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IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe

People who keep a close eye on Formula 1, and in particular on 7-time world champion Lewis Hamilton might have already spotted this one, but IWC has just unveiled its latest TOP GUN family member. And it’s a big one, literally. What started in 2022 under the Colours of TOP GUN name is expanded once more with the introduction of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Lake Tahoe IW503008. And sure, the concept of a coloured Big Pilot’s Watch with a perpetual calendar display isn’t entirely new, but looks oh-so-cool in full white ceramic! The ‘Colours of TOP GUN‘ sub-genre of IWC Big Pilot QP watches comprises a few colours so far, all executed in ceramic or Ceratanium. So far, we’ve seen the classical black ceramic, but also Mojave Desert beige, Oceana Blue, Woodland Green and Lake Tahoe white. It’s no surprise what this one is called, as the 46.5mm wide and fully white ceramic case screams ‘Lake Tahoe’ from top to bottom. The all-white look is bold and daring, and definitely won’t go unnoticed when on the wrist. It’s fitted with a pressure-protected sapphire crystal front and back, and a steel diamond-shaped crown. The matte black dial shows no surprises, as it spreads all QP indications around the dial in the familiar Big Pilot’s Watch way. There’s plenty of canvas to be used, so even with all this information, it remains legible thanks to the balanced subdials, sharp contrast and large hands. The indications include the time, obviously, paired with the date, day of the week, month, year, power reserve and perpetual moon phase. All this is driven by the Calibre 52615, which we know quite well from all the previous IWC Big Pilot QP watches. Developed by Kurt Klaus in the 1980s, this large automatic movement fills the entire case and gets its energy from the large openworked central rotor. It can store a massive 168 hours, or 7 days of power reserve. The finishing includes the usual stuff, such as Côtes de Genève and perlage.

While I may be the New York City kid who has yet to get his driver’s licence, everyone else on the Time+Tide team are absolute Formula 1 fanatics. I confess I am no racing expert myself and have yet to listen to the many people imploring me to watch Drive to Survive on Netflix, but I’m certainly familiar with Lewis Hamilton. That is why it was quite surprising, or perhaps very strategic, that Lewis was provided a yet to be released watch to wear during Formula 1 Miami. With all eyes on Hamilton, and with such a huge crossover between racing and watch enthusiasts, it was inevitable that people were going to spot what was on his wrist.

While we constantly do watchspotting stories, 99% of the time these are watches that are already released. Since Miami at the beginning of May, and multiple times since, Hamilton has continually worn what appeared to be a perpetual calendar in a “Lake Tahoe” white ceramic case. This, of course, led to a ton of interest and speculation – a clear example of why ambassadorships can be so powerful. Was it a special piece just for Hamilton? Would it ever be offered to the public as well? Well, today IWC reveals that beginning next month the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe will be available for purchase.

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Hermès Carre H Watch

The Hermes Carré H is an usual square watch that has been a part of Hermès’s collection since 2010, when furniture designer Marc Berthier first created it for the company. It has a slightly curved profile that both helps it sit close to the wrist and balances it out visually. These two new models of the Carré H maintain the basic shape, though it’s been upsized to 38mm x 38mm (from 36.5mm x 36.5mm) and the grey and black dials feature cross hatch guilloché in the center that plays with the light in a really interesting way. Little pops of color on the seconds hands add some additional levity and the overall effect is at once precise and playful. Hermes Carré H has a long history of working with outside designers to create really special products (including this incredible Atmos clock designed with Jaeger-LeCoultre and this pen by Marc Newson). Berthier is a truly world-class designer, having created products with the likes of Knoll, Ligne Roset, and Thonet, not to mention having his work in the permanent collection of the MoMA in New York City. One of the signatures for this watch is the numerals, all of which are two digits, in a typeface unique to this watch.

I’m a fan of Berthier and am familiar with his work outside this Hermes Carré H watch – if you are too, you’re probably going to be into this watch. It’s studied, but doesn’t take itself too seriously, which, for me, is when Hermes Carré H is at its very best. It’s a tough line to walk, and almost nobody does it better than the Parisian luxury house. My only real complaint here is the size of the watch. While 38mm is an excellent diameter for a round watch, 38mm square is rather large, and the Carré H isn’t overly slim either. I really like the design of the dial in both colors, but for me it would work better in the original 36.5mm x 36.5mm size better.

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Hermès Slim d’Hermès watch

The Hermes Slim d’Hermes was released about three years ago in late 2015, and I’ve always held it in high regard due to its original & whimsical design, quality, and price of $7,650. The Slim d’Hermes provides so much solid value in an industry and category that seldom does so. Even so, the difference between those watches that reach truly “timeless” status and, well, everyone else lies in an enduring appeal that can transcend ephemeral trends.

So, the question here is, has the French fashion house & watchmaker done this with the Slim d’Hermes? Funny enough, it’s probably too early for me to make that call. But, three years in and I am hard pressed to find a dress watch at this price point that excels in so many aspects while having a design that doesn’t rely on being derivative. Quality in finishings, perfect proportions, and a dial that perfectly utilizes the underrated art of typography come together and result in the one dress watch I’d ever need.

The purpose of this article isn’t really to serve as a typical “review” that we do, but rather as a rundown of the piece I spent several weeks with followed by an extensive survey of the “slim dress watch” landscape across similarly priced watches and those priced somewhat lower and higher than its $7,650 price tag. I think time and distance is necessary when evaluating a simple time-only piece that contends to be a “modern classic” and that is one reason I held off for so long before reviewing the Slim d’hermes three years after its initial release.

The Hermes Slim d’Hermes was a hit when it came out in 2015, but there’s been a lot of Hermes news since that’s overshadowed this humble dress watch by now. Most notably, the relationship between Apple and Hermes is stronger than ever, with the latest Apple Watch Series 4 Hermes edition retaining its status symbol reputation. Of course, it’s a deserved, if somewhat tenuous, reputation as being the smartwatch priced at around $1,500 (that’s about a $1,000 premium over the standard Apple Watch).

The Hermes Slim d’Hermes line itself has grown, with sexier and more eye-catching models like the Quantième Perpétuel Platine which is a perpetual calendar piece priced alongside watches from brands like Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Soehne. More recently, a Slim d’Hermes GMT version was released which I haven’t gotten the chance to spend much time with yet, but being limited to 90 pieces will keep it off the wrists of most people. I’m going to venture to assume that there are more than a few people out there who want this watch but can’t get it due to this two-figure production number. Fingers crossed for a non-limited edition version of that one in steel as opposed to palladium, which pushed the price up nearly $15,000.

Hermes has very distinct watch lines that have little overlap with each other. For example, you take the Slim d’Hermes line, the square-dial Cape Cod line with its lugs and rectangular case, the square case Carre H, and something like the Arceau Chrono and you have four very diverse aesthetics for very different types of buyers.

The story of the Slim d’hermes really goes back to 2006, when Hermes acquired a 25% stake in Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. The famed movement maker is still 75% held by the Sandoz family, who are also behind Parmigiani Fleurier. The relationship extends beyond sharing movements as Hermes creates the leather straps used in Parmigiani’s watches. I go into this relationship in my piece on the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe.

The Hermes Slim d’Hermes runs on the Hermes H1950 movement, which is a modified version of the Vaucher 5401 (if you’re interested in knowing as much as possible about this movement, then read this piece by Jack Forster). This manual wind movement is used in pieces priced at less than $10,000 like the Slim D’Hermes but is also found in the Richard Mille RM 033 which retails at over $70,000. You’re not going to get the hand finishing and decorative work on the Hermes that you would on pricier pieces, but the movement itself is absolutely top notch.

The H1950 adds the seconds sub-dial to the base Vaucher movement, but that’s about it. The movement measures 30mm wide and 2.6mm thick and is obviously a necessary component for the “slim” nomenclature. Several people have assumed the movement is manual, but it has a micro-rotor which allows for automatic winding. It operates at 21,600 vph and has a 42-hour power reserve.

The movement here is arguably the most important single aspect of this watch, but it also is the cause of my single biggest complaint about the watch. First the good, though. The movement looks handsome overall and fills out the large exhibition case back. On that second point, there’s nothing sadder than an exhibition case back that only takes up something like 65% of the case back.However, I just can’t get into the repeating H pattern decorating the movement. It’s just too reminiscent of a handbag pattern that’s long since become associated with either desperate gaudiness or a knockoff. Neither of these applies even closely to the Slim D’Hermes because 1.) it’s on the case back where you can’t show off a designer name and 2.) it’s obviously real. I’d prefer if Hermes kept the design to the micro-rotor while sticking to a simple Cotes de Geneve for the rest of the movement. The repeating pattern comes off like a distraction, but one in the form of a design choice that I’d rather be distracted away from.

The case of this watch has a singular goal that justifies its entire identity and that is that it must be slim. The watch measures at 39.5mm wide and my closest estimation of its thickness lands at somewhere just around 8.2mm. That’s an impressive figure, but I think pictures speak louder than words here. The watch just works when you look at its proportions and how it wears on the wrist. It’s not claiming to be “ultra thin” or “the most (insert adjective here)” but rather an impressively slim and practical dress watch that wears its identity on its sleeve (or, uh, wrist). My wrist measures 7.5 inches in circumference, so a 39.5mm wide watch is usually on the smaller end of what I wear. That’s actually something that I took a strange pleasure in, because I realized I so often find that my peers or fellow horologically-inclined friends categorize me as someone who only wears “bigger” watches. I started to think this way too, often prejudging anything under 42mm to be “too small” and halfway writing it off before I even try it on. The thin bezel of the Slim D’Hermes makes for a watch that wears bigger than the 39.5mm wide case would lead you to believe. The lugs are short but have that distinctive look of pointing inwards at the strap. It’s such a small touch, but one that goes so far in creating the final product of the watch.

And that’s why the Hermes Slim d’Hermes is such a success. It’s an amalgamation of very subtle design-conscious choices that make for a watch that actually stands out in its category. I realize I just went through quite a lengthy list of watches, but my goal here was to really take the inventory of the comprehensive set that the Hermes Slim d’Hermes is competing with. I’m sure you can guess my final take if you read this entire article, but here it is:

There are several thin, steel dress watches out there that do certain things better than the slim d’hermes, but almost all of them fall into the same trap of being generically designed and relatively safe dress watches. Hermes smartly understood that at this budget, a buyer will want a dress watch that stands out from the pack precisely because it will likely be the only dress watch in their collection.

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Heure H watch 34 mm

Sit yourself down with a blank piece of paper and a pencil, and on the count of three, I’d like you to design a Heure H watch. Chances are you’ve drawn a slightly shaky circle before even stopping to think about it. Few man-made items are so deeply ingrained in our psyche as looking a certain way – at least, not objects as sophisticated and complex as a watch.

The strength of this association means there is enormous punch to be had in breaking those expectations: rectangular, or other geometrically adventurous watches, are a sign of individuality. At various times in history, case designers have embraced alternatives to the round case, but not one has been able to parlay the iconography of the brand itself into a watch design in the way that the Hermès Heure H does.

Of course, the letter “H” is a gift; its proportions invite a watch dial to sit between the uprights, with broad-shouldered serifs at top and bottom performing the role of lugs, to hold the strap. Designed by Mr Philippe Mouquet in 1996, it has been a mainstay of Hermès’ collection ever since.

Now, however, the Heure H watch has been released for the first time with a mechanical movement – and in the process Hermès has taken the opportunity to give it a radical change of appearance. The smaller, quartz-powered Heure H models have stuck to stainless steel or gold, with light, sunny dials. As you can see, nothing could be further from the brief here: a tone-on-tone execution of black and grey brings texture and detail to the fore.

The brushed centre of the dial contrasts with the satin-finished outer ring, and the grey transferred numerals are uncluttered by minute markers or scales of any sort, for maximum impact. Meanwhile, the 30.5mm square case is now rendered in grade five titanium, bead-blasted and satin brushed for a tactile, technical feel.

Turn the Heure H watch over and you’ll see the automatic calibre H1912, decorated with the brand’s signature tessellated pattern – another ingenious use of the letter “H”. But lest you think there is even a hint of style over substance about this movement, allow us to expand on Hermès’ horological credentials.

For more than 15 years, Hermès has been a stakeholder in one of the most interesting and highly respected movement makers in Switzerland: Manufacture Vaucher. Based in Fleurier, in the heart of the Swiss Jura valleys, it is one of the very few movement makers to even make its own hairsprings, a challenging skill for which nearly all watchmakers rely on external suppliers.

It would have been sufficient to use one of the ubiquitous large-volume movement suppliers out there, but if you know Hermès, you know it never does things by halves; everything is founded on a policy of seeking out the best artisans in their fields, and its watchmaking is no different.

The movement is usually – and justifiably – the yardstick by which most watch fans judge a new model, but the same commitment to in-house quality runs through the entire Heure H. We began by praising the execution of the watch’s case and dial, and while we don’t usually spend too much time lifting the lid on the industry’s manufacturing processes, it’s worth mentioning that both are made by Hermès’ own workshop – Les Ateliers d’Hermès Horloger, just a couple of hours’ drive north east of Vaucher Manufacture.

When you take the time to lay the proper foundations, this is what’s possible – we saw it with the H08 last year, and we see it here again now. There’s only one element of the Heure H we haven’t touched upon: the soft black Barenia leather strap. Do you really need to ask?

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Hermès Cape Cod Watch 41mm

Today we’ll discuss a collection of watches called Hermes Cape Cod. In this review, you’ll discover why the Cape Cod watch found its way into the hearts of so many.

Hermes is known around the world for their luxury leather products such as handbags, purses, wallets, and belts, their fragrances, and their luxury silk scarves. Because of this, most people don’t associate the brand with their luxury watch collections, but they should. Today we’ll be reviewing one of their larger and more popular collections; the Hemes Cape Cod.

One of the features of the Hermes Cape Cod which is most certainly worth mentioning is the case shape. Aside from the rounded rectangle-shaped case, that is. While this is the single most distinguishable feature in the design, there is a more practical shape to the case when glancing at the profile of the watch. The case back has a curvature that conforms to your wrist allowing for very comfortable wear.

Another noticeable signature feature of the Hermes Cape Cod watches from Hermes is the font used on the dials. It’s not your typical font and the rounded edge Arabic numeral style is a perfect match to the rounded rectangular case shape.

The watch depicted just above in this article is the Hermes Cape Cod TG, a medium sized ladies’ quartz model at a 29mm x 29mm case size. It uses a Double Tour strap which wraps around the wrist twice and is crafted to perfection, the kind of quality you can expect from a brand like Hermes.

While most of the watches in the Hermes Cape Cod collection are sized for a ladies’ wrist there are several men’s watches in this collection as well. A good example is the Cape Cod Automatic Large TGM which uses the Hermes manufacture H1912 automatic movement. This is the only size that has an Automatic movement. All other sizes are powered by a quartz movement.

A distinguishable feature of the mechanical Hermes Cape Code watches is the guilloche textured dials. This is a raised waffle pattern stamped in the center of the dial which looks like a miniaturized version of the tapisserie dials found on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore watches.  These double wraparound watch straps became a growing trend with Hermes, and they can be found in several collections such as the Hermes Kelly watch collection, the H Hour collection the Cape Cod Tonneau watch series and of course, the Cape Cod watch collection that we’re reviewing here.

Hermès has already proven that they are capable of producing in-house movements. Some great examples would be the Hermès caliber H1912 which can be found in the Hermes Carré H series and the Hermes H1925 caliber found in the Hermes Arceau Squelette Automatic TGM series.

The dials in the Hermes Cape Cod Collection vary depending on the subseries. While the automatic model depicted above features a square-shaped textured guilloche dial located in the center with the printed second’s track displayed in an inner chapter ring, this is rare as most watches in this collection have a smooth and clean dial color. Some of the higher end ladies’ models have a lovely mother of pearl dial and many models feature diamond hour markers and diamond paved cases.

In terms of straps and watch bands, the Hermes Cape Cod collection offers many types of straps using several different materials such as calfskin leather to alligator leather and even a few models with stainless steel mesh bracelets.

Time and time again Hermes demonstrated their ability to design and produce some inventive and very stylish watches and possibly with the best leather straps you can get. A replacement “Double Tour” Hermes watch strap, like the one depicted on this watch, would cost about $450.

As with many of Hermes’ leather products, the watches that are fitted with their leather straps often have tasteful vibrant colors such as royal blue, magenta, teal, violet, orange, yellow and a soft pale pink, while many other watches have more conservative hues on their straps such as black and brown and even a dark blue.

In summary, this is a very special collection of watches with something for just about anyone. Click below to browse the entire collection.

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Hermès Arceau Watch

The Hermès Arceau 78 is an interesting watch that it isn’t easy to position in the universe of luxury watches. The dial says Hermès on it, which on its own would classify it no higher than “Fashion Brand’s Luxury Watch Attempt No. 24392.” However, fans of Hermès — and watch industry insider trivia — will know that the company has invested tens of millions of Swiss francs in its movement-, case- and dial-making facilities, and so the Hermès Arceau 78 reference W047360WW00 actually is an entry-level, yet uniquely styled, watch from a company that has, since 1929, loved its watches.

Humor me a personal note — or just skip it, if you wish. I am sharing only because I feel a large number of watch-lovers might approach Hermès similarly to how I do. You see, I do not dislike the brand, but I am certainly not a wired-up fan of Hermès watches either. In the way of communication, design, and openness, the company has not yet done much to convince me, as a watch-lover, to investigate it more closely. Outside its artistic, high-end watches (like the fantastic Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune), Hermès watch designs, though stirrup-inspired, have not stirred me up in a world where there are hundreds upon thousands of watches begging for attention. Now that I am covering the Hermès Arceau 78, I do very much take the task seriously, and that has naturally resulted in my taking a closer look — and I am glad I did.

Hermès launched the asymmetrical Arceau back in 1978, when Jean-Louis Dumas succeeded his father as head of the family-owned firm, immediately creating the new subsidiary of La Montre Hermès, in Biel, Switzerland. The goal with the original, quartz-powered, competitively priced Arceau was to create an affordable timepiece to attract a younger clientele worldwide and to gain traction in quartz-watch-crazed Japan. The strategy worked, and although between 2006 and 2012 Hermès had purchased a 25% stake in Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, a 32% stake in case-maker Joseph Erard Holding (a long-term supplier of Hermès) and the Swiss dial-maker Natéber in its entirety (that’s a lot of money invested into watchmaking pedigree), the Arceau 78 remains a competitively priced quartz timepiece. Competitively priced and quartz-powered does not equal an absence of Hermès DNA. The Arceau has, for over 40 years, been part of Hermès and, indeed, watchmaking in general: with its distinctly unbalanced, stirrup-shaped case, with long, arched lugs on top, and stubby, curved ones below, it is very much an Hermès accessory that happens to tells time. It isn’t without its horological merits, though. The case itself is polished stainless steel, while the perfectly round and curved bezel is in micro-blasted titanium. The difference in color, texture, and proportions between the flashy steel and the rugged titanium indicates Hermès is willing to go the extra mile — the absolute majority of fashion companies would have (and indeed they do) clad their watches in all-polished steel, hoping that the brand name and some minor design tweaks will carry the watch. I applaud Hermès for having access to its own case manufacturer and utilizing this access to create something that is, in its shape and combination of materials, unique. Hermès calls this 40mm-wide Arceau 78 a “very large model” — which reminds me a lot of Cartier’s inconsistent classifications for its watch sizes. Established fashion brands struggle with consistency when it comes to sizing their shirts and jeans — so how about not messing up watch sizing as well? What I do appreciate is how, on the official product page, Hermès bluntly notes the following: wrist circumference: 6.3″ – 7.3.” Not even Rolex or Omega does that. What we are missing, though, is a note on case thickness, which is a pity, as that figure would certainly be something to be proud of. Still, our quickly snapped hands-on images from SIHH help indicate how impressively thin the Hermès Arceau 78 is — yet again highlighting the fact that quartz-equipped, two-hand watches truly need not be thick at all. The domed, AR-coated sapphire crystal is a very nice touch, as it curves upwards and away from its titanium frame. Very nicely done, and so is the finishing on the rather complex lugs and case profiles. I have seen worse hands and cases and a whole lot worse crowns on much more expensive watches from much more renowned “manufactures,” which is quite ironic — in line with what the Swiss watch industry has been, lately. As more big names, rumor has it, are moving a lot of their manufacturing “overseas” when it comes to the cases, bracelets, and dials for their cheaper watches, here we have a “fashion brand,” Hermès, showing that high quality, Swiss-made components can, indeed, be used throughout a watch for around three grand. No caseback shots this time, as the SIHH piece we looked at had some additional markings that covered the view — but expect to see an embossed, solid caseback covering up the Swiss-made quartz movement. The grained, dark gray dial features Hermès’ traditional skewed Arabic numerals and thin, leaf-style hands with some lume thrown in there for good measure. The date window is small and difficult to read — we’ll have to trust Hermès that it knows its customers need a date window on their watches. I just wish it had its sides skewed a bit to go with the indices, or that the cutout was round — but, really, I’d rather just see it gone altogether, and while I’m at it, the Hermès Paris logo could certainly be moved a bit further down. The Hermès Arceau 78 comes on a “long, single-tour strap in natural barenia calfskin” — a description a large portion of which will only make sense to avid Hermès fans. For the rest of us, it’s going to be a supple leather strap on a tang buckle. Although the quality is there, I feel the overall design of the watch head leaves lots of opportunity for the use of some rather more bonkers straps to be used — other strap choices would only enliven this piece, and I’d recommend considering other options. If the absence of a mechanical movement is the dealbreaker for some, worry not, as Hermès has its own proprietary calibers it assembles from parts it obtains from Vaucher (and probably its two sister companies, the much lesser-known, but equally important, specialized watch movement component maker Atokalpa and Elwin).

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hermes h08 watch for men

In 2021, French Hermes debuted a new watch collection known as the Hermes H08 watch for men . The H08 was conceived by Hermes’ creative director Philippe Delhotal and featured a sporty look, an interesting cushion-style case, and a comfortable everyday wearing style. For 2023, Hermes revisits the still-fresh Hermes H08 watch for men with a series of new models that feature new materials and a tweaked look. In this article, I will focus on the Hermes H08 “Colors,” which include four new models accented in either blue, green, orange, or yellow.
The new models keep the 39mm x 39mm case size proportions but are lighter in weight and also sportier thanks to the use of a glass fiber composite case material, as well as a polished black ceramic bezel material. The composite case material was mostly chosen for its aesthetic given its interesting surface texture. Hermes explains that the glass fiber material is also coated with aluminum and slate powder. This likely enhanced the coloring of the grooves in the material, creating a more dramatic sense of color and an eye-pleasing organic texture. While composite materials are now commonly used in luxury watches, the formulation and style of these materials can vary greatly. Here, Hermes has adopted not only an attractive type of composite material but, for now, one that is also unique to its products.
The watch case itself is water resistant to 100 meters and has a flat AR-coated sapphire crystal over the dial. The crown is produced in matching black ceramic to complement the bezel material. Hermes maintains a playful but highly legible dial that uses the “revolving” style of hour markers similar to other Hermes models of the past. Special emphasis is placed on making the dial look instrumental, including the legible inner track for the hour markers and the idea proportions for the hands. Note how the date indicator is elegantly positioned so as not to break up the flow and symmetry of the hour markers. This is Hermes showing off that it can make not just a good-looking luxury watch, but a good-looking luxury tool watch. For me, a natural competitor would be something like the Patek Philippe Aquanaut — only the Hermes (while certainly not cheap) is worlds more affordable.

Color accents find their way on the Hermes H08 watch for men dials, as well as for a ring around the periphery of the face. Most of the color is found on the included 21mm-wide textured rubber strap, which is very comfortable and has a titanium folding clasp. On the rear of the watch is a smoked sapphire crystal that allows for a view of the automatic movement inside the watch. The movement is Hermes’ “in-house” caliber H1837 which is produced in Switzerland by Vaucher. The movement is rather thin at 3.7mm-thick, and operates at 4Hz with about 50 hours of power reserve. As you can see, the aBlogtoWatch team enjoyed wearing these fun watches when we met with Hermes at Watches & Wonders 2023 where the new H08 watches were being debuted. Hermes produces less expensive versions of the H08, but the H08 “Colors” are the entry-level models that debuted this year. Other new H08 pieces include the H08 Chronograph, as well as a version of the H08 that matches the style of these new Colors models but with an 18k rose gold (versus glass fiber composite-cased) and a black ceramic bezel. aBlogtoWatch will cover these new pieces in separate articles.
Just a few years ago, it was a challenge to get traditional watch enthusiasts excited about otherwise fantastic watches produced by luxury fashion houses such as Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, etc. I never felt that these timepieces deserved any less fanfare than those from “watch houses,” but there was a strange prejudice from the often conservative collector community because these “fashion maison” companies seemed to primarily market their women’s goods. I am proud to say that the perception has finally changed. Gone are the days when such statements as “That’s not a real watch brand” are common, and more often than not, watch collectors are just as enthused about these watches as they are from traditional watchmakers. That’s a good thing because companies like Hermes not only use the same manufacturing and movements as those from “traditional watchmakers” but also often boast far more beautiful and contemporary designs. The Hermes H08 watch for men pieces aren’t for everyone, but these are excellent and comfortable watches that mix traditional utility with a beautiful design and focus on trendy materials and style.

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Panerai Luminor Due 42 Automatic Yellow Gold Green

Just opened at the prime location of New York’s Madison Avenue, Casa Panerai is the luxury watchmaker’s largest boutique to date, and home to an extensive collection of new and classic time-tellers. In celebrating the opening, Panerai also premiered the Panerai Radiomir Tourbillon Bronzo , as well as a special Luminor BiTempo New York Edition.

The Panerai Radiomir Tourbillon Bronzo is Panerai’s first-over tourbillon to arrive in a 45mm case size and is possibly the main centerpiece for the new boutique. It’s set in a bronze case, that gradually exudes even more retro charm and vintage appeal through time, oxidation, and wear. In line with its overall aesthetic, the watch is paired with a dark brown calf leather strap with contrasting top-stitches. At the heart and on the face of the time-teller, the P.2015/T calibre can be observed as it powers the piece for up to four days. Meanwhile, the dial pits a luscious deep green with bronze-hued numerals, hour markers, and lume-filled hands for a contrasting, yet complementing effect.

A dedicated timepiece for the occasion, the Panerai Luminor BiTempo New York Edition is offered in a limited run of 212 pieces. The 44mm titanium DLC case comes equipped with Luminor’s hallmarked sandwich dial in an understated gray, matte, and shaded finish. Sleek, sophisticated, and durable, the watch is also bestowed with a three-day power reserve, and 30 bar water resistance via the automatic P9010/GMT calibre it houses. Accompanying the stealthy timepiece is a matching gray strap composed of recycled PET.

Take a closer look at the aforementioned timepieces, as well as the newly-unveiled Casa Panerai boutique in the gallery above. To find out about the two watches’ price points and availability, check them out in person at the boutique, or keep an eye out on Panerai’s Instagram and official website for updates.
Panerai has just unveiled its new Panerai Luminor BiTempo New York collection comprising three 38mm references. Exhibiting effortless elegance and urban appeal, the range is designed to go with the everyday wardrobe of city dwellers.

For the first time ever, the Maison debuts pastel-colored dials for the collection, arriving in light blue, green, and powdery pink. The sandwich dial is filled with white Super-Luminova and is shaded with double-finishing polish for a luminous and gradient effect. Embellishing the dial are the brand’s classic Arabic numerals at the 12 and 6 o’clock marks, small seconds subdial, small date display, lume-filled applied hands, and a subtle Panerai inscription.

Set in a polished, stainless steel case with a matching metal bracelet, each watch is implemented with the Maison’s distinctive semi-oval crown-protection device, which comes with a safety-lock system. As for movement, the new Luminor Due is powered by the P.900 automatic calibre, complete with a three-day power reserve and 5 ATM water resistance.

Limited to 500 pieces per colorway per year, the Luminor Due collection is only available via Panerai’s boutique-exclusive program. Visit the brand’s official website to inquire about its price point, availability, and how to purchase.

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IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX

Earlier this year, IWC quietly dropped the new IWC Mark XX. No press release, fanfare, or announcement. Honestly, it was kind of refreshing – in a world where brands often seem to shout from the mountaintop about every little tweak made, it felt almost anachronistic for a brand to just throw a new watch on its website, waiting for us to pick up on it.

Well, pick up on it we did, and pretty quickly. For such a simple watch, the IWC Mark Series has always invited as many opinions as there are people, and that’s fair enough for what’s one of the most classic, accessible model lines around. After World War II, IWC (and for a short time, Jaeger-LeCoultre) started producing the Mark XI as a simple, no-nonsense pilot’s watch for the British Ministry of Defense powered by IWC’s vaunted caliber 89. Towards the end of the Mark XI’s run, IWC also produced some for commercial sale. Soon after the discontinuation of the Mark XI, IWC continued the model line with the Mark XII, then the Mark XV, and so on (they skipped 13 and 14 since they’re considered unlucky in parts of the world, so we’ll go easy on them for skipping 19 this time around).
Since we introduced the IWC Mark XX back in July, the brand has filled out the collection to include a total of six variants: three dial colors – matte black, sunburst blue, and sunburst green – with or without a bracelet. I went hands-on with the black and green on a bracelet, alongside the Mark XVIII (and my own Mark XII), and we were able to capture photos of the blue dial on a strap (the photos you see in this article).

Let’s start with the aesthetics of the new IWC Mark XX. Like the Mark XVIII, the Mark XX has a 40mm diameter, but it has a lug-to-lug of 49mm, about 2mm shorter than the XVIII, making for a better-proportioned watch. While the Mark XVIII was on the brink of being too big as an everyday watch (for me), this tweak pushes the Mark XX firmly into “yep, I could wear this every day without really thinking about it” territory.
As with the case, there are some changes to the dial that make it more balanced. Let’s start where I know the opinions will: The date window. I haven’t set a date window since…well, I guess I can’t tell if I haven’t set the date now, can I? But while I might prefer a watch without a date window – I’ve read enough early Hodinkee articles to have been properly brainwashed – it’s never stopped me from buying a great watch that happens to have a date window (more on my love of the properly date-windowed Mark XII below). Since it’s all relative: The Mark XX has a better-executed date window than the Mark XVII. Basically accepting that the Mark Series has to have a date window nowadays for some combination of mostly commercial reasons, the Mark XX’s is pretty good.
IWC, known for its immediately identifiable Pilot’s Watch line, has very subtly released a brand new addition to its Mark collection – which takes inspiration from the original Mark XI. This is the Mark XX, the apparent successor to the IWC Mark XVIII (though we never did get that Mark XIX). This new watch is an improvement in several ways over the XVIII. At a quick glance, you might think you’re seeing the same watch. Look again. IWC has addressed the design and legibility of the dial (including the date window), as well as the capability of both the case and movement.

It measures the same 40mm in diameter as the former model (which is still available from IWC) and has the same identifiable matte black dial and stark white legible numerals. The first change is located right at three o’clock. That’s where the date window has been redesigned from almost hidden black-on-black, to a now white background. This keeps the overall symmetry consistent with the white numerals.

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IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Black Aces

IWC launched a new Spitfire squadron in its collection of pilots’ watches at that debuted in 2019. A self-winding movement from the new 32000 family of manufacture calibers debuts inside the case of the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Black Aces. We tested one in this feature from the WatchTime archives, with original photos by Olaf Köster.

“Haven’t I seen this watch somewhere before?” You might be thinking this when you first set eyes on the classic IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Black Aces. And you wouldn’t be mistaken because its design is inspired by the legendary Mark 11 from 1948.

In the late 1940s, IWC responded to an invitation from the British government by developing a special wristwatch for Royal Air Force pilots. Production began in 1948 and the first timepieces were developed in November 1949. The model remained in airborne service until 1981. It encased IWC’s equally popular hand-wound Caliber 89, which has a soft iron inner case to protect it against the adverse influences of magnetic fields. The boldly designed dial is clearly legible by day and by night. The Mark XII with automatic movement and date followed, but connoisseurs had to wait until 1994 before it finally debuted.

The name “Spitfire” first appeared at the turn of the millennium with a limited series of 1,000 watches. IWC began manufacturing a series of pilots’ watches named after the legendary aircraft in 2003. With its pale dial, it was regarded as “the more elegant Mark,” but it was somewhat overshadowed by the 14th incarnation of the classic pilots’ watch, which was named Mark XV. Ten years later, the old Spitfire – now a large pilots’ watch with perpetual calendar and a dark dial – approached the classic Mark line, but inconspicuously disappeared under its wearer’s shirt cuff as an elegant three-handed watch with a pale dial. After the Mark XVIII of 2016 and the Big Pilot’s Watch Spitfire of the same year, which were virtually indistinguishable, a symbiosis of the two seems almost logical, while the Mark leaves quietly. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Black Aces Mark XVIII can still be found in IWC’s digital catalogs, but only as the edition “Le Petit Prince.”

Caliber 79320 (based on ETA Valjoux 7750) is now ticking inside Le Petit Prince, which sells for $5,250. The new Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire is equipped with new manufacture Caliber 32110. IWC presents two versions: our tested watch with stainless-steel case, black dial and green textile strap for $4,350; and a version with a bronze case, green dial and dark brown calfskin strap for $4,900. These are not only the base models in the Spitfire collection, but they also embody the entry-level timepieces leading into the world of the IWC manufacture. The matte stainless-steel case with its narrow, steep bezel and massive screw-in back has a moderate diameter of 39 mm and is therefore one mm smaller than the case of the Mark XVIII. The height is 10.86 mm, which gives it a sporty look and is also an appropriate thickness for a classic pilots’ watch. Manufacture Caliber 32110 contributes to the case’s height: the movement is 4.2 mm thick. Its diameter is 28.2 mm. Furthermore, Caliber 32110 is equipped with increased protection against magnetic fields thanks to a soft iron inner case and an additional inner back, a detail that was already included in the Mark 11.

My first thought upon receiving this watch for review and double checking its price was that the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire is a very nice value, almost to the point that I considered shifting gears and writing this post as a Value Proposition, because I think it could certainly be covered from that angle. It makes me very happy to write that, because it takes me back to a time early in my watch journalism career, in the mid-2000s, when one of the qualities I most often associated with IWC was value for money. After all, IWC is the brand that gave the watch world its first affordable splits-second chronograph and an affordable-ish grand complication. The no-nonsense IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Black Aces tool-watch style that was there from the early days feels especially present in this product. As configured here, the Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire costs just $4,450, and for that you get a whole heck of a lot.