Category: Hermès Watches

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Hermès Arceau TGM Manufacture

Hermès Arceau TGM Manufacture has been on a pretty strong roll the last few years, introducing both new movements and new watches, most of which have been extremely strong. From the basic Slim d’Hermès to the perpetual calendar Slim to the more romantic complications, there’s been a lot to enjoy from the famed Parisian luxury house. And with this latest introduction, Hermès shows no signs of slowing down.

The pair of Hermès Arceau TGM Manufacture watches we have here are two variations of the Arceau Très Grand Modèle. The name really says it all here. We have the classic Arceau, which was first designed for Hermès by Henri d’Origny back in 1991, only in a “very large” (or très grand in French) size. The defining features of the Arceau are the swooping numerals, which curve as they go around the dial, adding some dynamism to the mix, and those semi-wire lugs that curve out from the round, slim-bezeled case. Both are intact here, and the new models look every bit the part of classic Arceau models, just with different colors and finishes. The first new Arceau Très Grand Modèle has a 40mm steel case paired with an elegant hazelnut brown dial. The dial features a stamped chevron pattern in the center and a sunburst finish on the chapter ring, which in turn has applied gold Arabic numerals in the classic Arceau style. The contrasting patterns make the dial look two-tone even though the color is even throughout. There’s a matching date window down at six o’clock, otherwise we have a simple two-hand layout here. The strap is a matching etoupe matte alligator Hermès strap that works perfectly with the rest of the watch.

Inside is the caliber H1837, which Hermès Arceau TGM Manufacture is the standard in-house automatic movement from Hermès. It has a full rotor (unlike the micro-rotor movement that powers the Slim d’Hermès watches) and is comprised of 193 total components. The power reserve is a reasonable 50 hours and the decoration is a mix of more traditional finishes and the signature Hermès H motif.
The other model introduced here starts with the same steel case, but utilizes a blue lacquered dial with an even sunburst finish and silvered Arabic numerals around the outer edge. Again, there’s a matching “Abyss blue” matte alligator strap and a date window that matches with the dial too.

The biggest difference with this model though is inside – there’s a Swiss quartz movement powering this Hermès Arceau TGM Manufacture watch instead of the mechanical H1837. While I understand Hermès wanting to hit multiple price points, it would have been nice to see both colors available with both movements – this blue dial with a mechanical movement would be quite the show stopper.

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Hermes Arceau Squelette

Hermes Arceau Squelette timepiece, designed by its longtime artistic director Henri d’Origny in 1978, is perhaps the watch that best expresses the brand’s historical roots as a saddle maker: its asymmetrical lugs are shaped like stirrups and the sloping font of it hour numerals evoke the silhouettes of galloping horses. This year, Hermès unveils a new edition of the Arceau that also elegantly demonstrates the maison’s watchmaking expertise: the Arceau Squelette. The Arceau Squelette’s rounded, 40-mm steel case houses a skeletonized self-winding movement and frames a smoked, sapphire dial through which that mechanism can be glimpsed. The Hermes Arceau Squelette dial is deep black on its outer edges, gradating to a transparent center, and features a beaded minute circle and silvered, openworked numerals in the signature Arceau style. Visible beneath the slim, lance-shaped hour and minute hands are the movement’s bridges, its wheels with anthracite treatment, and its openworked oscillating weight. The Hermès Arceau Squelette is attached via its hallmark stirrup lugs to a matte-black alligator leather strap from Hermès’s own atelier and fastens to the wrist with a steel pin buckle. It is priced at $8,600 and available via the Hermès website as well as authorized dealers.
The Hermes Arceau Squelette is one of the company’s older watch designs, going back to 1978, but the execution we have here is something entirely new. The classic form has been fitted with a skeletonized movement and a smoked black sapphire dial to show off the new caliber. The rest of the package is pretty familiar – 40mm stainless-steel case, the distinctive swirling numerals, and, of course, a killer Hermès strap (in your choice of a few colors) finishing things off. Some people knock watchmakers for “variations,” but this is very much a case of, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”

Those few design changes do make a big difference, though. To me, the Hermes Arceau Squelette has always had a certain crispness about it, with the lithe hands, the fine lines of the numerals, and the clean shape of the case. This watch still has those things, but the multi-layer effect of the crystal, gradient-smoked sapphire dial, and open movement underneath adds a bit of cloudiness and extra depth. The watch has a totally new dimension. It’s making its way into Hermès boutiques now, and while it’s not a limited edition, production is limited on the new model.

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Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune

Continuing its tradition of creating watches that combine interesting mechanics with whimsical ideas, Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune has released one of the coolest moonphase watches I’ve ever seen. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune presents a pair of stationary mother-of-pearl moons with a complementary pair of floating lacquer dials floating over the top that rotate around the dial once every 59 days, covering and uncovering the moons to to indicate the current moon phase in both the southern and northern hemispheres at once. One of the floating dials shows the hours and minutes, while the other counts the date. Hermès has further amplified the dreamy effect by inverting the moons, with the the top one showing the southern hemisphere and the lower one the northern hemisphere. Finally, the moons show different designs, with the lower moon featuring a transfer of the luner surface on top and the upper moon baring a subtle pegasus motif by artist and designer Dimitri Rybaltchenko (a work he calls “Pleine Lune” or “Full Moon”). You have a choice of two executions, one with a meteorite dial and graduated grey lacquered discs and the other with an aventurine dial and white lacquered discs – both utilize the same 43mm white gold Arceau case. Each version is limited to 100 numbered pieces.

You’re probably wondering at this point how this unusual complication works. Inside is an Hermès caliber H1837 movement fitting with a module called the “Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune” that was designed specifically to create this display. The module alone requires over 100 components and is 38mm across (which is the resulting “wingspan” of the rotating discs), and there is currently a patent pending for the mechanism. I’ll admit it: I actually let out an audible “Whoa!” when this one landed in my inbox. I’m already a big fan of what Hermès does, on both the more classic side and the more idiosyncratic side, and this one does not disappoint at all. If you told me about this Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune watch or only handed me a spec sheet, I think I’d probably assume the watch to be a little too over-the-top despite the fun idea, however Hermès has executed an already great idea with great skill too, resulting in a watch that’s beautiful in both concept and form. There’s the natural beauty of the meteorite, aventurine, and mother of pearl, sure, but I think it’s the way the various colors and textures interact that makes this one really sing – it’s all about subtle contrasts and mirrored forms. I’m not sure which of the two I prefer – I keep going back and forth – but if you asked me today I’d have to go with the meteorite version. The fact that the watch looks just a little bit different each day you wear it is awesome and I enjoy the idea of a dramatic but slow complication.

To come back down to Earth for a minute (get it?), a 43mm white gold Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune watch is probably a little more than my relatively small wrist can handle, and the Arceau L’Heure De La Lune is a lot of look to sport every day too, but that doesn’t make me wish I could rock one of these any less. Now if there were only a desk clock version I might be in business…

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Hermès Arceau Cheval Cosmique

I love art in all its forms Hermès Arceau Cheval Cosmique, be it musical, movement, pictures, or prose. Many think of art in the more traditional formats like paintings, drawings, sculptures, photographs, film, and possibly textiles. But art surrounds us in forms and mediums as diverse as grand architecture, beautiful sonnets, and live performances. And what’s more, art is understandable by specific principles using defined elements allowing for the creation of every possible piece of art imaginable.

One might think definitions and principles would fundamentally limit art, but they are not what you use to make art (even though you inherently do); they are what we use to dissect what the art is, regardless of the form it exists. It’s possible that you can create art that breaks every rule of design and composition, and yet we can still analyze it using the principles and elements of design.

That is because everything we can create will relate in some way: the principles and elements of design are based on how we humans sense and understand the world around us. Therefore, depending on who you are and what you have experienced in your life, you may fundamentally connect to certain elements and principles of design more than others.

I appreciate patterns (thanks to my primate brain) and contrast, both of which are principles of design, and the use of shape and line to create textures, elements of design.

This Hermès Arceau Cheval Cosmique also means that I am often drawn to bold patterns mixed and matched with subtle elements and details drawing attention to contrast. Perennial favorites include repeating patterns of lines juxtaposed with natural shapes. Think geometric architecture jutting out of the side of a rolling, grass-covered hill. This also results in a fondness for graphic design, logos, and graphical elements in traditional places.

And that brings me to Hermès, the Arceau, and Gianpaolo Pagni.

Design nerd side note: the elements of design include line, shape, form, color, texture, space, and value, together making up the “tools” of an artist, the objects that can be used to create art. The Principles of Design include pattern, contrast, emphasis, balance, scale, harmony, and movement, together making up the “methods” of using the “tools” to create art. Some sources separate principles or elements into more distinct categories, but they still cover the same results. One that is mentioned specifically in non-static art (i.e., film, music, theater, literature, performance art) is time, which can be used both as an element or a principle of design. As more art becomes multimedia-based, time is referenced more often.

Pagni is an Italian born printmaker, illustrator, and artist who has been professionally active in Paris since at least 1993. Specializing in geometric patterns, primary colors, and an emphasis on pure shape, Pagni has created a wide array of works that help to distinguish his work as distinctly his own. He first began working with Hermès in 2011 designing prints for scarves, which translated into shawls, blankets, twillys, and other accessories highlighting Pagni’s unique penchant for patterns.

One key aspect of his work is how Pagni creates hand stamps, which he uses to create repetition with shapes, lines, and colors. Across his career, specific patterns have become frequent visitors to his works, sort of like subtle signatures of the artist’s creative mind. One of these patterns is concentric arced lines, often used to create incredibly striking, undulating squiggle patterns.

Searching through many of his past works, the first evidence of this specific pattern is found illustrated in his print book La Pasta from 2003. The entry for linguine depicts the origins of this pattern, which has evolved over the years as Pagni created different stamps for variations and alternate uses.

The most replicated version is in his book Everybody Loves Somebody . . . And Nobody from 2015. This pattern was also coincidentally first seen on an Hermès scarf in 2013, though in a less undulating manner than seen later. That playful use of the pattern eventually found its way back to Hermès when Pagni designed an illustration dubbed Cheval Cosmique (“cosmic horse” in French), which has been featured on a scarf, blanket, hand-painted tray, and now a watch (you might have seen that coming).

The Hermès Arceau Cheval Cosmique silhouetted trotting horse, by the way, is said to be based on one from Émile Hermès’ private collection.
But the fun and creativity that comes from Hermès, its collaborations with artists, and its willingness to combine fine craftsmanship (something very important to me as a maker) with all sorts of inspirations gives me the impression that the brand has a sense of humility with its work, wanting to play and create interesting things without taking itself too seriously.

I’m excited to see more creativity from Hermès and its design collaborators, and if things go we’ll find more examples of bold patterns with high-contrast juxtaposed with the gentler beauty in so many things. If the relationship with Gianpaolo Pagni to create the incredible Arceau Cheval Cosmique is any indication, I’m bound to be hypnotized again before I know it.

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Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel

Hermès presents a new Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel watch. Featuring a slender case, it incorporates a much appreciated horological mechanism.

The ultra-thin Manufacture H1950 with perpetual calendar complication ensures that the date of months with 30 and 31 days is automatically adjusted, while taking account of leap years by indicating February 29th every four years without any need for corrections. Adorned with a ‘sprinkling of Hs’ and meticulously hand-bevelled, the movement also powers day/ night, dual-time and moon-phase indications within a composition measuring just 4 mm thick. This intricate self-winding mechanical calibre may be admired through the sapphire crystal case-back.

The numerals with their font specially designed by Philippe Apeloig stand out with light and airy grace. While the date, month, dual-time and leap year indications are displayed on various counters, a mother-of-pearl moon phase graces an aventurine sky backdrop at 3 o’clock. The elegant and graphic dial perfectly harmonizes with the rose gold and titanium or titanium and platinum case. The new Slim Quantième Perpétuel watch from Hermès unites the full spectrum of watchmaking skills, like the expertise in crafting mechanical complications and the proficiency of case and dial-making artisans. The matt graphite alligator strap reflects impeccable leather craftsmanship.
Yes, we have our very first Baselworld pre-release coming to you a few days before SIHH, but trust me it’s a good one. Hermès is unveiling an updated version of the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel, this time in Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel watch platinum with deep blue dial. This one looks like it’s going to be good.

You may remember the Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel watch from when it was released two years ago or when we did this in-depth review of the time-only Slim d’Hermès. It was quite a hit with us (and many of you), so we are really excited that the French luxury house is continuing to develop the collection, bringing us the Slim d’Hermès QP in an updated configuration. Originally it was only available in rose gold with a silvered dial and the new edition offers a massive contrast with a platinum case and dark blue dial. The watch is powered by the in-house caliber H1950, which is an automatic ultra-thin movement (wound by a micro-rotor!). This is the same impressive movement used in the previous edition, and it shows the date in the top sub-dial, the month and leap year cycle on the left, and the moonphase on the right, with a second timezone hour indicator with day/night functionality tucked down at six o’clock. The detail on the moonphase is incredible, with the mother-of-pearl moon set against the aventurine glass sky. It’s a small touch, but an important one. The new platinum case measures 39.5mm in diameter, again like the edition before. The Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel watch slim hands stand out nicely against the blue dial, as far as we can tell from photos, but this is clearly a watch you have to see in person to truly appreciate. You can be sure we’ll have live photos and a full report on this one for you as quickly as we possibly can.

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Hermès Arceau L’heure de la lune “New York”

The Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune has quite a few fans at HODINKEE, including Stephen Pulvirent and myself, and if you spend a little time with the watch and have anything like a romantic streak, you will probably find it quite captivating as well. The moon-phase complication in any form always has a whiff of the whimsical and pleasantly otherworldly about it, and the version of the complication used by Hermès is no exception. We’ve covered the complication, which was designed for Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune by Jean-François Mojon (the founder of complications specialist Chronode SA), in-depth in our previous coverage, but a quick review is probably in order. The basis of the complication is a satellite system with two dials mounted on the opposed arms of a carrier; the carrier rotates clockwise once every 59 days. The dials are geared from underneath so that they stay “right side up” as they rotate (the 12 on the dial for the time is always at the top, in other words). The movement is the same as in previous versions of the watch, of course – the caliber H1837, on a Vaucher base, running in 28 jewels at 28,800 vph. As we’ve seen in earlier versions of the watch, the two Moon disks are labeled Nord and Sud (north and south) as each represents the Moon as seen from the northern and southern hemispheres. The Sud disk, rather counterintuitively, is up top (north conventionally is at the top of most maps), but the reason for this is that to an observer in the southern hemisphere, it is the leftmost side of the Moon which falls into shadow first after a full Moon, and vice versa in the northern hemisphere. The special and unusual feature of this version of the L’Heure De La Lune is the dial. This isn’t the first time this model has gotten a meteorite dial, but the specific meteorite used for this dial is the so-called “New York” meteorite, of which Hermès says, “The Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune New York meteorite was originally discovered by a fishing boat, purely by chance. The captain sold it in 1965 to a private individual in New York harbour and it fell into oblivion for several decades. In 2008, meteorite hunter Luc Labenne was contacted by Mark Grubb, son of the man who had bought the meteorite in 1965. Mr. Labenne decided to purchase the meteorite, which weighed 2.95 kg at the time. He had it analyzed and officially declared it. It was subsequently acquired by Hermès and used for this limited edition piece.” The meteorite in question, when cut, exhibits a cross-hatched pattern of very large iron-nickel crystals which form what is called a Widmannstätten pattern (named for Count Alois von Beckh Widmannstätten, who described the pattern in 1808. As an aside, some people also call it a Thomson pattern, for the English scientist William Thomson, who discovered the same pattern four years earlier after treating sections of iron-nickel meteorites with nitric acid to remove surface oxidation). The pattern can only be formed when an iron-nickel meteorite has slowly cooled, over a period of millions of years, and as they cannot be duplicated in a lab, or industrially, the crystals and the patterns they form are definite proof of the extraterrestrial origin of the material. The Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune 43mm case is platinum (you might recall we took a close look at the origin and properties of platinum not long ago) which is a sufficiently heavy element that it is thought to be formed only in very powerful hypernova stellar collapses, or in the collision of neutron stars, so you’re getting some additional celestial bang for the buck in the case material as well. This will be a limited edition timepiece, consisting of 16 pieces, and priced at $69,950. As I said at the outset, I’m a big fan of these watches. They have all the elegance you could want from something from Hermès, and the execution of the moon-phase complication gives a sense of drama, coupled with serenity of the evolutions of motion of the heavenly bodies, not easily found elsewhere. That, coupled with a dial which underwent a journey of untold eons through the vast and silent darkness of interplanetary space, and a case made of a metal born in some of the most violent events in the known universe, makes for a watch that seems to reach up from your wrist for the stars themselves.

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Hermès Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes

Hermès is on a tear this year, like a runaway horse pulling a carriage full of the GPHG awards it racked up a few weeks ago. The brand won both the Mens’ and Ladies’ complications categories with their respective Arceau Le Temps Voyageur models. It still may come as a surprise to a lot of the watch community, however, that the maison has so many complicated offerings in its catalogs that many haven’t even made it to its website.

Case-in-point: Hermès Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes So Black. Though not GPHG award-nominated (I’d imagine it would be in the running for any “longest name” category) it’s still a technical marvel. In this case, the achievement is not just making a watch with a tourbillon and a minute repeater, rather, it’s the fact the designers have paid homage to the brand’s heritage, showing their confidence that Hermès can hold its own against the big names of the watch industry. Issued in a numbered 24-piece limited series, the Arceau Lift tourbillon répétition minutes so black watch by Hermès features a black grand feu enamel dial revealing part of its captivating mechanism It combines two magnificent horological complications. The complex mechanism of the double-gong minute repeater can be admired through the horse-shaped dial cut-out. The flying tourbillon is revealed through a round aperture at 6 o’clock.

The double-H tourbillon structure of the Hermès Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes So Black watch is inspired by an emblematic motif of the Hermès boutique in the Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. This distinctive design surmounting the carriage and barrel bridge echoes the shape of the wrought iron adorning the entrance, railings, staircase and elevator of the Parisian establishment.

Hermès expands its iconic Arceau watch family by revealing a high-complication watch with flying tourbillon and minute repeater mechanisms.

The timeless silhouette of this Arceau watch takes the form of a round case with stirrup-like asymmetrical lugs. A one-of-a-kind model in rose or white gold, the Arceau Lift tourbillon répétition minutes features a white or Abyss blue-lacquered dial. A horse-shaped cut-out in the lacquered dial reveals the Hermès Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes movement. Framed by the equestrian profile cut-out hugging the curves of the case, the complexity of the double-gong minute-repeater mechanism is captivating. This traditional horological complication is combined here with another horological exception – the flying tourbillon – coiled inside the horse’s neck and visible through a round aperture at 6 o’clock. Forming a double H, the architecture of the tourbillon is inspired by mot emblematic of the Hermès boutique on the Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. This design crowning the tourbillon carriage and barrel bridge picks up the pattern of the artistic wrought ironwork adorning the entrance, railings, staircase and lift at the Parisian establishment.

Visible through the dial cut-outs and the sapphire crystal case-back, the new mechanical hand-wound movement H1924 from Manufacture Hermès emits the clear chime of its minute repeater from a white or rose gold case measuring 43 mm in diameter. Hermès Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes Re-designed to incorporate two major Haute Horlogerie complications, this precious case was designed in the Hermès Horloger workshops, as were the lacquered dial and matt black alligator strap.

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Hermès Arceau Grande Lune

Designed in 1978 by Henri d’Origny, the Hermès Arceau Grande Lune watch is named after and inspired by a saddlery element: a hoop-shaped part of the stirrup.

Its classic, timeless and unostentatiously elegant aesthetic, along with its evocation of the equestrian world, make it one of the emblematic models in the brand’s watch collections – and one that is particularly representative of the inimitable style of Hermès, saddle-maker in Paris since 1837. This year, a new version Hermès Arceau Grande Lune watch is enriching the line of Arceau watches. Echoing the case of the 43 mm chronograph model, the Arceau Grande Lune watch is a complete calendar watch featuring day and month apertures. Its dial is stamped with a herringbone motif identical to that found on saddle rugs. The stamped and rhodiumed numerals maintain the classic appearance of the original model, with a sloping design that follows the movement of the hands and seems to keep ahead of time. The broad opening at 6 o’clock highlights the moon disc and its rhodiumed stars specifi cally designed by Hermès in a deep blue shade. The calendar display indexed around the moon disc is surrounded by a rhodiumed fl ange, while the snailed motif radiating from the centre of the counter creates a refi ned sunburst effect. The moonphase module created by Dubois Dépraz is fi tted to a self-winding movement that may be admired through the transparent case-back revealing its circular-grained and snailed finishing adorned with Côtes de Genève.
The Arceau Petite Lune is lit up by 87 sapphires and 68 diamonds set in «Jeté» from the 38 mm steel case to the natural white mother-of-pearl dial. C
reated in 1978 by Henri d’Origny, the Hermès Arceau Grande Lune watch mingles understatement with distinctiveness. Its round case with asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs and sloping Arabic numerals evoking a galloping horse endow it with timeless elegance.

The Hermès Arceau Grande Lune watch is lit up by 87 sapphires and 68 diamonds set in «Jeté» from the 38 mm steel case to the natural white mother-of-pearl dial. As if blown in by a gentle breeze, the azure blue stones surround a mischievous Moon sparkling against a deep blue sky dotted with stars.

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Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur

The Arceau models from Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur have become the vehicle for both time-only watches, as well as complications such as the Arceau L’Heure De La Lune. Originally designed by Henri D’Origny in 1978, the round case and arch-shaped lugs have made the various Arceau models design icons for Hermès and for Watches & Wonders 2022, Hermès is introducing the new Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur – an Arceau take on a dual time zone watch.
The home time is shown in an aperture at 12:00, while local time is shown on a subdial mounted on a satellite that can move around the dial, above the stylized map beneath it. The procedure for setting up the watch will feel fairly straightforward to anyone who has used a two time zone watch before, or who has some familiarity with the complication.

First, use the pusher at 9:00 to place the satellite opposite the city that represents your home time zone. Next, pull the crown out to the 3rd position, and set the time in the satellite to the correct time. (If your home time zone is using Summer time, use the city with “S” indicated, but a cool detail is that for non-English speaking countries, the letter ins’t S; instead, it’s the first letter of the word for Summer in that country’s native language.) Then, push the crown in to the second position, and turn it until the correct home time is displayed in the home time window. From that point on, once you start traveling, you simply press the pusher to move the city ring until the satellite has rotated around the dial to a position adjacent to your local time city, which will automatically update the position of the hour hand, as well. In use, the watch is quite straightforward but in practice, it was quite complex to implement. The satellite dial showing local time maintains the correct orientation when the user moves it around the dial (a feature also used in the L’Heure De La Lune watch, where the Moon displays maintain the correct orientation as they rotate) and the city indicator hand does so, as well, but allowing the satellite to rotate while maintaining the right orientation along with the city indicator hand, and updating the hour hand position at the same time took some doing. The complications module was developed by Chronode, a specialist in unusual complications, and requires the use of three differentials, with a lot of time expended on making sure that shock resistance and reliability would not be issues in a watch that, after all, is expected to spend some time on the road. A word on that map – it’s based on the fanciful notion of an “equestrian planet” and the original design was created by Jérôme Colliard, for the “Planisphère d’un monde équestre” silk scarf.
There’s no question that this is one of the most original takes on a two time zone watch in quite a while. Generally speaking, complexity and practicality are at odds when you’re talking about dual time zone watches – the primary mandate is usually centered on ease of use, legibility, and utility, and fanciful artistry, as a rule, need not apply. The achievement here from Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur is that they did, in fact, make a dual time zone watch replete with whimsy (so much so that I am forced to use the word “whimsy”) which also gives up nothing in terms of practicality. It is, of course, not quite as instantly legible as a GMT-Master II (for instance) but aside from giving some minor ground in that respect to one of the most utilitarian timepieces every created, the Arceau Le Temps Voyageur succeeds admirably at something very hard to get right.

Overall, this is a delightful addition to the lineup of Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur watches from Hermès, as well as proof that you really can teach an old dog – or complication – new tricks.

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Hermès Kelly watch

Created in 1975, the Hermès Kelly watch reveals new facets of its free-spirited attitude. Whether a metal bracelet, diamond-set or worn as a sautoir necklace, it demonstrates a light-hearted gift for self-reinvention. A powerful style statement expressing a distinctive take on femininity, it derives its padlock shape from the iconic handbag designed by Robert Dumas in the 1930s.

The new Hermès Kelly watch is the latest chapter in a luxury yarn that spins back almost a century. It was in the 1930s that Robert Dumas, future chief executive of the storied Parisian house, designed a strikingly contemporary trapezoid-shaped leather bag, complete with side straps and a jewel-like clasp and padlock.

The elegant yet practical design was unusual for a time when the predominant fashion was for women to carry small flat clutches, beaded evening bags and minaudières, delicate vessels that were focused more on adornment than practicality. It was not until the late 1950s however that Dumas’s bag, known originally as the sac à depèches, soared to icon status thanks to Hollywood star Grace Kelly.

Hermès Kelly watch had bought the bag at Hermès’s Paris store and later used it to conceal her pregnancy from a pack of press photographers. With her picture plastered across magazines around the world, the bag shot to international fame and was eventually renamed the Kelly in honour of the actress-turned-princess. Today, like its sister the Birkin, a Kelly bag is a collector’s item, carrying a long waiting list and fetching eye-watering sums at resale.

The Hermès Kelly watch next chapter came in 1975 when its distinctive clasp was reimagined as a timepiece, its padlock incorporating the dial, and wrapping around the wrist on a single or double tour leather bracelet that mimicked the bag’s side straps. “Even for a watch from 1975, I find it’s still something modern and liberating today with this lock dancing around on your wrist,” says Philippe Delhotal, Hermès Horloger’s creative director. The design was an immediate success and solidified Hermès’s place in the watchmaking world.  La Montre Hermès, its watchmaking arm, has gone from strength to strength since its establishment in 1978, offering a broad range of designs that are a favourite with fashion editors and watch lovers alike. The USP of Hermès’s approach to time is that it does so with an enviable lightness of touch.

The brand now revisits the Kelly, elevating it to all-new heights of luxuriousness with a metal bracelet in gold or stainless steel. “We took the little metal plate from the bag and made it into links,” explains Delhotal. The geometric links provide a supple bracelet, which, together with reducing the size of the lock, creates what Delhotal describes as a more “feminine, more jewel-like piece that you can still wear everyday”.

The finishing touch? Diamonds of course. It also stays true to Hermès’s playful spirit “It moves with you as you walk. It frees you and gives you that elegance,” says Delhotal. That freedom extends to the way you wear it. Now bedecked in diamonds, the padlock can be detached from the bracelet and worn around the neck peeking out from inside an Hermès leather clochette. We say it’s fit for a princess.