Urwerk UR-105 TTH ‘Tantalum Hull’, a popular model that has sired many offspring. The Maison has played with a variety of materials and finishes, ingeniously creating a new look each time. Indeed, if one contrasts the UR-105TA Clockwork Orange, the UR-105CT Streamliner and the UR-105CT Maverick, they all share the same jawline but look markedly different.

The UR-105’s swansong is the Urwerk UR-105 TTH ‘Tantalum Hull’. The case combines titanium and tanatalum. This latter metal is rare, corrosion-resistant, hypoallergenic, robust and exhibits a blue-grey appearance. Certain grades of titanium are highly problematic to machine, causing tools to wear out more readily. Moreover, milling speeds have to be reduced to prevent heat damage, thereby heightening production times and inevitably costs. According to the brand, tantalum also presents many challenges to the CNC machine operator. Nevertheless, Urwerk has repeatedly demonstrated over the years that it is not afraid to confront technical obstacles in order to achieve the look or performance it seeks. The wandering hours display features a new skeleton carousel and the brand has made the seconds disc using LIGA technology.

As I look at the Urwerk UR-105 TTH ‘Tantalum Hull’, I lament its passing and I perfectly understand the reason why many horophiles will crave one of the 12 pieces available. However, based on experience, I predict there will be many more delights to come from this progressive brand.

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Urwerk UR-220 SL Asimov

Last year, one of Urwerk’s most emblematic watches, the UR-210, bid adieu. Luckily, Urwerk fans were not in mourning for long before the next-generation UR-220 Falcon Project materialised in September 2020. Retaining hallmark features of the dearly departed UR-210, the UR-220 proved to be a sleeker and slimmer vessel thanks to its carbon case and new manual-winding movement. Although some functions were abandoned, the Urwerk UR-220 SL Asimov reincorporated the signature Oil Change gauge of earlier Urwerk models. Revisited a month later in a heavier titanium and steel all-black version, Urwerk presents its third UR-220 in full carbon stealth model with enough luminescence to light up the darkest nights: introducing the Urwerk UR-220 SL Asimov.
Urwerk is famous for its out-of-this-world approach to watchmaking. Looking at URWERK’S watches means casting aside all concepts of conventional watchmaking. From the futuristic cases to the creative ways of displaying time, designer Martin Frei and master watchmaker Felix Baumgartner were convinced there had to be another way of presenting time and, since 1995, embarked on their 21st-century watchmaking odyssey.
The defunct UR-201 was an all-time favourite at MONOCHROME, a true compendium of Urwerk’s unique approach to watchmaking. Combining the brand’s satellite hour display with a lightning-fast retrograde minutes hand, the UR-210 was also equipped with a winding efficiency gauge to calculate the energy consumed and energy generated. In 2020, Urwerk launched the UR-220. Despite initial reticence to see the iconic UR-210 model laid to rest, the UR-220 is a winner. Although certain features, like the elaborately shaped case and sapphire crystal, the revolving satellite complication with wandering hours and the retrograde minutes are similar to the former model, many things have changed – for the better.
For starters, the case of the Urwerk UR-220 SL Asimov is made from 81 layers of compressed CTP carbon compressed. The hyper-resilient carbon fibre makes the watch exceptionally lightweight and comfortable to wear. The swirling concentric patterns of the carbon also highlight the dynamic contours of the case. Another feature of the UR-220 is the newly designed power reserve indicator spread across two sub-dials placed in the upper left and right-hand corners of the dial.

To reduce the height of the case, Frei and Baumgartner decided to incorporate a new manual-winding movement and discard the winding-efficiency regulator. However, in a blast from the past, they also decided to retrieve the Oil Change indicator, albeit in a different guise.
The SL suffix refers to Super-LumiNova, and the Asimov refers to sci-fi writer Isaac Asimov whose quote from Nightfall (1941) captures the light and dark polarities of the watch. Like the first UR-220 Falcon Project, the latest interpretation comes in a stealth matte black carbon case (43.8mm diameter x 53.6mm length and 14.8mm height) with a black DLC-treated caseback with sapphire crystal. Its complex shape, hollowed-out areas of the case middle and crown at 12 o’clock are hallmark Urwerk but seem tauter and tighter in the black carbon case.
Where things get different, though, is at night. The wandering hours, indicated on three rotating cubes, are not treated with luminescent material as in the past but literally made from luminescent material, to be precise Super-LumiNova Grade X1 BL. In past editions, the cubes were created on Urwerk’s CNC machines; the rotating cubes on the UR-220 SL Asimov are moulded from Super-LumiNova. The technical expertise was developed by the Swiss company RC Tritec, a specialist in phosphorescent pigments. Instead of applying Super-LuminNova to the surface, RC Tritec has developed a method to create precise luminous 3D castings in any desired shape. With a much higher concentration of luminescence, the parts store light during daylight hours and emit a more intense and longer-lasting glow.
The Urwerk UR-220 SL Asimov still relies on wandering hours displayed on the three rotating pyramid-shaped transporters and the retrograde minutes hand that flies back to the zero position in less than 0.1 of a second. As mentioned, the power reserve is indicated on two separate gauges with three lines picked out in white lume emitting a blue glow. The right-hand gauge is the first to indicate the mainspring degree of wind. Once it has reached the maximum ‘red’ level, the left-hand indicator takes over. Splitting the power reserve indication turned out to be a complex task, requiring 83 mechanical parts.
The Oil Change gauge originally found on the UR-110 and UR-203 makes a comeback and is placed on two adjacent rollers on the caseback. To trigger the device, the wearer removes a protective pin (something you might do with a hand grenade!) and presses a pusher that displays the active running time in months. After 39 months (3 years and 3 months), the watch is ready to be serviced, and Urwerk will reset the counter to zero and replace the pin.
Thanks to the incorporation of the new manual-winding calibre UR7.20, the case height of the UR-220 is reduced. Compared to the 17.8mm height of the self-winding UR-201, the UR-220 is 14.8mm thick. Developed by Urwerk, the movement has 59 jewels, a 4Hz frequency and can store up to 48 hours of power reserve.

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Jacob and Co. X CR7

Celebrating two decades of collaboration, Cristiano Ronaldo and Jacob & Co. have united for two all-new watches, under the Jacob & Co. CR7 Epic X moniker. The inaugural timepieces, which honor Ronaldo’s global football domination and the timekeeper’s affinity for elevated watchmaking, sport profoundly personalized designs of the flagship Epic X.

The first model, “Flight of CR7,” with appears in rose gold with bezels set with 26 baguette-cut diamonds, was hand-delivered to Ronaldo in Lisbon on November 17, prior to his departure for the 2022 World Cup in Qatar. The path-forging player boasts a longstanding partnership with the watch company, having met founder Jacob Arabo in his career’s infancy, 20 years ago. Since then, their relationship has blossomed into a business venture in which Jacob & Co. produces timepieces inspired by Ronaldo’s expertise and sportsmanship.

The CR7 Epic X collection champions classic watch design, with a 44 mm case, X-shaped lugs, a diamond-set bezel and a tonal crown. Brought to life by Jacob & Co.’s signature caliber, the JCAM45, the timepiece offers a skeletonized movement, with two vertical pillars depicting Ronaldo and the CR7 label. Where the “Flight of CR7” model follows a red color story, the second iteration, “Heart of CR7,” appears green, with a stainless steel construction and a bezel set with 26 baguette-cut white diamonds.

Contact Jacob & Co.’s sales team for more information regarding both timepieces on the brand’s website. Take a look at each design in the gallery above.
After 20 years of mutual respect and friendship, Ronaldo and Jacob & Co have collaborated on a watch collection that commemorates the soccer legend’s success. This one-of-a-kind partnership gives birth to the Jacob & Co X CR7 Epic X Flight of CR7 and Heart of CR7. This debut collection is set to be followed by entirely new designs.

Ahead of his departure to the 2022 Qatar FIFA World Cup, Cristiano Ronaldo personally received the first Jacob & Co X CR7 Epic X piece in Lisbon. The champion immediately started wearing his rose gold Flight of CR7 with a bezel set with 26 baguette-cut diamonds.
By now, Cristiano Ronaldo is a household name. The Portuguese soccer hero is a once-in-a-lifetime caliber of player. Ronaldo has won the prestigious Ballon D’or five times and led his birth nation to its first-ever Euro Cup in 2016. This level of excellence aligns perfectly with Jacob & Co.
The Jacob & Co X CR7 Epic X collection is a profoundly personalized version of the Epic X. It has all its identity markers: a 44 mm case with X-shaped lugs, a smooth and polished or diamond-set bezel, and a colored crown and flange. It’s powered by one of Jacob & Co’s most emblematic calibers. This skeleton movement offers striking architecture. Its two vertical pillars form the central part of the X shape initiated by the lugs, whose entire design gave the name Epic X.

In the Jacob & Co X CR7 Epic X collection, these two pillars are designed to represent Cristiano Ronaldo and the CR7 brand. The left pillar takes on the shape of Cristiano Ronaldo himself in various postures while the right one bears the CR7 logo and the man’s hand signature, both engraved in bold letters.
The skeleton barrel cover is shaped like a football. Another image of Cristiano Ronaldo himself, wearing his iconic, lucky number 7 jersey, is printed on the caseback’s tainted sapphire crystal. This first collection is based on the design of Jacob & Co’s 2022 novelty, the Epic X V2. In the upcoming months, and throughout the 5-year span of this partnership, further developments with exclusive and all-new designs will be revealed.