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Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

Relentless in their pursuit of making classic designs with movements and complications that would typically be reserved for a much higher price bracket, and making it just a bit more attainable, Frédérique Constant have unveiled their take on a thin in-house perpetual calendar movement with the Frédérique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture watch, and the result is sure to please with prices just around 8,000 CHF.

First things first, for a perpetual calendar watch to be priced in the mid four figures and topping out at just around the five-figure mark for a gold, albeit gold-plated, version is quite a feat. Add on top of that the presence of an in-house movement, and you’ve got a combination for success. To put the Frédérique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture watch in context, pieces like the Montblanc Meisterstuck Heritage Perpetual Calendar watch asking €10,000 in steel are almost unheard of. Moving on from the value proposition, I’ve got some thoughts on the aesthetics of the piece.
I find myself preferring the looks of the more modern variants of the Frédérique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture. To be sure, the perpetual calendar, especially as executed here with the triple subdial layout plus a moonphase indicator, is very much an old-school look. This means it can get to looking (and feeling) a bit tired. With the smooth dial and stick indices, Frédérique Constant manages to unclutter the look and bring it closer to the modern era. Adding in what I feel to be their signature handset brings the complete package to a ready-for-anything sort of look, while the Breguet hand-equipped watch feels like it is more for the occasions when you have a suit or tux on. That isn’t to say the cleaner look couldn’t fit with a suit, as it most certainly could.
The new movement inside the Frédérique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is known as the FC-775 calibre, produced and assembled by Frédérique Constant. In order to keep the overall watch slim, the movement itself only measures in at 6.7mm thick, while still giving a place for the perpetual calendar complication to call home. Other specs of note for the automatic movement would be the 38-hour power reserve and a running frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vph).
For the ultimate flexibility with the Frédérique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, I should think that the steel case is the route to go, as the rose gold (along with this style of watch, regardless of dial and hands) can feel much more formal. As to the white or blue dial, I suppose, that is up to you. Now, serious horology nerds are going to likely freak out over this watch, and for good cause. As previously mentioned, pricing will be somewhere around 8,000 CHF for the steel version and likely not considerably more for the pink gold-plated version.

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Frederique Constant Flyback Chronograph Manufacture

An in-house flyback chronograph for less than $4,000 is nothing to scoff at. One of these is now available from Frederique Constant Flyback Chronograph Manufacture, which introduced a typically classical interpretation just last week. We shared the basics as soon as the watch was launched, and now a few days later we’re back with live images – including one of the new movement – and some more information. But our overall opinion hasn’t changed – this really is a great watch for the money.
First up, let’s take a look at the back of the watch, which offers a view of new FC-760 caliber. This is a movement which took six years to get right, so it deserves a little attention from us (and from you). It’s a flyback, meaning you can reset the chronograph hand without stopping it first, useful for timing laps, for example, or any two events that follow each other instantly. Developing a chronograph is never easy, and it’s something to be applauded for sure, but it’s worth noting despite the dial’s looks (more on that later) this is a two-register chronograph that only times up to 30 minutes.
It’s an automatic chronograph, originally developed by Frederique Constant’s prodigious technical director, Pim Koeslag, and entrusted to Alpina (a sister brand) before making its full debut in an actual FC collection, still with the same modular construction and surprisingly short components list. But this time it is cosmetically enhanced, which is a good thing since it is fully exposed, gold rotor and all, through a sapphire caseback.
The case measures 42mm and features rectangular chronograph pushers, giving it just a touch of vintage charm. The watch will be offered in stainless steel with or without rose gold plating. Several dial options are also available when it comes to color, finish, and dial features. The most classic of the bunch is a silver hobnail dial with thin traditional Roman numerals, blued pomme hands, and a hobnail minute track on the outside.
Just as elegant, but perhaps a little more contemporary in terms of style, are the dark grey and silvered dials with baton indexes and a tachymeter scale on the outside (note: the watches shown here are still prototypes and the tachymeter scale is wrongly labeled a pulsometer on the dial here – look at the graduations though and you’ll see it’s a tachy scale). The combination comes off surprisingly well, and these seem to the most popular of the three. My personal pick is the dark grey version, which offers the most interesting contrast with the rose gold case and feels like the most versatile. But each one stands on its own merits.
On the dial, what looks like a standard three-register chronograph layout isn’t. There’s no need for an hour totalizer, which would usually occupy one of the registers, since this is only a 30-minute chronograph, remember. In addition to that hours totalizer, the remaining two registers display the running seconds at nine o’clock and the date at six o’clock. On top of that, these registers are quite large compared to classic chronograph displays, which increases their legibility, particularly when we’re talking about the date.

In stainless steel, the Flyback Chronograph Manufacture will set you back $3,995, while the rose gold plated version will retail for $4,295. It’s worth noting the Alpiner 4 Flyback Chronograph, from Alpina, started at $4,895 on a leather strap, utilizing the same movement.

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Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture

When Frederique Constant released the Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture a few months ago, it seemed to turn a lot of heads. Staying true to the brand’s philosophy of creating accessible luxury timepieces, the watch boasted a new in-house caliber (more of a variation, to be picky) and a decidedly Patek-y look for a relatively low price point. Coming in just below $4k, the watch offered a lot of value for an in-house movement, and an aesthetic that often costs an arm and a leg to obtain. It also showed off an eye-catching flip-open case back, which gave it some unexpected panache.
The last time we reviewed an FC it was the spiritual cousin of this watch, the Slimline Moonphase, which used a similar movement, and achieved high points for style and finish. While the watch was a winner, one of the complaints a lot of people had about it was the 42mm diameter. While I found it still wore very well, the notion of a 42mm dress/formal watch with a very large dial is understandably a bit concerning. The Classic Moonphase comes in at a more palatable 40.5mm, but wears even smaller due to various design details. As such, it might just be the option for those turned off by the former’s size. Apart from that, the design itself offers a very attractive option in the under $5k market, so let’s take a closer look.
Coming in at 40.5 x 47 x 12.77mm (to top of sapphire), the Classic Moonphase is a robust dress/formal watch that wears a bit smaller than expected. The design, as the name indicates, is classic in styling with thick, near straight lugs coming out of a rounded case. The mid-case, bezel, sapphire and case back all elegantly curve, creating very attractive fluid surfaces that belie the 40mm diameter. It is, but once again, the smoothness of the sides makes it look and feel less so. More over, part of the thickness is thanks to the hunter case-back, a detail I particularly love.
he case is polished all around, which might actually make it look a bit smaller too (gloss and black tend to do that). While fitting of the style, some brushing would have been nice, particularly on the tops of the lugs. That said, the watch looks good enough as is.

The crown is onion-style, measuring about 6 x 4mm. It fits the classic style of the watch, and I was glad to see it was relatively small. Onion crowns can get a bit ornate for my taste, and also a bit uncomfortable, when they are large. My one gripe is that it’s a bit hard to pull out, so you need to dig a finger nail under it to make pop out of home position. Hand winding, conversely, is easy.
Flipping the watch over, you are met with a fairly plain piece of steel with a couple of etched markings. Upon closer inspection, you’ll notice that there is a hinge on one side, and a small flange on the other. Popping it open with your finger nail reveals a wide display window showing off the absolutely gorgeous movement within, as well as the perlage finishing on the inside of the cover.

The “hunter-style” back is a reference to old pocket watches, giving the watch a decidedly early 20th century feel. While a gimmick, I love it. Sure, it does protect the display window, which is nice, but clearly not a huge issue. What it does in practice that I like is really showcase the movement, which is likely a large reason one is interested in this watch. FC’s in-house caliber’s are beautifully designed and finished… a real selling point of the watch and brand. When the watch is off your wrist, you’ll be hard pressed not to open it up to admire the movement. And, if you’re the showing off type, when your non-watch friends take a look, their minds might just be blown.
Sticking with the theme, the dial of the Classic Moonphase has a tried and true design, closely resembling that of a 50’s Patek, as noted by WatchesbySJX. This is both the good and bad about the watch… it’s a great look and a design that is as handsome here on the FC as the Patek. Me, you and likely everyone we know (unless you are friends with Charlie Sheen) are not going to be getting their hands on the Patek, lest they have a few hundred grand to spare. Moreover, you’ll enjoy seeing this on your wrist, and it’s still in the end a sort-of “generic” look for the time period. Also, it might very well be the only reasons one is interested in this watch in the first place… But, a lack of originality is always unfortunate, and a bit of an issue with the brand in general.
Moving on, the dial consists of an elegant light silver sunburst surface which immediately gives the dial some depth and texture. The primary index consists of applied steel markers with a beautiful faceted shape. They glint in the light, and add some nice contrast to the fluid lines of the case. Around the outer edge of the dial is a minute/seconds index of lines and numerals, encircled by a thin black line. I quite like how this index adds something a bit sportier/more technical to the dial, keeping it from feeling too dressy. The index has numerals every 5 minutes/seconds as well as sub-seconds marks. Certainly a watch this style could have forgone this index for just the applied markers, but it works very well.

At 6 is the star of the show; the combined small-date index and moonphase. This area is actually virtually identical as to what was found on the Slimline Moonphase. As I liked it there, I like it here too. The center of the dial is indented a drop, then cutout to create the classic moonphase aperture. Around the window are numerals for the date in black. The moon disk is a dark metallic blue with brassy cutouts for the moon and stars. The occasional shock of blue light that reflects off of it adds to subtle, but luxurious feel of the watch.
Keeping with the Patek-esque origins, the hour and minute hands are broad dauphine style, with a slight bend for dimensionality. They are well proportioned and look good against the silver surface. The seconds hand is then a thin polished stick with a counterweight. The small hand that points to the date is actually more of a leaf shape, and is the same that was found on the Slimline, where the hour and minutes are also leafs. While I don’t think it looks bad, another dauphine hand might have matched better…also, knowing it’s on both makes me feel like they chose an existing hand to save cost.
Powering the Classic Moonphase is the “new” FC-715 caliber. The difference between the 715 and 705 found in the Slimline is the central seconds. So, variation on a caliber, new caliber…you choose. Either way, it’s a gorgeous movement, as previously noted, and an uncommon value for an in-house movement. The FC-715 is a 26-jewel automatic with manual wind, hacking seconds, small pointer date, moonphase and a frequency of 28,800 bph. One of the great features of these movements is that the moonphase is set via the crown. In first position, one direction changes the date, the other progresses the moonphase disk. While it’s likely not going to be set to exacting astronomical standards, eyeballing the moon via the Watchville app’s handy clock is easy enough to do.
Features aside, looking at these movements is a genuine pleasure. The design of the movement is simple and elegant, with a large, central balance with bridge and a central winding plate. While the gear train is mostly hidden, the large surfaces of circular Cote de Geneve and perlage that are studded with blue screws give you more than enough to enjoy. The skeletonized gold-tone rotor finishes the movement nicely. Trust me, if you have one of their watches in your possession, you’ll spend a lot of time looking at the movement. It’s honestly one of my favorite looking movements, certainly in the price range we discuss.
The Classic Moonphase comes on a black Gator strap with matching black stitch for a fairly sleek and conservative look. The strap is nicely made, tapering a couple of millimeters towards the fairly generic buckle. I think I might have liked an off-white contrast stitch more than just black as this is just a bit too formal for my tastes. That said, I’m glad the watch comes with genuine Gator.

The watch wears very well. The second I strapped it on, it just clicked right into place. Yes, it a bit bulkier than you might expect, but it works. The movement inside is large, so the diameter is limited by that, and the added cover adds some millimeters in height, but the stout design looks and feels good. And, as I said in the case section, it does look and feel smaller than the numbers suggest. As a slightly larger dress watch, it has a nice masculine heft, and is a great watch for everyday formality, like a dressier office job, than just a watch to break out for special occasions. Certainly, if you have a larger wrist, say 8″ and up, this might seem plenty small on your wrist regardless.
Aesthetically, it’s hard to complain about a watch with such clean, classic looks. As someone who veers more towards sport and military watches, this type of design isn’t what I typically gravitate towards, but once on my wrist, I get it and I like it. It’s simply a sophisticated look. One that has gravitas and modesty. The moonphase then adds some complexity to the design, rounding it out to be a great looking piece. If I wore suits on the regular, I’d definitely want a watch like this in my collection. As a jeans and boots type of guy, it’s a bit less of a fit, but I’d still wear it an awful lot.
The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture is a gorgeous watch with a gorgeous movement that people with Patek tastes, but not wallets, will definitely find interesting. It’s a damn handsome watch, in steel or rose gold, that has two great features in the in-house moon phase movement and the hunter caseback. Essentially both aren’t needed elements, but both do add to the look and feel of the watch. While I still wish that Frederique Constant would develop a more unique design vocabulary, as their movements deserve to be showcased by original designs, the Classic is so enjoyable to wear and look at, that you kind of don’t care when it’s on. Sure, purists might have a gripe, but for those of us who aren’t aspiring to own six-figure timepieces, and just want to wear something nice, this will fit the bill.
With that said at $3,995 MSRP, the Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture is far from inexpensive. While the price you actually pay would likely be lower than that through an AD, it’s still a watch you’re going to really want to love to buy. If you’re looking for something this style, want an in-house movement and like moon phases, their really isn’t any competition. And for an in-house automatic moonphase, the price is still very good compared to the competition.

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Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture

An iconic model from Frederique Constant’s Manufacture, the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture has been given an 18-carat rose gold case for the first time, produced in a limited edition of 88 pieces only. For the occasion, this collector’s timepiece features an exclusive, modern dial for the frequent traveller. Success is no accident. Achievements made in watchmaking come down to a combination of elements that Frederique Constant has been fine tuning for over 30 years. Element number one: a useful complication. In this regard, the ability to permanently display world time is an undeniable asset for those who travel internationally. Element number two: ease of use. For an everyday watch, everything has been designed so that the latter and its complication can be adjusted quickly and intuitively, without risk of error. Element number three: the movement. The part most prized by collectors gains considerable value when stamped “Manufacture”. Frederique Constant, a fully integrated manufacture, has already brought out 29 calibres, all of them developed, produced, assembled and inspected within its workshops. Finally, element number four: design. The simple, classic and timeless design of a timepiece allows it to stand the test of trends and time. Frederique Constant has been synonymous with Swiss Made elegance from the very beginning. A Classic that lives up to its name The new Classic Worldtimer Manufacture illustrates this delicate balance. It was added to the Maison’s collections some 10 years ago. The balance struck between the technical, aesthetic and practical immediately impressed watch enthusiasts from all over the world. In a few short years, the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture has established itself as one of the most important timepieces by Frederique Constant. A landmark limited edition The version unveiled today is aimed at discerning collectors. Beyond the balance it embodies, the new Classic Worldtimer Manufacture stands out for its 18-carat rose gold case, with no more than 88 limited edition timepieces on offer. Such preciousness is rare at Frederique Constant. Incidentally, this is the first time in the history of the Manufacture that such a case has been offered for this timepiece. A sophisticated look For this latest version, Frederique Constant has opted for an intense blue dial reminiscent of the ocean and in keeping with the distinguished rose gold case. The continents emerge from the dial in relief, their anthracite grey outlines carved with the greatest precision. The date counter at 6 o’clock is decorated with a sunray guilloché pattern, a traditional finish in Fine Watchmaking. Hovering over it are four hands coordinating with the rose gold; the hour and minute hands and index hour markers are tinged with luminescent material to make them easier to read in low light. Around this miniature world map unfolds the Worldtimer flange, indicating the 24 world time zones and their 24 principal cities. To ensure the dial can be easily read, the 12 daytime hours appear in red, while the 12 night-time hours appear in grey. Carefully preserved DNA The ease of setting and using Frederique Constant timepieces is intrinsic to the Brand. All the features of the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture can be adjusted using the crown, (hours, minutes, date, Worldtimer) eliminating the need for push buttons that could detract from its sleek 42 mm case. As for all Frederique Constant Manufacture collection timepieces, the FC-718 movement in the new Classic Worldtimer Manufacture has been decorated with fine perlage decoration visible through a sapphire crystal caseback that is guaranteed water-resistant to 3 ATM. The informed observer will admire the blued screws in the movement and the rose gold-plated hollowed-out oscillating weight adorned with vertical satin-finishing and “Frederique Constant Manufacture” engraving.
Frederique Constant introduces a new Classic Worldtimer Manufacture variation in a dark grey dial. The Worldtimer timepiece is a must-have for many watch aficionados allowing them to keep track of time everywhere in the world at once. After the first Frederique Constant Worldtimer launch in 2012, the watch stood proudly as one of the brand’s best-selling Manufacture watches. Since then, the Worldtimer has come in a range of 11 models featuring a wide color palette.
In 2019, yet another color variation of this elegant and sophisticated traveling watch is unveiled: a dark grey design of the world map finely etched onto to the dial and the twenty-four cities on its outer rim make one wish for globe-trotting. The date by hand at 6 o’clock makes the perfect addition to the Worldtimer function and further enhances the aesthetic of the watch. The indexes on each hour add to the dial’s readability, offering additional comfort when glancing at the time.
Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture
The new Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture comes in two models featuring a 42mm case in rose-gold-plated stainless steel or in stainless steel both limited to 718 pieces each. The FC-718 caliber is an extraordinary piece of machinery; not only is it in-house designed, developed and produced, but its Worldtimer functions as well as the date are all adjustable via the crown, with no additional push-buttons. To easily set the watch, one must choose between three settings; the first lets the user wind the watch by turning the crown upwards; the second allows to set the date and city by turning the crown upwards and downwards respectively; and the third position enables the user to set the time by turning the crown downwards. The timepiece displays two separate discs, one featuring a 24h day-night indicator and a second one with the twenty-four cities. As a Manufacture movement, the FC-718 caliber is decorated with Perlage and circular Côtes de Genève and holds a 42-hour power reserve. The dark grey timepiece is complete with a dark grey alligator leather strap with white stitches.

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Frederique Constant Slimline Monolithic Manufacture

One of the most noticeable trends in technical watchmaking since the end of the Second World War has been the evolution of watches with higher and higher frequency oscillators. A pendulum clock might have a pendulum that beats once per second. A watch has a balance, which can swing back and forth much more rapidly – a modern watch movement usually runs at 28,800 beats per hour, or eight beats per second. Some movements (the Zenith El Primero, for instance) can beat even faster, at 36,000 beats per hour. The new Frederique Constant Slimline Monolithic Manufacture, from Frederique Constant, has a new type of oscillator, which runs at 40Hz – that’s a staggering 288,000 beats per hour. The watch was introduced in March, and even in the aftermath of Watches & Wonders, it’s still one of the most technically interesting watches of the year.
Any watch or clock is, at its most basic, an oscillator (the pendulum, a balance wheel) with a driving system (a mainspring in a watch, a falling weight in a pendulum clock) and a mechanism that both counts the oscillations, and drives the oscillator. This is the escapement.
Above, you can see the mainspring barrel on the left. The barrel rotates under the impetus of the mainspring inside it, and the teeth on the barrel gear to the pinion of the center wheel. The gear train ends, on the right, at the escape wheel and lever. (The balance wheel isn’t shown, for clarity.) As the balance swings back and forth, it unlocks the lever once per swing, letting the gear train advance. The gearing is set up so that the center wheel turns once per hour, and drives the hour and minute hands.
So why would you like to have an oscillator that beats faster than 36,000 vph? The answer is that such an oscillator should be more stable – that is, less apt to drift from its expected frequency. If a balance wheel were to always beat at exactly its expected frequency, you would have a perfect watch, but in reality, a number of factors can cause the frequency of a balance to vary, making the watch sometimes too slow, and sometimes too fast. Frequency varies when the oscillator is affected by outside forces, which can be aging lubricant in the watch itself, or changes in temperature, or the presence of magnetic fields, or physical shocks and changes in the position of the watch. The reason quartz watches are generally so much more accurate than mechanical watches is that a quartz oscillator beats at a much higher frequency – the tuning-fork-shaped quartz crystal hums at 32,768 beats per second.
The Frederique Constant Slimline Monolithic Manufacture, on the other hand, uses a miniaturized version of the flexible one-piece oscillator design we first saw from Zenith, first in the Defy Lab, and then in the Defy Inventor. Rather than the usual combination of balance, balance spring, and lever, the monolithic oscillator in the Monolithic Manufacture uses a one-piece (hence, “monolithic”) silicon oscillator, which has integrated into it flexible central blades that allow it to oscillate, and an integrated lever. The oscillator has two weights mounted on it, which can be used to regulate the rate of the oscillator, just as rim weights on a balance can be used for the same purpose.

The connection between the Monolithic Manufacture and the Defy Inventor is of course, not a coincidence. Both were developed by a company called Flexous, under the direction of CEO Nima Tolou; Flexous was founded in 2012 and is a branch of surprisingly punctuated tech incubator YES!Delft.
The oscillator itself is a circular disk of silicon, and the blades, lever mechanism, and escape wheel are all silicon as well. Above, the escape wheel is at 12:00 (and is driven by the gear train, from the mainspring barrel) and on either side, you can see the teeth of the lever mechanism. The weights for adjusting rate are the two bars to the left and right, with grooves etched into the silicon to provide increments for the watchmaker. When running, the oscillator vibrates too fast for the naked eye to see individual vibrations, and the seconds hand advances 80 times per second, appearing to glide smoothly around the dial.
Conventional watchmaker’s electronic timing machines don’t work on an escapement that runs this fast, so the rate of the oscillator is adjusted with the help of a laser-controlled high-speed camera, capable of firing up to 250,000 times per second.
While a standard balance in a mechanical watch usually swings through an arc of around 300º, the Monolithic Oscillator vibrates in a much smaller arc – just 6º, which is par for the course for very high-frequency oscillators.
Aside from the greater rate stability offered by a high-frequency oscillator, the Monolithic Oscillator offers the same general advantages as other silicon components – the most significant, of course, is that, unlike standard escapement components, it’s completely unaffected by magnetism. The Monolithic Oscillator seems to be a solution, too, to the most divisive quality of the Defy Lab’s oscillator, which is its sheer size. The size isn’t so much a problem if you’re looking for visual drama but it does limit the degree to which the technology can find its way into a larger range of watches. If the Defy Lab was a proof-of-concept, the Monolithic Oscillator is a demonstration that flexible silicon oscillators need not be a niche product – at least, there are no insurmountable technical barriers. The Monolithic Oscillator even manages to deliver a very respectable 80-hour power reserve.
The greatest difference between the Monolithic Oscillator and the Zenith Oscillator is size. The Zenith Oscillator took up the entire diameter of the case, more or less; the Monolithic Oscillator, on the other hand, was developed in order to make the basic flexible oscillator technology fit into the space normally occupied by the conventional escapement, balance, and balance spring. Doing so helps keep the watches at a friendly size for daily wear, as the Monolithic Oscillator uses much less space – the Monolithic Manufacture is a very wearable 40mm in diameter, vs. 44mm for the slightly larger Zenith.

Another advantage to the one-piece silicon oscillator is a reduction in parts count. The oscillator has just three components – the oscillator itself, and the two adjustable weights. These replace, in a conventional watch, the balance, balance staff, balance spring, collet (which attaches the inner coil of the balance spring to the balance), balance stud (the fixing point of the outer coil), the four jewels in the antishock system, two antishock springs, and the lever, lever pivot and lever jewels … as well as, come to think of it, the two jewels for the lever pivots as well. You also don’t have to worry about oil deteriorating on the balance pivots or on the escape wheel teeth, which is a ubiquitous cause of long-term rate variation in a standard Swiss lever watch.
The fact that the oscillator has been significantly downsized also means more conventional aesthetics, which depending on your tastes may be a feature or a bug. The Zenith is a large, extroverted showcase for high-tech component manufacturing and it’s an extremely distracting watch to wear. I mean that in a good way – the high-speed vibration of the oscillator is mesmerizing to watch, albeit unsettling in its velocity. The Monolithic Oscillator, on the other hand, vibrates so quickly that it looks almost as if it’s standing still, and the reduced size means less visual impact as well. What you get back, though, is a watch capable of presenting its high-tech heart in a traditional package.
The watch is a limited edition in two different case materials. Steel models with a blue or white dial are $4,795, with 810 of each slated for production; the gold model is $15,995, in an edition of 81 watches. Pricing for the steel models, especially, reflects Frederique Constant’s longtime basic approach to watchmaking, which is to provide classic design at a relatively affordable price (while at the same time offering as much technically distinctive watchmaking as possible).
It’ll be interesting to see how customers react to this watch – it’s obviously an attempt to bring flexible silicon component technology more into the mainstream, perhaps more than would be possible with the Defy Lab. The latter is an intentionally tech-forward watch intended to put the new oscillator front and center. The Monolithic Manufacture, on the other hand, wants to offer the same advantages but in a more conventional package (and therefore one which, FC hopes, may have a broader appeal).
I remember in the early 2000s, when silicon components began to find their way more and more into conventional watches, how much hand-wringing there was amongst us grouchy traditionalists. The thought of, say, a Patek, with a silicon balance spring, raised my hackles in a big way, as it seemed completely inconsistent with the traditional craft, traditional materials approach to mechanical horology that I’ve always cherished. Nowadays, though, silicon has long since become an established part of watch technology, with silicon balance springs, levers, and escape wheels almost ubiquitous.

There’s no denying that in a lot of respects, silicon components offer advantages over conventional ones. In a conventional movement, the setting of jewels into the movement, adjustment of the pallet stones on the lever, poising (dynamic and static) of the balance, forming and pinning the balance spring, and so on, are all intrinsic elements of traditional watchmaking craft. Anything that threatens to replace them outright kind of gives me the willies. What I like about the approach to the material in the Monolithic Manufacture (and in the Defy Lab) is that they take advantage of properties silicon has that can’t be duplicated in conventional materials, to create something you can’t make using standard brass, steel, rubies, and oil.
Although there have been any number of experimental, concept, semi-experimental, and limited-edition watches with silicon components, the material’s aesthetic possibilities remain relatively unexplored. Here I run into some mixed feelings about the Monolithic Manufacture from a design standpoint. I generally don’t care for openings in the dial of a watch – there aren’t too many tourbillons, for instance, with open dials that no matter how good, I wouldn’t like even better if they just closed that dial up. However, the rationale for having an open dial on the Monolithic Manufacture is the same as for an open-dial tourbillon – if you want your watch to be a conversation piece, it’s nice to not have to take it off and peer through a display back to get the conversation started. I’d be curious to see how the oscillator, with its slick peacock-blue sheen, looks in a less conventionally turned-out timepiece. I like guilloché and pomme hands and Roman numerals as much as the next person, but the oscillator’s so high tech you kind of get the same feeling you’d get if a UFO landed at the Louvre.

The Frederique Constant Slimline Monolithic Manufacture is, if not immediately seductive, still a fascinating step in the evolution of silicon components. It would seem to have solved most if not all of the problems potentially raised by monobloc silicon oscillating systems, offering a great power reserve, and a smoothly gliding hour hand reminiscent of Spring Drive, or even a classic tuning fork Accutron. This should be an ideal system for a sports watch – low mass, high shock resistance, inherently antimagnetic, good rate stability – and it will be interesting to see if, after the production run of the Monolithic Manufacture is sold out, Frederique Constant sticks with it and deploys it more widely in its other collections.

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Glashütte Original PanoMatic Lunar Red Gold Watch Green Dial

Glashütte Original PanoMatic Lunar Red Gold Watch Green Dial
German luxury watch brand Glashütte Original presents a new version of its popular PanoMaticLunar watch. This new automatic watch comes dressed in a 40 mm circular case and fitted with a traditional leather strap. Its unusual asymmetric dial boasts an intricate off-centre hour and minute hands, the prominent small second display, the characteristic Panorama Date display at 4 o’clock and its cleverly rendered moon phase indicator. The colour gradient on the hand-crafted dial is particularly eye catching: starting from an intense dark green in the centre, the colour changes gradually to black at the edges. The see-through sapphire crystal case back offers a clear view of the exquisitely finished manufactory 90-02 automatic calibre with its off-centre rotor. This movement incorporates Glashütte Original’s signature duplex swan-neck fine adjustment along with numerous other elements of authentic Glashütte watchmaking.
The red gold case and crown are polished to perfection and offer a warm contrast to the rich, deep green of the dial; the glossy alligator leather strap in green is the lush, opulent finishing touch to a harmonious presentation.
Model name: PanoMaticLunar
Movement
Calibre 90-02 automatic with finely finished movement
Frequency: 28,800 A/h, corresponds to 4 Hz
Dimensions: Ø 32.6 mm, height 7 mm
Balance: screw balance with 18 weighted screws
Running time: 42 hours (+/- 5 %)
Balance spring: anachron
Shock protection: Incabloc
Jewels: 47 jewel bearings
Additional details: Automatic movement, hour and minute (off-centre), small second (off-centre), second stop, Panorama Date, moon phase, exquisitely finished movement, Glashütte stripe finish, balance bridge engraved by hand, bevelled edges, polished steel parts, polished/ blued screws, skeletonized rotor with 21-ct gold oscillation weight (off-centre), duplex swan-neck fine adjustment

Functions
Hour and minute off centre, small second off-centre, moon phase and Panorama Date

Case
Red gold case
Diameter: 40 mm, height: 12.7 mm
Glass: Sapphire crystal, anti reflective both sides
Bottom: Sapphire crystal

Dial
Varnished green/black with dégradé effect, appliques
Hands: Lance shape, gold with Super-LumiNova

Straps
Louisiana Alligator leather strap green

Reference number
1-90-02-23-35-01 (red gold pin buckle)
1-90-02-23-35-30 (red gold fold fastener)
1-90-02-23-35-50 (red gold short fold fastener)

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Longines Spirit Automatic

The pilot’s watch is one of those pieces of gear which has always conjured up sentimental and historical imagery of a bygone era. The era of flyboys, fighter pilots, and bomber jackets; the smell of leather, the rattle of gears, the look of the instrument panels, and the roar of piston engines. Things don’t look and feel that way anymore, which is why it is quite nice when a modern pilot-style watch can stir up those sentiments. Such is the case with the Longines Spirit Automatic, a simple, legible, and well-sized watch with a few little nuances that are best appreciated in the metal.

This watch was announced earlier this year, and in typical fashion, I was not sure about it from the press photos. It looked straightforward enough – large Arabic numerals, black dial, steel case, leather strap – but I would be lying if I said it did anything for me at the time, on the basis of just photos. When I finally had it in the hand, I saw a watch that I think represents tremendous value for the price, which is always a welcome combination.
The first thing that I noticed when I saw this piece was the dial and the multi-faceted aspects which make up the design. At first blush, this is a standard black dial. In some lights, it has a gloss effect. In reality, the dial is really quite matte, and in direct sunlight, the matte dial effect is accentuated, appearing almost grey from some angles. The flat effect of the matte dial is a big draw for this watch, at least to me. It adds to the vintage-leaning design and is honestly just more enjoyable to look at than a standard black dial would be.
This watch also features large, bold, applied white Arabic numerals, in a typeface that brings to mind the dial design of the Dirty Dozen watches, in some ways, but in other ways, is also sufficiently modern. Getting into the typographical weeds a bit, the flat four jumps out to me as the most vintage looking number of the bunch. There is also a subtle serif on the seven and five which are quite reminiscent of an older style of watch design. Moving outward, the minute track also sports a slew of interesting, vintage-inspired numerals. Again, you have the appearance of a flat four, but also a very cool open six. The minute track is one of those aspects of the watch that could easily be missed at first blush, but to my mind, it ties the whole dial design together.

Staying on the topic of typefaces, the date window on this watch features a font choice which is consistent with the other design elements of the watch. Sometimes, this is where a watch loses its focus, where the choice of numerals inside the date window breaks from the overall consistency of the design. Here, it bolsters the overall vintage effect of the watch. Moreover, the text on the matching black background allows the dial to – at least in some way – maintain a level of symmetry. It is, of course, not symmetrical since the number three is missing, but I forgive this because I honestly think a watch like this works better with a date complication. If I had one gripe about the date window, it would be that the numerals appear to have something of a faux-patina look to them, whereas white would have been more consistent.
Generally speaking, in the modern context, pilot’s watches have been on the larger side – i.e. 42mm and up. In recent years, and for many brands, that approach has softened a bit. In fact, I think specifically of the IWC Mark XVIII, or even the newer Spitfire Automatic, which are both in the 39-40mm range. As I was handling this watch, I felt that it shared a lot of similarities with those watches. They seem cut from the same cloth, sporting a size that is entirely of today and not rooted in any particular vintage example (though there are other obvious vintage features). The Longines Spirit gives off a bit more of a modern vibe than those other watches as well, and I think that has to do with the applied numerals. Whereas the matte dial is a decidedly vintage aesthetic, the applied numerals are almost the opposite.
The dial is split up into effectively two parts, separated by a metallic ring. Inside that ring is where we find the Arabic numerals, Longines logo, the handset, and date window. We also have – just above six o’clock – a set of five applied stars and the word chronometer, but more on that later. Overlaid on the metallic ring are white, diamond-shaped markers which are aligned with the Arabics. They are small, but they provide added contrast against the matte black dial surface and are filled with lume – a small but nice additional detail.

Moving to the second portion of the dial, on the other side of the metallic ring, we find the aforementioned minute track with minutes marked off in five-minute intervals, with long hash marks delineating the remaining minutes. There is a series of tiny hash marks between each minute hash mark as well. All of these dial features are housed inside of the 40mm case, which is mostly brushed, with a stepped polished bezel. The case has that retro tool watch look and nice curvature, which fits with the dial design quite well.
The hour and minute hands are long, narrow arrows with a sandblasted finish. The seconds hand is actually one of the most captivating aspects of this watch’s design. The outer end of the seconds hand is painted a bright red, which has an almost lacquered appearance to it. This hand reaches the outermost section of the minute track, but it is the diamond toward the end of the seconds hand that I want to mention. This diamond is the same size as the applied diamond-shaped markers referenced earlier. As the hand sweeps across the dial, the seconds hand diamond appears in the same position overtop the metallic ring as the applied markers. This is a small detail, but evidence of a watch with a design which can reveal unsuspected thoughtfulness over time.
For a watch that is 40mm in diameter, the signed crown is quite large. It is shaped in a pseudo-onion style, which in some angles is more obvious than others. I will admit, I did not notice the size of the crown relative to the size of the watch at first. But as I wore the piece a bit more, that aspect came to become more and more obvious, to the point where I almost could not un-see it. The way it tapers down, there are times when looking at it, that I was not sure if I had screwed the crown down all the way. I would not necessarily call this a deal-breaker, but just something worth noting. While it adds to the vintage ideal that this watch seems to be going for, to my mind, a more conventional crown design at a smaller size would not have taken away from the overall look of this piece.
I really like that Longines utilized a closed caseback with this watch because it works with its overall tool watch air. The caseback design features a globe engraving with the brand’s logo, as well as the wordmark below. There is also a set of six screws present around the caseback plate which appear to keep it securely affixed to the watch. One of the biggest value features of the watch is behind the caseback – beating away inside the Longines Spirit is the Longines caliber L888.4, an ETA-based design (ETA A31.L11, in turn based on the 2892-A2) featuring 64 hours of power reserve and a silicon balance spring. But what makes things more interesting is the fact that the movement has been COSC certified. For a watch priced just above $2,000, that is a pretty solid deal.

The luminescence on this watch is quite good, and of course, that is aided by the thick, applied white numerals (filled with Super-LumiNova). Generally, with pilot, or pilot-adjacent watches, the lume is either nothing to write home about, or only certain markers are given the lume treatment. Here, every numeral, every marker, and every hand are treated with lume, so you can get equal enjoyment out of the dial in both bright or lowlight environments.
I really enjoyed the 40mm sizing of this watch on the wrist. The lugs are quite long, so it does drape the entire surface area of the wrist, but not in any sort of meaningful way that would render the watch unwearable. The watch manages to give off the gravitas of a larger pilot’s watch while maintaining an eminently classic case size. Case thickness was not an issue either, and I think this watch could be worn in a whole host of situations. Aside from the leather strap option I was able to handle, this watch also comes on a steel bracelet.

The sapphire crystal features what the brand says are “several layers of anti-reflective coating on both sides.” My experience with AR coating is that, while it cuts down on reflections, it also creates an almost purple sheen on the watch when it interacts with the light. That is certainly the case here. Aside from the crown and date window, this was the only other area of the design that somewhat got in the way of my overall enjoyment of the watch. Maybe a few layers less than several would do the trick.
The Longines Spirit 40mm is a smartly executed vintage-inspired watch that is not an homage to any older model in particular. As such, it isn’t tied to any existing design. The end result is a watch that is able to give off a ton of modern flair while not taking away from the flight jacket aesthetic or old school charm. Even though the early days of flight are behind us – the romantic, wistful, and sense stirring aspects of that time but a memory – pieces like this are able to serve as vessels of a time gone by, and that’s precisely what watches should do.

The Longines Spirit 40mm Ref. L3.810.4.53.0 is a 100-meter water resistant watch. The Spirit is 40mm in diameter, featuring a screw-down crown and closed caseback. Leather strap with signed buckle. Automatic caliber L888.4 movement with a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour, and a power reserve of 64 hours. Matte black dial with applied markers and Super-LumiNova on hands and markers.
Earlier this week, we brought you the three-hand version of Longines’ new Spirit pilot’s watch and mentioned that the new line also included a chronograph version. Well, here it is. Carrying largely identical styling to that of its siblings, the Longines Spirit Automatic Chronometer Chronograph sticks to the same format while providing a column-wheel-equipped movement wrapped in a 42mm steel case.
As with the other models in this new collection, the styling for the for Spirit Chronograph is inoffensive and derivative of many other pilot’s watches in the market (again, think Breitling and Bremont). With a date display squeezed in at 4:30 and the appearance of both “Chronometer” and the Spirit line’s unified use of a five star design on the dial, the chronograph packs a lot into its dial layout. For those wondering, the star logo has been used by Longines in the past and, according to the brand, it signifies “an improvement of the quality and reliability of the brand’s movements.” Much like with Uber, five stars is the top rating.
Speaking of the movement, Longines has fitted their L688.4 automatic chronograph movement. Based on the ETA A08.L11, this movement offers a 12-hour chronograph with a column-wheel and a silicon hairspring. Ticking at 4 Hz with COSC certification and 64 hours of power reserve, the L688.4 is a strong value for the segment and a solid alternative to the more garden variety 7750s.

Available with a blue, black, or silver dial, the Spirit Chrono has red accents for the chronograph measure, 100-meters water resistance, and both the main crown and the date corrector crown (at 10) are of a screw-down type. Buyers get the choice of either a leather strap or a steel bracelet for the same price, and the Spirit Chronograph’s case has 22mm lugs.

For around $500 more than the lovely BigEye chronograph, the Spirit offers a more modern design and a current-gen movement that should appeal to a lot of buyers. With an MSRP of $3,100, while I am not at all a fan of the date window, the Longines Spirit 42mm Chronometer Chronograph is a nicely sized and sporty chronograph with a well-spec’d movement and a handsome design (especially with the silver dial).

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Replica Urwerk Watches

Few luxury watch brands capture the look and feel of science fiction as well as Urwerk. Even among the rarified and fantastical ranks of haute horlogerie, Replica Urwerk Watches has built a product line over the last several years that would feel more at home on the bridge of a Romulan Warbird than it would with anything else coming out of Switzerland. When the brand announced earlier this year that it would be discontinuing its signature wandering hours UR-210 collection, it left a gap in the lineup that enthusiasts were eager to see filled. Now, after several months of uncertainty, Urwerk has returned to the wandering hours concept with the revamped UR-220, known internally during development as the “Falcon Project.” While outwardly similar to the previous UR-210, nearly every element of the watch has been redesigned, from a slimmer, more ergonomic case to a movement reworked from the ground up. As a result, the Urwerk UR-220 “Falcon Project” continues one of the brand’s signature looks, while reinventing the design for a new decade.
For its first iteration, the Urwerk UR-220 is housed in a 43.8mm by 53.6mm lugless oblong case made of carbon thin ply composite. This multilayered material (in total, the case features 81 layers of ultra-thin carbon material) leads to a dark, striated look reminiscent of Damascus steel, with an even circular striping pattern. While the distinctive multi-sided shape of the bezel and sapphire crystal, as well as the 12 o’clock crown, is carried over from the UR-210, the UR-220 looks from initial images to have a slimmer and more rounded profile than its predecessor. While this is still a relatively thick watch at 14.8mm, this is still a full 3mm thinner than the UR-210. One of the UR-220’s party pieces is located on the caseback, where a small sapphire display window highlights the “oil change” counter. This is a rotary display tracking the number of months since the last service and a reminder of the recommended 39-month service interval. It’s an interesting way to remind owners of the importance of servicing and will likely make for a good conversation piece. What might become a less desirable conversation piece is the UR-220’s water resistance, as this complex case is only rated to 30 meters.
Like its predecessor, the real centerpiece of the Replica Urwerk Watches UR-220 is the skeletonized dial with its instantly recognizable “satellite” wandering hours display. While the general layout is carried over from the UR-210, initial images show the execution for the new line is narrower, more angular, and visually meaner, with each of the rotating hours markers along with the retrograde minutes hand dominated by new serrated edges. The typefaces used for numerals and dial text have also been substantially changed, with the UR-220 opting for a militaristic, angular stenciled look. Other than the typeface change, however, the retrograde minutes scale along the bottom third of the dial also receives a touch of ribbed surfacing detail. While this scale can be confusing at first glance, the combination of the large central pointer hand framing the current hour marker and indicating the current minute becomes intuitive quickly. At 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock, the UR-220 also features twin power reserve indicators, with the 10 o’clock model covering the entire 48-hour reserve capacity of the movement and the 2 o’clock indicator focusing on the final 24 hours of reserve.
Despite more than a passing visual similarity to the UR-210’s movement, the in-house UR-7.20 hand-wound movement inside the UR-220 has been substantially changed from its predecessor. Beyond removing the automatic winding system found in the UR-210, the UR-7.20 also beefs up the power reserve capacity to 48 hours while maintaining a single mainspring barrel. Power reserve has traditionally been an Achilles heel for Urwerk due to the sheer mass of the wandering hours and retrograde minutes hands requiring extra torque to move, and while 48 hours at a 28,800 bph beat rate is not groundbreaking by any means this is a major step forward.
In keeping with the slimmer, more detailed, and more aggressive aesthetic of the UR-220 lineup, Replica Urwerk Watches pairs this new model with its first-ever rubber strap. There’s a wealth of visual detail here, from the angular scaled layers flowing into the integrated case to the woven sailcloth pattern of the main surface. Urwerk claims this strap has been treated with a Vulcarboné curing process for softness, and the strap features Velcro fastening for fast securing and removal.

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Longines New Legend Diver Watches In Blue And Brown

While vintage-inspired reissue models form the backbone of many brands across the modern watch industry, perhaps no company has embraced its back catalog as thoroughly and extensively as Longines. The Longines Heritage series is a meeting place for vintage designs of nearly every stripe from early pilot chronographs to classic naval deck watches. The super compressor style Longines Legend Diver has been the face of this eclectic series since its introduction in 2007, with a wide variety of sizes and variants over the years. Longines adds even more variety to the Legend Diver line for 2021, adding splashes of color to the classic 42mm model in deep degradè blue and brown. The new blue dial and brown dial Longines Legend Diver models give this classic design a new personality, influencing its character in dramatically different ways.
The 42mm stainless steel case of the Longines Legend Diver is instantly recognizable, with long tapering lugs, a narrow polished external bezel, and of course the twin oversized screw-down crowns topped with a distinctive crosshatch pattern. This super compressor design is markedly different from what usually comes to mind with dive watches, cutting a more elegant and refined profile with ‘50s inspired lines. Like previous iterations, the lugs of these new Legend Diver models are famously long, leading to a larger than expected presence on most wrists, but this illusion of greater scale works with the concept in interesting ways. The original Longines Super Compressor model in 1959 was a massive watch for its time at 42mm, so these longer lugs help to preserve that original sense of presence on the wrist with today’s sizing sensibilities. The Legend Diver’s signature screw-down caseback with its engraved spear-wielding diver returns here, enabling the Legend Diver to reach a robust 300 meters of water resistance.
Where these new Longines Legend Diver models diverge from their predecessors is with dial finishing. The base design remains intact, with its broad internal rotating dive bezel, distinctive spearhead hour hand, and mix of aggressive stencil numerals and printed indices. With the use of color, however, this familiar look takes on two striking new personalities. The deep blue degradè dial variant captures the feel of the ocean depths, sinking gradually from rich ocean blue at the center to deep midnight at the edge in initial images. This cooler color palette gives this midcentury design a more modern, ornamental feel, injecting the utilitarian layout with a splash of marine luxury. The brown dial model is perhaps the more handsome of the pair, capturing a warm spectrum of shades from worn leather to tobacco, chocolate, and black coffee. This warmer palette handsomely complements the khaki lume in initial images, while emulating the feel of a patinated tropical dial.
Longines powers the new blue and brown dial Legend Diver models with the ETA-based Caliber L888.5 automatic movement. The Caliber L888.5 is something of a staple in Longines’ arsenal, with a silicon balance spring and the brand’s unorthodox beat rate of 25,200 bph. Power reserve stands at a solid 64 hours.
In an unorthodox move, Longines pairs both these new Legend Diver models with leather straps. For the blue dial variant, this is a structured navy blue leather strap with a contrasting cream topstitch and a textured pattern reminiscent of woven fabric. The brown dial model opts instead for a weathered leather strap in saddle tan, adding a rugged aged feel to the tropical-esque colorway.
By emphasizing both the tropical aged and oceanic facets of the watch’s personality, these new blue and brown dial Longines Legend Diver models offer a fresh and handsome perspective on this iconic super compressor design. The new blue dial and brown dial Longines Legend Diver models are available now through authorized dealers at an MSRP of 2,260 CHF each. For more details, please visit the brand’s website.

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Glashütte Original SeaQ Date Watch

Although stainless steel dive watches have remained industry staples since at least the early ‘60s, the popularity of two-tone steel and gold divers has proven far more cyclic. The unique blend of flash and function that two-tone brings has come back into vogue over the past several years, and Glashütte Original has already brought the look to its larger, uniquely Germanic SeaQ Panorama Date line. For 2021, the brand expands its steel and gold stable to include the smaller base model SeaQ diver, pairing the look with a deep sunburst-blue dial colorway. The new two-tone Glashütte Original SeaQ offers an intriguingly luxe take on the brand’s intricately detailed diver form, with a nuanced approach to its use of gold elements.
Measuring in at 39.5mm, the case of the new two-tone Glashütte Original SeaQ should feel compact and appropriately vintage-inflected on the wrist. The overall case design is simple and skin diver-esque, with a hefty unguarded screw-down pillbox crown and short, squared-off lugs. As with previous models in the SeaQ line, this one sets itself apart from the pack in the delicacy of its execution. The flowing narrow polished chamfer running the length of the case, the gentle downward curve of the lugs, and the interplay between vertically and radially brushed surfaces are all exemplary in initial images, elevating this elemental form with technique rather than out-and-out pageantry. Naturally, the use of yellow gold for the crown and the rotating dive bezel does add a touch of pageantry itself. That said, where many two-tone designs are overwhelmed with the use of gold, the amount of gold on display here is surprisingly subtle and light, especially when viewing the watch from above. The midnight blue ceramic bezel insert is carried over from the stainless steel model but takes on a new dimension in initial images when complemented by a gold surround for a more dynamic look. Like the standard stainless steel model, this new version of the SeaQ sports a solid caseback with a dive-ready 200 meters of water resistance.
The Glashütte Original SeaQ line traces its stylistic roots back to 1969 and the brand’s first-ever dive watch, the Spezimatic Typ RP TS 200. At the time, the brand’s home city of Glashütte was part of Soviet-aligned East Germany, and the resulting Eastern Bloc aesthetic influences helped to forge the dial of the original Spezimatic as something unique, but not wholly alien to that era’s diver design trends in Switzerland. Of course, both the company and the city of Glashütte are far different today than in 1969, but the new SeaQ still carries some of that quirky East German DNA in its dial. The split between applied baton indices and bold Arabic numerals, the graphic outer minutes scale, and the trademark sword hours and arrow minutes handset all add up to create something clearly distinct from the classic diver formula, but eminently functional, legible, and handsome. Like the case, however, where this dial really shines in images is in the fine nuances of its execution. The deep oceanic blue sunburst dial surface is gently domed, creating a sense of visual depth as well as a touch of old-school visual distortion. The yellow gold used for the case is carried through here as well for the hands and indices, creating a warm, rich interplay with the cool gradients of the sunburst dial. In keeping with the brand’s pinpoint attention to detail, the date window is smoothly integrated at 3 o’clock with a dial-matching date wheel and a size that nicely blends it with the surrounding applied numerals at a glance.
Glashütte Original powers the new two-tone SeaQ with its in-house 39-11 automatic movement. Although hidden behind a solid caseback, the 39-11 is heavily decorated, with bright Glashütte striping across the bridges, a striped skeleton rotor with an integrated Glashütte Original emblem in yellow gold, and polished chamfers throughout. In classical German style, the 39-11 features a delicate and ornate swan-neck fine adjustment system atop the balance cock as well. Performance for the 39-11 is solidly middle of the road, with a power reserve of 40 hours at a 28,800 bph beat rate.
While many two-tone diver designs opt for a matching bracelet in steel and gold, the new Glashütte Original SeaQ keeps its gold use subtle and balanced by avoiding bracelets altogether. Instead, this new SeaQ can be purchased with either a classic black tropic-style rubber strap to emphasize the line’s ‘60s diver look or a fabric strap in dial matching navy blue.
By sidestepping the bold, ostentatious cues often associated with two-tone designs in the past, the new two-tone Glashütte Original SeaQ offers a fresh and modern take on this trend that integrates handsomely into its core diver look. The new two-tone Glashütte Original SeaQ